Kw hours and lights

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Deerhunter617

Well-Known Member
Sorry guys the more voltage example you have a 400watt bulb running 120 is alittle over 3.5 amps give or take then your ballast pulls Another amp or so there is no way that this is going to make your meter turn the same speed as a 400watt bulb running 240 volts because because it's running have as many amps amps can be converted to watts which is the energy being used just because the bulb reads 400 watts at every voltage doesn't nes. mean that's the energy being used I've read numorous threads saying that it is and for those guys if you have multitap lights hook them up at 220 and look plus most exposed ballast that are multi tap 120/208/277/480 give you the amperage(energy being used) of the fixture so it's retarded to think that if everything in your house runs 120 your electric bill will be the same as if everything runs 220 come on Ray charlse can see that shit everything is your house runs at so many watts but the more voltage it runs off of means the less energy it takes to run it in return is going to make your meter turn slower
 
i just explained this in another thread,
Obviously, there is sufficiently little difference in the big picture that both standards have survived in different jurisdictions. (In fact, there are more than two standards: there are places with 110, 120, 130, 220, 230 240 V nominal line voltage [generally +/-6%] plus both 50 and 60 Hz frequency standards. There has been a little progress toward increasing standardization, but it has been very slow.) The existence of the various standards has been largely the result of local politics and historical accident. Roughly speaking, to operate a particular appliance requires a particular amount of POWER, which (at least for resistive loads) is current times voltage. If you double the voltage, you draw half the current to achieve the same power. The primary advantage of lower current is that you lose less power in the wires feeding current to the appliance (or you can use smaller, cheaper wires for the same power loss rating). On the other hand, the higher voltage is somewhat more dangerous if accidentally touched or if there is an accidental short circuit. Some experienced electricians are relatively casual about touching 110 V circuits, but all respect 230 V. (This constitutes a "don't-try-this-at-home thing, though--it's quite possible to get a fatal shock or start a fire with 110 V!) Current trends are toward the use of even lower voltages (24 V, 12 V, 5 V, 3.3 V...) for any devices which don't draw much total power to increase safety. Power is rarely distributed at these lower voltages; rather it is converted from 110 V or 230 V by a transformer at the earliest opportunity. Even in North America, 220-240 V is commonly used in residential appliances for most high-power electrical appliances (ovens, furnaces, dryers, large motors, etc.) so that the supply current and supply wire size can be smaller. Higher power industrial applications often use 480 V or more. And, of course, transmission lines use progressively higher voltages as the distance and total power go up (22,000 V for local distribution to 1,000,000 V for long distance lines).For further reading, one good newsgroup discussion on the issue can be found at sci.engr.lighting:http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...%3D10%26sa%3DN
 
mydixiewrecked said:
i just explained this in another thread,
Obviously, there is sufficiently little difference in the big picture that both standards have survived in different jurisdictions. (In fact, there are more than two standards: there are places with 110, 120, 130, 220, 230 240 V nominal line voltage [generally +/-6%] plus both 50 and 60 Hz frequency standards. There has been a little progress toward increasing standardization, but it has been very slow.) The existence of the various standards has been largely the result of local politics and historical accident. Roughly speaking, to operate a particular appliance requires a particular amount of POWER, which (at least for resistive loads) is current times voltage. If you double the voltage, you draw half the current to achieve the same power. The primary advantage of lower current is that you lose less power in the wires feeding current to the appliance (or you can use smaller, cheaper wires for the same power loss rating). On the other hand, the higher voltage is somewhat more dangerous if accidentally touched or if there is an accidental short circuit. Some experienced electricians are relatively casual about touching 110 V circuits, but all respect 230 V. (This constitutes a "don't-try-this-at-home thing, though--it's quite possible to get a fatal shock or start a fire with 110 V!) Current trends are toward the use of even lower voltages (24 V, 12 V, 5 V, 3.3 V...) for any devices which don't draw much total power to increase safety. Power is rarely distributed at these lower voltages; rather it is converted from 110 V or 230 V by a transformer at the earliest opportunity. Even in North America, 220-240 V is commonly used in residential appliances for most high-power electrical appliances (ovens, furnaces, dryers, large motors, etc.) so that the supply current and supply wire size can be smaller. Higher power industrial applications often use 480 V or more. And, of course, transmission lines use progressively higher voltages as the distance and total power go up (22,000 V for local distribution to 1,000,000 V for long distance lines).For further reading, one good newsgroup discussion on the issue can be found at sci.engr.lighting:http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...%3D10%26sa%3DN
Click to expand...

The higher the voltage your transmission lines run at, the lower the current. Power lost through a line of resistance R ohms carrying a current of i amps is i^2 R watts. So the higher the voltage you can run your transmission lines at, the less power those lines will dissipate.
 
Lol you guys no current is loss in the first hundred feet of wire if the correct size wire is chosen for whatever application you are installing rule of thumb is after the first to hundred feet you start up sizing on your wire size ever hundred feet do you want me to show you how to figure voltAge drop
 
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