How To Deal With Beetle Stem Borers?

markexpress

Active Member
Posted this in Outdoor, no replies. Hopefully you guys can help.

In my area, I have some serious pests that I deal with, the worst one is the beetle borer. See pictures attached. I need some help/advice in dealing with this nemesis.

First of, here a description of the pest and what it does. Starting with second or third week of June, these small worms appear that are looking for a plant host. Once it finds the plant it likes, it will climb the stem - first it will climb all the way up and then back down - to assess the size of the plant and the stem width. If the stem is too small or too hardy it will leave. Otherwise, once the worm determines the height of the plant it will then borrow a hole inside the stem about half-way up, and the worm then proceeds with eating the inside of the stem - ALWAYS going up the plant stem first and then after the stem becomes too thin on the top, it goes down the plant. Once the worm reaches the bottom, it migrates to some part of the stem where it awaits for the plant to grow more and then burrows inside the side branches stems. As a result, the centre of the stem becomes hollow, and some plants can even collapse or die. Typically the worm enters in the middle of the plant. Often more than one worm can enter the same plant during the season. The time frame for the worm's burrowing activity is early-mid June to the end of July. After which time the worm lays eggs inside the stem and transforms first into a fat black grub-like creature, then eventually becoming a small black beetle. Sometime in early August the beetle makes an exit hole and leaves the plant, until the next year. All this information is based from my observations, none of it is made up and nothing is assumed.

So why do these worms/beetles target cannabis plants? Well, I found out why this past summer. Turns out there is a species of native weeds that are endemic to this part of Ontario (don't ask which part), which the beetles typically target. The weed's stem is almost exactly the same, both on appearance and inside. I found the same holes and same results inside. EXCEPT, those weeds are dealing fine with these intruders and the weeds dont collapse or die.

I tried some sprays, powder and pellets to no success against this smart pest. I tried applying stuff to the bottom of the stem, around the stem, and to a certain degree they repel this pest but eventually the beetle worm finds its way up the plant sometimes. On average I end up having 40-60% of my small number of plants infected with this bug. The ONLY thing that had some level of success was using Bonide Annual Tree and Shrub Insect Control (see Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Annual-Insect-Control-Gallon/dp/B002ITL19A/ ). Its very effective for the roots. At the end of the season I pulled out the plants, and the ones I applied that chemical to had ZERO creatures of any kind in the roots. Just soil. Not even one soil worm. Have not noticed the effect on the smoke (I never smoked a bud in my life, just taking my customer's word for it). The problem is that its a chemical that it taken up by the roots of the plant, and takes at least 1-2 weeks to take effect for the stems and the leaves. Sometimes I noticed the bugs attempted to burrow inside the stem, only to abandon their attempt and leave. Victory. I saw the partial entrance holes, proving that this chemical had some effect. Sometimes the results were not-so-good, and actually did more damage: the worm burrowed its way in, only to die inside the stem a few inches into its climb. The plant's stem then collapses at that point where the bug died - typically half-way or two-thirds of the way up.

So how does this bug affect the plant? Well, munching the centre of the inner stem does not often kill the plant (only about 25% of plants die), but it causes long-term damage. The plants end up being shorter, with smaller buds and take longer time to finish flowering. Last year I had 8 of G13 Pineapple Express plants. Four were infected, two died from half-way up (ended up branching out and getting only half the yield of other plants), while the other two infected plants didn't show signs of problems until in mid September, when I harvested the other plants but these two took an extra two weeks to flower and the buds were a bit smaller - but smoke-wise it was just as good.

Anyways, if anyone can recommend me anything I would really appreciate it. This will be my last year doing a guerilla grow, from which point I will either retire from growing or get a license.

PICTURES of the beetle borer worm I took after dissecting the stem of an infected plant.
 

