Jack's City Limits Formula with my Well water Analysis
- Thread starter rkymtnman
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rkymtnman
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rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
the reply i got was from dr cari peters .
i asked her 2 quesitions:
advantages/dis of using City limits vs jacks 321
and is it true that Ca in well water is too big of a molecule to be used by a plant. i've read this in a few places and i've never gotten a definitive true or false.
she also said all my variables were within range and should have no problems.
i asked her 2 quesitions:
advantages/dis of using City limits vs jacks 321
and is it true that Ca in well water is too big of a molecule to be used by a plant. i've read this in a few places and i've never gotten a definitive true or false.
she also said all my variables were within range and should have no problems.
Thank you so much for publishing this. I've got to run out for a bit now, but I'll closely review tonight.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i sent out the sample right after i replaced our pressure tank. i didn't shock the well correctly but that was fixed ASAP and then followed up with our local health dept to make sure the coliform was gone.
but yes, thanks for the concern!
Water purification is right up my alley. I have a room built for my water purification that's underground. I'm going to go right now to take pictures of my setup, and I'll post them in a little while with what each piece does. Having a couple of threads that contain info on custom water purification can't hurt here I don't think.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
the second time i shocked it, i went a bit overboard with the bleach. lol. i eventually ground up a bunch of vit C pills and added that to the well and it finally got rid of the bleach.
is that what you do for a living?
No. I'm an electrical engineer with a whole bunch of backgrounds besides that which fit right in. Plumbing and physics are two of them. Minute details of timing the opening and closing of valves and such to ensure proper mixtures I do for fun
TintEastwood
Well-Known Member
Been bored, yanking around with nutes.
What do you think of this 10-30-20 mix?
Oops...Mixed this another thread up the 10-30-20 thread.
Last edited:
TintEastwood
Well-Known Member
Good stuff. Looking forward to pics.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
from all the stuff iv'e been reading lately, most people say for hydro your P should be 60 to 100ppm.
This is my property filtration and Chlorination room I've built, and because this isn't my thread, I'll do my best to keep it contained to a single post.
I'm used to living lakeside. I'm also used to living in exceptionally sparsely populated areas. That equates into a situation where I need to think big due to self-sustainability.
The system I've build contains two submersible pumps about 200-300' from shore at the bottom of the lake. I have a 240V transfer switch that I use to go back and forth between the pumps. They are not used simultaneously; one is for backup. I go back and forth just to ensure both are always working.
I draw water from the lake, and it gets forced into 100 gal tank #1. This is the non-purified tank. I have two 2" lines out of this tank. One goes to direct draw, the other leads to the filtration/Cl system. We'll focus on the Cl(orine) path.
There are four other 100 gal tanks in use. Three are for purified water, the other is to store water for irrigation and forest fire suppression and it is unfiltered.
When the water pressure drops (in my home for example), water is drawn from tank #1, and it goes through a pipe where it is injected with a Cl/H2O mixture. I maintain the Cl/H2O at 4-5% most of the year, but up it to ~7% late spring/early summer, because I live at the bottom of a mountain range and the shore of a lake, and at that time of year, contaminants from snow runoff, combined with algae require the higher dose.
Once the Cl injector pump (I have two, one for backup) injects into the stream, the water goes through two different sized particulate filters, and are eventually stored in the three remaining 100 gal storage tanks. Unless in bypass mode, the main line between tank #1 and the rest of the tanks has a pressure tank attached (I call them bubble tanks, because it has a rubber balloon inside).
I've got shutoffs between nearly everything, and I've got a NC (Normally Closed) electrical water shutoff switch on the output of the system. If electricity goes off, so does the water (because the NC switch closes). This ensures that if electricity goes out, pressure will remain in the water system, and of course I'll be alerted. I need to take manual intervention at this point.
The whole thing is overkill for this property, but I'm only here temporarily until I can find another property to buy up north (I was forced out due to forest fire lire last year). All of the tanks were accessible to me in advance, as was almost all of the plumbing materials. Some of the plumbing I dug underground so that I wasn't tripping over it, the rest can be seen in the pics.
When the water comes out of the tap in my house, it's ~42 PPM, and 7.2 pH (at this moment in time... it can range 30-150PPM and 6.7-7.3pH).
Having 300 gallons of purified water, 100 gallons of unpurified water (pre-Cl tank) and 100 gallons of unpurified water (irrigation/suppresion tank) is a huge thing. In power out situations, I disable my NC shutoff to be open by means of short-circuit trickery, and all of that water is available to me anywhere on my property. Since I've lived here, I haven't had to, but if I ever used up all of that water and power is still out, I would just connect the pumps themselves to my 9600W gas generator I use for powering my grow lights in the same situation.
Pics. To the right is the tank where the pumps first pump into. The pressure switch (grey box) turns on the switch if the Pounds Per Square Inch (PSI) goes below 45, and shuts off when it hits 62 PSI. The black tank next to it isn't inline; it's off to the side. It's job is to expel particulates twice per day. The two blue canisters on the wall are particulate filters, large to small, right to left.
Yellow 55 gal drum is the Cl and H2O mixture. I mix it by hand. All of the silver tanks to the left are Chlorinated and filtered storage tanks. Blue tank is the pressure tank.
