I am out of ideas. Every harvest yellow.

J

Jamesmaine

New Member
image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpg A couple of years ago when I started i was growing in a tent. Two lights, dehu, aptus with heavy 16 base, fans, and a co2 bag. I stopped for a little while then ended up building a room. It is now 10x12 and has 4K, some what air cooled, 24k btu mini split, c.a.p. Greenhouse control and a bigger dehu.

My temps at the canopy stay at 78 and the humidity between 45-50.

I am now using heavy 16s full line.

Every harvest I've had has started to yellow badly at week 4 or so. I still get good yields but the plants are near dead in the end and some fail to ripen fully.

I used to have the pots of coco on the ground. I know this is wrong they are now raised off the ground. I thought this was going to be my problem as well and not having enough run off. I even convinced myself it fixed it but now it's happening again.

Then I found out the foliar part of the heavy line was very important so I started using it as directed (spray every three days).

My ph is always 5.6-5.85

Until yesterday I was using co2 at about 1200 ppm. But this week my control crapped out and always reads 20 or less so it was dumping co2 into the room. I know this can cause a plant to have big issues. I'm going to get a new controller today but this is a new problem and the yellowing has happened every harvest for the last five or so.

Last time I had super silver haze, head band, and mob. The ssh got it the worse. It seeded and one plant never ripened before dieing off. This time I have mob and ssh. The mob isn't perfect but I have no complaints. The ssh is getting bad again. My tallest plant is 78 degrees with my infared therm so I don't think heat is an issue. I also have the lights higher than they were in the pics just in case.

I've uploaded some photos. Any help would be great. I've spent countless hours researching this over the last year and need help.
Some are before they got yellow.

Thanks
 
do you check your ph after you add the heavy 16 ? I am not a fan of heavy 16 used it . noticed the pc spiked very high after it sat in the water for a couple days strange it usually changes instantly but I was having an issue ph lock and heavy 16 was the cause . I don't check ph every time I water if the water was already checked . idk if it was a fluke or not . I moved on to my own home made nutrients and mix them into the water then check ph and it does not spike days later .
 
Jamesmaine said:
View attachment 3564772 View attachment 3564773 View attachment 3564774 View attachment 3564775 View attachment 3564776 View attachment 3564778 View attachment 3564779 View attachment 3564780 A couple of years ago when I started i was growing in a tent. Two lights, dehu, aptus with heavy 16 base, fans, and a co2 bag. I stopped for a little while then ended up building a room. It is now 10x12 and has 4K, some what air cooled, 24k btu mini split, c.a.p. Greenhouse control and a bigger dehu.

My temps at the canopy stay at 78 and the humidity between 45-50.

I am now using heavy 16s full line.

Every harvest I've had has started to yellow badly at week 4 or so. I still get good yields but the plants are near dead in the end and some fail to ripen fully.

I used to have the pots of coco on the ground. I know this is wrong they are now raised off the ground. I thought this was going to be my problem as well and not having enough run off. I even convinced myself it fixed it but now it's happening again.

Then I found out the foliar part of the heavy line was very important so I started using it as directed (spray every three days).

My ph is always 5.6-5.85

Until yesterday I was using co2 at about 1200 ppm. But this week my control crapped out and always reads 20 or less so it was dumping co2 into the room. I know this can cause a plant to have big issues. I'm going to get a new controller today but this is a new problem and the yellowing has happened every harvest for the last five or so.

Last time I had super silver haze, head band, and mob. The ssh got it the worse. It seeded and one plant never ripened before dieing off. This time I have mob and ssh. The mob isn't perfect but I have no complaints. The ssh is getting bad again. My tallest plant is 78 degrees with my infared therm so I don't think heat is an issue. I also have the lights higher than they were in the pics just in case.

I've uploaded some photos. Any help would be great. I've spent countless hours researching this over the last year and need help.
Some are before they got yellow.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Do you measure the EC/PPM of your feeds? I do and out of curiosity I mixed as gallon of feed according to the directions for vegging. It measured a whopping 2.4 EC or around 1200PPM. That would cause a myriad of problems for nearly anyone. And that was in RO water with a starting EC of 0.4.
 
I don't have a ppm meter. Sounds like I should get one. I have friends that use heavys full line with no ill effects and their set ups are fairly "ghetto". I don't ever check the ph of my run off but i mix 25 gallons, ph, then use it all. It doesn't sit very long if at all. Then i vacuum up all standing water to remove it from the room. Thanks for the replies!
 
I see one problem right off......

You set your pH to low to start. Your blocking or reducing Mg and P uptake.......If you pH the run off right at watering does it drop from the watering value? If so you might consider watering with a higher pH value too.......Your pics show BAD Ca lockout with moderate Mg and P - That says 2 things - pH and salt build up
Hydro and it's soil-less companions have always done the best for me If I pH'ed to 5.8 and let it rise to 6+ and reset it. In your case with what you show,,,,I might set my base at 5.9 - 6.0 and if you see improvement on the next run but, still get some,,but less then before.....


You need to keep in mind that you also should not really start any bloom nutrient till 2 weeks after the flip......Early P rise will make the above problem worse faster......The plant stores P and will overload fast. The use of Si helps regulate P uptake in a good way.

