HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%: " Naturally - no chemicals"

G

Ganjuana

Member
calibuzz said:
There is truth to a tobacco wash. Yet in my studies I have found tobacco simply an additive to other organic washes. Bugs can overdose on nicotine, but getting the critters to smoke a pack is a whole nuther can of soup, as they are usually underage ;) lol!
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Lol, well I sure wouldn't be giving those little guys a smoke. I figure you just douse the spray on, if you get a bad infestation and you'll force em to drink some of it eventually.

Cigars have a TON of nocotine in them too. I mean you can smoke some cigars and it feels like you drank a full pot of coffee. The tobacco leaves are so rich and pure compared to cigarettes and other washed out chemical tobaccos.
 
G

Ganjuana

Member
Yea real cigars are made with 100% pure soil grown tobacco. You can tell it in the taste too... completely different taste than cigarettes. They are not washed out with chemicals and the shit they put in cigarettes/gas-station-cigars.

It would basically be a 100% nicotine/water misting on your plant, which may hurt taste but shouldn't do any other damage. Nicotine is mother natures pesticide, so I figure it couldn't hurt to us it as such, even if it doesn't occur in Marijuana naturally.
 
C

Cannabisculture

Active Member
calibuzz said:
QUICK NOTES:

Pre med in Biology, UCLA. AA in criminal justice, BA in green sustainable management, pre-law at Pepperdine.

I might suggest that the eggs are not absorbing curative and changing to meet the threat epigenomically, but they were destined to hatch by virtue of stronger natural resistance in mite or egg casing.

If you are going all the way in MB, then you'll be teaching me someday. Keep it up young man! Good. Never stop learning!!!

You will discover little or no taste difference at all. Make sure YOU WASH AND RINSE AND DRY FLOWERS 8 hours after spraying, use CLEAN WATER!!

Dude. lady bugs are way cool, but they are typically overtaxed for the job. Mantices are good for larger bugs like aphids but only larger mites are prey, not so good. Yep, you can crush em with the finger, but what a chore. I'm glad to see you are up to it and keeping it under control. Dude, after the caliclean you should get to a point where you never see a web again - ever!!!

Keep your environment very cold for a few days! 68 degrees. Mites hate cold!

Stay on top of it. I know you shall suceed, you have the right stuff and attitude.

Buuya!

Peace,

calibuzz
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Nice! I thought about going into law just for the learning experience but biology is the field for me.

I see what you are saying with the natural resistance. Understanding these things aids my future prevention, so as of now you are the teacher! don't get comfy.... haha :P

I think what ill do is spray at lights out and let it chill overnight, then when the lights turn on ill rinse&dry my flowers. How many weeks up to harvest do you personally spray?

Ladybugs are awesome and fun to chill with when gardening but i just don't see them eating as much as i'd like. Maybe once i get these mites more under control ill release more but until then it worthless keeping them alive and i assume they will also die from the Caliclean.(correct me if I'm wrong)\

My day temp gradient is 73-77 and 58-65 at night so do you think i should set it to 68 during the day while treating?

Thanks for the encouragement man!:hump:
"If i am to see further, than it is by standing upon the shoulders of giants"
one of my favorite quotes that couldn't be more true.

-CC
 
del66666

del66666

Well-Known Member
calibuzz said:
Thank you very much for your valuable and experienced input. Neem is a viable alternative for some.

Yes. I have given up smoking cigs., also good advice. Long term Clinical Reseach appears to indicate there is no clinal evidence linking cannibus smoking to lung cancer, though smoking cannibus may exacerbate pre-existing emphizyma.

At HEMPCON Los Angeles this year, I got a swell recipe for cannibus oil that I'm now using. I'll post the recipe in another area. Yes, one can spoon thier medicine as well, and I still don't want reduced neem oil residue in my oral medication either. But each to their own. I do respect your option as a grower of medical cannibus to use any preventitive application you see fit for you and your co-op patients to consume - if they are told what's in their medication.

I honor my responsibilty to my consituents: "To fully disclose what my medicine cantains and how my cannibus is grown." I wish to help and cure, through utilizing pure reliable methods and additives which promote untarnished ingestion of Tetrahydrocannabinol and its ancillary benificail molecules - related to individual cannibus therapy.

