For veg room, Mothership or Super UFO?
- Thread starter LEDmania
- Start date
fb360
Active Member
Why spend so much on a veg room which doesn't dictate the final product... Just buy a 8bulb t5 floro light and call it a day. All this nonsense over which LED veg setup should I have is ridiculous. Period. All of the benefits of LED come in flower, none in veg. In fact, you suffer greatly in veg with LED; grow those bitches and get them ready to receive some crystals.
e;
Just to be clear; there are definite, and quantifiable benefits to using LED in flower, and I'm all for them when used efficiently
gordobo
Active Member
If you hate to change bulbs than I might suggest you also have a look at induction lights. They cover a bigger area and less heat. You can read more at http://www.igrowlights.com/
peace
puffenuff
Well-Known Member
How big is your veg area? I feel like you can get better coverage for less money than the mothership. LEDs do a super job in veg, even the cheaper leds. I'd go with the cidly ufos if you like their specs, otherwise check out some cheaper options. A little bit of led goes a long way in veg. Good luck.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
I have vegged & flowered under LEDs and HOT5s. Pretty much a draw. Glad I don't listen to negative opinions based on ....?
My last grow is documented on IC, but have a new one here.
Now I do have to supplement my R/B ufo 90 with screw bulb leds from Lowes/HD. This is no different than swapping veg and flower bulbs in my HOT5
Between your 2 choices, the curved SM engine will provide more coverage and better light distribution
My last grow is documented on IC, but have a new one here.
Now I do have to supplement my R/B ufo 90 with screw bulb leds from Lowes/HD. This is no different than swapping veg and flower bulbs in my HOT5
Between your 2 choices, the curved SM engine will provide more coverage and better light distribution
My veg room is a bit large, it is about 4x4.5ft, but currently, I only have 16 clones at under two 105W CFL bulbs. I am wondering if one Mothership or Cidly UFO will replace my 210W CFL bulbs. Another point is if they can offer enough energy or not. Here is the pics of my veg pots.
Hi, gordobo, thanks for your good ideas. How's your result with the Igrowlight induction light please?
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
I would like to see a journal for these igrows....read alot of about them...yet to see anyone document a grow.
It is because I do have gotten some good flower results under the LEDs that I am going to change all grow bulbs into LEDs. But there is no any review for both of these LED lights yet. Probably there is a better option for me, may Hans panel?
The same here~
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Gonna be a one trick pony here and say look into these, they might interest you. Hopefully soon I'll have some experience with multichip LED's mated to CPU coolers so we can have some concrete results on the reliability (or lack thereof) in cooling these high power consumption LED's cheaply/efficiently/quietly all in a somewhat compact form-factor.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Hey bumping....check out this seller...right up your alley... 
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/High-power-led/703036_209875758.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/High-power-led/703036_209875758.html
Thanks for your links and look forward to seeing your amazing job.
Personally, I am still very doubt about the interating LEDs(multichip LEDs). From the informtaion, I can be told these LEDs run at about 300-320mA and 3.0-3.5V DC at each. There are 100pcs 45mil LEDs, 10pcs as a series, so the total input current is 300mA-320mA, but the input voltage multiplies, 10x3.0-3.5=30-35V DC each series.
And then 10 serieses connected as a parallel, the input voltage doesn't change, still 30-35V, but the input current multiplies, 10x300-320=3000-3200mA.
So, there is a extremely fatal disadvantage in such a multichip LED: If one LED burnt, that one series will not work, and the bad thing is the input current at that series will spread to the other 9 seireses. It means each series of these 9 serieses will have to take more input current, about 33.3mA. 300+33.3=333.3mA each seires.
If another LED of these 9 seires get burnt, things could be worse then, because there are 333.3mA spreads to the other 8 serieses.....
And then the LED will be burnt faster and faster.......
Am I right? I am not sure if my concern is corrent or not.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
As I understand LED's in parallel don't play well together, so in order to mediate this each row of chips has its own voltage regulator set at whatever the voltage demands of those chips are. I believe you're correct in assuming if one chip dies the other chips in series with it will fail as well, however, if you properly cool the entire array you're still looking at an un-Godly life expectancy. I'm not too worried about chips dying on me so much as how will I cool the entire array properly so as to prevent a premature failure. And after that how can I accomplish this as cheaply as possible with respect to results and reliability.
Just my 2 cents.
Hey, Chronikool, thanks, I'll check 'em out.
Just my 2 cents.
Hey, Chronikool, thanks, I'll check 'em out.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Jeez, even 10w chips scare me, but supposedly our beloved mmj can handle 'high power' whites. Hope you have sufficient height in your tent to move far enough away in case of bleaching.
5 @ 50w, spread out in a 2 X 4 tent could be the ticket: one NW in the center and 4 WW in the corners aiming down on a ~ 45* angle
Individual engines would also minimize heat sink sizes
Please keep us posted
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Will do. Still working on funds, atm. Trying to seal the deal on the custom LED and driver right now, then I'll have to work on getting my hands on a ChromaLit lens, reflector, CPU cooler, and PSU for the fan which, altogether, is another $60+ I've got to come up with.
As for tent height, I'm sorry to disappoint, but my flower room is 24"x24"x55". Not much closet room.
The driver I'm looking at is also rated at 120W, not 100W... 
Just have to figure out what to do with those supplemental panels I made. ~30W each, very flat and produce very little heat as far as I can tell. They should probably be placed vertically along the walls and just be 100% inter-canopy. 3 x ~30W Astir inspired panel, 1 x ~120W remote phosphor spot light, ~210W total over 4ft^2 = ~53W/ft^2.
As for tent height, I'm sorry to disappoint, but my flower room is 24"x24"x55". Not much closet room.
The driver I'm looking at is also rated at 120W, not 100W... Just have to figure out what to do with those supplemental panels I made. ~30W each, very flat and produce very little heat as far as I can tell. They should probably be placed vertically along the walls and just be 100% inter-canopy. 3 x ~30W Astir inspired panel, 1 x ~120W remote phosphor spot light, ~210W total over 4ft^2 = ~53W/ft^2.
mamakush
Active Member
That's interesting... I picture the 50w diodes/lights being set up almost like an HID with it's own ballast and cooling unit... definitely different. I worry that having so much power coming out of one diode limits the spectrum you can provide, and I firmly believe that you need a pretty rich spectrum to make for truly happy plants.
At OP: 4x4.5 is a decent area, and those 16 clones are going to need to be spread out as they grow, so I'm not sure a UFO is your best bet. To cover that whole footprint I'd go with a 300 to 400 watt unit. If you do want to go smaller, I recommend the black dog micro. I've had excellent results with different models from them.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
The LED driver is similar in some respects to an HID ballast. Bit more efficient, fwiw. As for the cooling unit it's not a "cool tube," so much as a plethora of Aluminum fins all connected to Copper heat pipes and oriented in such a way that a single fan can blow air between them all. I suppose you could enclose the CPU cooler in some ducting and extract the warm air from the tent altogether.
It's not one diode, really, there's fifty 1W chips arranged in a tightly knit matrix. You can run multiple wavelengths of chips on the same array. Also, I'll be using a phosphor lens which will be producing full spectrum light. If everything goes as planned it should be a very healthy spectra of light that plants can absorb at high efficiency.
Edit - Ack. I forgot, I'm totally derailing this thread. Sorry, LEDmania.
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