Leathery textured, yellow-green, newish leaves

miz.khalifa

Active Member
They're Barney's farm LSD, about a month old. I fed them Cana for Coco A+B yesterday morning then put them outside for the day, we feed at 2/3 the recommended amount on the package (10mL/gallon tap water). We feed them a final solution w a pH of about 5.8-6.0. At night we have them under a 600watt MH light. 24/0 for the most part. Anyway, our plants have begun to exhibit a strange... Texture and color as of this afternoon. The temp outside is fucking 106, but they don't appear heat stressed (to me?) as there's no drooping, etc.

Any takers?

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You might want to bump up the food. They are getting to the point now where they ned full strength nutrients. COCO is demanding as far as food goes. It Hydro basically. Just in a solid medium.

If you just fed them give them fresh water next. But DONT soak the soil. If there is something wrong you dont want to choke out air from the roots. Instead try to catch enough runoff water that comes out of the bottom of the pot and PH that. should give you a reading of your cocos PH..... Just because you PH your water before feeding dosent mean it stays that PH in the medium. Especaially if they are goin outside in 100+ degree heat. Heat can change the PH.

But more than likely they just need some more food(N).

Hope you get your plants back right
:weed:
 
Ok so I'm a retard and it's the Royal Bluematic that's acting a fool.

Also, the Auto AK is apparently flowering. WTF LOL...
 
when plants need N the bottom leaves yellow not the top

that's what i understand as well.

it just seems very strange the leaves would change SO much not just in color but also texture. it's almost waxy and the leaves feel thicker than the less yellow or whatever parts. i also moved the ballast down a bit a couple days ago so perhaps the 106 temps + lowered lights could be contributing? but it doesn't appear to be showing signs of heat stress...

anyway here's a line up of our bitches:
1. Royal Bluematic. more like Peasant Yellow-greenmatic, amirite?
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2. LSD
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LSD.
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4. Auto AK, which as you may be able to see, has very recently decided being exactly 20 fucking days old is mature enough to flower. COOL
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it may have been the light and heat, the new growth shouldn't be effected from here, if you fix the lights sounds like you have them too close

...if it is then you know you got a problem
 
do you know your runoff pH i think it may be Mg cause

Hey everyone, this has been one of the most informative threads i've found on canna coco. I just finished reading this whole thread and took tons of notes. I'm going to post them here just for consolidation purposes (and for the lazy ones who dont want to read 102 pages :P), and to see if anyone else has anything they would like to add.

I do have a couple questions of my own that i didn't find here.

-Can cannaboost and rhizotonic be mixed together and used as a foliar spray? if so, how much of each is recommended?
-Can the seeds be started in peat pellets, then transferred to my 1 gallon pots with 100% canna coco from there? Or is a different starter cube recommend instead of peat pellets, such as rapid rooters or root riots?




Canna Notes (Updated March 1 2011):

Rhizotonic: - Develops roots and can be used as foliar spray after transplanting or to reduce stress. Use the Rhizotonic at the high end of the spectrum (10ml-15ml per gallon) during the early stages of veg. Once the root system is big and established and you are in your final size container, then you can drop the dose down a bit, and once you are a week or 2 into 12/12, then u can drop it down to 2ml per gallon until about week 5 or six. For foliar feeding (until flowering starts), mix the Rhizotonic at 2ml per gallon. Spray it right when the lights come on, while the room and plant temps are still low, and so the leaves have time to dry before dark. Use it 3x per week, or every other day.

Cannaboost: - Kind of useless, but good as foliar spray. Use it at the low rate, 8 ml/gal applied every other day. It has little EC and will not affect the plant to much. Also, only adjust the pH if it is way out of bounds but if between 5.2 and 7.9 don't worry about it. Apply from the point of photoperiod change (12/12) to about 1 week prior to harvest if possible.

Cannazym: - Stimulates bio life - rinse coco with double dose cannazym after harvesting to use the coco up to 3 times. let it soak for a day, then replant. it decomposes old roots and stuff, then turns it into nutrients

PK 13/14: - Tends to be best used in a 7 - 10 day window starting about the time you see first flower formation. This typically, on an 8 week flower response group, to be about 5 weeks before harvest or 2-3 weeks after flower initiation (not light change). Adding it early will not advance or benefit flower initiation, only the amount of dark the plant sees will initiation flowering. Adding too early could result in phosphate accumulation and ratio issues involving Ca and Mg. If using A/B at full strength, cut it back a little as you introduce the PK. The best way to dial in the PK takes some trial and error work. This can be anything from 3 - 10 days after switching light cycle or the natural trigger for flower is received by the plant. Remember a plant has to convert to flower in most cases which takes a little time from the moment the dark cycle increases or decreases based on the species of plant being grown. Use PK for about a 3 week window at each irrigation along with the other components. Then you can stop. You really can not use PK too long except in the final week or so, or giving it too early. You want to use it when the buds are forming and just starting to kind of wrap around the branch (right before they start linking together)

Nutrient schedule for seedlings: - 1ml a+b and 1 mil rhizo - go a bit higher with every watering till you get to the normal chart level. PH to 5.2-6.2 (5.8 is a safe spot). Stay somewhere around 400 - 600 ppm or about 0.6 EC for the nutrients on seedlings or really new cuttings. After a couple weeks switch to the lower range of the feed chart. Leave the Rhizotonic out of the seedlings untill they are about 2 weeks old or older. Cuttings should see Rhizotonic as soon as root initials are seen. Seedlings loose the seedling criteria after they gain some size say 4 or 5 sets of true leaves, depending on variety. Canna nutrient chart: http://www.cannagardening.com/growguide

Nutrient schedule for clones: - Start with 8ml (each A/B bottle) per gallon and if there is no sight of burn, quickly move up to 10-12 ml per gallon. PH to 5.2-6.2 (5.8 is a safe spot). Use solution within 4 days.