The three purified storage tanks:
This is the irrigation (for my outdoor gardens, truck washing, whatever else) tank. It is unpurified:
Unfortunately, my wife made some hash and convinced me to get high in the daytime which I don't often do, so I forget what I was posting about. Anyway, hopefully it all made some sense.
I'm used to living lakeside. I'm also used to living in exceptionally sparsely populated areas. That equates into a situation where I need to think big due to self-sustainability.
The system I've build contains two submersible pumps about 200-300' from shore at the bottom of the lake. I have a 240V transfer switch that I use to go back and forth between the pumps. They are not used simultaneously; one is for backup. I go back and forth just to ensure both are always working.
I draw water from the lake, and it gets forced into 100 gal tank #1. This is the non-purified tank. I have two 2" lines out of this tank. One goes to direct draw, the other leads to the filtration/Cl system. We'll focus on the Cl(orine) path.
There are four other 100 gal tanks in use. Three are for purified water, the other is to store water for irrigation and forest fire suppression and it is unfiltered.
When the water pressure drops (in my home for example), water is drawn from tank #1, and it goes through a pipe where it is injected with a Cl/H2O mixture. I maintain the Cl/H2O at 4-5% most of the year, but up it to ~7% late spring/early summer, because I live at the bottom of a mountain range and the shore of a lake, and at that time of year, contaminants from snow runoff, combined with algae require the higher dose.
Once the Cl injector pump (I have two, one for backup) injects into the stream, the water goes through two different sized particulate filters, and are eventually stored in the three remaining 100 gal storage tanks. Unless in bypass mode, the main line between tank #1 and the rest of the tanks has a pressure tank attached (I call them bubble tanks, because it has a rubber balloon inside).
I've got shutoffs between nearly everything, and I've got a NC (Normally Closed) electrical water shutoff switch on the output of the system. If electricity goes off, so does the water (because the NC switch closes). This ensures that if electricity goes out, pressure will remain in the water system, and of course I'll be alerted. I need to take manual intervention at this point.
The whole thing is overkill for this property, but I'm only here temporarily until I can find another property to buy up north (I was forced out due to forest fire lire last year). All of the tanks were accessible to me in advance, as was almost all of the plumbing materials. Some of the plumbing I dug underground so that I wasn't tripping over it, the rest can be seen in the pics.
When the water comes out of the tap in my house, it's ~42 PPM, and 7.2 pH (at this moment in time... it can range 30-150PPM and 6.7-7.3pH).
Having 300 gallons of purified water, 100 gallons of unpurified water (pre-Cl tank) and 100 gallons of unpurified water (irrigation/suppresion tank) is a huge thing. In power out situations, I disable my NC shutoff to be open by means of short-circuit trickery, and all of that water is available to me anywhere on my property. Since I've lived here, I haven't had to, but if I ever used up all of that water and power is still out, I would just connect the pumps themselves to my 9600W gas generator I use for powering my grow lights in the same situation.
Pics. To the right is the tank where the pumps first pump into. The pressure switch (grey box) turns on the switch if the Pounds Per Square Inch (PSI) goes below 45, and shuts off when it hits 62 PSI. The black tank next to it isn't inline; it's off to the side. It's job is to expel particulates twice per day. The two blue canisters on the wall are particulate filters, large to small, right to left.
Yellow 55 gal drum is the Cl and H2O mixture. I mix it by hand. All of the silver tanks to the left are Chlorinated and filtered storage tanks. Blue tank is the pressure tank.
The three purified storage tanks:
This is the irrigation (for my outdoor gardens, truck washing, whatever else) tank. It is unpurified:
Unfortunately, my wife made some hash and convinced me to get high in the daytime which I don't often do, so I forget what I was posting about. Anyway, hopefully it all made some sense.
TintEastwood
Well-Known Member
Understood, that's the 10-30-20, as per Jacks feed schedule. (actually, under they call for 150ppm of N. I'm under that)
I don't feed that strong, but do plan on using the ratio. Exactly when and how long to use it - toughest part ime.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
put up as many pics as you want!
is there a reason for lake water vs a well?
let me find the name of what i've got and ill tell you about my fire solution (not tested yet in real conditions. knocks on wood)
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i use Lucas formula (right or wrong) as my base NPKMg only that i know that it works. so 100/100/200/60.
i think like all of us on the thread, is there a better ratio out there? if so, what is it?
In my case right now, it's because I own this property only temporarily, while I research and find another property up north where I'd rather be. I'm not putting money into this place unless I can relocate the assets to my final destination.
My last place up relatively close to Alaska, I had both well and lake fed, but used lake mostly (well was backup). Know that the further north you go, the less people and equipment there is, so costs skyrocket for simple things, such as getting a well drilled/dug.
The lake is open and free, and very clean the further north you go, so rowing out with 200' of 1.5-2" line with a 30lb submersible attached is something I can do easily.
TintEastwood
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm working up.
Ratios for the different phases.
During budset. NPK 1-3-2.
Flower? 1-2-4???? 1-1-5????
That's exactly what I'm on the hunt for. Even if we dumb it down to the three primary macronutrients, I'm good with that at this point.
The deeper I dig, the farther off the ratios get.
A fun rabbit hole during these holidemic type times
TintEastwood
Well-Known Member
Some mixes I've collected to compare and contrast.
