''hash tips''

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member

kenny ken 77

Active Member
Perhaps I'm retarded or maybe just a little slow,Lol! But WTF! Is a hash tip? Please someone elaborate for this dense English man. ;-)
 

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
ha.......first thing I thought too :-)
and the meaning of SDS is...?


I will upload my journal with a few more pics but that is what I am looking at :

IMG_8398.jpgIMG_6315-2.jpgIMG_6317.jpgIMG_6324.jpg

I looked at it with the microscope and as far as I can tell it just looks like a bunch of trichromes all together, It seems like I can see some green matter under with the microscope but I was in a very awkward position when looking so it was hard to be accurate
 

kenny ken 77

Active Member
O.k. I see, I clicked on the link a read what was said. I guess matey should post us some pics of these massively impressive tricombe producing plants. So endurOxX please feel free to impress the likes of we. Thank you.
 

kenny ken 77

Active Member
Please do mate, for if true I think I'll be investing in some 660nm L.E.D. Lights, anything for an awesome product. :-). SHITHOT!!! I feel positively old fashioned! Lovin' those girls, look like out with the old and in with the new real soon. They say you learn a new thing everyday, oh so true! Thank you. :-)
 

jcmjrt

Well-Known Member
Beautiful! Any "tips" for growing the Agent Orange? I've been thinking about getting the seeds and trying it in a future grow and it looks like you've got it dialed in with those beautiful hash tips. I do have some 660nm ready to add in to my flower cycle this time round and it will be interesting to see what happens. Hopefully, something like you show in your pics. :)
 

guod

Well-Known Member
660nm as the preferred wave length.
...at least 40% of the light.

i know a guy that is on the same trip...;-)
m50-tri.jpg
 

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
Beautiful! Any "tips" for growing the Agent Orange? I've been thinking about getting the seeds and trying it in a future grow and it looks like you've got it dialed in with those beautiful hash tips. I do have some 660nm ready to add in to my flower cycle this time round and it will be interesting to see what happens. Hopefully, something like you show in your pics. :)
it's all in my journal buddy, the way I grow is so easy, it's hard to fail... I didnt do anything special with agent orange, a few teas here and there, mostly water the whole time and she is gorgeous thank you
 

jcmjrt

Well-Known Member
Endur, looks like we have some similarities with grow. I'm using Kessil LEDs as main lighting (with fluorescent sidelighting) and am growing in 8 gallon 100% organic soil mix to which mostly I'm looking for water only...with some molasses and dyna grow protect...and a couple of teas. Basically, I'm trying to follow "The Rev" and trying spikes and layers this time. The only issue I've had switching to LEDs is watering (well that and adding a heater to my grow room!)...I overwatered once and then made up for it by underwatering and think that I killed off most of my micro herd with my ham handedness on the watering can but luckily it was right at time to transplant to the 8 gallon for flowering so I was able to add back Azos and Mycos. It probably cost me a week of growth but live and learn. I've been thinking about an auto watering system like the Tropf Blumat as some have said that it helps growth because of the even watering...and of course one can hope to leave for a few days and not have droopy plants upon return. Anyway, I hope I have near as much luck with my flowering cycle as you had with yours. :)
 

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
Endur, looks like we have some similarities with grow. I'm using Kessil LEDs as main lighting (with fluorescent sidelighting) and am growing in 8 gallon 100% organic soil mix to which mostly I'm looking for water only...with some molasses and dyna grow protect...and a couple of teas. Basically, I'm trying to follow "The Rev" and trying spikes and layers this time. The only issue I've had switching to LEDs is watering (well that and adding a heater to my grow room!)...I overwatered once and then made up for it by underwatering and think that I killed off most of my micro herd with my ham handedness on the watering can but luckily it was right at time to transplant to the 8 gallon for flowering so I was able to add back Azos and Mycos. It probably cost me a week of growth but live and learn. I've been thinking about an auto watering system like the Tropf Blumat as some have said that it helps growth because of the even watering...and of course one can hope to leave for a few days and not have droopy plants upon return. Anyway, I hope I have near as much luck with my flowering cycle as you had with yours. :)
The soil would have to be so dry to kill the micro herd, as long as your plant is alive, it's living under
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
So ?
Who is this fellow writing all these ?

