GE grow light

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trx250x7

Well-Known Member
Looking at DIY and other lighting research I have been doing lead me to this light. Has anyone used or thought of using one like this? it is a quality made in America unit with a 5 year warranty. I have seen other people use high bay lighting just not LED . you can get it with 4000k or 5000k leds.. is there a reason these wouldn't work?


http://www.shineretrofits.com/ge-lighting-abh2-0-6-v-539-watt-539w-abh2-series-high-bay-lighting-fixture-six-led-modules-very-high-output-multivolt-120v-277v.html
 
Final Phase

Final Phase

Well-Known Member
I'm sure it will grow plants. If I were to spend that much money on a system. I would want to check out for more info. It sounds like very low watts for the price. I only have limited knowledge on price ranges and system, but the seems a bit high in price.
 
sunny747

sunny747

Well-Known Member
That's a lot of chingo for a light. LED tech will leapfrog it's self so fast that it will be obsolete in a year. I also don't know bout the spectrum. 4000k and 5000k aren't exactly the spectrum recommended for growing. Not enough blue for Veg and not enough red for flower. Yea, it'd probably work, but it'd probably be way better to buy several Area 51's or Mars Hydro II and have the ability to shift them around, plus they would have better spectrum.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Claims 110lm/W but doesnt say at what ambient temp and if temp stabilized. That might be the pulsed output at 25C. If we give them the benefit of the doubt, 110lm/W is about 34% efficient or 165 PAR W for $2200. So they are charging $13/PAR W. For comparison the Optic Vero 360 cost about $6/PAR W and runs at 40% efficient.
 
sunny747

sunny747

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Claims 110lm/W but doesnt say at what ambient temp and if temp stabilized. That might be the pulsed output at 25C. If we give them the benefit of the doubt, 110lm/W is about 34% efficient or 165 PAR W for $2200. So they are charging $13/PAR W. For comparison the Optic Vero 360 cost about $6/PAR W and runs at 40% efficient.
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Vero looks like a good light.

May I ask you about the term "PAR". I see par used in different ways.
I see it used referring to a reflector inside the light. For example a flashlight has a reflector.
I see it used to describe the light spectrum
I see it used to describe the penetration
 
puffenuff

puffenuff

Well-Known Member
trx250x7 said:
Looking at DIY and other lighting research I have been doing lead me to this light. Has anyone used or thought of using one like this? it is a quality made in America unit with a 5 year warranty. I have seen other people use high bay lighting just not LED . you can get it with 4000k or 5000k leds.. is there a reason these wouldn't work?


http://www.shineretrofits.com/ge-lighting-abh2-0-6-v-539-watt-539w-abh2-series-high-bay-lighting-fixture-six-led-modules-very-high-output-multivolt-120v-277v.html
Click to expand...
I haven't seen anyone use GE LEDs yet. GE has always been a quality brand name in appliances. I don't see any reason why these wouldn't work well. I like that there are different options for the beam angles. 70lbs makes it a beast of construction though. And the price is definitely up there, but if it can compare to other lights in the same watt and price ranges, no reason it couldn't be a viable alternative. I'd love to see one in use.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
sunny747 said:
Vero looks like a good light.

May I ask you about the term "PAR". I see par used in different ways.
I see it used referring to a reflector inside the light. For example a flashlight has a reflector.
I see it used to describe the light spectrum
I see it used to describe the penetration
Click to expand...
PAR stands for "Parabolic Aluminized Reflector" often used for floodlights.

In regard to spectrum, PAR stands for "photosynthetically active radiation", referring to the 400-700nm range used for photosynthesis (also corresponds with the range of human vision).

When rating the output of a bulb you see lumens (human perceived brightness), PPF (photon count) and PAR W (photon energy). The numbers can all be converted into each other. PAR W represents the total energy in Watts of all the photons in the 400-700nm range.

Efficiency is PAR W / dissipation W

And finally you see PAR W/ft² with represents how much of the emitted energy is actually making it to the canopy. PPFD is often used which represents the photon count/sq meter.

Sounds confusing at first but these are terms that are worthwhile for growers to get familiar with.
 
sunny747

sunny747

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
PAR stands for "Parabolic Aluminized Reflector" often used for floodlights.

In regard to spectrum, PAR stands for "photosynthetically active radiation", referring to the 400-700nm range used for photosynthesis (also corresponds with the range of human vision).

When rating the output of a bulb you see lumens (human perceived brightness), PPF (photon count) and PAR W (photon energy). The numbers can all be converted into each other. PAR W represents the total energy in Watts of all the photons in the 400-700nm range.

Efficiency is PAR W / dissipation W

And finally you see PAR W/ft² with represents how much of the emitted energy is actually making it to the canopy. PPFD is often used which represents the photon count/sq meter.

Sounds confusing at first but these are terms that are worthwhile for growers to get familiar with.
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Thank you. Which does a PAR Meter measure? I am guessing "
PAR stands for "photosynthetically active radiation", referring to the 400-700nm range used for photosynthesis (also corresponds with the range of human vision)."

What would be the best measurment to pay attention to when evaluating LED grow lights?
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
sunny747 said:
What would be the best measurment to pay attention to when evaluating LED grow lights?
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The 3 most important numbers are

1) efficiency (power out / power in). This is how much electric energy is converted into PAR range radiation rather than than heat
2) uMol/J. The more, the better. Blue photons carry more energy than red photons, but you only want around 15% blue. basically translates to "more photons is better" and avoiding too many high energy photons.
3) cost to setup 1 watt of power out
 
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SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Yep that should help you find the best designs. A PAR meter measures PPFD. It estimates the photon count hitting the sensor and extrapolates that to 1 sq meter. Unfortunately PAR meters do not have a flat response, especially in the red/deep red region. So you can get artificially low readings when measuring LED lamps.
 
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