my new diy grow light

it was fairly inexpensive. slightly more that your average 600w equivalent china board. it cost around 230-250.

ill post a couple shots now. i may post the whole build, but it is much easier to link you to the build i scaled from. im actually considering adding another single cob so i can have a broader spectrum. but it should be good for now.

currently it has 2 3000k and 1 5000k CXA3070 lights.

The Battlestar Ganjatica. i basically copied this build and scaled it for a 2X4 tent.



i have it stacked with the viparspectra in veg to add a wider light spectrum. its probably unnecessary, but i cant think of a reason not to.

a couple shots show how its wired. if you have questions, ill gladly answer. the fans were slightly difficult, but that's because the molex pins kept popping out so i had to plug them together and bypass the molex. yes, everything is grounded. this is a must IMO.

nice build

how many watts is it?

probably don't need the vipar. the cobs are blocking most of it.

roughly 170-180 watts. it uses 3 58.8w drivers. i want to test it when i can borrow a multimeter.

the cobs are blocking 10-20% at most.

EDIT: ok, more like 40-50% i took some shots of it from the plants perspective.

Very nice , what strains you growing?

a sour diesel mix in the center and 2 free skunk #1 from seedsman on each side.

the sour diesel mix i have had in my possession for close to 10 years. it is either mixed with white widow or northern lights. i got them from a breeder friend of mine after i tried it. it may have been the strongest smoke i have ever had. not feminized though.

i tossed the skunk in just to have something cheap to learn with. i have better seeds but im saving them for when i trust my technique.


EDIT: at this point im still experimenting and improving my peripherals.

NapalmZen said:

it was fairly inexpensive. slightly more that your average 600w equivalent china board. it cost around 230-250.

ill post a couple shots now. i may post the whole build, but it is much easier to link you to the build i scaled from. im actually considering adding another single cob so i can have a broader spectrum. but it should be good for now.

currently it has 2 3000k and 1 5000k CXA3070 lights.

The Battlestar Ganjatica. i basically copied this build and scaled it for a 2X4 tent.

View attachment 3870134 View attachment 3870135 View attachment 3870138 View attachment 3870139 View attachment 3870140 View attachment 3870141

i have it stacked with the viparspectra in veg to add a wider light spectrum. its probably unnecessary, but i cant think of a reason not to.

a couple shots show how its wired. if you have questions, ill gladly answer. the fans were slightly difficult, but that's because the molex pins kept popping out so i had to plug them together and bypass the molex. yes, everything is grounded. this is a must IMO.

Click to expand...

Nice unit. Lose the Vipar, put it in another tent where it will do some good.

I bet you learned your lesson with running them too close to plants that aren't ready for it!

Definitely top your plants and train them with the goal of create an even, flat canopy that has the most biomass at the proper distance from those lights. SCRoG is your friend. 1.5 grams per watt is a very realistic number once you have the technique.

ttystikk said:

Nice unit. Lose the Vipar, put it in another tent where it will do some good.

I bet you learned your lesson with running them too close to plants that aren't ready for it!

Definitely top your plants and train them with the goal of create an even, flat canopy that has the most biomass at the proper distance from those lights. SCRoG is your friend. 1.5 grams per watt is a very realistic number once you have the technique.

Click to expand...

Agreed 100%. I'm actually considering clearing the hall closet and placing the center plant in it with a scrog screen and using the viparspectra. Then doing the same with the other two in the grow tent.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/napalmz-first-dwc-grow.930548/

my problem is that i am also growing indoor vegetables and some small auto flowers. just a couple clones from a single lowrider #2 i keep small for entertainment. that i plan on putting in the closet. ill see what happens as i just started my first flower.

EDIT: i think ill just buy another 2X4 grow tent. it should all fit. but i really want a 5X5 so i can start a large scrog. i just dont have the cash for the lights.

NapalmZen said:

Agreed 100%. I'm actually considering clearing the hall closet and placing the center plant in it with a scrog screen and using the viparspectra. Then doing the same with the other two in the grow tent.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/napalmz-first-dwc-grow.930548/

my problem is that i am also growing indoor vegetables and some small auto flowers. just a couple clones from a single lowrider #2 i keep small for entertainment. that i plan on putting in the closet. ill see what happens as i just started my first flower.