Attachments

Figong

Well-Known Member
You won't like my answer.. but it's best you destroy the plants that are swelling irregularly and bursting in spots.. the borer in question has potentially already laid eggs.. so killing the worm will just prolong the inevitable as the eggs will hatch, and they will spread to other plants and quite possibly wipe out your whole crop. As another tip, keep the weeds and grass trimmed for a small section around the plants in question - this will help a bit, but it's still possible this will be recurring.. based on the other types of plants/weeds/foliage in close proximity. If you'd rather not destroy your crops without a fight... operate on the stems -carefully- around any bulges and splits.. -gently- scrape any eggs out you find and destroy them with smashing. Pull out all worms you find and slice them parallel to their body, down the middle, and remove all pieces from the growing area. After you remove any eggs and worms found, get toothpicks and use 2 per stem, one on each side, use tape to patch, then bind the plant - hold on tight to see if it pulls through or ends up dead.

Good luck with this one,

Fi-
 

markexpress

Active Member
You won't like my answer.. but it's best you destroy the plants that are swelling irregularly and bursting in spots.. the borer in question has potentially already laid eggs.. so killing the worm will just prolong the inevitable as the eggs will hatch, and they will spread to other plants and quite possibly wipe out your whole crop. As another tip, keep the weeds and grass trimmed for a small section around the plants in question - this will help a bit, but it's still possible this will be recurring.. based on the other types of plants/weeds/foliage in close proximity. If you'd rather not destroy your crops without a fight... operate on the stems -carefully- around any bulges and splits.. -gently- scrape any eggs out you find and destroy them with smashing. Pull out all worms you find and slice them parallel to their body, down the middle, and remove all pieces from the growing area. After you remove any eggs and worms found, get toothpicks and use 2 per stem, one on each side, use tape to patch, then bind the plant - hold on tight to see if it pulls through or ends up dead.

Good luck with this one,

Fi-
Great post, man. Sounds like you have had this issue. Indeed, keeping the weeds low all around helps, but this worms can even travel across sand dunes! They are tough bugs. I honestly have often managed to save the infected plants - but I hated how it resulted in smaller buds (lower harvest) and extended flowering times.

Here's another thing that helped me, that I forgot to mention: daily inspection of plants is very important. If you can catch the worm in early stages of borrowing, you can actually force it out. If I realize that the plant has only been compromised hours earlier (first 4-6 hours after the worm climbs the plant are CRITICAL time to act) then I will find a thin long aluminum or metal string (or even a very sturdy thin grass stem) and gently slowly insert it into the hole. Slowly push up, to the point where it appears that it hit the limit and thats where the worm is. Gently poke back and forth. Remove the string. Wait up to a minute for the worm to exit. Kill the worm. Patch the hole carefully.

I am definitely not chopping any plants down this year, out of the question. I am buying a bunch of insect killing powder and will apply it to the perimeter of the plant (on soil), so this way the bug will have nothing to climb on. Keep the weeds trimmed around. Apply Bonide sparingly as a PREVENTATIVE soil drench about 1-2 weeks before the worms start to appear.
 

markexpress

Active Member
Hmmm..inject BTi into the hollow stem??:idea:
Injecting the plant is out of the question, unfortunately. It creates more wounds to the stem that can sometimes bring upon mold, bugs and disease later in the season. Worms either recover/survive, or they make escape holes and crash the plant.
 
Ya I have had the same experience with these damn thing and am also in Ontario. I have tried to research on how to prevent these things but there isn't much info on how to prevent until they have made there way inside the plant. Some old lads I've talked to have said to put ashes around the base of the plant like around the stalk, and I've also heard about wraping tin foil around the stalk at the bottom of your plant but have yet to try it out. But I am willing to give almost anything a shot this year after putting up with these things last grow season. If anyone else has any tips or info on how to prevent these things from even comming close to the plants please post it!!!!! Another idea I was trying to come up with is to make a device that will go around the bottom part of the stalk of the plant and have some kind of sticky substance on it so when they climb the plant they will get stuck to it and DIE!!!! Lol but ya if anyone has any ideas or have heard of anyway to prevent these things please post thanks.
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Great post, man. Sounds like you have had this issue. Indeed, keeping the weeds low all around helps, but this worms can even travel across sand dunes! They are tough bugs. I honestly have often managed to save the infected plants - but I hated how it resulted in smaller buds (lower harvest) and extended flowering times.

