KneeCap's 2nd Medical Card Grow...Crop 4 (Incl. Step-by-step DIY Bubble Cloner!)

Grow Journal IV – Michigan Medical Marihauna Card – Year 2 Crop 4



2012.1.27 Filled Up the CloneRx32: Step by Step DIY Bubble Cloning Made Easy!!!


The birth of crop 4 begins, like the birth of every clone crop, by loading up the clone box. Each time I use it, I break it all the way down and remove all salts and contaminates. Then I put it back together, making sure everything is handled with VERY CLEAN hands. Instead of making a whole post with this DIY bubblecloner as the main subject, I'm just going to begin this journal out with me putting it together and loading it up. I taped off 2 slots, so it is technically the CloneRX 30... Here goes.


To make a DIY Bubble Cloner (which I HIGHLY recommend you do) you will need the following items:



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[TD]Yes, a 15ish gallon bin with a sturdy build and NON-TRANSLUSCENT lid. The last part is important. Appropriate holes. IE: You need to buy a hole saw bit that corresponds with the Neoprin Plugs you decide to go with.

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[TD]Neoprin inserts, this one is 1 3/4". They are available here on the internet, or at most growstores.



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[TD]4 or more Watts worth of Air Pump power. Yes, these $10 hollers are available at Wal Fart. Don't cheap out (come on, get off your ass and go to Wal Mart), the bubbles are VERY IMPORTANT. Duh, its a bubble cloner.

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[TD]These come with the pumps if you would have went to Wal Mart. I don't endorse Wal Mart, but hey, you can get most of the stuff you need there, so just go there, trust me.


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[TD]Fish tank tubing. Now, the black piece is for the outside, if you can get black tubing, I recommend it. Gorilla Tape. Buy it by name...



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[TD]...Its the shit. It costs more, but one rip off this roll, and you'll know where the other Washingtons went. I've put whole grow ops together with a couple rolls of this shit, I swear by it.

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[TD]Airstones. Wal Mart. The Biggest ones they got.


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[TD]4 of them should do. Just make sure they can fit into the bottom of whatever tub you get.

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[TD]Internal Fish Tank Thermometer. Guess Where I Got This One!


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[TD]My tub is pretty deep, as you can see. And the sidewalls are sturdy as hell. They are still rubbery, but very firm.

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Okay, so get that stuff together, or stuff a lot like it, and come back and read the rest.



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[TD]1. Tape the stones in the bottom Very Tight, carefull not to have any exposed corners or major air pockets in the tape. Take your time on this, get it tight.


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[TD]2. Here is the air direction valves under the lid. Make holes for the air hose on the lid near the handle. Put the black tube on the outside with the valves under the lid, making sure the arrows point down.

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[TD]3. Hook the hose inside up to the airstones. Tape the hose along the sides leading up towards where the holes in the lid will be when the lid is closed.
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[TD]4. Make sure to keep the hose close to the wall everywhere except where the stop valves will be when its closed.


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[TD]5. Put all of the neoprin inserts into the holes that you drilled into the lid using a hole saw that you made sure was the right size at the hardware store before purchasing. Tape off holes that wont be used.

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[TD]6. Fill 'er up. Use tap water. Put it in there at the desired range of 73-76. Fill it up until, with the lid on and the sidewalls restrained by the lid, will be about 6 inches below the lid.


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[TD]7. The important thing to know here is that the stems of the cuttings won't actually be making contact with the actual surface of the water. Keep it low enough. Mist travels about 8 inches untill it begins to dissapate drastically.

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[TD]8. Stick the thermometer in the front corner inside the box.




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[TD]9. Hook the lines up to the stop valves.

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[TD]10. Tape the back on REALLY FGOOD.

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[TD]11. Close it, secure with front straps of tape.

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[TD]12. Plug in the air pumps and fire her up.

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[TD]13. Each plug, when pulled, should look like this.

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[TD]14. pH time...

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[TD]15. Dump some pH down in and stir it up.



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[TD]16. Close it tight and strap it. Should be free of any light leaks – this is VERY CRUCIAL. NO LIGHT LEAKS, not even tiny pinhole light leaks. Bubble it for 24 hours.

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[TD]17. Confirm temperature (mine was at 73) and pH (mine was at 6.6)

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[TD]18. Take a cutting. Without doing anything to the stem, load it into the neoprine like so.

