Need a diagnosis

The spots were white before but are now turning a rustish color. It has progressed this far in about 3 days. Sorry the pics arent that great but its all I could get. The plant was just transplanted like 5 days ago info FF ocean forest and it has been looking healthy up until this point. Its now got some rust appearing all over the leaves not just the edges and its curling down bad.
Watered with distilled water which I would have assumed is a PH of about 6.5 and its the same stuff I have always been using. I dont know what is wrong with her

Anyone know the PH of FF ocean forest? Only thing I can think is its so far from 6.5 and its locking out mg or soemthing.

Btw the one pic looks like it could be possibly mites or something but its definitely not a bug.
Also using some big blossom nutes 10-60-10 and they are now 3 weeks into flowering. Strain is unkown.

Too much nitrogen it looks like. whats your PH on your run off? PPM readings?

EDIT: shit i just read your full post.. You replanted in ocean forest while flowering, it is definitely toxic salt build up with too much nitrogen, flush lots and lots friend

Shrubs First said:

Too much nitrogen it looks like. whats your PH on your run off? PPM readings?

EDIT: shit i just read your full post.. You replanted in ocean forest while flowering, it is definitely toxic salt build up with too much nitrogen, flush lots and lots friend

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Hey could you possibly go into more detail? Is the FF known for this? Did it happen because of the soil?

Also is there anything other then flushing I can do to help?

Kookiemonsta said:

Hey could you possibly go into more detail? Is the FF known for this? Did it happen because of the soil?

Also is there anything other then flushing I can do to help?

Click to expand...

More detail? Well PH Tells you what the alkaline or acidity is in the soil, PPM tells you how many Total Dissolved Solvents or Salts (TDS) there are in your soil in Parts Per Million (PPM). I don't use foxfarm, or any other pre fertilized soil simply because you don't know exactly how much of what is IN the soil, so you can get nutrient lock up with out even feeding! Also, no.... you need to flush, make sure atleast a gallon of water runs off.

Kookiemonsta said:

Hey could you possibly go into more detail? Is the FF known for this? Did it happen because of the soil?

Also is there anything other then flushing I can do to help?

Click to expand...

i beleive u got a ph prob
the pics help...ur other thread didnt have any
get ur ph in check and most likely u will be fine
u should flush every now and then to rid of salts in ur soil
ur ph will drop when using fertilizer
its not a N prob

moash said:

i beleive u got a ph prob
the pics help...ur other thread didnt have any
get ur ph in check and most likely u will be fine
u should flush every now and then to rid of salts in ur soil
ur ph will drop when using fertilizer
its not a N prob

Click to expand...

Hey, good to have ya along in this thread since you read the other =P
I figured I would make a diff thread because the symptoms changed so much from the white spots to the rust.

I am kind of warry though of the salt thing, I do believe that may be the problem. It is my first try at this and I have never heard of the salt building up when ferting so I had never ever flushed.... Also me being dumb couldnt figure out how to PH test the soil but I found out its at 6.8 default and my water is 6.5 but I never have tested after adding ferts. So yeah once I make my next visit I will flush with a gallon at least and I will also get a PH of the runoff.

Thanks for all the help guys, I will update once I test these couple options

hope this helps....also check if ur rootbound
How to test the pH of your soil mix

Measuring the pH of soil is just as important as with hydro applications, but few people know how to test soil pH to see if it is within the optimum range for growing robust healthy plants. Here I will try to explain my method of testing any soil / soilless mix, enabling me to spot any problems and correct them if necessary.

Firstly, wait till your soil has dried out and is due for its next watering schedule. Then take some plain water that you usually water your garden with, and adjust the pH to 7.0. You must make sure that you know the exact pH of the water going into your soil, and the neutral 7.0 is best, but anywhere from 6.5 – 7.0 will suffice.

Then place your pot into a bowl of some sort to catch the runoff water, and then start to water your soil slowly (with your pH- corrected plain water) till the water starts to drip from the bottom.
It’s the first drops of water that will give you the best reading of your soil, so make sure to water slowly till you see the first droplets. Then remove the pot from the bowl to eliminate excess water entering the bowl. Then perform the pH test on the runoff and compare it too your initial test.
The results of the runoff test will likely be lower than your starting value of 7.0. If this is the case, a small drop of 0.5 pH to 6.5 pH (example) would be ok and your soil needs no further alterations at the moment. But that’s not to say that it won’t need any future tests at all, just not at this time.

[Editor’s note: It may be beneficial to obtain an initial sample, as well as a ‘full flush’ sample in seperate bowls. In addition, test several plants in the garden just to verify your results]

What if the pH is off?
If your results prove to have dropped considerably, say to around 5.5 (which can happen in late stages of flowering), you will need to add some lime into your soil to help buffer the pH back up again.

Remove the first inch or so of soil, taking care not to damage any roots whilst performing this task. Then sprinkle the lime into the pot, nice and evenly at a rate of 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of lime per gallon of soil. Then replace the soil you removed earlier, and saturate the soil good to wash in the lime.

Do the same test next time your plants need watering just to check that everything is fine, if more lime needs to be added then just repeat the process again till you reach close to 6.5 – 7.0 with the runoff.

Ensuring that your pH is correct should be done throughout the life cycle; this will help eliminate any nutrient lockout that may occur. I recommend doing this once a month just to keep the PH in check, and you should never have a problem with deficiencies caused by pH lockout.

Wish me luck!
Got some neem oil today to finally take finish off like the last 4 spider mites I have on one of my plants =P

Also flushed this girl in hopes that she will start looking better in the somewhat near future
I did PH the water and its at 7.0, with ferts its at about 6.0 and the runoff is about 6.4-6.8 so yeah... PH is pretty durn good =P (to my surprise that is!)
It must have been a salt buildup or something O.O Something to note though is the spots seem to have stopped spreading (cross finger) but on the bad note is one of the lower leaves and ONLY this leave has two white segments about 1 inch long along the main vein of the fan leaf. wtf?? it looks like it should rub off like salt or something but it def is something going on with the leaf.