Here's another thing that helped me, that I forgot to mention: daily inspection of plants is very important. If you can catch the worm in early stages of borrowing, you can actually force it out. If I realize that the plant has only been compromised hours earlier (first 4-6 hours after the worm climbs the plant are CRITICAL time to act) then I will find a thin long aluminum or metal string (or even a very sturdy thin grass stem) and gently slowly insert it into the hole. Slowly push up, to the point where it appears that it hit the limit and thats where the worm is. Gently poke back and forth. Remove the string. Wait up to a minute for the worm to exit. Kill the worm. Patch the hole carefully.

I am definitely not chopping any plants down this year, out of the question. I am buying a bunch of insect killing powder and will apply it to the perimeter of the plant (on soil), so this way the bug will have nothing to climb on. Keep the weeds trimmed around. Apply Bonide sparingly as a PREVENTATIVE soil drench about 1-2 weeks before the worms start to appear.
It's key to control the larvae. While it's a worm/caterpillar. Sticky collars, diatomaceous earth and traps to control and kill. Once past larval stage their main threat is next year. Never dealt with these pests but lookin g it up provided this pic - and another poster the other day posted a pic of one of these things asking what it was.

g07152photo01.jpg

Also, from the old 60's organics crowd, does BT work on them? Bacillus thuringis? Harmless to humans and animals, it is a friendly microbe.
 

markexpress

Active Member
Ya I have had the same experience with these damn thing and am also in Ontario. I have tried to research on how to prevent these things but there isn't much info on how to prevent until they have made there way inside the plant. Some old lads I've talked to have said to put ashes around the base of the plant like around the stalk, and I've also heard about wraping tin foil around the stalk at the bottom of your plant but have yet to try it out. But I am willing to give almost anything a shot this year after putting up with these things last grow season. If anyone else has any tips or info on how to prevent these things from even comming close to the plants please post it!!!!! Another idea I was trying to come up with is to make a device that will go around the bottom part of the stalk of the plant and have some kind of sticky substance on it so when they climb the plant they will get stuck to it and DIE!!!! Lol but ya if anyone has any ideas or have heard of anyway to prevent these things please post thanks.
DO NOT apply any substances to the stem that will remain there. I have done that before to disastrous consequences - the stem will weaken and collapse/rot. Keep an eye for my journal that I will be doing this summer. I think that I may just have found a way to fight those bugs. If you have read my initial post then you'll get an idea, but I'll elaborate more in my journal.
 

markexpress

Active Member
It's key to control the larvae. While it's a worm/caterpillar. Sticky collars, diatomaceous earth and traps to control and kill. Once past larval stage their main threat is next year. Never dealt with these pests but lookin g it up provided this pic - and another poster the other day posted a pic of one of these things asking what it was.

View attachment 2551450

Also, from the old 60's organics crowd, does BT work on them? Bacillus thuringis? Harmless to humans and animals, it is a friendly microbe.
Well the problem is that these worm borers are away somewhere and can strike the plants at any time. The picture you posted is not the bug in question. It doesn't fly. Its a small black beetle that has the parasitic worm stage after it emerges from its winter/spring hibernation. I learned the hard way its entire life cycle. I haven't tried BT because I am having trouble finding it where I live. Also that means I will have to apply that spray on a daily basis, right? If it dries up or gets washed away by the rain then it loses its effect?
 
Sounds good Markexpress I don't wanna have to chop half my plant in half again this year also it is also not an option. I just hope we can find a way to deal with these pricks lol. Between those and the nice drought we had last year I am hoping that this summer will be a turn around from last summer. I have no problem bringing the babies water!!!! I just hope that together all of us can come up with an idea or a great product that will prevent them from even comming near our babies!!!! I also have a couple questions maybe you guys could help me with??? Do these pests hibernate in the soil over the winter?? Has anyone ever tried to put copper wire around the base of your plants???? I heard that on another thread for snails wondering if it might work for these too!!! And another thing are these thing beetles or catepillars?? I've also read other threads about moths laying eggs on plants and then the offspring which is a catepillar also doing the same thing that we are having a problem with. And the pest that's doing this to my babies are exactly the same as markexpress they are not like the pic harley has there they are black worms or catepillar looking things with a white or colored head can't remember!!! And I'm wondering would you think ladybugs or praying mantises might keep these pricks away possibly?? If anyone has any imput please feel free to answer or suggest something thanks
 

markexpress

Active Member
As I said, I have a small operation, mostly for personal and my medical card holding clients. I cannot afford to chop down anything.