EDIT: i think ill just buy another 2X4 grow tent. it should all fit. but i really want a 5X5 so i can start a large scrog. i just dont have the cash for the lights.

Click to expand...

Get the 5x5, then throw whatever you can afford now in there, even shoplights. It's not going to hurt anything to only light half the tent at first.

good point. i considered doing it and moving my current setup in there and dismantling my 2X4. i still dont know what to do. i guess its time to invest in bigger tent.

i have the vivosun 2X4 and for the price of the 5X5 im curious if there is something better that is equally affordable. i have heard the gorilla tents are great, but i LOVE my vivosun 2X4

i just realized, its not the 5X5 i want, its the vivosun 4X8. simply because i could drop Mylar dividers to separate veg from flower. to be honest, i still havent decided. but rule of thumb states "bigger is better". advice tty?

NapalmZen said:

good point. i considered doing it and moving my current setup in there and dismantling my 2X4. i still dont know what to do. i guess its time to invest in bigger tent.

i have the vivosun 2X4 and for the price of the 5X5 im curious if there is something better that is equally affordable. i have heard the gorilla tents are great, but i LOVE my vivosun 2X4

i just realized, its not the 5X5 i want, its the vivosun 4X8. simply because i could drop Mylar dividers to separate veg from flower. to be honest, i still havent decided. but rule of thumb states "bigger is better". advice tty?

Click to expand...

Can you build 2x4s and fram out your area? It's super simple and you can make it perfect for your needs. Wall it out with the insulation boards and you'll be set.

BM9AGS said:

Can you build 2x4s and fram out your area? It's super simple and you can make it perfect for your needs. Wall it out with the insulation boards and you'll be set.

Click to expand...

Pictures of said build?

NapalmZen said:

Pictures of said build?

Click to expand...

https://www.rollitup.org/t/3-clw-solarsystem-550-and-4-timber-cxb-3590-diy-kits.919164/

Cant really see much. But walled out with 2x4s and panda film. Grow before that used the 1/2" silver sided insulation board you buy at Home Depot for cheap.

Lemme see if I can pull a pic....

Here ya go. It's current. The insulation board is awesome.

NapalmZen said:

it was fairly inexpensive. slightly more that your average 600w equivalent china board. it cost around 230-250.

ill post a couple shots now. i may post the whole build, but it is much easier to link you to the build i scaled from. im actually considering adding another single cob so i can have a broader spectrum. but it should be good for now.

currently it has 2 3000k and 1 5000k CXA3070 lights.

The Battlestar Ganjatica. i basically copied this build and scaled it for a 2X4 tent.

View attachment 3870134 View attachment 3870135 View attachment 3870138 View attachment 3870139 View attachment 3870140 View attachment 3870141

i have it stacked with the viparspectra in veg to add a wider light spectrum. its probably unnecessary, but i cant think of a reason not to.

a couple shots show how its wired. if you have questions, ill gladly answer. the fans were slightly difficult, but that's because the molex pins kept popping out so i had to plug them together and bypass the molex. yes, everything is grounded. this is a must IMO.

Click to expand...

How did you go about grounding your light bro? Just pig-tailed a ground cord to the structure or is there another way? Just learning and I'm trying to get everything down

DarthPlagueis said:

How did you go about grounding your light bro? Just pig-tailed a ground cord to the structure or is there another way? Just learning and I'm trying to get everything down

Click to expand...

just make sure everything metal that is not connected to the circuit has a ground going to it.

EDIT: my entire setup is aluminum. everything from the heatsinks to the frame. it is all screwed together too. this means i only need one ground going to the frame. it's simple and easy.

NapalmZen said:

View attachment 3881855

just make sure everything metal that is not connected to the circuit has a ground going to it.

EDIT: my entire setup is aluminum. everything from the heatsinks to the frame. it is all screwed together too. this means i only need one ground going to the frame. it's simple and easy.

Click to expand...

Thanks for replying( haha even on another post of mine! appreciate it brother), so you wago the positives, the negatives, and grounds into separate wago clips. So at this point, you have 2 wires in each wago clip, one wire from the driver, and one wire from the AC plug. Now I drill a hole into the structure and insert a bolt. I then insert another wire into the ground wago connector and attach a circle wire connector to the other end of the wire. Now I can use the circle connector to attach to the screw and bolt it down. This is now a grounded electronic

Does this sound right?

