help

day 30 in to flowering. Any ideas what it might be?

Unfortunately it looks to me like you have spider mites.

Look on the undersides of the big fan leaves that have tiny white dots on them. Can you see little moving black specks, like slow-moving pepper? If the infestation is bad enough you might also see little bits of webbing in the nodes where the leaves meet the stalk or in other crotches of the plant.

are they outdoor or indoor
what are you feeding them?

get some lady bugs

Can i see a few more pics please? The dots do resemble spidermite damage and youve got a good chance it is(you havent been misting them, have you?) but thats not the only problem, more pics and some detailed info please........

indoor, fox farm and I bombed them once with a 2 oz pyrethrum tr 2 weeks ago because the mights. should i bomb again?

ok so i do see some movement, so they are back. 30 into flowering what do i do???

A one-time bomb will probably not kill all the mites, I bet it does not kill the eggs so new mites hatched after the bomb was done. Honestly with that many plants I don't know of an effective way to get rid of the mites for good, hopefully someone else here has had experience with mites on a larger scale grow like yours.

And the info that darkdestruction420 wanted, like what ferts do you use, how much/how often do you use them?

What is the pH of the water and nutrient solutions before you give it to your plants? Do you make sure to check the pH of the water after you add any nutes or other additives to it?

What is the pH of your runoff water on the plants that look sick? It will only be a rough estimate of the soil's pH but should be good enough to tell if it is too acidic or too alkaline.

Are you using any other products or doing anything differently, the more info you have the better.

zman707 said:

ok so i do see some movement, so they are back. 30 into flowering what do i do???

Click to expand...

Well I use these:


They work by releasing Dichlorvos poison slwoly into the air. They need to be in a sealed area with your plants and lights and your ventilation must be off or very low because the poison needs to be able to build up to an effective level. If you have too much ventilation it will not work. You can open the sealed area to check on the plants and water them, but it needs to stay sealed for the most part. When the eggs hatch and the mites try to breathe, they immediately die. You use these for two weeks and then wash the plants off really good with water to remove any residue.

I personally don't like to use these when you are this far into flowering, because I don't like using poisons when buds have already grown. You'd also have to spray your buds with a lot of water to wash off the poison when they are done, and I don't think it is good to get the buds all wet. I have heard of people using them during budding but that is up to you and I wouldn't do it if I were you. I'm also not sure how many strips you would need for such a large area, I'm used to only working with a few plants at a time.

Sorry to give advice that you really shouldn't do, but next time if you see spider mites during veg phase you should try using these instead of the fogger. They are a great way to get rid of mites if you aren't flowering already.

my area is only 48sf there are 24 hogs with 2000 watts. fox farm soil and nutes (big bloom, grow big, bestie bloom, tiger bloom ect.) feeding per lable. ph and ppm, well my first indoor grow and I have not checked I know thats a bad thing and I will pick up a meter in the morming, any thoughts on a good meter? so if i do nothing? I have herd that I should raise my humidity. my temp is avg. 80 and my humidity is 45. any other thoughts? neem oil, fly strips?

Yes, spider mites aside you really need to be able to measure and adjust your pH! Along with a good meter or the General Hydroponics water test drops (which only cost around $7 and are fairly accurate), you need a bottle each of pH UP and pH DOWN so you can get it in the correct range after you measure it. I use the water test drops and have not used a meter before, but I have heard people say good things about Hanna brand pH meters.

Just make sure you don't buy a cheap soil test meter or kit. The only good soil pH tests/meters are expensive, and the readings from a cheap one will not be accurate enough to be useful.

You don't have to spend a lot for a good water pH meter, but I wouldn't get one that was like only $10 or something. Check out the Hanna brand online and read some reviews of certain meters, then find one that has good reviews in your price range. If they don't carry them at your local grow/hydro store, then you can order one from the internet.

With regards to the spider mites, it is up to you whether you want to use the No-Pest strips this late into flowering. If you can seal up that space that you're using and turn off or very low your ventilation, you could use them. Personally I wouldn't though.

I have heard neem oil is effective but that is quite a lot of plants to apply neem to and I'm not sure how far into budding you can use that either. Fly strips won't work since spider mites can't fly. They might catch some fungus gnats or other flying pests that are in there though. Instead of fly strips I would get the yellow sticky card traps, they should have them at the grow store. But remember they won't do anything for your spider mites, they are just a good thing to have around for other bugs.

I really don't know of a good way to get rid of the mites this far into budding on that many plants, hopefully someone else has some better ideas.

thanks Antigen, I will pick up a meter in the morning and figure out hou to get rid of these mites!!