Thanks for you advice and feedback,

Peace,

calibuzz
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please dont kid yourself ,of course smoking cannabis can cause cancer ....cannabis contains tar which is the cancer causing element........i vape and gave up smoking all plant life years ago....
 
virulient

virulient

Active Member
del66666 said:
please dont kid yourself ,of course smoking cannabis can cause cancer ....cannabis contains tar which is the cancer causing element........i vape and gave up smoking all plant life years ago....
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My grandfather smoked his entire life. He died last year at 86 years old. Got hit by a bus.
 
mak

mak

Active Member
damn i look through 10 pages to see who has tried the pepper spray and if it worked for them,
but all i read was the same idiots crying. these are the same idiots who are in the other threads,
fighting with each other,about the same products lmfao..

then the mighty wash kid says he will not say another word but says many posts after =p..

and the strip kid thinks his solution will work for everyone,when he prolly has 1-5 plants in a small area. and no i dont care to check your journals.
 
calibuzz

calibuzz

Member
Cannabisculture said:
Nice! I thought about going into law just for the learning experience but biology is the field for me.

I see what you are saying with the natural resistance. Understanding these things aids my future prevention, so as of now you are the teacher! don't get comfy.... haha :P

I think what ill do is spray at lights out and let it chill overnight, then when the lights turn on ill rinse&dry my flowers. How many weeks up to harvest do you personally spray?

Ladybugs are awesome and fun to chill with when gardening but i just don't see them eating as much as i'd like. Maybe once i get these mites more under control ill release more but until then it worthless keeping them alive and i assume they will also die from the Caliclean.(correct me if I'm wrong)\

My day temp gradient is 73-77 and 58-65 at night so do you think i should set it to 68 during the day while treating?

Thanks for the encouragement man!:hump:
"If i am to see further, than it is by standing upon the shoulders of giants"
one of my favorite quotes that couldn't be more true.

-CC
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QUICK NOTES:

I study all the time. I am scientifically trianed. I experiment continuously. I breed and clone. I have grown out doors and indoors. My first bumper crop was when I was 17 years old - 30 years ago(when good opiated Thai-stick was common in California. I have been doing this jazz a while).

Know the law. It shall empower and protect you.

The best time to spray is during the Light Cycle early. Not overnight. The cleaner should go on and evaporate quickly, and the fans and direct light help dry the leaves. As the spray drys on the leaves the solution concentrates. As you are supposed to wash your leaves (during either an 18 hour light cycle vegitative, or 12 hour light cycle flowering, you want your leaves dry by the time the lights and heat go out. All experienced growers know that wet leaves in the dark may be hit by mold. DO NOT COMPOUND YOU PROBLEMS with weak plants that are subseptible to illness.

Think of your plant as a dog that has a terminal case of fleas. The fleas suck so much blood that even a minor illness in another area can kill the host. Your plants have open sores where the mites have fed. The day after the spray is for leaf healing, allowing the wounds to close. BEWARE.

Caliclean will harm your precious ladybugs. Do not release the beetles till you have control - a few mites only - if any.


Your temps. seem nominal. However, the colder the better. 68 is the low end of the gradient, where growth is still viable but slow. In a sence you are putting your plants in a micro hibernation cycle, while they heal. Mites are like lizards, temp contols their activity. If they don't move fast they are eaiser to get - and can't run and hide in the leaf buds and inside the flowers - stuck in the proverbial tar pit of pepper spray.

Yes "Piggmies on the shoulders of giants..." is one of my favorite Einstien quotes. Here is another good one: "God does not play dice." Thus, neither should you trust luck to cure your plants. Use scientific affirmative action. Use the Universal laws and physics to treat your plant "matter."

One may use caliclean right up to the day before harvest; just rinse well and dry. Though if you catch them a week before harvest (god forbid) you should not have to spray at all at harvest. Now that you've had mites you know how to deal with them the next growth cycle and to keep you kids clean before flowering. CALICLEANER works best during the vegitative state and should be used prior to the flowering cycle to assure that no mite will move in on the new growth, when and where they are harder to treat.

Peace,

calibuzz
 
calibuzz

calibuzz

Member
mak said:
damn i look through 10 pages to see who has tried the pepper spray and if it worked for them,
but all i read was the same idiots crying. these are the same idiots who are in the other threads,
fighting with each other,about the same products lmfao..

then the mighty wash kid says he will not say another word but says many posts after =p..

and the strip kid thinks his solution will work for everyone,when he prolly has 1-5 plants in a small area. and no i dont care to check your journals.
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Dear Mak,

I feel you. As a musicain I learned one thing for sure..."You can't choose your audience." ;)

Sorry for the BS here, but if you dig deeper, perhaps you shall discover the more helpful and scientific aspects of this thread and some helpful techniques. I wish I had a computerized eraser to edit or eliminate the noise, but everyone has a right to their opinion. Sigh....

Thank you for your input and feedback!

