im worried about moisture content in my corn tek?

donmagicjuan

Active Member
they say dry verm and strained dry corn after its soaked and simmered. why does corn tek not need more moisture? the corn holds plenty itself? have 15 pounds of head organic corn!! im going to have 2 big glass jars just corn, verm, p. cooker, and then i want to birth and fruit it... any input on anything about this??:hump:
 
I have often had my doubts about the wetness of the skin of the kernels - it just seems too damn dry but if you feel a properly made and poured agar surface - it is very dry to the touch.


1. Don't "birth" it, let the kernels colonize but before they "knit" pour them in a tray, put the tray in a bag and wait a few day until the mycelium refreshes itelf - then case. You will be rewarded.
 
I would think extra moisture to the verm and corn would be beneficial as far less maintence...just my observation..as far as corn hulls and shells..idk,maybe routes for myco?..at least a source of nutes I suppose..just commenting on what I've read and tried...
 
I have often had my doubts about the wetness of the skin of the kernels - it just seems too damn dry but if you feel a properly made and poured agar surface - it is very dry to the touch.


1. Don't "birth" it, let the kernels colonize but before they "knit" pour them in a tray, put the tray in a bag and wait a few day until the mycelium refreshes itelf - then case. You will be rewarded.

im thinking about noccing 2 of these large glass jars...

kind of like a 1 step case. im still new and im limited with space effort and supplies. so basically i want these big jars with sterile corn, topped with verm to fruit. i was told the difference of birthing it or not would be more small fruits rather than a few big ones? i thought if i birthed it more moister would be able to reach my gigantic cake?

this is my tek video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msUoZPVk-yY&list=UUN0cDChusNL7NOnDMtWMewQ&index=11
 

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im thinking about noccing 2 of these large glass jars...

kind of like a 1 step case. im still new and im limited with space effort and supplies. so basically i want these big jars with sterile corn, topped with verm to fruit. i was told the difference of birthing it or not would be more small fruits rather than a few big ones? i thought if i birthed it more moister would be able to reach my gigantic cake?

this is my tek video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msUoZPVk-yY&list=UUN0cDChusNL7NOnDMtWMewQ&index=11


No man, you are still doing PF but bigger, yah gotta get out from under that sort of notion, mushrooms don't grow that way in nature.
 
so u could say its still pf if i do corn and manure sterilized? would i have better results than brf? thanks for the input, would my big ass cake run into moisture problems in center if it was too big?? im still not set up to go big im just in a tote hoping for 2 big easy cakesters
 
Why does everyone think that PF = small and "bulk" = big?


you can case a single jar and get more fruit than you would using your method and 5 jars.
 
After watching that video. I feel that is a Humongous waste of mushroom spores. Just one 1 cc will inoculate enough substrate for that size casing.

What made you choose this tek over a lot of others? I haven't decided if I hate it or am i just being stubborn to my own ways.
 
it looks easy for someone who only has a p.c. its simple and basically 2 steps, cook the corn, then pc the corn, and ur on ur way. i have no way to pasturize, and no room to grow. my weed jars that i want to use are each as big as 8 little pfjars, so there will be way more material in a much smaller space. my big step this time (2nd grow) is switching to corn from brf. i might even put in some horse shit. i have a feeling every time i grow my ways will become quickly a lot better.

so the big beef is that its all sterile? the good microbes that survive pasturization must really be the balls? what else is it if u use the same materials?
 
This is the way i see growing mushrooms. Colonize the substrate, add humidity, wait......It's my understanding that once the myc is established, it just needs water and a lil air to express itself. The popcorn, coir, verm, and others are mainly used for their water retention attributes not as source of nutrients. (This is just my point of view and not to be confused with the facts.)

Drying fresh grown mushrooms first hand will give you a lot more insight of what i'm trying to say.

I personally rather colonize separate from the casings, an make my own casing rather than all in one. Other wise your gonna go through a fuck ton of syringes. I get 10 casings per syringe with a 10cc syringe Also you can also do .5 cc and wait a week longer to colonize then break down to 1/4's and make 4 casings per .5cc at the sacrifice of a about another weeks time . Ya that's 80 casings by waiting an extra 14 days to fruit, Now you have the potential to grow 80 oz at the price of 2 weeks, or you can put 5 cc in each casing and be 14 days faster but only have the potential for 2oz.
 