Nutrient Mix Order: - Cal/Mag (if using), then Rhizotonic, then A/B etc.. - let sit for a couple hours or overnight if possible. Then adjust PH to 5.2-6.2 (5.8 is a good middle) and use it. Always add anything with Calcium first. Probably no need for cal mag until flowering if using non RO (city) water. If you use any product with silica in it then it should be added to your feed water before adding other nutes or you'll get nutrient lockout/dropout in the mix.

Watering: - Never use just plain water with coco. Use the A/B with EVERY watering except during the final flush. During the flush, just use Cannazym. If you want to reuse the coco (up to 3 times), then use a double dose of Cannazym during the flush. After plant removal, soak coco in double dose rhizotonic once more and let it soak for 24 hours, then it's ready to re-use. Re-using canna coco is good because the micro life gets built up from the previous grow.

PH: - Stay between 5.2 and 6.2. 5.8 is a good safe spot

Magnesium deficiencies: - Show as yellowing in-between the veins on the leaf and sometimes rust spots
Calcium deficiencies: - Show as brown edges on the sides of the leaves, and eventually twist and curl up and die. Calcium is important for cell density. A steady supply will increase yields.
 
um also here is from that thread as well

Test PPM and pH before adding anything.

My procedure:
1. test pH and PPM(water), record.
2. add CaMg+, test PPM, increase does as needed to achieve 100-140ppm, record PPM.
3. add DripClean
4. add other additives (Rhizotonic, Cannazym, Boost, PK13/14, etc, as needed)
5. split nutrient solution in half.
6. add A to one half, add B to the other half.
7. wait 15 minutes.
8. combine both halves into one, test pH and PPM. The addition of A and B are portioned for the full quantity, not the half.
9. pH balance as needed, record pH and PPM.
10. feed plants, you should see 10-20% runoff(in Coco)

The way I understand it, when A and B are not to be mixed directly, they should be diluted into the solution. I've seen/read issues with people not giving the wait time for A and B, and end up with absorption issues.
 
that's kinda what we do (the second post, haven't read the first quoted post yet- also haven't taken my adderall today so we'll see if i can manage it LOL).

-mix 0.5tsp of A with 64oz tap water in a jug > put solution in a bucket
-rinse jug well, no soap or anything
-mix 0.5tsp of B with 64oz tap water in same jug
-put B into the bucket with A > mix/stir
-pH the solution until it's between 5.5 and 6 using lemon juice, as our water tends to have a pH of around 7.5+
-let it sit for a few min outside to let the temp adjust slightly, then mix it again and measure 32oz per plant (watered four today)
 
View attachment 2719839run off from earlier. i fed with half strength nutes like 3-4 hours ago.

I have yet to try your line of nuts but the pH of your run off looks 5 is it always so low?

here is a gradient chart
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in our experience, yes. we don't often measure run off, i think we've done it a handful of times, but i do recall it being more or less that color/pH. i'm not sure what we can do to change pH of the run off, and not to be a douche (lol, isn't this always followed by a douche comment) but i'm not sure that's gonna fix the problem of the leathery weird waxy leaves. haha

ETA: i feel it won't fix much for two reasons...
1) it's always been about the same or at least similar at a very basic (NOT LITERALLY, LOL SEE WHAT I DID THERE) level and
2) we didn't change much, if anything, with regard to food/water

also again, sorry if this comes off as douche-y, i certainly don't intend to be!!
 
umm i only ask cause it looks like Mg def and low pH can cause that... and some strains eat more Mg then others... some eat x2 or so

no douches today
 
jes, we're soilless on these bad boys. or girls, as it were. and when we feed/water/whatever u wanna call it, the pH is always about right for Coco/what the nute packaging recommends

the waxiness and yellowing or whatever appears to have stagnated.. or is at least advancing more slowly than yesterday. it wasn't damn 106 today tho, high was only 99 haha.
 
umm i only ask cause it looks like Mg def and low pH can cause that... and some strains eat more Mg then others... some eat x2 or so

no douches today

lol good! douching is bad for you anyway! especially if you don't have a vajay....

i see i see. i will have to do more research about Royal Bluematic, but there unfortunately isn't much available i can see... the most in depth i've seen has been random journals here and there (some on RIU) but i do see a type breakdown.. 10% sativa 60% indica 30% ruderalis.. idk shit about rudalis... in fact i didn't know it existed until today. and interestingly, the other plant to show a more similar case is also an auto, so perhaps the ruderalis type tends to yellow/be a more "hardy" seeming leaf and this is how a ruderalis strain reacts to heat stress.......................... :eyesmoke: :eyesmoke: :eyesmoke:

RIU needs a rainbow/the more you know emoji. LOL for now this will have to do: :dunce:
 
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