New growth clawing

H

Holovic

Member
So I have been in 12/12 for 15 days. My new growth around the buds is starting to claw.
IMG_20120806_221306.jpgIMG_20120806_221253.jpg

The last time I watered it could have been a bit early as the soil was slightly moist still but is there anything else that causes this? I use GH flora nova series with 2teaspoons per gallon of grow, bloom, and micro for my last watering. I figure I should probably stop the grow nutrients because of Nitrogen toxicity.

Would flushing help correct this? I've seen grows go full term with clawing but I'm sure my results will be better if I can correct it.

Here are some pictures from a few days ago:

8/1
IMG_20120801_222605.jpg

8/3
IMG_20120803_232042.jpg

So you can see it's getting worse.
 
You're gonna want to give it nothing but water for at least the next 3 "feedings".

EDIT: I wouldn't flush. Just don't give it nutes for a little while. Till it stops really.
 
Great. Thanks for the quick solution. It's my first grow and I was under the assumption that excessive nutrients showed in burned tips. (which I have on my smaller plant) I will stick with plain water for 3 more feedings and then only use my micro nutrients and bloom nutrients.

I was worried it was a pH issue when I stick to a very strict 6.5 to 6.8.
 
if he has enough nutes to claw it it needs flushed out. there will still be a lot of nutes in the soil and the plant needs a break.
 
For night temps they sit in a room cooled to 73F. My low temperature recorded by my thermometer says 68F but I will check it again tonight when the lights come on. I was going to flush anyways.

To flush with tap water which pHs at 8.1 can I just run a few gallons through and then do my final watering after the flush with my pHed water @ 6.8? Or do I need to go buy distilled and use that to flush?
 
Do u always use the water you mentioned with a ph of 8.1?? I would think the soil would be very close to that if u checked it out. I agree with everyone else definetly flush but flush well with a balanced ph of 6.5 give or take, and keep that same ph or close for the rest of the grow as well, in a few weeks maybe sooner the soil should be more balenced. Girls look good btw keep up the good work!
 
One more thing, when u flush watch the humidity in your flower room it might jump. I believe once you flush and maintain using water with a ph of 6.5 to 7 your root system will be able to start being able to pick up p,k and other essential nutes used up during flowering that might be locked out with a soil ph and water ph that's that high
 
ph of my feeding water is always between 6.5 and 7. My concern was pHing 3 gallons of water for flushing rather then just using the tap for the flush and finishing off with my PHed water with perhaps a teaspoon of H2O2 to help with Oxygenation on the roots.

And thank you. I'm learning a lot :-)
 
Flushed last night. Put about 3 gallons through of tap water from the faucet. Finished with a half gallon of pHed water at a 6.7. The run off from my soil at the end was still 5.7 so I can imagine I flushed some pretty serious crap out of there. Runoff started kind of reddish brown and finished a light brown/clear.
 
ahhhh. claw. here's the thing i learned about it from personal experience....you can get it by giving your plants too much N. sometimes you get it despite what you feed it. i only grew organically. and my plants lived almost entirely on what was in the soil mix from the start. i cut out the blood meal and saw less clawing. but i still saw it on about 1% of plants i grew. so i figured that it might be partially genetic. i also NEVER saw it on outdoor grows. idky.
i also saw that plants that claw don't recover. they don't unclaw. it does effect trichomb production and plants that claw won't produce normal buds. they finish later. they had to be cured longer. and they didn't smoke nearly as well as plants that didn't claw. so mostly when i saw the symptom i culled those plants from the rest. just chalked it up to attrition. which you have to account for in a grow. you can however grow the plant and kief it out, meaning you cut up the buds, dried them and sifted them through a nylon screen seperating the trichomes from the plant and just harvesting the kief. that can be smoked and it's just as good. you can make kief hash out of it too.
 
Hopefully I can get something smokeable from this since it is my first grow and I plan on starting a second one as soon as this one finishes. I for sure gave it grow 5-2-1 nutrients for too long which would explain the nitrogen toxicity. Lights come on at 10pm so I'll see then if there has been any improvement since the flush went to dark photoperiod.

Thanks for the input dannyboy. My next grow I'll have a 2x4 tent and a 400w HPS so I will have more room to work with.
 
I am having a smiler problem, here some interesting stuff I found today:
First the quick rules:

  1. Young leaves curling; the humidity in your grow room is probably too high; open the door!
  2. Old Leaves curling: something is probably wrong in the root zone. Often it could be a bit of root rot. You can minimize the risk of root rot by stopping the watering 2-4 hours before switching the light off. The stonewool should only be 50-60% wet over-night.
  3. Sometimes your general humidity is just fine, but your plants are so bushy that there is not a good air movement between the branches. Use fans. As an example, I can see that my cherry tomatoes are most happy in 15 mph "fan-winds".
More technical detailed explanation to curling leaves
If the youngest leaves are curled downwards, it more than likely indicates a calcium deficiency. If old leaves are curled; something is probably wrong in the root zone (which also reduces the calcium uptake).
Calcium deficiency is the result of insufficient water movement through the plant. Remember, calcium only travels in the water stream of the plant, not in the nutrient stream. Therefore, calcium deficiency is usually (90% of the time) related to the climate in the growing area. High humidity will prevent calcium uptake even if there is sufficient Ca in the feed solution. Also, large day/night fluctuations in humidity will disrupt the Ca flow within the plant and lead to blossom-end rot (BER).
Another cause of BER or obvious Ca deficiency in the leaves is poor root development. This is a result of low substrate temperatures or the presence of a root pathogen such as Pythium or Phytophthora. Calcium is taken up by the area of the root immediately behind the root-tip. If the roots are not actively growing, new root tips will not be formed and consequently, Ca uptake will be reduced.
 
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