Help w/ Automated Hydroponic Indoor Coco Build.

Hello everyone, I’m starting to research my future build blue prints. I’m about to start a RDWC Build and definetly like hydroponics but with all the electricity I’m running (pumps, chillers, etc) I could add another few lights. All my future builds will be coco but will try to keep the system as completely automated as possible. I’ve been up all night working so I’m a bit delirious and have found a few resources to read and will return and cite them and go over them at another time.

So far I’m favoring a Drip/ Top Feed Drain to Waste Coco/Perlite Build. Definetly look over capulators thread as well as a few threads.

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/dtw-vs-recirculating-in-coco-via-top-fed-drip.63204/page-6

Couple designs.

If you have any designs or threads to share It’d be appreciated as well I will return with my own information.

Couldn’t sleep so I’ll go ahead and start this up with drain build style.
There are 2 main styles from what I’m seeing besides a 3rd which is open drain.(Not an option for me it require a room made out of a non absorbent material such as concrete with a floor drain.)

1. Flood Trays- These are setup to be raised trays 4’x4’ for example and the grower would then place smart pots, air pots, etc. into the tray as they cycle plants.

There is either a hole at the base that uses gravity to drain the tray into a reservoir below. (This can then be pumped out of the room)
Or
There is a DIY PVC pipe ring fitting place into the trays and they are setup to a pump draining them directly out of the room.

2. There are individually placed smaller trays or double buckets that instead of a singular drain they are all raised and have drains attached to each individually then hoses all connect each drain to a piece of PVC that either is hooked up to a pump/passive flow and pumped directly out or to reservoir first.

I like option 2 if I were to do 10-12 plants per 2x1000 watt but I plan to run as many phenos as possible so I’ll probably go with trays so I can run SOG style 1-3 gallon pots.


https://www.maximumyield.com/keeping-with-the-flow-hydroponic-irrigation-systems/2/1007

https://www.rollitup.org/t/autopot-vs-drip-irrigation-in-coco.943612/

Definitely deciding on drain tables. Most commercial setups are this way and I’m starting to see why.

I’ll be building these Rolling Trays:





https://ggs-greenhouse.com/all-products/marijuana-benches

Still have to decide on

-auto pots or drip feed (more likely drip)

-Drain style

-Container type

-EC and drip schedule start point but this will likely be modified. I use Jacks plus diy addatives.

A bunch of setups to help me get some ideas on how I want to plan my layout.

None of these are my photos.





https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/shottafires-coco-top-fed-drip-dtw-bubbas-oranges.218423/page-20

These setups are designed to be quite flexible I’m designing mine for either 4’x10’ for 3x600 or 2x1000 watt HPS Lights

The rooms are 10’ by 12’ But I want to be able to keep the system able to fit into a 10’x10’ area. It’ll be 2 rows of 4’x10 and they’ll roll/slide so I can have 2’ of room wherever I need to work but it’ll be able to move them back to a position that maximizes light to the canopy. Then add the support poles to set up trellising.

I’m running into 2 problems here.

1. I can’t find a guide on building the rolling bench tables. I’ll have to buy one first to see how it works then build my own or keep searching for a blue print. Essentially it seems like a tray placed atop poles to roll along a grid.

2. I can’t find 4x10 trays just 4x8 so I’ll have to either switch to 4’x8’ and run 2x 600 watt each tray and setup an area to still hit 50 watts per square foot, Or find 4’x10’ trays later.

Here is the link to a pre built rolling/ sliding bench 4’x8’. They are around 290$ Each.
https://growershouse.com/4-x-8-rolling-floating-aisle-bench-system-stand

Here is the Trellis attachments for the rolling/sliding bench they are around 50$
https://www.bghydro.com/4ft-x-8ft-od-trellis-top-rack-for-rolling-bench-system.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0ujerdbK3gIVj_hkCh2veQJmEAQYAiABEgJNtvD_BwE

A simple solution would be to build a table with wheels on the bottom that have push locks to keep them from rolling. Not as elegant but just as functional. It would also be quite simple to build and much cheaper, or buy another similar product not designed for hydro that can be modified that would cost less.

Here’s a pre tray bench with wheeled legs. Around 230$.
https://growershouse.com/active-aqua-universal-tray-stand-large-4x8

In 3 days you changed from one system to another...

It will be hard to find flood trays that are not 4 x 8 feet or 3 x 6.
In Europe there are flood tables (or danish trays) in sizes like 100 cm x 200 cm and some odd sizes.

For the benches...
You make it much to hard on yourself.
Don't invest too much money, because there is a huge chance that you do want to change it after just 1 grow.
Just buy some wood
https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-2-in-x-8-ft-Furring-Strip-Board-165360/202076422

and some wheels for a few bucks at Home Depot
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shepherd-2-in-Polypropylene-Swivel-Plate-Caster-with-125-lb-Load-Rating-9392/100142073


To make it extra stable, perhaps some of these




A few of those screwed against the side of the table



Put some sticks in it, or some plastic tube.
Perfect to attach a trellis net onto it.



In this pick the net is attached to the trays, but it is much simpler to attach then stick-holders to the wood.

I guess for around $ 50 you will have 2 moving tables.
And if you don't like them, you did not loose a lot of money.

Kami Samurai said:

2. I can’t find 4x10 trays just 4x8 so I’ll have to either switch to 4’x8’ and run 2x 600 watt each tray and setup an area to still hit 50 watts per square foot, Or find 4’x10’ trays later.

Click to expand...

There are 2 solutions that I know.
1.
Buy 3 trays of 4 x 8.
Cut in 2 halves.
The other 2 you cut the them also but just the last foot off.
Then slide them into each other and glue them together. that is what they do with danish trays. They make them as long as they want in this way.
2.
When you have a tray of 4 x 8, and you put your pot on the outer sides of the tray, the leaves will go outside the footprint of 4 x 8.
When your plants are wide, they easily fill up half a foot/foot. So, no need to worry to much.
At least, I think this is what will happen. If not you could help them a bit, like they do with SCROG.
You can bend the stem and 'guide' the plant towards the wall.