Hey RIU another good grow room question to get our minds rollin

Room has tall ceilings that scale upwards at a 90 degree angle. Question 1 - What wattage Hid's would work best for high ceiling and light penetration. I'm looking for a nice spread but mostly light pen i need to work with these high ceilings. Question 2 - I have my plants vegging 24/0 right now, if i change to 18/6 in the near future that wont make them flower will it? Also the plants are rooted seedlings, id imagine i would have trouble if they were much larger. Thanks lets talk
 
If you have the headroom I'd be running thousand watt lamps and vertical hoods like the luxor or OG hoods.
If you have the headroom and the money it takes New DE stuff. AC/DE hoods, solis DE ballasts.
 
If you have the headroom I'd be running thousand watt lamps and vertical hoods like the luxor or OG hoods.
If you have the headroom and the money it takes New DE stuff. AC/DE hoods, solis DE ballasts.
Air cooled and double ended reflectors do i really need it though if the hot air is just gonna rise and can be vacd out of room? temps are usually high where i live as well (hot) outside inside ranges 70 without lights. cool tubes or glass reflectors? trying to keep this cheap but efficient, i want a nice footprint aswell i will have multiple plants with large budding sights (mainlined) I know i have said alot thanks
 
1000's for the depth i see that, would it light up my whole room aswell with a couple of them? room is probobly 8x8 or a little larger with high celings
 
If you mean the ceilings slope up like a dormer from two sides (like the two sides of an A) to a high center peak, you could find what ideal height you want the lights to be at (10' ?) and attach a 2x4 or 2x6 along one wall, run a level across to the opposite wall, then using joist hangars, run perfectly level joists between them, like you would if you were installing a level ceiling. You'd only need cross-joists wherever you plan to attach two ends of each light, and perhaps wherever you might plan to install a soft reflective pseudo-ceiling (like stapled Orca film).

That way, you have a level area to hang your light pulleys from, so you could raise and lower the lights at a continuous horizontal level to however close you wish to be to the crop canopy, raising it as they grow taller.

When you attach the first two boards to the two sides of the ceiling, use a stud finder to locate the existing ceiling joists, then use 4" screws to attach to them. That way, they'll be secure and at any point you wish to disassemble your new ceiling, you can patch the screw holes in the old existing sheetrock pretty easily, touch up the paint and it'll be back to normal.

If you do this, you still may get some heat rising above your new pseudo-ceiling, requiring some added venting, but maybe not. Once the lights are hung, use a thermometer up near the existing peak to determine that.

Of course, if I'm envisioning the shape of your existing high ceiling wrong, then forget everything I just said!
 
If you mean the ceilings slope up like a dormer from two sides (like the two sides of an A) to a high center peak, you could find what ideal height you want the lights to be at (10' ?) and attach a 2x4 or 2x6 along one wall, run a level across to the opposite wall, then using joist hangars, run perfectly level joists between them, like you would if you were installing a level ceiling. You'd only need cross-joists wherever you plan to attach two ends of each light, and perhaps wherever you might plan to install a soft reflective pseudo-ceiling (like stapled Orca film).

That way, you have a level area to hang your light pulleys from, so you could raise and lower the lights at a continuous horizontal level to however close you wish to be to the crop canopy, raising it as they grow taller.

When you attach the first two boards to the two sides of the ceiling, use a stud finder to locate the existing ceiling joists, then use 4" screws to attach to them. That way, they'll be secure and at any point you wish to disassemble your new ceiling, you can patch the screw holes in the old existing sheetrock pretty easily, touch up the paint and it'll be back to normal.

If you do this, you still may get some heat rising above your new pseudo-ceiling, requiring some added venting, but maybe not. Once the lights are hung, use a thermometer up near the existing peak to determine that.

Of course, if I'm envisioning the shape of your existing high ceiling wrong, then forget everything I just said!

Thank you so much you are completely seeing this! The structurs is like one side of the letter (A) im thinking maybe i shouldent cut it off though so the heat would just rise to the top of the A and then i can vent that out into another bedroom or something? but i may be confused now, how much actual heat comes into the grow room anyway if the lights are aircooled with venting because if its not much then i can just figure out some form of constant venting for the light cycles. Building struct
 
building ceilings and walls will work but its just gonna cost more in the end how much of a sealed grow room do i really need the ac is usually blowing good in that room anyways. So hear me out 4 lights hanging at different parts of the roof but at the same level of lighting. air cooled lights hopefully, any excess heat that comes will rise to the top of the a and get vented into the next bedroom.
 
Until you get the faux ceiling in, the lights turned on and a thermometer up there, it's hard to estimate the heat rise to the top. But yeah, if it can be vented into another space, even with a fan, it might do the job, esp if the room is already climate controlled with the AC.
 
In an 8'x8' room you can put 2 3'x6' trays with 4 600watters or 2 1000watters on light movers. I would run gavitas DE. Are you planning on running CO2? You are also going to need about 24000 btu of AC to cool and also a dehumidifier. I have a 70 pint dehumidifier I use to control humidity. This will be needed to prevent black mold from slowly taking over your room and prevent other issues.
 
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