Sounds good Markexpress I don't wanna have to chop half my plant in half again this year also it is also not an option. I just hope we can find a way to deal with these pricks lol. Between those and the nice drought we had last year I am hoping that this summer will be a turn around from last summer. I have no problem bringing the babies water!!!! I just hope that together all of us can come up with an idea or a great product that will prevent them from even comming near our babies!!!! I also have a couple questions maybe you guys could help me with??? Do these pests hibernate in the soil over the winter?? Has anyone ever tried to put copper wire around the base of your plants???? I heard that on another thread for snails wondering if it might work for these too!!! And another thing are these thing beetles or catepillars?? I've also read other threads about moths laying eggs on plants and then the offspring which is a catepillar also doing the same thing that we are having a problem with. And the pest that's doing this to my babies are exactly the same as markexpress they are not like the pic harley has there they are black worms or catepillar looking things with a white or colored head can't remember!!! And I'm wondering would you think ladybugs or praying mantises might keep these pricks away possibly?? If anyone has any imput please feel free to answer or suggest something thanks
Yes those tiny black beatles hide in the ground for the winter. They turn to grubs for the winter and emerge as worms. Copper wire, ashes, and any physical barriers will NOT work. These worms can also enter the stem of the plant through the soil. Yes, thats right - I witnessed that with one plant last year. So then here's my advice.

I already have experience dealing with these bugs, and very certain that my methods will work this year. Let me summarize what I will do:

1. My 3-7 specially selected ladies will be transplanted outdoors by the first week of June, after 1-2 months of vegetative state indoors.
2. During the first week I will give them Rhizotonic to quickly boost their adjustment to the outdoor environment.
3. During Week #2 (this process MUST be started no later than June 7th - worms start appearing around June 15-20 or earlier, depending on your area), after you notice that your ladies have adjusted to outdoors and STARTED to grow, I will RIGHT AWAY give each plant SOIL/ROOT waterings TWICE with Bonide Annual Tree and Shrub Insect Control (3-4 days apart), along with weak dose of nutrients and more Rhizotonic. The reason why this product has to be applied so early is that its systemic and takes quite some time for entire plant to receive it.
4. Starting with June 12th or so, I will be spraying the SHIT out of the surrounding areas around my ladies, but NOT the ladies themselves with heavy duty Bonide insect killing sprays (and/or other products that are chemicals). The ladies may receive some Neem oil sprays or oil organic sprays if there is damage from insects. I ALWAYS rotate sprays to make sure that bugs don't get adjusted to the repellents. Also, I will be sprinkling Bonide Products Eight Garden Dust to the perimeter circle all around my ladies OUTSIDE the nutrient/watering area of the roots. Its green in colour and therefore will not stand out to the eye. I will be applying it weekly and any crawling motherfucker will die. I know some beneficial insects may die, but last year they didn't help at all. Sorry. ALSO - I will be making sure that NO branches, grasses or other weeds will be TOUCHING my ladies in any way possible, to prevent and of those crawlers damaging my ladies.

From last year's experience in preparing for this year, I am very confident (80% certainty) that these measures will ensure that my losses due to bugs will be 5-10% at the most.

I meant inject BTi into its entrance hole.
I will do my best to ensure that there will be no holes this year :) See above. I believe that once the worm in comfortable inside the plant, its almost impossible to get it out without causing heavy damage to the plant. As I said earlier, these worms climb up first (always!), so injecting BTi will not help (it will drip down), and my attempts to inject liquids into stems last year were futile in results. Worm must be removed from the plant within the first 2-4 hours after it entered the hole (using a thin long grass or wire), by entering a thin long durable object inside and gently pressing it until it reaches the end. Then remove it, repeat if necessary after a 2 minute wait. If the worm has not been in the hole for more than 2-4 hours, it climbs out. The longer it spends inside, the less likely it will come out.