The same way ...
Knna talking ....


Very interesting, tom. Have you a O2/CO2 evolution measurement device? That would be the esential part to know for sure what happen with photosynthesis (photomorphogenesis can be studied by just observing).

Apart of quantum efficiency, that is clear is very similar on all the orange-yellow range (acording to McCree, 100% from 599 to 635nm, and 90% from 559 to 674nm, that already includes all the yellow), we have to take into account differential absorbance. Quantum efficiency refers to already absorbed photons. Its clear that once absorbed, most photons into PAR have a similar ability to perform photosynthesis. But absorbance is higher on blue, that just compensates its lower quantum efficiency, and on red, higher as longer the red wavelenght (up to 670nm or a little higher, specie dependent but always on same trend. So when you examine both the quantum efficiency and absorbance, as Inada did, you get that the max efficiency point is about 670nm, although its over 90% from 600 to 685nm.

When we are growing with artificial light sources, another consideration is very important: how many photons you get with 1 burned watt. In this plays a role mainly the energy efficiency of the source, but too the wavelenght, as at equal energy efficiency, a 660nm emits about 4-5% more photons than a 640nm one, and way more if we talk of shorter red wavelenghts. So if we could get 660nm LEDs with same efficiency than 635nm ones, that until now has been impossible, it could makes sense to use them over any other wl of red.

Now manufacturers are doing AlIngap 660nm LEDs with similar efficiency than standard 625nm dominat wl red LEDs, is the moment to study what is better (until now, clearly the more efficient 640nm peaked, IMO). In this sense, not only photosynthesis matter, as tom pointed out very well. Ive observed too problems when too much 660 red is used.

We need to observe the sinergies of different bands of light, that some may be specie specific and some valid for all. Ive noticed a wide variation of spectrum efficacy (yield per mol of photons), accounting for up to 200%, that clearly cant be explained by different photosynthesis rate of the indivudual bands, but for sinergistic effect between them. And I suspect too that plant acclimatation to light qualities is important.

On the other hand, almost all studies refer to level of light of unsaturated photosynthesis, while on indoor growing usually saturating irradiance levels are used. Things change in this scenario. For sure blue photons are way better on high irradiances than the charts for non saturating photosynthesis may lead to think.

BTW, tom, your data about LED's efficiency is very outdated. Right now there are royal blue LEDs with efficiencies past 50%, and easy to get over 40% ones. Whites with higher efficiencies than HPS (and without taking into account reflector losses) and reds too. The efficiencies you posted were from 2-3 years ago, at least.
http://www.greenpinelane.com/YAF/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=102

See this graph about RQE....
Then we can talk about, which red-when used solely-,is more efficient ...
RQe.jpg
http://leds.hrt.msu.edu/assets/Uploads/PowerPoints/2012-OFA-Short-Course-presentation-Mitchell-Lopez-Runkle-and-Burr.pdf

660 red leds ,are not used by horticultural industry ,not even ,to aid photosynthesis at greenhouses....
They are used mainly ,for phytochrome responses control ...
( phytochrome Pfr saturation during daylight / night interruption )..
And thus ,photomorphogenic control of physical characteristics of plants ,or delay/acceleration of flowering/fruiting...

In nature,now.....
Sativas are more illuminated with the combo deep red + Uv b (tropical sunlight ),than Indicas are...
While sativas are famous for higher concentrations of Δ9-THCA & THCV ,it is indicas that are famous for their trichome density...
Not much red 650-700 ,there ,neither so much UV,where indicas grow....

Still ,I never said that 660 light doesn't " work " ,regarding photosynthesis....
It " works "...
But ...
...
 

unknown9

Well-Known Member
I have seen this happen, I see heat burn on the leafs quite often, but i've only seen this effect once, and i cut of the tip and binned it.!!
 
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