OK so what you all would do is..............

bittersweetkimberly

Active Member
throw these bunk ass seeds in the trash and get better seeds? I am not an experienced harvester, in fact I have only tried to grow once and the first week it got little white bugs, where in the hell did I go wrong there?
 
The first question you've got to ask is are the grasshoppers doing damage... or are they just sitting on your plants? Try these simple things; if they don?t work, then we start using poison and other less desirable methods...

Passive Repellants

If they are doing heavy damage to the leaves, try placing a few dead ones on your plants, hang them there in plain view. Smash up some fresh cloves of garlic and spread them around your plants. Try Moth balls (They seem to repel all kinds of critters).

Set up some stakes around the perimeter of your plants, and use a fine mesh around your plants. It will let in lots of light, air, rain, etc but keep the larger critters like grasshoppers out. Make sure you do not trap a bunch of them within the mesh when setting it up. This method completely ruins a stealth garden. In addition, you must remove the mesh when you water/feed your plants, and you will have to keep raising it higher as your plants grow taller.

You can try spraying with a homemade mixture. Mix water, crushed garlic, hot peppers, tobascco sauce, and other hot and/or repulsive ingredients into a big pot, bring to boil, stewing everything around. Let this mixture sit for a few days, stirring occasionally. Strain the liquid out into a spray bottle and spray your plants two or three times a week, and after rainfall. Try not to spray the bud sites later into the season. That should keep the buggers away; however the sweet liquid may attract ants, which are easier to kill off.

Chemical control

If the hoppers are persistent, you can add poison (like diaznol or similar) and spray the plants, but be very careful not to spray the bud sites! Some chemicals are 'puffed' onto your plants, however after morning dew or rain, the powder will get wet and run into your buds! As a result, the powder will remain as a wet clump and cause mold, ruining your entire crop. If your crop does survive, you are smoking poison.

Stoner133 has brought to my attention that the natural enemies of grasshoppers include beetles, birds, mice, snakes, and spiders.

brokenear suggests this recipe:
7 pints water
1 pint liquid Sevin % Dust
1 pint molasses
10 pints wheat germ

Mix all together to form a dough-like substance and roll into balls to place around your plants. You can even mold a string into the balls and hang them in your plants. Apparently the hoppers love it, to death! Bait provides yet another option for grasshopper control. Sevin insecticide can be impregnated on bran bait at a rate of 2% or 5% to provide good control, when properly timed.

Early treatment is the most effective and may be the most effective way to deal with localized grass hopper damage
 
Whiteflies: clouds of tiny white insects fly up from foliage when disturbed, plants look generally unhealthy. Controls: sticky yellow traps. Insecticidal soap. Most general purpose insecticides, including neem, nicotine pyrethrin, Malathion, sevin.

Contributed by: trstno1

five Tbsp hydrogen peroxide, a few drops of detergent in five or six cups of water. Misted it onto all surfaces of my plants liberally every other day. Gone in a week and a half to two weeks, no more eggs on leaves in three weeks and they haven't come back.

Safer brand yellow sticky traps just got covered with little white carcasses, but didn't control population.

Adult fungus gnats are tiny black flies which spend time running around on the surfaces and sucking sap from the leaves. After the adults lay their eggs on the soil (medium), the young worm-like larvae hatch out and begin to feed upon the roots. The larvae initially eat the fine root hairs before moving on to burrow throughout the larger roots and even up into the stems. After feasting on the roots the larvae will pupate before hatching out as adults and repeating the life cycle by laying their eggs. The larvae resemble little worms. They have clear or white bodies with black heads.

Life cycle: Adults live about 7 to 10 days and deposit eggs on the moist soil surface or in soil cracks. Females lay up to 100 to 300 eggs in batches of 2 to 30 each in decaying organic matter. Eggs hatch in 4 to 6 days; larvae feed for 12 to 14 days. The pupal stage is about 5 to 6 days.

Damage from the fungus gnat larvae feeding on the roots shows up in the leaves as overfertilization and nutrient deficiency symptoms: yellowing, browning, burning and curling leaves.

Three fungus gnat larvae biocontrol agents:

Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis (Bti) bacteria which can be purchased as mosquito dunks or gnatrol. Bti is the most appropriate anti gnat biological control agent for DWC systems.

Hypoaspis mites.

Steinernema feltiae nematodes.

Occasionally a dry layer of sand is recommended as a deterrent to fungus gnats. This technique should be discouraged as the close packing nature of the sand particles reduces the quantity of oxygen which penetrates down into the root zone.
 
Copper strips that extend an inch or more below and above the soil line will keep out slugs and snails. The copper band generates an electrical charge that is large enough to deter slugs.

Make sure you inspect perimeters daily, remove any leaves or branches over the copper band as snails and slugs will use this material for a bridge to cross the copper.