The other thing that lights up my mind is that you may not be doing a "salt flush" every cpl of weeks as your in Coco and that gets a build up and should be "leeched" every few weeks to stop lockouts.......This may be it along with the pH as to the pics you supplied....

Harley has the other biggie I see......Your running too hot too early!
 
I thought that the leaves turn just like in the fall season. The plant is pumping the buds. Love the Bowl full of buds. Looks great. The edge burn could be ferts. Last few weeks you use straight water or mollases. I also like Guave syrup. I started giving that and she started making crazy glue sticky. Don't give up. Your nuggs look good. Thats what its all about right? If theres a mistake that was made it would be such a small one. Wishing you more nuggs.
 
9leaves said:
I thought that the leaves turn just like in the fall season. The plant is pumping the buds. Love the Bowl full of buds. Looks great. The edge burn could be ferts. Last few weeks you use straight water or mollases. I also like Guave syrup. I started giving that and she started making crazy glue sticky. Don't give up. Your nuggs look good. Thats what its all about right? If theres a mistake that was made it would be such a small one. Wishing you more nuggs.
Click to expand...

No, the plant should stay for the most part - nice and green start to finish,,,unless natural color is expressed by the plant like purps to reds and oranges..

WRONG on the red highlighted part!

The final flush is a myth - why remove nutrition at one of the plants most critical times? - The Bulking Phase!

You also do NOT put molasses in hydro operations! Fermentation.....
 
I'll have to check my run off ph. I don't start flower nutes till I see buds form which is typically about two weeks in. I flipped 6 weeks ago today but I am on week four nutes. I use heavy 16s feed schedule just like I used to use aptus' schedule. My plants get their calmag from the heavy 16 foliar from what I understand.
 
This is my first time adjusting ph. It did the same thing before I touched it. water off of the tap is typically 6.8-7 but I had the same issue. Ahhhh
 
I think you're overfeeding, ending up with too much salts in the end.

I don't ph my nutrients, but I don't use "calmag," I don't overfeed (much), so there's not a lot of ions to pull the soil's pH. I use a light soil (60% Pro-Mix HP, 20% Kellogg Patio Plus, 20% Perlite. And, 1.25 Tbsp/gal dolomite). That might affect my ability to not ph.

Have you thought about changing your medium? I get the impression coco is a challenge (I see people having issues. I've seen coco-specific "lineups" -- but, that could be a way to sell more boutique products).
 
Jamesmaine said:
I don't have a ppm meter. Sounds like I should get one. I have friends that use heavys full line with no ill effects and their set ups are fairly "ghetto". I don't ever check the ph of my run off but i mix 25 gallons, ph, then use it all. It doesn't sit very long if at all. Then i vacuum up all standing water to remove it from the room. Thanks for the replies!
Click to expand...
 
Get a tds or ec pen. That will solve ALOT of your problems. Trust me. I think your feeding them a very high ec. Since you said ssh. That gal doesnt need a strong feed at all. No haze does in my experience. Drop the high dollar Heavy 16 and get something basic. Get a blue lab ec meter. Stick to a very simple base nutrient. Flora Duo or something along those lines. Then run your system and try to keep ec below 2.0. Actually try and keep it below 1.8. Manage your pH around 5.8. to 6.2. Let it drift if it wants to. Then post back with your results.
 
Coco coir can be a challenge to growers not used to it. It truly does have its own unique properties. When i first used it my results were laughable at best. This was years ago. Now i cant see myself using any other medium short of rockwool slabs same method.....drip to waste.
 
I don't have a system. I mix and water by hand. I don't know enough about nutrients or what the plants truly need to drop a full line of nute.
 
Jamesmaine said:
I don't have a system. I mix and water by hand. I don't know enough about nutrients or what the plants truly need to drop a full line of nute.
Click to expand...

It's pretty easy. NPK ratio between 1-1-1 to 3-1-2 in veg. 1-1-1 to 1-3-2 in flower. That's a ratio. So, a 16-16-16 fertilizer is 1-1-1.

I made a spreadsheet to unwind boutique multi-bottle "lineups" into these basic terms. You can enter the products you use, and how much you use in the various stages of growth. That will at least inform you what you're actually doing. Then you can compare other products, or fine tune what you're using.

That's how I got to my own system (focusing on NPK, not a "lineup"). It's fun. It opens up a new world of growing. Instead of Cha-Ching this and Dirty Sanchez that, you're reading your plants.
 
I hate to do this but I will . If your not using organic nutrients you need to run fresh ph water the last 7 days to get those nasty tasting nutrients out . please before you post he does not need to flush make sure you tell him only if hes using a good organic not a chemical fertilizer, if you don't flush that heavy 16 out. once I have used you will taste that nasty stuff in your smoke and donte ver plan on getting it tested from iron labs it will fail ! my opinion . and its correct from my experience . sorry to make this thread into a flush thread .
 
the heavy 16 is expose to be organic . I had an issue in the final weeks did not flush could not flush . and yes tasted the heavy 16 in the dry product . for got to post that above
 
I water the ssh ones with 5.6-5.8 ph water. This is is in cyco coco. The "run off" was 410ppm and my ph was 6.5 according to what I understand.
 

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