pH or nuteburn? Please help, first DWC grow

Clawing is the most common sign of too much nutes. Could be just a weak pheno that can't handle a healthy environment if ppm is that low.

Well, the pheno is not the strongest the bud is amazing, thus why I wanted to keep it. So this is was a recommendation from another gent on my other posting. thought u might find it interesting : DWC is extremely difficult technique to use to get good results when growing marijuana. I recommend using an antibiotic such as SM-90 to keep your roots healthy as well as an enzyme such as Hygrozyme or Cannazym. Temperature is key if your water gets above 75 degrees that's when your plants can risk growing pythiums SM-90 will help prevent this. I would also be using some air stones in each bucket to supply some dissolved oxygen into the water. It doesn't look like a Nitrogen burn to me because it's not effecting the entire plant. When your plant is suffering from a Nitrogen toxicity every single leaf from top to bottom will start to curl downward like some of yours are. It looks more like lock outs caused by too much Phosphorus. The mag-pro you are using and the bloom formula both have high amounts of Phosphorus. Too much Phosphorus can block Copper from being absorbed and Copper can distort upper younger leaves without any necrosis occurring. Perhaps switching from mag-pro to a Botanicare's sweet which would replace the magnesium and sulfur that the mag pro was giving you without adding any Phosphorous.

I get the same thing sometimes... right after 12/12 stretch. Using dyna grow in DWC and feeding what I think would be light - normal (420 - 600 ppm .5x) I use botanicare cal/mag and DG bloom. This is the worst one I have had... leafs are fairly dark green, maybe feeding a little hot but no signs of nute burn. I always get told too much N, but could be unbalanced ratio locking out micros like you said... maybe try mixing in grow next time and see if that makes it worse from more N or better from less P. I believe Homebrewer and his followers run a blend of DG grow/bloom in hydro 12/12: https://www.rollitup.org/nutrients/507899-dynagro-under-rated-fuck.html



People have been posting about ph dropping in flower recently, and I wonder if maybe too much P or not enough N in flower could be the cause of both issues. I really have no clue though; pretty much just a stoner taking stabs in the dark. Has your ph been stable with a slow upward drift?

Interesting Male, I have had the large pH swings going down, even though I think my nutes are right, my ppm will still drop( plant using the nutes), but my pH sometimes will swing from 6.3-6.4 all the way down to like 5.0 sometime in 24 hrs. I have alot of respect for Homebrewer and his methods, they have helped me fine tune my DG grows alot.
This is my first DWC flower grow, so I was not to sure how everything would work out. I gave my girls the same relative feeding schedule in soil, that I do in hydro, and it seems that the DWC can be more prone to over/under fert and or lock outs. Just my observational experience. That said, if I am going to continue to use DG, I think I will use their grow formula and a pinch of bloom next time around and see how it works out.

As far as my pH being stable, the only instance so far as been my girls in veg. I am using foliage pro ( was an experiment), but my pH in my veg res with my nutes, only will fall a couple of .1's in 24 hrs. If that, sometimes it is only .1 down or .1 up difference. So far, foliage pro has been great for my veg. Though, I do use it lightly, like maybe 1.5 mL per gallon, generally just 1.0 mL. I noticed you can overdo N quite easily with this product.
Thanks for your input man.
PS- my girls look the same, the flowers are still developing, but fan leaves look like they were beat senseless.