Nutrient deficiency while flowering??

Hows everyone doing? Not too bad here. I am about 6 weeks into flowering and I have a couple of questions. After maybe the 3rd or 4th week into flowering I started seeing yellowing around the edges of the leaves. I initially just left it to see what would happen thinking maybe it would go away. It never really went away and kinda was getting worse. So these are current pictures of the leaves. My thinking is that it is nutrient deficiency because it started a couple weeks into flowering and I had not really ever seen this before. I know that I should have a ppm reader but I dont. I simply cannot afford one. I have been using botanicares pure blend line of products for the life of the plants. I had been using the liquid karma growth catalyst until the bottle ran out about a week or so into flowering. So since then I have not been using the liquid karma. Yesterday I did go out and buy more nutes tho and did pick up more liquid karma and was given a sample bag of some bud blaster powder. I have been following the directions on the back of the bloom nutes for how much I should be putting in per gallon. They are drinking so much water now which is why I think it may be deficiency. I have to put in 3 gallons about every other day. So every other day I put 3 new gallons of nutrient full water in the res. Is it possible that they just suck up all the nutes right away making about a day of not enough nutes before I put more water in? The reason I never really thought this was a problem before is because the buds look excellent. They are real crystally and just look healthy. Its just the leaves that kinda look like shit. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

I'd have to go with overnute... i see no redding/purpling leaf stems.

As things are ok, just feed plain pH'd water for the next couple of feeds, no nutes.

Could be a PH problem. Buy a cheap kit for pools, $5, and check the PH of your nutrient water. A lot of fertilizers, if not adjusted, can be in the 4-5 PH range.

I have been trying to maintain a pH of around 6 every time i water them. Skunk are you referring to flushing the res like you are supposed to do before you chop? How much longer do you think i have with these? Thanks a bunch

No, nothing that drastic... just feed plain pH'd water, as though there was nutes in it.

Alright I will try that out for a few days. Just curious what is this supposed to do? Will this just let me know if I was under/over feeding? And also how much longer do you think I have before these things are done? I really appreciate your prompt responses

It seems you have overnuted, this means there is more nutes in the medium than the plant can take in.

Depending on severity (yours seems low at present) you either feed plain pH'd feed 1, 2 or even 3 times or, worst case scenario, you need to flush.

Then there's recovery time etc.

I never flush, I rarely make mistakes these days, but when i did i found it was better to feed plain pH'd water rather than do a complete flush.

The plain feed will wash out a lot of the excess nutes and help break down or dissolve any large salt build-ups.

Alright cool I will feed with plain water for a while. Would I be right to say that when I start feeding again to start out slow? Really wish I had a ppm reader....

Yes, best to start slow to test the water, so to speak.

bmxpert1 said:

Alright cool I will feed with plain water for a while. Would I be right to say that when I start feeding again to start out slow? Really wish I had a ppm reader....

Click to expand...

with hydro - PPM and pH meters are really "must haves" - i know we all can't just run out and buy whatever we want - but do try to get one as soon as you can.

If you do not have a meter
then you should never add nutes between complete rez change out.

If you add nutes
you will always overnute
if you don't have meter to check.

.

.

i was told by my local hydro store to not ph the water when flushing.i did this with my first batch and it seemed fine.was i misinformed?

They have misinformed you - With flushing your trying to get the nutes and/or any chemicals out.
How can you flush a plant with out correct PH water?
You cannot, In hydro we all know the plant will NOT drink the water if it is not the correct PH.

So I would say yeah, that dude @ hydro store does'nt know squat.

You were smart to not listen to him.

You are not alone...I am have the exact same problem using the exact same nutes...I will be doing a res change tomorrow and run straight pHed water for a few days. I do have a meter and was running this one a bit high...1600 to 1700 ppm. Was doing fine all this time until now. Wondering if this is a calcium def cause by nute lock?

Limosnero said:

You are not alone...I am have the exact same problem using the exact same nutes...I will be doing a res change tomorrow and run straight pHed water for a few days. I do have a meter and was running this one a bit high...1600 to 1700 ppm. Was doing fine all this time until now. Wondering if this is a calcium def cause by nute lock?

Click to expand...

Yes this is way too high... during flower you want to raise the ppm's gradually until peaking at the mid-point of flower, which is dependent upon strain... after the mid-point of flower you gradually bring the ppm's back down again.

Advanced nutrients say, and I tend to agree with them, that a peak feed should never be above 2.0 ec, which is approximately 1400ppm.

wow tons of great info here. looks like i did a few things wrong on this grow...hope i still get some nice buddies from it though. thanks a bunch everyone i will hopefully have some better news in a few days

420 Growper said:

They have misinformed you - With flushing your trying to get the nutes and/or any chemicals out.
How can you flush a plant with out correct PH water?
You cannot, In hydro we all know the plant will NOT drink the water if it is not the correct PH.

So I would say yeah, that dude @ hydro store does'nt know squat.

You were smart to not listen to him.

Click to expand...

Sorry buddy, but this is untrue.

I have left two White Widows in RO water for two weeks,
never adjusted the pH,
and they were fine,
using the nutrients
they store in the leaves,
and roots.


Here is the best way to flush your plants.
Clearex


Clearex can also be used at the end of a crop's growth cycle
to trigger the last reproductive stage of the plant,
forcing it to process and assimilate endogenous nutrients.

Clearex contains specific electrolytes
and selected mono and disaccharides
which provide energy for the biosynthesis
of important plant metabolites and macromolecules.

Pre harvest treatments with Clearex
are known to enhance the flavor and increase yields in fruits,
vegetables, and culinary herbs
by flushing out extraneous chemical nutrients.

.

Earl said:

Sorry buddy, but this is untrue.

I have left two White Widows in RO water for two weeks,
never adjusted the pH,
and they were fine,
using the nutrients
they store in the leaves,
and roots.


Here is the best way to flush your plants.
Clearex

Clearex can also be used at the end of a crop's growth cycle
to trigger the last reproductive stage of the plant,
forcing it to process and assimilate endogenous nutrients.

Clearex contains specific electrolytes
and selected mono and disaccharides
which provide energy for the biosynthesis
of important plant metabolites and macromolecules.

Pre harvest treatments with Clearex
are known to enhance the flavor and increase yields in fruits,
vegetables, and culinary herbs
by flushing out extraneous chemical nutrients.

.

Click to expand...

Do you adjust pH when using Clearex?

email468 said:

Do you adjust pH when using Clearex?

Click to expand...

NO.
Just Clearex and RO

.

I use a product called final phase... the only time I flush is right at the end.

These products work by diluting the nutrients already in the medium, it takes a couple of goes but is quicker than just using water.

Plain water will flush your plants... the only reason I recommend using pH water is because I never like to advise people to do a full flush (only in extreme cases) so with a plain pH feed this will make locked-out nutrients become available to the plant. This works well in the majority of pH problems where a nute lock-out has occurred and the plant is sufferring from deficiencies.