Info's Probiotic - No Till - Sips 2018

projectinfo

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Info's Organic Projects 2018

No-Till ~ Sub Irrigated ~ Probiotic

Updated Clackamas Coots Soil
"Cooking" for 2 Months

Open to Questions/Comments/Concerns

​
The Mix
1 plant per 15 gal tote

  • 4 - Gal - Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss (25%)
  • 4 - Gal - Castings/Compost (25%)
  • 7 - Gal - Aeration (50%)
Amendments
  • 1 - Cup - Kelp Meal
  • 1 - Cup - Crab Shell Meal
  • 1/2 - Cup - Neem Cake
  • 1/2 - Cup - karanja Cake
  • 2 - Cups - Glacial Rock Dust
  • 2 - Cups - Gypsum
  • 4 - Cups - Basalt
  • 1/4 - cup - Insect Frass
  • Re-Amend with half the amount twice a year .
The Process
  • Veg Stage - Home made green FPE/labs in the res once a week.
  • Fulvic Acid,Coconut Water , Malted Barley, Bokashi, Castings (weekly/byweekly)
  • Veg Foliars - FPE, alfalfa tea, Labs, Citrus ferment, Aloe, Kombucha
  • Alfalfa SST, Corn SST 2-3 weeks

  • Transition - Home-Made Water Soluble Phosphorus and Calcium
  • ^( burned bones and eggs)
  • Continue Veg FPE, Labs weekly in the res.
  • Continue with the foliars until flowers appear.
  • Stop Fulvic/Castings , continue Coconut,Barley,Bokashi
  • Corn SST 2-3 weeks

  • Flower - Pumpkin FPE, Labs in the res weekly
  • Stop foliars
  • Continue with Coconut , Barley, Bokashi
  • Corn SST 2-3 weeks
STRAINS​

PURPLE KUSH
GOD'S SUPER SKUNK X CHERNOBYL

some light reading..
heres a good glossary .
https://themodern.farm/intro/

heres some vieos and playlists. some of the links are between these big videos.. i dont know how to fix this

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeGHRYFVwS1zHwYqGvlEAjvq89iMs2vmz&fbclid=IwAR280sFqx94VKWZpAZI9MiHe0vE8dVuHKHrG7EtsGFK24YWi3eKrsqDYzc0&app=desktop
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k6vn0IbwCnY
https://youtu.be/GZB0g2VtL3A
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwYzzAKXaIYxc3btU6DSmfgsKKMAMa9bL
A Walk around the farm...
1.jpg
the worms
8.jpg 2.jpgKombucha- scobie hotel 3.jpg
Green FPE4.jpg PUMPKIN FPE

5.jpg
WCA WCP6.jpg
Bokashi hard at work.7.jpg gods super skunkx chernobyl seedling9.jpg Purple kush mother test plant got put into the flower room.10.jpg 2 row malted barley , home made LABS, and AEM
 
Last edited:
projectinfo

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Cooked off everything that would make smoke.
. Edit... To get them black, it had to smoke for like 5mins on low broil after an hour ish at 400 f

Outside on a calm canadian winter day

Broiling the eggs to dark brown indoors with broil in a stove

15433420828283756221713410591708.jpg



https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/SA-10.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjF9rnlkfXeAhVBrlkKHVpJCxYQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw2ekKvvV6IuhxEV8Btd-Pbu

DSC_1808.JPG

Burn the bones black to make sure the fatty tissue inside is completly burnt
 

Attachments

Last edited:
projectinfo

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
You should get yourself a 32 degree refractometer to measure Brix levels in your plants.
It is the best way to get feedback once you start using fermented feeds (one of the best ways to get really high brix levels)

Its like $10 on Ebay
Click to expand...
Thanks pal, il get one right now
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
projectinfo said:
Transition - Home-Made Water Soluble Phosphorus and Calcium
Click to expand...
Be careful with Phosphorus inputs, they will lock-out micro-nutrients like Iron and Zinc. I'm not saying that it's a bad idea or anything, but from having my soil tested, I have always had plenty of P and I only used crustacean meal and I dropped fish meal because it was too much P. People want to argue with me about it and tell me that only 10% of P in soil is soluble, but I was also getting a Solubility test to go with the Mehlich 3 test. My soil has NEVER been low in soluble P!!! It's one of those things that can cause more harm than good.
 
projectinfo

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Be careful with Phosphorus inputs, they will lock-out micro-nutrients like Iron and Zinc. I'm not saying that it's a bad idea or anything, but from having my soil tested, I have always had plenty of P and I only used crustacean meal and I dropped fish meal because it was too much P. People want to argue with me about it and tell me that only 10% of P in soil is soluble, but I was also getting a Solubility test to go with the Mehlich 3 test. My soil has NEVER been low in soluble P!!! It's one of those things that can cause more harm than good.
Click to expand...
I will be careful for sure , less is more

Thanks for the input.

Il be using it as a foliar spray, and yes the first few runs il be diluting more than recconended and slowly ramp up over time
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
In other words, adding phosphorus is counter intuitive to high brix! High Brix is all about the trace minerals and an abundance of phosphorus locks them out. They have an antagonist relationship.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
projectinfo said:
I will be careful for sure , less is more

Thanks for the input.

Il be using it as a foliar spray, and yes the first few runs il be diluting more than recconended and slowly ramp up over time
Click to expand...
I wouldn't add it at all unless I had a soil test that shown that I was low... I'm not trying to tell you what to do, but giving advice that I wish someone had given me. Anytime a person suggests using rock phosphate or bone meal, I stop listening to them!!!
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
projectinfo said:
I will be careful for sure , less is more

Thanks for the input.

Il be using it as a foliar spray, and yes the first few runs il be diluting more than recconended and slowly ramp up over time
Click to expand...
I'm no expert, but shouldn't you be foliar feeding with trace elements? If you listen to Clackamas Coots, he doesn't like using phosphorus other than crustacean meal. Really, that is enough P. I've been trying to achieve high brix, so I've been looking into foliar feeding to increase the brix levels which would be trace minerals and a little N. I'm no expert and if you can prove me wrong, point me in the direction of an article or book you read it in.
 
projectinfo

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
I'm no expert, but shouldn't you be foliar feeding with trace elements? If you listen to Clackamas Coots, he doesn't like using phosphorus other than crustacean meal. Really, that is enough P. I've been trying to achieve high brix, so I've been looking into foliar feeding to increase the brix levels which would be trace minerals and a little N. I'm no expert and if you can prove me wrong, point me in the direction of an article or book you read it in.
Click to expand...
What are you using for trace minerals foliar
 
kratos015

kratos015

Well-Known Member
projectinfo said:
What are you using for trace minerals foliar
Click to expand...
Liquid seaweed works wonders. He's right about the P, the amendments you're using already have all that you need.

If your plants start showing deficiencies in flower you can grab a bottle of Fish Hydrolysate to take care of things. Hydrolysate, liquid seaweed, and silica are the only bottle products I use.

Also, use 1/4 - 1/2 a bottle of coconut water per gallon of water once a week and watch your node growth explode and the node spacing decrease.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top