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[TD]19. Flop em back into the holes on the lid.

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[TD]20. Fully loaded!

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[TD]21. 2 x 26w CFL's about 2 feet abvoe should be plenty of light to get this bowl lit. Keep em on 24/7.

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[TD]22. Don't forget to mark down whats what. I got each hole on the lid numbered and the chart says what strain is in what hole.

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That was easy now wasn't it? Hell, the whole thing, lights and all, probably cost me a hundo, but what the hell, it kicks a lot of ass. Put your clones in this beast with confidence that it will turn out 100% clones from good cuttings. Here is the makeup of clones on this run:


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[TD="width: 33%"] Juicy Fruit
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[TD="width: 33%"] 5
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[TD="width: 33%"] 2 thru 6
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[TD="width: 33%"] Indica #1
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[TD="width: 33%"] 7 thru 8
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[TD="width: 33%"] Indica #2
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[TD="width: 33%"] White Lightning
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[TD="width: 33%"] 5
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[TD="width: 33%"] 12 thru 16
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[TD="width: 33%"] G-13
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[TD="width: 33%"] 5
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[TD="width: 33%"] 17 thru 21
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[TD="width: 33%"] Apollo 13
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[TD="width: 33%"] 27 thru 32
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[TD="width: 33%"] Northern Lights
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[TD="width: 33%"] 5
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That's it/ Check under the hood starting in 5 days. Wait till all of them are ready (some roots will go into the water, that's fine).

It's day 5, time to look under the hood and see what's happening. If you noticed the clones starting to droop at all, even a little, it might mean something is wrong. I didn't have that problem, but I looked in there and didn't see a single root bump or hair. !?!?!?! Shit! Usually, by day 5, you should see SOMETHING, trust me, I do this. Okay, don't panic, first you wanna close the lid to a crack and look in there. Is there ANY light getting in? It should look pitch black. Check the temp. I did. Its 76 - just a little below ideal, but its not a factor. Check for slime. Clean your hands REALLY REALLY good, with bleach or something that says it kills 99% of germs. The go in there and feel things. Feel the tubing. Feel the wall above the waterline. Visually examine the stems. If you see a thin layer of clear or cloudy slime on it, that is bad. Not a death sentence, but not good. If there is slime on the walls and not the stems, you are where I am. This "slime" could be algae, could be something else... the bottom line is that it IS the reason that nothing is happening under the hood. Carefully, with the clean hand (re-wash them if you think you should) ever-so-gently rub a stem or two and see if there is slime that you can feel but not see on it. If so, you can kind of rub it off. Use the water in the tub to help you. If there is roots or root nubs, don't attempt this. The next thing is to put the lid on another bin (empty and sterile), and clean the bin out. Clean everything by bleaching it with 10% bleachwater that is hot to the touch. Then, after it all dries, you must soak each element in rubbing alcohol – the higher the % of alcohol the faster it will be ready to use again. Each airstone must be totally dry before putting it all back together. After the airstones are totally dry (or replaced), put it back together and fill it back up like the steps above. During all of this, monitor the stems under the lid. If they get dry, mist the roots with pH'd tapwater. Feel the bottom of the neoprene to make sure there is no slime on them. If there is, clean your hand and try to wipe it off. Yeah, I said it, wipe it off. Clean your fingers a lot during this. From here on out, if your temp avg is under 80, check every 3 days to make sure the slime don't come back. If it is over 80, get it under 80. If it is too hard to keep it under 80, check it every 12 hours you meth head. With this minor setback, the roots should still appear within the next 48 hours.

P.s. I would go into how to avoid this problem by using hydrogen peroxide before the step where you bubble for 24 hours then add the clones. The reason I decided not to do either was that it is a very advanced topic, you'll need ppm strips that measure HP. You can do the math yourself too, HP is generally 3% H2O2. So if you want to dodge the slime, keep the temp below 75 or research ways to add bublling HP for 24 hours before loading it up. Hope this was helpful, hit me up if you have any questions. I want to be helpful here, and not frighten or confuse anyone. If anyone wants to add their change on this topic, feel free, but keep the blowtorch in the trunk please, this is a very touchy topic.