Please note copper bands have sharp edges, you can prevent accidents to children or pets by simply folding the visible edge with a pair of pliers.


If you have problems obtaining copper strips then try this method contributed by: Sterling

Take a few inches of copper wire out of an electrical flex. Twist this around your finger so it forms a coil of 2/3 turns.

Pull it apart slightly so the threads are overlapped and tangled to form a more complete barrier.

Place this around the bottom of the main stem leaving plenty of space for growth.


coppermo.gif
 
One of these should help. Not knowing what kind of bugs you have I tried to cover all the bases.

Spider mites are probally the most prevalent pest to inside growers. There are many ways to erradicate these critters but can be broken down into two types of methods. These methods are chemical or organic.

With any pest erradication program where you are depending on a chemical, be it organic or synthetic, it is best to cycle between three different pesticides for optimal results and to ensure the critters don't build an immunity to them.

Chemical

I've found that spraying with a pyrethium based spray to be very effective. Buying one that is combined with garlic would work as a repellent to these pests as well. The only problem with this is recently there have been shown to be pyrethium resistant mites. The treatment regime with this should be at least one spray a week, but no more than two. Don't think that more poison concentration will help remove them faster as it may only lead to your dissapointment as you see your plants suffer from burning. When spraying make sure that the underside of the leaves get just a much of a generous spraying as the tops.

If things have got right out of hand and nothing else seems to work you can count on flea bombs purchased from local supermarket. Be warned as they are full of dangerous poisons and the use of these should be greatly avoided within the last few weeks before harvest. The regime for these are one a week until problem solved, this is usually one week but occassionally you will need the second one. Make sure to turn off all exhaust fans for two hours from the time that the bomb is initially going off. After this two hour period is over turn back on exhaust fans and air out room thoroughly. Do this when the lights are out as a room full of fumes has a habit of exploding when a heat source or spark is present. These are so effective because the actually break into every part of the breeding cycle killing mites in all stages.

The recent success in mite eradication has come from the availability of a pesticide called Avid. Many growers swear that this is the only thing that really works without reinfestation. It is extremely important to kill them off completely and not start breeding resistant populations.

Organic

The most popular of the organic pesticides in recent times is neem oil or neem based products. These do work well in most cases. The treatment regime for these is no more than every three days and should be avoided in the last couple of weeks due to the fact that it can give the flowers a dirty flavour when consumed.

One completely chemical free way to eliminate mites is by manipulating the humidity in your grow room to above 80-90% for no more than three days. Any longer than this and you're asking for mold. This works because the mites absorb the extra moisture in the air and literally explode due to absorbtion of too much water.

Another manual way to go about things is to go in every day and give the plants a liberal spraying with plain water on both tops and bottoms of leaf sufaces. This physically knocks them of and disturbs there patterns as mites may not move for three days at a time. With this, as with the previous method, beware of mold.

With any treatment using chemicals be carefull to follow instructions and follow good safety procedure. It's not the best feeling to be stuck in bed for a day due to inhalation of chemical vapours.
 
Yes I'd get better seeds but you may want to practice with those....sounds like you have a lot of studying to do.
 
yeah, I know what you mean, I probably should use these for practice so I don't screw up on the really good weed. But how am I suppose to know if I am doing things properly if the weed isn't good to begin with?
 
BASIC INFORMATION
Compact fluorescents are close relatives of the 4ft tube fluorescents, commonly used in shops and schools for their white, soft light that does not cast any defined shadows. These lights are long tubes, usually 4ft long, filled with a gas that releases a photon of light when excited by electricity. The electricity is passed through the tube from the metal sections at either end, thus exciting the gas within and releasing photons of light. These lights must have a 'starter' which gets the light going initially, unlike incandescent which can just be turned on and off without one. Regular fluorescents usually emit 18w of light per tube, and cannot be plugged straight into a wall socket.

Compact fluorescents, on the other hand, are made for use in regular light sockets, and can easily be installed by anyone with basic handyman skills. Compact fluorescents are usually around 8inches long (not including the ballast, which usually adds about 3 inches to the total length) and emit minimal amounts of heat from the globe itself. Most of the heat emitted from a compact fluorescent comes from the ballast. These lights are usually between 8w and 27w, although some variation may occur between brands and uses.

The main reason people choose CF's over regular fluoro's is their compact ability! They are very 'movable' and can be positioned almost everywhere. They put out MUCH more light than their bigger cousins, while using only a fraction of the space.

Some of the many varieties of compact fluorescents.









Image contributed by: Locutus


NON-CULTIVATION USE OF COMPACT FLUORESCENTS

If you're running a large grow setup, and you're concerned about the spike in electricity, replace your regular light bulbs with compact fluoro’s around the house! They give off the same light, using only a fraction of the electricity. If you're running a HID light, and the electricity increase could kill you financially, or you're just worried about LEO, it might be a good idea to replace incandescent with compact fluoro’s. As an example, a 100w incandescent uses most of its energy giving off heat. If you replace all these 100w incandescent bulbs with ~20w energy saving compact fluoro's, you can dramatically reduce your energy bill, and help the environment at the same time. In fact, I recommend changing all your lights to CF's regardless of your growing situation, as they will save you $$ in the long-term, and save the environment.