This is the way i see growing mushrooms. Colonize the substrate, add humidity, wait......It's my understanding that once the myc is established, it just needs water and a lil air to express itself. The popcorn, coir, verm, and others are mainly used for their water retention attributes not as source of nutrients. (This is just my point of view and not to be confused with the facts.)

Drying fresh grown mushrooms first hand will give you a lot more insight of what i'm trying to say.

I personally rather colonize separate from the casings, an make my own casing rather than all in one. Other wise your gonna go through a fuck ton of syringes. I get 10 casings per syringe with a 10cc syringe Also you can also do .5 cc and wait a week longer to colonize then break down to 1/4's and make 4 casings per .5cc at the sacrifice of a about another weeks time . Ya that's 80 casings by waiting an extra 14 days to fruit, Now you have the potential to grow 80 oz at the price of 2 weeks, or you can put 5 cc in each casing and be 14 days faster but only have the potential for 2oz.


Dude, I got a feeling you don't know what casing is by the way you are using the word.

It is the act of placing a layer of low nutrient material on a fully colonized substrate in order to provide several varieties of support for the fruition of mycelium.

The term "80 casings" has no relevance in mycological terminology. Now if you are using any sort of grain then all you need is one point of dichariotic (sp) mycelium or two points of compatible monocaryotic (sp) mycelium. After that point, at any time you may shake the container holding the lose grain and you will create hundreds of new innoculation points. Shake it again and you will create thousands. This means that even a single point of growth will lag a massive initial inoculation by only a few days at most. You are talking in time spans that are nuts. Given a decent growing Cubensis type, presentable grain substrate and a temperature in the mid 80's you should never have to wait for more than about 8 days max to have full colonization.
 
coco has water retention benifits, but it IS a source of food also....I think the important thing to remember is that either a PFcake or a bulk sub, your only gonna yield as much food as you give to the myc to consume...method is irrelevant when it comes to overall yield i believe, but bulk is easier and faster...
 
coco has water retention benifits, but it IS a source of food also....I think the important thing to remember is that either a PFcake or a bulk sub, your only gonna yield as much food as you give to the myc to consume...method is irrelevant when it comes to overall yield i believe, but bulk is easier and faster...

No, the limiting factor is retained moisture - you will only see a depletion of 30 or 40 percent max in the actual size of your substrate - and likely the nutrients will not have been all consumed by the time either the moisture goes too low or your substrate becomes too acidic and contamination takes over.
 
No, the limiting factor is retained moisture - you will only see a depletion of 30 or 40 percent max in the actual size of your substrate - and likely the nutrients will not have been all consumed by the time either the moisture goes too low or your substrate becomes too acidic and contamination takes over.
I was under the impression a dunk inbetween flushes would keep the sub hydrated and ph in balance till the nutrition in he sub is Used up? And I figured the leftover 60% of the sub was just barren myc, kinda like the roots of a MJ plant after harvest.
 
I was under the impression a dunk inbetween flushes would keep the sub hydrated and ph in balance till the nutrition in he sub is Used up? And I figured the leftover 60% of the sub was just barren myc, kinda like the roots of a MJ plant after harvest.


there seems to be some benifit of "dunking" with certain substrates - the proceedure was borrowed from other mushroom grows - especialy sawdust blocks. You will notice that the mycelium really doesn't allow the substrate it covers to absorb much water - I suppose some of the acid might be washed away but I don't think it works very well. And no, the left over can be reused for other mushrooms down the decomposition ladder - most of the water is drawn from the substrate, some from the casing and little from the environment after the fact. There is plenty of nutrient left in that substrate - more in popcorn, less in other grains.
 
one thing i am worried about is my corn cake falling apart like rye when i go to dunk it. will fully colonized corn fall apart when handled?
i like paul stamets, where can a total beginner go to learn(hopefully a movie) facts not just teks about shrooms?? im like a sponge and theres a new bong in my life!!!
 
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