Another way to kill this stuff... Take a pitcher full of water out of the tub. Begin adding ice cubes. Add about a hanful. Come back in an hour and check the temp. If your temp stays around 76-80, it will warm back up. You are shooting for 70-72. Once the ice cubes get you there, it will take about 2 days before it gets back above 75. You might be saying, why so hot? My gramma has to have the heat on 75/76 all day and night, so its a problem, alright? I take care of granny, she's 91 this month, and what's cozy to her is cozy for Pythium. I think im gonna do this method. Even if you take the temp down to 68, that won't matter because it will heat back up. Seriously, the clonebox is in the laundry room, on the dryer. Its always 76 in there. Roots will grow below 75. It takes longer, but they WILL grow. Above 75 - it might be a race between the slime and the roots. If they started and are halfway done looking, you might make it. More times than not, the slime will eventually win, killing the cutting. So its a race you might not win. Cooler temps means you will see the finish line.

I took out 1 qt of water and added 1 qt of ice. I'll let ya'll know whats up by Sunday. The plan is to have it below 75 - closer to 70 - for 24 hours. That should make it so Pythium can't thrive. Beyond that, I will be monitoring slime and temp every 8 hours. In 24 hours, if the slime aint gone, back to plan A I go. Final note: don't buy things the grow store guy tells you to buy to "kill the algae" these products are for other things, not bubblecloner boxes. They might work, but they will hinder the process almost as much as the slime. If you got the light leaks fixed, the temp is the only way to keep this at bay or stop it in its tracks. Never having it in the first place is good, let the grow store guy tell you that trick.

and PS - if someone wants to make a fool out of me and tell me better ways to avoid and/or fix this problem, be my guest, I would LOVE to hear it. I've tried everything, and realistically, the two things I put above are the ONLY ones that worked. The first way is good because it resets everything except the root growth. You can go a couple more days before the slime comes back if you start your water at 73. By then, there should be enough roots for the slime not to stop them from fully developing. The second one is just a way to change the environment so that the Pythium can't dominate.

So what I did was I dumped it, bleached everything, sterilized everything with alcohol, and put it all back together and fired it back up at 72 degrees. Three weeks after the first start up, all the clones are finally out of it... below is the story...

The slime got me, causing it to take 3 weeks to finish the rooting. Only one of the G13 clones grew any roots. I only kept 1 of each of the Indica's so there was 5 of each of White Lightning, Juicy Fruit, Northern Lights and Apollo 13. Half way through the 20 or so days I changed the water, cleaned out the tub and sterilized everything in it with first bleach then rubbing alcohol. Towards the end, the slime came back. My avg. Temp ended up being 76 degrees. Granny keeps it at 76. Can't change that.Here is a trip down memory lane...


Those G13's on the right aint doin' shit. This is on 2/8, 11 days after starting. The slime is that white junk you see on the plugs and the lid


The first wave of rooted clones, planted on 2/8


On the right is the secondwave to come off the cloner on 2/11



What was left after the second wave was planted


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[TD]Crazy dude... Wave 3, 2/13[/TD]
[TD]White Lightning...[/TD]
[TD]Planting a White Lightning. Hey, that's my white lightning cut that I procured in April 2010...still "around" thanks to my homies. I used it for my profile pic on this site when I made my profile... That was the original White Lighting, now we call it the OG Brand Cut lol.[/TD]
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[TD]Northern Lights[/TD]
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These guys found the clone room, found the clones... and maybee even found a snack or two but I doubt it.



23 Clones kicking it in about 78 watts total CFL lighting planted in Ocean Forest with a splash of Super B+ to help them settle in.



These babies are very happy.

Alright, so there you have it. This whole stash of clones actually has nothing to do with crop 4. I just grew em for a couple people. The G13 is insurance I guess, and I kept one of each of the Indica just in case it kicks serious ass and I wanna grow more of it. So for crop 4, I'm now preparing the CloneRx for another run. This time, I have to have 24 plants due to the fact that, by then, the paperwork should be good to go for my patient as I am going to become a caregiver for someone. 6 strains, 4 plants each... I am about to get some seeds in the mail, so who knows? Peace! - Strong Meds~! XP

You might have noticed how I like to mention products by name, even posting pics of them and what not. Do not mistake this as me giving anyone props unless that is what Iam doing. I use things because I have gotten to know how well I can trust them. For example, Ocean Forest... Every time I pour some out of the bag... a couple days go by... and then this guy shows up near the clones:


I have learned throughout the years that this is a Western Conifer Seed Bug (Leptoglossus occidentalis) – hint: they don't haveem in Michigan



Although it looks like some kind of Prime Suspect for Malicious Destruction of Greenery, what I have found are things you might need to know about this virtual non-threat. They feed on sap, and have a natural immunity to terpenes (plant essence oils usually in plants to repell bug attacks) and if they can't eat their normal diet of sap, they will feed on flowering plants. Key word "flowering." In your buds, this guy will do some major damage (although I have never seen the evidence...read on). In male flowers they will "Reek Havok". In your clones and veg plants, they tend to hang out on the perimeter and just chill out. They can live an incredible amount of time feeding on nothing. Do they fly? I have never seen one fly, but judging from the wings, I would say they could probably cruise. The worst thing about these guys is that they don't eat other bugs AT ALL. So kick their freeloadin' asses out cha grow space dude. Seriously, these sapsuckers are mean looking... they don't and wont bite a person, but they have the same kind of defence (as well as look) as a "Stink Bug." Living up to its name, a stink bug has a highly concentrated pheromone that it releases when under attack to stun their attacker. Yeah, it basically smells like a really bad, too many days of heartburn, lots of Beano fart. Acrid. In a no-fan having clone room, you smell it, but its not that bad – its WAY less intense than a real Stink Bug. Here is why this dude is nothing to worry about, even though he apparently is inevitable if you are running ocean forest: This fucker is big as hell dawg! This one was a whopping 1/2 inch long, and it was a medium sized one. I've seen one that looked like a small animal with its stature and stance. So while you are scanning your flowering plants for microscopic bugs and evidence of their existence, this fucker will jump out at you like a sore dick. In the veg and clone room, they will just be sitting there on the outside of the plants looking off to the side. They stand tall and proud and act like nothing scares them. Which makes it real easy to close em in a jar and toss em where ever. I gotta tell ya, flush that hoe. In fact, I just throw the jar with the bug in it away. Off to some shitty neighborhood with a landfill in it you go. This species is a MAJOR headache if you actually let it go outside and it somehow reproduces. When fall hits (winter in the south), they are like small rodents, they come to your home in packs trying to seek refuge. Don't let em out near a pine forest unless you want to get rid of that pine forest in a matter of about 5 years. Fuck em. I feel bad shipping them, they are kinda cool. But my conscious tells me: if you want bugs for pets, stick to the ones that eat aphids, worms, eggs, and larve. Ladybugs are cool. Praying Mantis are the shit too.But never trust a bug that will resort to eating your weed and refuses to eat other bugs.


About squishing bugs: I can stomp on ants with the best of them. I have had spiders and scorpions for pets... uh, the bigger the bug, the harder it is for me to smash it. I think it has to do with the mess. With this guy, it was more like the fear that he would survive the initial hit and try to retaliate. Or the bond I have with these guys. I've been using Ocean Forest since that shit was invented (there's the plug, oh no I didn't), so I have been through this crop after crop after crop. I just feel like when I see a new one, its the last one coming back like a cat that got lost found his way home 500 miles away. I put him in the empty bottle of Biothrive Bloom and sent him to the landfill, non-recycle-able. So there is a chance he might make it...

Hey man nice setup! Real good read and information. My sister and I used to call those stink bugs when we were little. Looks like you have your self a mighty green thumb sir

titycaca said:

Hey man nice setup! Real good read and information. My sister and I used to call those stink bugs when we were little. Looks like you have your self a mighty green thumb sir

Click to expand...

why thank you...My resin stained green thumb has been planting dope since I was 15. That's 25 years, and I can't think of more than like 3 years maybe where I didn't crop out at least one time. There are real stink bugs, they are fatter but do look almost exactly the same. The main difference I noticed was that these sap suckers emit a lot kinder "odor" than the actual stink bugs lol. Seriously, a stink bug will stink up the room! These guys, well, if there is a fan on you might not smell it. Plus, they don't frighten very easily. I've played with these guys like pets before, and they just stand there and chill..


[h=1]Pentatomidae (stink bug)[/h]

I gotta say that if you stumbled on this thread somehow, check out my other ones. I am running 3 crops or more at once at any given time, under one small as hell roof, so you will see some things when it comes to tight spot cramped claustrophobic shit. But there is a lot of things going on in this house all at once, you might not see it just reading one journal. All of it is stuff that is worth getting excited about.