The advantage with these lights is that the conversion from incandescent isn't complicated! Simply un-screw the old bulb, and screw in a compact fluoro! Done! You're on your way to energy saving paradise!


THE USE OF FLUORO'S FOR GROWING CANNABIS

Every grower has, or still uses these lights. Although they don’t even come close to the results from a HID light, they do however provide a cheap alternative for a newbie 'dabbling' in the fine art of growing. Instead of spending hundreds of dollars on an HID light, a newbie can purchase a compact fluorescent for a few bucks, and still have money for a coffee on the way home.

These lights are also excellent for starting seedlings and clones, as their cool light will not dry out the soil as fast as an HID. They have a low intensity, and are gentle on newly germinated seedlings, and are great for clones as they wont dry them out or give them too much of an early blast.

Compact fluoro's are also great for stealth grows, as they can be kept about 1 inch from the plants, and do not require extensive heat ventilation due to their warm operating temperature.


WHERE CAN I PURCHASE THESE LIGHTS?

Most lighting stores will sell them, but watch out, prices are very different depending on what type of shop you get them at! As lighting shops only sell lighting equipment, their prices can either be high or low, it really depends on the type of lighting shop it is. A designer lighting shop may end up being much more expensive, as they tend to be more directed towards the upper-class designer type customer, which extra $$ to spend. Hardware’s sell them, but their variety of lights is usually limited. Electricians, and assorted electrical shops will sell them, and this is most likely where you will get the best range and the best prices. My advice to you is, shop around! You wont regret it when you can save around 30% per light.


WHICH TYPE OF COMPACT FLUORESCENT LIGHT TO CHOOSE

For anyone growing cannabis, it is pointless to buy a weak light. Given the option of 8w, 15w and 27w, you would be stupid not to buy the 27watt, as they are more or less the same price. Compare the lumen output of each of the bulbs, different 27w bulbs may have different lumen outputs (depending on the manufacturer) and as with everything, the more lumens the better. You will also be given 2 options, the screw method of fitting, or the bayonet method (push and turn). My preference is the bayonet fitting. Make sure that you choose the right one for your socket! Also, do not choose a regular compact fluoro. Pick the one with the energy saving feature (will be explained why later on in the document). Now, for vegetative growth you should choose the 'cool white' light. This is also acceptable for flowering, but a 'warm white' light will be better as it is stronger in the red end of the light spectrum which is more suitable for flowering.


INSTALLING YOUR COMPACT FLUORESCENT

Now, this is extremely easy. As these bulbs fit normal light fixtures, you can just dismantle and old lamp to get the cord, plug and bulb fixture. This is ready made, as all you have to do is plug the cord into a wall outlet and screw in a bulb (with the power turned off, of course). This requires no electrical knowledge at all, and is the easiest way to get a cord suitable for a compact fluoro. The cord is simply removed from the lamp, and you are ready. If you feel you are not up to this task, or you do not have an old lamp ready to be destroyed, you can easily make one of these cords with basic electrical knowledge. Hardware’s and electricians will sell you the cable (you'll need at least 1 meter) and the fittings for the wall socket and the light. Just tell them you're making a lamp for pottery and need a few cables to make up yourself. The parts are cheap, and you can save $$$ this way. If you have any queries, the electrical store will know exactly what type of cables you need etc, and will be more than happy to give you instructions on how to put it all together.

Please note that this is a guide for regular compact fluoro's. There are some outdoor varieties (which are rare) that need to be fitted specially. This FAQ is written for the regular compact fluoro’s, the ones that are most accessible to the general population. Other varieties of compact fluoro's are hard to find, but may or may not be better for growing. As I have little experience with these rare lights, I cannot comment on them. The reason I haven't seen them before, is because they are almost non-existent where I live.
 
I feel that I am good at getting things to bud, and practice makes perfect. I am always willing to try new things. Got any suggestions?

Read, study, and re-read the neebie grow area; all the info you need is there, and the best part, is it is FREE! If you are an outdoor gardner, you'll absolutely love having indoor gardening as a hobby. Grow on!!
:mrgreen:
Nelson
 
Are you going to grow in soil? If so, buy good quality soil to start with (make sure it's not too strong for seedlings) and study around for lighting.....lighting can be inexpensive if you are creative.....your "cheap" seeds will grow just as happily and look the same as your $$$$ seeds...the only difference will be in the strength of the end product. It somehow feels better not watching your really "precious" stuff going down in flames.....speaking from experience! :)
 
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