Also, waterings and spraying is best done in the evening around sunset or later. This way they don't dry up and are effective for the night. Insect killing dust can be applied in the morning/day, as it doesn't lose its potency for a while - make sure you replace it after rains.

Remember, these stem borers are active at ALL times of the day and night. I've seen them in action in the morning, during the day, and yes even at night. They are very patient, persuasive and will keep trying to find a host plant. What makes them so damn tough is that I could not find effective physical barriers to stop them. Beetle killing chemicals is the only way, unfortunately. Do not let the worms find a way to climb up your plants!
 

markexpress

Active Member
If all goes well with my project, I will post updates to this thread, so please subscribe and wait for updates. Wish me luck, guys!
 

markexpress

Active Member
Warning, guys!!! The borers are starting to come out of soil this week in Ontario, and probably already done so south of the border. Here are the main ones that pose threat to the ladies:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_Corn_Borer (and just the corn borer varieties, most dangerous of them all is Common Stalk Borer
)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corn_earworm_moth
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_corn_rootworm

They tend to be present in areas that have corn fields nearby (or in corn fields directly), but tend to spread around and will infect any plants that have similar characteristics. These bugs mostly operate at night, and many of the chemicals lose potency during the day, so it is highly recommended that maintenance work is done every evening, and check-ups are done every morning to see if any bugs have breached the defenses. If you manage to catch the bug early in its burrowing then it is possible to get it out without damaging the plant.

What I will be doing:

1. I will make sure that no part of other plants/trees are touching my plants. This decreases the vectors of access to your valuable crops by bugs.

2. Applying Bonide 786 Eight Insect Control Garden Dust Pest Control (powder) around the perimeter of all my garden plants but outside of watering area. Even tomatoes (to deal with round-horn worm).

3. Give two applications of Bonide's Annual Tree & Shrub Insect Control that will give plants systemic protection against the borers and other harmful damaging insects. Must be applied 1-2 weeks beforehand for the effect to take place (it takes time for the chemical to spread around the whole plant). It is very effective, for the roots AND the stems/leaves.

4. The ONLY spray that I will apply on leaves is neem and/or Safer Brand Caterpillar Killer Concentrate. Must be done only in extreme situations, as spraying the leaves with insecticides clogs the leaves pores and slows plants growth, so I highly recommend spraying the SHIT out of surrounding areas near the plants instead.

5. I am going a step further, and will wage a Vietnam-style all-out war against bugs by applying every day the Bonide's Eight Vegetable cocnentrate spray to ALL surfaces around all of my plants (BUT NOT applying ON my actual plants to avoid chemical clogging). I am not worrying about killing beneficial insects because this locations is extremely remote and devoid of bees and beneficial insects.

I am certain that these methods will work. I'll update later on how my methods are working.

This is what to look for, and kill right away, when it comes to borers - there are several different varieties in terms of colours but the shape is the same:





AND most importantly, this guy - Common Stalk Borer
:



Apparently they say there's nothing that can stop the Common Stalk Borer.

http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/info/insects/common-stalk-borer

The common stalk borer is a slender, purple and white striped caterpillar found tunneling inside the stems of a wide variety of plants. It is most commonly found inside the stalk of giant ragweed, but is of some importance as a pest of tomatoes, corn and other plants.
The stalk borer moth lays eggs in the fall on grasses and weeds. These eggs hatch very early in the spring and the larvae begin boring into the grasses. During mid to late June the larvae grow to be too large for the grass stems and they move to larger plant stems in the vicinity. The borers may remain in the stem of one plant, or they may again become too large for the stem they are in and move to another host.
By the time stalk borer injury is noticed, it is usually too late to save an infested plant. We do not have an effective control for borers that are inside of the stem. Plants can sometimes be saved by slicing open the stem and removing the borers by hand. Wilted plants should be considered as a source of additional borer problems and these should be removed and destroyed. Insecticide sprays or dusts used in the garden are not effective against this pest. The best suggestion is to keep weeds and tall grasses controlled and mowed around gardens and flowers, especially in the fall. This will help eliminate sites that are attractive to the adult moths and the young borers.
 