Fill er back up… this time, I decided to start the water at 71. I’ve been trying
to get the house temp to stay at 73, so far granny didn’t freeze to death. Today
was her 91[SUP]st[/SUP] birthday. So let’s try this again.


As you can see on the side panel, the “Run 3” diagram on the right is the layout for the clones. If ya can’t read it, it looks like this:


That’s all for now. Oh yeah, I started 4 Skunk No. 1 seeds which should be ready to work into crop 4, but then again, I might do a longer
process to determine sex before cloning for production. The seeds all “popped” so we’ll see what happens. I’m excited to say the least.

2.18 started the cloner back up

Sunday, May 6th 2012...

View attachment 2157154

Well, here we have a bunch of seed plants. The Feminized are 2 mystery plants and a Trainwreck. The Mystery plants are either Church, Trainwreck, or Cheese. The other 6 are 4 Skunk No. 1 (1 of which is Def. a Male) and 2 PCK's . I'll know about the sex on all of these within a week or so through cloning. This crop will go in the tent. 4 weeks later, I will start the 6 Clones (my strain collection). More comprehensive updates are coming real soon on crop 4, so check back. This is when 4 week rotations begin so a lot more is being done than me updating the journals... o_0 haha, i followed your advice.... i got a life.

kneecapman said:

and PS - if someone wants to make a fool out of me and tell me better ways to avoid and/or fix this problem, be my guest, I would LOVE to hear it. I've tried everything, and realistically, the two things I put above are the ONLY ones that worked. The first way is good because it resets everything except the root growth. You can go a couple more days before the slime comes back if you start your water at 73. By then, there should be enough roots for the slime not to stop them from fully developing. The second one is just a way to change the environment so that the Pythium can't dominate.

Click to expand...

So this thread ain't exactly "trending" and I never got an answer. Finally, a guy at one of the grow stores in the area recommended Clear Rez. It works like a dream... but the thing is, it costs about a buck an ounce or more depending how and where you buy it. Not too bad, right? SHIT! "Put 1 oz per 5 gal. EVERY 5 DAYS." Well wait, if I get the clones out in 2 weeks, that's 9 oz... NOT COOL. Then I found this thread searching for Clear Rez online...https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/423650-make-2200-worth-clear-rez.htmlHere is the stuff you need to know...

• 

  Make $2200 worth of "Clear Rez" for $4 !!!

  That is correct. Same EXACT ingredient as EZ Clone Clear Rez that sells for $20 a QT. Get your self a 1 lb bag of HTH Pool shock non PH buffered available online and most hardware stores (bought mine from Ace). Mix 1 GRAM (450 in the bag) per gallon of solution. Will make the SAME EXACT concentration fo the SAME EXACT product. $4 will make you 450 gallons of the stuff and will treat over 286,000 gallons of water !!

  

  Should last you a little while ... Can you say markup ??

  

  Been using this on all my clone machines and all my ebb and flow reservoirs now with great success. You use 1 OZ per 5 gallons. I actually make it a lot stronger at 24 grams per gallon then only have to use a teaspoon per 5 gallons. Works very well in both systems. Works better then H202. You need to reapply every 3 days to keep bacteria at bay. You can actually use much stronger doses if you like. City water is 1-5 PPM of chorine when you add this it only raises the PPM level of chlorine less then 1/2 a PPM. Very safe and very effective. Found my PH levels to be much more stable in my larger reservoirs compared to using 2 doses of 30% H202 per week. Its doing a better job of killing the nasties

  

  $4 of this

  

  Makes $2200 worth of this

  

  ​

YAY! I just ordered a bag of this shit on Amazon, it was 15 bucks delivered. Sounds like a lifetime supply of Clear Rez for 15 bones. Ya can't beat it. But Goddam, you gotta admire the Clear Rez people - they have to be billionaires by now. All their clone boxes are marked up 300 + % as well as the hormone gel and basically everything they make. Yet, grow stores can't seem to keep the shit on the shelves. Including Clear Rez. I feel like cheating making my own for so cheap, but then again, THEY ARE RAKING IN THE CA$H!!! I seen a dude buy 3 of those 4 oz bottles at 6 bucks each when I was at the grow store the other day. That was before I knew what I now know. Knowledge is good shit... just be sure to pass it on because there ARE people out there who probably can't even afford Clear Rez. Alright, I'm done ranting, I just have one more thing to say...