I looked this up earlier and I found this article
https://www.rollitup.org/t/did-you-ground-your-diy-cob-frame-is-it-necessary-how-do-you-do-this-anyway.926801/

Freemanjack says it's more dangerous, but IDK how credible any of it is, I'm new here and new to DIY builds.

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Do you use a 10A fuse? I've been looking for a thread on that but can't find one

soldering the cobs is not only difficult but pretty nerve racking too, hats off for you doing it. Try shortening the striped exposed wire end as much as possible as it could arc or fault on the heatsink. Looked like you had some epoxy/insulator under it, I put a dab right on the conection.

Peace out, just another jackass with an riu account.

DarthPlagueis said:

Thanks for replying( haha even on another post of mine! appreciate it brother), so you wago the positives, the negatives, and grounds into separate wago clips. So at this point, you have 2 wires in each wago clip, one wire from the driver, and one wire from the AC plug. Now I drill a hole into the structure and insert a bolt. I then insert another wire into the ground wago connector and attach a circle wire connector to the other end of the wire. Now I can use the circle connector to attach to the screw and bolt it down. This is now a grounded electronic

Does this sound right?

I looked this up earlier and I found this article
https://www.rollitup.org/t/did-you-ground-your-diy-cob-frame-is-it-necessary-how-do-you-do-this-anyway.926801/

Freemanjack says it's more dangerous, but IDK how credible any of it is, I'm new here and new to DIY builds.

------------------------------------------------------

Do you use a 10A fuse? I've been looking for a thread on that but can't find one

Click to expand...

woah, first off what is a wago? im thinking you mean wire nuts? yes.
i use wire nuts and push in connectors.
ill be honest, i dont understand the question. ok, i reread the question 3 times, i get it now.
as far as wiring, ill post a couple pics. it's stupid simple.

why would i use fuses? everything is grounded and ran through a GFCI. if your outlet has a ground, install a GFCI. it will solve many potential issues. as someone who has been doing electrical for over a decade (hobby, auto, and work) there is not a need for a fuse imho.




edit:
ACN- alternating current neutral. this is the outgoing end of the power.
ACL- alternating current line. this is incoming or the smaller prong on a cord.

i just twist the ground around the screw in the direction it will twist to be tightened. no special washer or connector. this is how we did it in the field and i see no reason to add more steps.

SSGrower said:

soldering the cobs is not only difficult but pretty nerve racking too, hats off for you doing it. Try shortening the striped exposed wire end as much as possible as it could arc or fault on the heatsink. Looked like you had some epoxy/insulator under it, I put a dab right on the conection.

Peace out, just another jackass with an riu account.

Click to expand...

cheap and easy. i purchased this for the build as my "pen" 60w died while soldering the first cob in place. heat the wire and feed it solder. get a glob built on it. clean what you intend to solder it to with 99% alcohol and place the soldered wire on it. touch the solder with the gun and once it turns liquid and flows remove the iron. done. took <10 minutes to do 3 COBs.

this is the thermal epoxy i used.

on my first one, i didnt like the fact that the corners weren't filled out so on the other two i used almost double the epoxy.

the others look like this. there was so much extra epoxy from me pressing it down(by the corners) that i trimmed it with a sharp knife and gently worked it away from the COB.

next time i plan on doing it much differently, though it will be the same basic principal. i may try to do sets of 2 on each heat sink with one driver per pair(different spectrums)

i used to replace lighting for a living. there was not an option for disconnecting power or turning off a light switch most of the time. i was basically forced to do most of my work live. do that for 3 years, and you will lose all fear of getting electrocuted. i cant tell you how many hundreds of ballasts i replaced or lighting upgrades(t12 to t8 ) i have done over the years. more than 50% live.

did all my work bare handed to. would get zapped from time to time. usually it just felt like a buzzing or mild vibration in my hand or sometimes other places depending on how i was leaning and what footwear i had on. hell, i reached out and tagged my boss once. scared the shit out of him.

i also owned several 90's hondas. that is where i learned to solder. i replaced half the electrical on a 93 civic(obd1) with a b18c obd2. damn thing had so many problems i ripped most of it out and rewired it.