markexpress

Active Member
I am happy to report that I think I have found the cure for this awful pest. My initial approach failed to stop this Common Stem Borer pest, that was two weeks ago. I got 4 infections in the same night to kick off a day of hard work in order to change my strategy. Two plants totally collapsed at the entry hole (just above the first node) and had to be quickly amputated, and two are still standing (I chose against destroying the plants at personal risk of spreading the bug - apparently some strains are stronger at "handling" the borers than others), but they are fully quarantined with high dosage of pesticides in/on/around the plants. It is good to have a back up plan, after all! Now its been 11 days and not one new infection. Based on past years' experience, this has never happened before.

So here's the solution. Don't bother with applying all those pesticides around the perimeter of your plants/garden, its a waste of time - BT, permethrins, pyrethrins, etc. - they just dry up and dissipate quickly into the night/day. These borers are determined and strong pests, they will walk over it. Yes, combinations of ANY water-soluble sprays that you applied on or all around your precious garden will have no effect against these bugs. Only DIRECT contact will have an effect. Which is why I came up with this brilliant move.

In my stockpile of chemical weapons, I had a few bottles of GardenTech Worry Free Ready To Use Dust. Google it, its on sale at Walmart. Several types of borers are listed in small lettering in the back of the package - bingo. Water your plants in the evening. Light apply water to the bottom 6-12 inches of the main stem. Open the bottle and throw some of this dust ALL AROUND the stem. This way it leaves a residue on the stem, and some falls around. DO NOT apply any sticky substances or other chemicals to the stem - keep it as clean and as dry as possible - to avoid rotting and weakening it. You don't need to apply too much of that dust, but just enough that it will come in contact with ANYTHING that will try to crawl on the stem. Now make sure that there is absolutely NO OTHER WAY for the bugs to crawl up the plants - keep nearby grasses/bushes/trees low - these borers will keep attempting to find ways to climb the plant once it notes that it is suitable for boring into. The dust DOES NOT kill the borer immediately, but as it climbs a considerable amount of it will stick to its body. It will occasionally try to test the stem with its mouth - bingo (I observed all this, I caught 6 of these fuckers already). Thats when some of the dust will be digested by the borer. It will immediately abort the tunneling, the dust's immediate effects have kicked in. It will then crawl around, try boring in again, abort, or attempt to escape the plant. After an hour to four hours (on average), the borer will start going into seizures. It is typically dead after 8 hours, it starts shrinking after violent seizure-like episode that lasts hours. Eventually it just barely moves, and its done.

It is important that you check your garden EVERY DAY, in the morning and in the evening. Without exception, I caught all 6 of these guys (still alive) on stems or near plants, in the MORNING while doing my 9-10am check-up (I check my entire garden in full detail - every stem, leaf and branch). It is possible that they may not die right away. PS - re-apply the dust immediately after any rain/storm/wind that may wash the dust away. Borers are active until the end of July here in Canada, so take note of this.

Also - the dust killed a small borer bug baby (just finished the larvae stage, I guess) that emerged a week after infecting one of my plants. It was lying dead on one of the leaves. Good thing I applied Annual Tree And Shrub Insect Control with Systemaxx, and this magic dust that I mentioned. I dusted the SHIT out of the stem, the holes, and surrounding ground.

Why are Common Stem Borers present in your area? I did a full check-up of every stem of many grasses and weeds in the area, and found that this borer has little or nothing to do with corn. Instead, it is found in wild vegetation areas (untouched by humans) with tall weeds that have thick stems. I photographed three different species of target plants that these borers just love to go for. One of them is giant ragweed (took me some time to identify it). If you have this weed in your area, chances are the borer risk is high. DO NOT destroy this giant ragweed that has not been infected, use it to catch the borers and destroy them. Unless you're planning for your next year's garden. In that case, keep destroying any grasses/weeds with stems that are pinky-finger thick or more at their peak, as far as 1km all around. This will starve the borers of the host plants and keep their numbers low for next year. However, if you have a garden right now and choose to destroy those thick-stemmed weeds right now, you may be inviting trouble to your garden when these borers become desperate for host plants.


