Keep getting root rot brown roots??

ok so I keep getting root rot ...
My setup is a current culture system.
I have a appropriate water chiller
I run the hole uc line of nutes .
My humidity is 60
400ppm co2
Heat sits perfectly at 80
I run one 80 Air Force pump per 12 sites I have the uc buckets all insulated
I run 12 ml of uc roots every other day
I have a 55 gal Rez that tops off my levels perfectly
... only thing I thought of is both my chillers are in a closed room with my air pumps ... it’s 90 plus deg in the room
Or when I do my Rez change my water comes out at 55 degrees until it warms up in the system?? Any one have any thoughts

Only thing

Kove said:

ok so I keep getting root rot ...
My setup is a current culture system.
I have a appropriate water chiller
I run the hole uc line of nutes .
My humidity is 60
400ppm co2
Heat sits perfectly at 80
I run one 80 Air Force pump per 12 sites I have the uc buckets all insulated
I run 12 ml of uc roots every other day
I have a 55 gal Rez that tops off my levels perfectly
... only thing I thought of is both my chillers are in a closed room with my air pumps ... it’s 90 plus deg in the room
Or when I do my Rez change my water comes out at 55 degrees until it warms up in the system?? Any one have any thoughts

Only thing

Click to expand...

You might just be staining them man. It happens in RDWC setups. Saying you run an entire lineup of nutes, I'm sure it's a dark mix by the time you're all mixed in?

This is them ...

This is the same nutes ! But this is in my aero cloner ....

Kove said:

This is them ...

Click to expand...

They looked stained. Not to say they don't look all that healthy though..

The first pic looks like pythium (root rot). The second pic looks healthy.

Water holds dissolved oxygen (this prevents pythium). Waters ability to hold dissolved oxygen is very limited at temperatures above 70 degrees F. Therefore keeping the water around 65 degrees will help the DO levels stay up. Water pumps and air pumps add heat. Your aquarium chiller may be required at a different location in your setup to get the water cool enough to hold oxygen. The best way to aerate water IME is the waterfall effect.

There are products out there that can help, beneficial bacteria, hydroguard and the like but water temperature is the main cause of pythium does not like oxygen and warm water won't hold enough dissolved oxygen.

"Pythium is a genus of parasitic oomycotes. They were formerly classified as fungi. Most species are plant parasites, but Pythium insidiosum is an important pathogen of animals, causing pythiosis. The feet of the fungus gnat are frequently a vector for their transmission."

I hope this information helps.

try the pool shock recipe

I'm not so sure 80 is perfect. Do the roots feel slimy and smell or do they still have that wirey feel?

The roots They pull right off ... my water stays between 65-67 .... but my air pump is in 90 plus degrees heat in a inclosed room that’s pumping into the air stones ...

Kove said:

The roots They pull right off ... my water stays between 65-67 .... but my air pump is in 90 plus degrees heat in a inclosed room that’s pumping into the air stones ...

Click to expand...

Sure sounds like a bad case of pythium.

So the water thats around the roots is 65 - 67?

It sounds like your chiller isn't being used properly. You want to circulate the nutrients that are at the roots through the chiller to keep the root zone cool.

I got Pythium once and have ran a sterile res ever since. I use the pool shock method and it works wonderfully.

If your air pump is pumping hit air I I the cool water I would suggest moving the air pump if at all possible. The water temps you listed aren't bad but that hit air injection can't be good.

Looking at those pictures you posted though I don't see root rot. The roots don't look slimy or wierd. They look stained from dark color nutrients. When I used floranova bloom my roots would always get stained like that because the nutes are so dark brown. I don't know anything about the nutrients your using though.

Thundercat said:

Looking at those pictures you posted though I don't see root rot. The roots don't look slimy or wierd.

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I dunno, he did mention the roots just pull right off.

The air pump is compressing air, that makes the air hotter, basic thermodynamics. So taking 90 degree air and compressing it will be a bad thing if you can't offset that heat at the root zone.

I run my cold air intake right over my air pump which is outside my grow space.I also have a inline fan in case I need more cold air.Negative pressure in my room usually keeps the fresh air flowing without the fan running.

I run a 40 air pump thats about 15' away from the first stone.The air is cool by the time it gets into the room.

Renfro said:

Sure sounds like a bad case of pythium.

So the water thats around the roots is 65 - 67?

Click to expand...

Yes I keep the chiller at 65-67 ...

Thundercat said:

I got Pythium once and have ran a sterile res ever since. I use the pool shock method and it works wonderfully.

If your air pump is pumping hit air I I the cool water I would suggest moving the air pump if at all possible. The water temps you listed aren't bad but that hit air injection can't be good.

Looking at those pictures you posted though I don't see root rot. The roots don't look slimy or wierd. They look stained from dark color nutrients. When I used floranova bloom my roots would always get stained like that because the nutes are so dark brown. I don't know anything about the nutrients your using though.

Click to expand...

Me too, when I ran NFT I always kept Chlorine in my res (not Chloramine).

Chloramine is the devil's work.... kills fish if you don't use special dechlorinators that can deaminate it.

Kove said:

Yes I keep the chiller at 65-67 ...

Click to expand...

Do you have an independent thermostat to test your water temp with? Or are you relying solely on the chillers thermostat?

Here's the money question.

Are you starting with reverse osmosis water when you mix nutes?