How hard can you push the samsung F series gen 3 strips?

Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by thetr33man, Feb 12, 2018.

  1.  
    thetr33man

    thetr33man Well-Known Member

    Assuming you have adequate cooling how much above 'nominal' current can they run?
    SI-B8U261560WW is rated at 1.12A but what is MAX. Anyone try pushing one till it dies?
     
  2.  
    Viceman666

    Viceman666 Well-Known Member

    Check this video from Led gardener


    He tried to blow up a quantum board.. which is the same led used in the strip if Im not mistaken.. needless to say that they can take a lot of current if you can deal with the heat.. however more current you put .. less efficient they become which is one of the major reason you go LED instead of HPS.. so if it doesnt matter to you and you can keep them cool yes the strip should be able to take a shit ton of current.. maybe some people here have actual numbers but I wouldnt be too worry about blowing your strip because you gave them too much current
     
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  3.  
    guy_incognito251

    guy_incognito251 Active Member

  4.  
    thetr33man

    thetr33man Well-Known Member

    Wow, thats impressive. Would be interesting to know how bad efficiency gets when they are pushed that hard. I ordered one of those strips and was going to use a 60w driver to run it. Its got adjustable current so I can dial it back if necessary. Might be able to take the full 60 tho!
     
  5.  
    nfhiggs

    nfhiggs Well-Known Member

    The F-series uses the LM561C diode, at nominal current its running ~125 mA per diode. The LM561C is rated for 200 mA max current. Max current for the F strips works out to just under 1.8 Amps.
     
  6.  
    Cold$moke

    Cold$moke Well-Known Member

    Subbed im planning an f strip build soon

    And i joined the led gardener :)

    Going for the
    3500K: SI-B8UZ91B20WW or the 2 inch wide ones
     
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  7.  
    Schalalala

    Schalalala Active Member

    Just a side note: QBs have an aluminium PCB and therefore a WAAAAYYYY lower thermal resistance compared to the FR6 PCB material they use for stripes. (Which becomes more important with increasing heat flux density/driving current)
    If LM561Cs would get overdriven that hard on a FR6 stripe, they probably would die or unsolder. Is this guy a active member here? Would be a funny follow up video!
     
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  8.  
    Grower899

    Grower899 Well-Known Member


    I think he was/is a member, but im not sure how active he is since he has a website.
     
    Schalalala likes this.
  9.  
    augusto1

    augusto1 Well-Known Member

    Yes, he is an active member.
    https://www.rollitup.org/t/25-strip...-and-bridgelux-eb-gen-2.957842/#post-14044241
     
  10.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    was running my double strips at 48.3V, not sure what current that converts to, but the calculator says it is circa 2.21A (about 106W). dialed them down to 46V now to run a bit cooler. not needed as there as it least 30 to 35C still to go before hitting the ceiling temp these guys were designed to out live (it is 100Foutside. I dropped the lights down a bit so it will be turned up as soon as I am happy it is not scorching the leaves).

    the single strips are just half of this, but I think it has a little smaller surface area.
     
    thetr33man likes this.
  11.  
    thetr33man

    thetr33man Well-Known Member

    Is that double 2ft or double 4ft strips? Ive got a pretty hefty 3' passive heatsink I plan to mount my strip on, should be plenty of cooling as long as the transfer is ok. I was going to use thermal tape but now I think Im going to use paste and screws instead, to make a better seal...
     
  12.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    4 footers, I think the 2 footers are about 50W
    If you go for single strips, have a google image search for 20mm LED extrusions... shit is quite cheap ex alibaba and will make life easier for you.
     
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  13.  
    nfhiggs

    nfhiggs Well-Known Member

    3" heatsink is way overkill unless you are going to mount two strips side by side on it. Even the 2.079 Heatsink USA profile is more than they need.
     
  14.  
    PurpleBuz

    PurpleBuz Well-Known Member

    but you could aluminum back the FR6 PCB yourself. just like putting a ceramic based cob on a heatsink. ......
     
  15.  
    Schalalala

    Schalalala Active Member

    Please check thermal conductivity of FR6 and aluminium.... FR6 is terrible.
     
  16.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    IMG_20180129_080942s - Copy.jpg
    I use this thin extrusion, it is 74mm wide
     
  17.  
    PurpleBuz

    PurpleBuz Well-Known Member

    no doubt aluminum backed is superior, but you can make up for a lot of it.
     
  18.  
    thetr33man

    thetr33man Well-Known Member

    So I put my light together last night. Im a little disappointed because the 60w driver is only pulling 43w at the wall. Must have gone over voltage, its rated for 24v and this strip is supposed to be 23v @ 1120? Not as bright as I was hoping and it barely gets my heatsink warm. I mounted it with screws and thermal paste. I measured and its pulling about 1400ma from a driver thats supposed to put out 2500... :(
    20180214_072219.jpg
    20180214_072228.jpg
    20180214_072253.jpg
     
  19.  
    Viceman666

    Viceman666 Well-Known Member

    Watt = volt x current
    So if youre getting 43w at 23v it means you have 1.86A current

    To get to 60 W you would need 2.5A

    I have no idea if the strip can take it but thats the simple math
     
    thetr33man likes this.
  20.  
    wietefras

    wietefras Well-Known Member

    Is there perhaps a dimmer pot on the driver which you can adjust to get it to full power?
     

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