And most importantly, please post a reply and tell me how well did this method work for you.
 

JJ05

Well-Known Member
Jesus Christ brother! I JUST killed one of these in my plants today!!! I rammed a stick down there until the borer poked its head out, I tried to cut it with scissors cut he went back in...SOOO I kept on ramming the little piece of stick in there until I seen pieces of his body come out on it...needless to say I smashed him...in the stem...what do you think?
 

markexpress

Active Member
Jesus Christ brother! I JUST killed one of these in my plants today!!! I rammed a stick down there until the borer poked its head out, I tried to cut it with scissors cut he went back in...SOOO I kept on ramming the little piece of stick in there until I seen pieces of his body come out on it...needless to say I smashed him...in the stem...what do you think?
Man, I don't know how you managed to succeed in doing that. My ladies are so tall and thick already, and these borers are so fast at tunneling in, that I noticed that once they get inside then it is almost impossible to get them out. Unfortunately my above-mentioned "successful" method isn't 100% successful. Although this was the first time ever I have collected dead borers (WOW!) on my plant leaves and on stems - a clear sign that the dust CAN kill the borers (its the ONLY product I've seen that can kill these fuckers!!!), however unfortunately four more have managed to bypass the defenses and infect the plants. Really pisses me off. But the plants are still standing strong, appear unaffected, because at this stage they are strong enough to survive this - but I supported them anyway just in case the stem may collapse due to weight and hollow insides). At this point just before the start of July I will take my chances and not cut down anything. Cutting down plants results in more losses. Some strains are more adaptable to the Common Stem Borer.

It was raining a few times and much of the pesticide dust (GardenTech Worry Free Ready To Use Dust) washed off. I also STRONGLY suspect that the Common Stem Borer climbs trees and some may have fallen off and right onto the plants, or some of the grass that leaned onto a couple of them provided an access route. I will apply a sticky substance around all nearby/overlapping trees (Tanglefoot Insect Barrier), maybe that will help.

That GardenTech dust HAS TO BE applied on a daily basis - old layer removed, new fresh layer applied, in the evenings. Once this pesticide dust stays on for a few hours, or due to weather, it solidifies and cooks into cake-like form, or dissipates, rendering it worthless against the Common Stem Borer. Borers are active after sunset, I only see new holes in the mornings. Only the finest dusty dust will come in direct contact with the borer, only that can kill and/or repel it from getting inside the plant.

I am also going to try another method. I will apply an additional spray of either garlic juice or other strong bad smelling liquid on the perimeter of the plants. Maybe that will help deter them, perhaps the Common Stem Borer has a sense of smell? I will report with results of this experiment later.

My general experiment this year has gone like this: I have the same amount of auto's and non-auto females in separate plots. Non-auto's are receiving this magic pesticide dust and other borer deterrent treatments. Auto's are getting ZERO pesticides and/or borer deterrent treatments. So far, exactly 40% of the autos are infected with the Common Stem Borer (but none have collapsed and/or died yet), while only 10-15% of the main females are infected. A third of the non-auto ones have collapsed though - thats the main distinction between the two plots. However, the infection statistics go on to show that hard efforts to deal with the borer does help a bit.
 

JJ05

Well-Known Member
I think I caught it at the R IGHT TIME then dude! It was about 4 inches into my stem. I didnt even know there was a worm in there until I ran the stick into the stem. I saw an entry hole and what looked like an exit hole. SO I chopped the top of my plant off near the entry hole ( at the very top) and I ran a stick down until it stopped. Which was about 4 inches down the stem, hollow ALL the way down. When the stick reached the worm it tried to stick its head out/body, and i SEEN it try to go back in! Thats when I fiercely rammed the stick up n down inside of my stem until I was pulling pieces of it s body out on the stick..Needless to say its dead!!! No signs of borers on my other plants and the current one is doing fine. It sounds like I got very lucky....very very lucky!
 

seed slaya

Active Member
couple of my plants just got hit with these, i'm gonna go cut off the stalks there in and ill take a pic of what i find o.o
 
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