Today, I found out that the Pakistan Chitral Kush #1 plant IS in fact, a MALE. So:

Crop 4

Males
Skunk No. 1 #1
PCK #1

Females
Trainwreck (Feminized)
Mystery Plant #1 (Feminized)
Mystery Plant #2 (Feminized)

Unknowns
Skunk No. 1 #2
Skunk No. 1 #5
Skunk No. 1 #6
PCK #2

This is the first crop of the "Every 4 Weeks" pop-off shit. My plan is 6 plants per crop. I hope to plant on the new moon, which is the 20th of May... which means Crop 3 has to get harvested next week with a quickness. Crop 2 took me and my assistant a whole week to carve the buds out of that stringy 10 Apollo 13 scrog.

Crop 4 will be grown in 50/50 Sunshine Mix 4 and Happy Frog. I will be running them in 7 gallon air pots. they were in dixie cups for 3 weeks, 2 gal. pots for a month, and 4 gal. pots for the better part of a month before I transplant them into the airpots that crop 3 is currently in. I have 2 600 watt and 1 1000 watt 6" Air Cooled HPS lamps. I am running with the General Organics Main Components and whatever else I like to use for all the other things that the plants need. Basically, Rich Humic, Sensizym, B52 Bomber for Vit. B (Currently, although I will switch back to Super B+), and bubbled for 24 hours well water. Its hard, but lacks the chemicals that city water has. I can see the rust on older leaves just like the rust in my bathtub by the drain. lol. Crop 3 as well as 4 and 5 are all done using low stress bending (stakes, twisty ties). I have been proudly growing organic in soil mixes for 25 years this summer. I learned outdoors and grew my first indoor and first hydro crop in 1996. Since I was 15 years old, I have read about 50 books on the subject of Horticulture and Growing MJ. Since then, there has only been about three whole years that I know of for sure where I didn't crop out at least once. I hate to give growing advice. If I had to I would say this:

#1 Buy and Read a book about growing Medical Marijuana. There's a few out there, they are real fun to read, I know you hate to read, but if you do you might not even ask me for help anymore.

#2 Pick a method and stick to it from beginning to end. That way, if you end up needing help, it will be a lot easier for someone to figure out what you did.

#3 Buy everything you know you will need from start to finish BEFORE you start.

#4 Don't Over do or under do it.

#5 Don't try to increase your yield with over hyped stress techniques.

#6 If you find something that works good for you - stick to it, improve on THAT instead of trying something totally new.

Crop 5 is already veggin as well. It is the Clones of the Strains I have retained over the years. One of Each:

Hash Plant (Of Unknown Origin)
Northern Lights
Apollo 13
G13
Juicy Fruit
White Lightning

That will go in 4 weeks after Crop 4 gets flipped.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfNHX5k9N-A

Uncle acid will make your plants GROW VIGOROUSLY LIKE A MUTHER FUCKER! only grow tip im giving out this week....

Today, I found out that the PCK # 2 and the Skunk No.1 #5 ARE FEMALES. \o/ yay!

SO...

• Crop 4
  
  Males
  Skunk No. 1 #1
  PCK #1
  
  Females
  Trainwreck (Feminized)
  Mystery Plant #1 (Feminized)
  Mystery Plant #2 (Feminized)
  Skunk No. 1 #5
  PCK #2
  
  Unknowns
  Skunk No. 1 #2
  Skunk No. 1 #6
  
  Because I don't have a place to flower these males as of yet, I am destroying the PCK #1 and the Skunk No. 1 #1 plants (Oops) I didn't even take a clone of the Skunk male! Oh well, if the other two are both females, I guess I won't have Skunk No. 1 pollen. Not a huge loss. Not as huge as only getting one female and one male out of the PCK seed pack. I do have PCK #1 (male) in the cloner already rooted... I'm just waiting for someone to get these Trainwreck clones out of here so I have a spot for it. The last thing to hope for is that the PCK Female is a Purple one! Cross fingers for me...​

  
  
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I am 90 % sure that the mystery plants are Cheese and Church...

and i know for sure the female pck is purple

Purple Pakistan Chitral Kush 4 weeks flower