I cant pin down what is making this happen. Please help if you can!!!!!!!

These lil babies are on like week 4 but have been going pretty slow. Its ok cuz they still get to veg 2 to 3 more weeks. but these leaves. I dont know what the problem is. Heres the breakdown.
5x5 tent
400w MH
5gallon bucket cap ebb and flow.
Gen Hydro Flora Series nutes. Lucas Formula, since im a noob it makes it easy. And i tested the whole line vs lucas and lucas one looks better. I also really have no idea besides looking at a chart all those different things to add and how much at what time. So I felt like i was EFFING them up..
ph between 5.8-6.2 trying to stay in that range.
This last res change was 3ml micro, 6ml bloom, 1ml rapid start, 1ml h2o2. per gallon, and theres 40 gallons in the res. came out to about 550ppm
Exhaust pulling thru the light and out the house.
two oscilating fans inside tent.
They get fed 3 times a day.

I could deffinetely be forgetting something, if you see im missing something you may need to know please ask. THANK YOU!!

What are your temps? and Relative Humidity level?

Here i found this on RIU from a thread in 2011

[FONT=&amp]Solving marijuana Plan Leaf Curl/Cupping Problems[/FONT]

[FONT=&amp]OK rule number #1 when you see this happening is flush with 25% nutrients; use 2 to 3 times the pot size to do this. Flushing means lots of run-off. You use 25% because some elements are not mobile without other elements, so if you have a mag lock up flushing with water won't get the mag out, as it needs nitrogen to be mobile. Your killing your plants with kindness remember they are weeds. Here are more answers for you, you might want to save it for reference later The only time you don't use rule #1 is in the last 2 weeks of flower when bottom leaves stop being used for photosynthesis.[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]Unless another marijuana grower inspects the damage a true assessment might not be possible. It's hard to tell "exactly" what the culprit is. Unfortunately the “solution” the marijuana grower chooses many times is not the right one.[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]A misdiagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline.[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the marijuana grower.[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.[/FONT]

1. [FONT=&amp]Too much marijuana fertilizer[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
   The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigour and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
   A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. [/FONT]
2. [FONT=&amp]High Heat[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
   The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf desiccation or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.[/FONT]
3. [FONT=&amp]Too much light[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
   Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.[/FONT]
4. [FONT=&amp]Over Watering[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
   For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.[/FONT]
5. [FONT=&amp]Not Enough Water[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
   Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.[/FONT]

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Hey, I haven't done a Hydro grow in a while and I don't particularly care for it. However those leafs with their side turned up, or the ones with yellow sports/discoloration, are good indication of NUTE BURN. Your ppm doesn't look too high( Low for soil grow anyways) but I'd still cut down on nutes some more till plants perk back up. Also your plants don't look too small or bad for 3 weeks old, especially since yours look like their from seeds. Cut back on Nutes, control the temp and humidity and they should jump back to normal health. BTW B sure to have fresh air puled in.

Be sure that your PPM tool is correctly calibrated.

Room temp stays about 75-78 lights on. RH is about 60-70% ill confirm.. I do calibrate the pen ever week or two.
@ sheldon, they are actually cuttings. Not seeds. I dunno tho, I cloned them in RW in a aero cloner. Ill just be putting the cutting in without RW in the future. The ones the DIDNT root, I pulled them out of the RW and they were just ROTTEN.. it was gross. so id otn know if they were somehow stunted or what. I mean for the most part they look pretty good.

Question, How far away from the canopy you think I should keep the 400w MH?