Peace be with you,

calibuzz
 
mak

mak

Active Member
virulient said:
I like how your post was productive. I also like how it pertained to the subject at hand......jackass.
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thanks,i like how your posts are so pointless that when you write 50 sentences compiled into one paragraph i dont even need to read it.

anyways,i used some azamax that i already had and it didnt seem to affect anything so im going to buy the mighty wash from a local shop.

also i used panheads method,i have fans giving a pretty good output of wind but its still not good enough..

so i guess mighty wash is my last resort,i have to buy the product while i have a product already.which sucks.

so the best bet is to give each plant 1 on 1 time even if its a bit of process..but higher success rate.

spraying it down with mighty wash and rubbing the eggs off each leaf sounds good to me.


though im going to give it a few days n see what happens before i buy mighty wash and also repeat the process.
 
T

TheLastWood

Well-Known Member
Wow so many haters.

Don't you know how to read something and if you don't like it then PASS IT UP. Not argue for 11 pages.

And virulewhatever is saying he has the right to ruin this thread because "this method is too hard". You must be mentally handicapped if simmering peppers for 10 mins is too hard. Obviously your a child who has never even cooked for yourself.

GOOD INFO OP. Nice all natural solution for people that need it! and yes all the other chems will work, but do you want to spray your plants in flower or until they burn to death?

Maybe that's these punks problems, smoking to much chemicals.

P.s. if you don't let your dirty ass cats n dogs in with your plants and in your bed you might not have mites, and fleas.
 
virulient

virulient

Active Member
TheLastWood said:
Wow so many haters.

Don't you know how to read something and if you don't like it then PASS IT UP. Not argue for 11 pages.

And virulewhatever is saying he has the right to ruin this thread because "this method is too hard". You must be mentally handicapped if simmering peppers for 10 mins is too hard. Obviously your a child who has never even cooked for yourself.

GOOD INFO OP. Nice all natural solution for people that need it! and yes all the other chems will work, but do you want to spray your plants in flower or until they burn to death?

Maybe that's these punks problems, smoking to much chemicals.

P.s. if you don't let your dirty ass cats n dogs in with your plants and in your bed you might not have mites, and fleas.
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I don't have mites. I used a no pest strip. See how that works? Kitty is free to roam where she pleases.

The rest of your post wasn't worth responding to. Childish name calling, etc... I'm not 12 anymore. Me Big Boy!
 
thc&me

thc&me

Active Member
Vegetable-based horticultural oil works best. It's every bit as effective as neem oil, yet it's cheaper, non-systemic and practically odorless. Pepper sprays work well to control pests, but it's nasty to work with and can't be sprayed during flowering. A few applications of a highly refined horticultural oil and you'll be rid of mites for good. However, stay away from petroleum based oils and never spray your plants under lights or you'll cook them.
 
del66666

del66666

Well-Known Member
thc&me said:
Vegetable-based horticultural oil works best. It's every bit as effective as neem oil, yet it's cheaper, non-systemic and practically odorless. Pepper sprays work well to control pests, but it's nasty to work with and can't be sprayed during flowering. A few applications of a highly refined horticultural oil and you'll be rid of mites for good. However, stay away from petroleum based oils and never spray your plants under lights or you'll cook them.
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your wrong mate it isnt as effective as neem..........neem has long term effect on insects...............messes with their hormones and makes the plant taste bad..........horticultural oil is good but only on first contact.....
 
cues

cues

Well-Known Member
I used to use a commercial nicotine insecticide (in conjunction with Encarsia formosa) when I looked after some commercial greenhouses. Now I doubt it's effectiveness as my tobacco plants are covered in whitefly and aphids!
 
calibuzz

calibuzz

Member
mak said:
thanks,i like how your posts are so pointless that when you write 50 sentences compiled into one paragraph i dont even need to read it.

anyways,i used some azamax that i already had and it didnt seem to affect anything so im going to buy the mighty wash from a local shop.

also i used panheads method,i have fans giving a pretty good output of wind but its still not good enough..

so i guess mighty wash is my last resort,i have to buy the product while i have a product already.which sucks.

so the best bet is to give each plant 1 on 1 time even if its a bit of process..but higher success rate.

spraying it down with mighty wash and rubbing the eggs off each leaf sounds good to me.


though im going to give it a few days n see what happens before i buy mighty wash and also repeat the process.
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QUICK NOTES:

Mak has made some wise notations. Use what works for you.

Maks comment on 1 on 1 Time is probably the most important!

Growing Medical Cannibus is a part time job, and if one has overlooked a mite problem to the point that one notices the damage, then the problem is advanced. When we cut our selves it takes a long time to heal. The same with plants. Mite eggs you miss will hatch and the process will start all over again.

Yes! the more 1 on 1 time you spend with each plants the better your results.

And please Mak, try to let others off-topic comments go; we are trying to keep it real, to help others. Our noble goal sir.

Peace!

calibuzz
 
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