Fan leaves yellowing and dying (Week 5 flower)

Not sure what's going on with this one plant. It's some kind of deficiency. N or P or Mag. The leaves are yellowing, browning, and falling off. I'm getting worried because I'm running low on large fan leaves. I fed her 1 tsp epsom salt and 1ml dyna mag pro, and I gave her 7g maxibloom. It only brought my ppm to 130 (I use RO water). Is my ppm still too low? Should I do anything different? My other 2 plants haven't lost any leaves, but this is a hybrid and it's much taller. I planned on flushing at 6wks, so don't want to run into any issues.

To me it seems fairly normal for leaf fade and drop off during flowering. The plant has plenty of nitro ( dark color ) ... RO water is stripped of calcium / mag as part of the filtering process , and that is why we add calmag back to solution.

As long as Ph of water or feed mix ( 6.3-6.5 when using soil ) uptake is stable , it leaves most issues corrected. PK is usually what starts to show as blooming deficiencies.

Sativas will run longer and are usually hungry plants. Overall they look good.

Yeah the other 2 look great. How much cal/mag do you add per gallon and how often?

Start with 1 teaspoon per gallon of water for light treatment, 2 for heavier .
I use Tap water ( local ) and find it easier to dial in ph ( ph down ) than using , RO or other " special " water ... I mean it's the same stuff you water your grass with .

I rarely have to ADD calmag if it is in the water still AND in my nute line.

Epsom salt really lays on the " salt " issue .. Which sometimes pushes one to flush .
You may have to do that to help correct .

Taller one may like stronger nutrients than the other. Your other plant looks nice so I'm guessing the nutrients you feed has more than enough K in it, so it's not a all out K deficiency, and it's not P deficiency cuz the underside of the leaves would look blue most of the time and just doesn't look like it and the nutrients you use for other plants are fine and buds formed good. So is it N deficiency, most likely. It's probably just that plant likes stronger overall nutrients and feeding your bloom nutrient regimen at this stage with lower N levels contained within compounded with the plants extra needs, N levels were just not enough for this heavy feeder, your choioce if you choose to up N levels at this stage of the game. N doesn't automatically lower yield, it's excess that will, N is necesary in bloom. Lesson learnt that this plant likes higher nutrition.

p.s. I read a long time ago some scientific article about how Mg can act as N to the plant. The Mg molecule will take the place of the insuffucuent N molecule in the plant on molecular level, and Mg does green up plants. Some wierd thought to look into. It was long long time ago I read that.

Good luck. Plants still look really good.

Bloom nutrients still have amounts of N in them, well they should, so maybe you just need to up the nutrition for that particular plant overall, not chasing any specific nutrient issue.(?)

I was thinking exactly that. I didn't think I needed N this late into flower. I checked my tap and its 600 ppm. Much different than my 18 ppm RO water. I need to decide:
1. Moving forward should I use RO with calmag? Or just tap? Or half and half?
2. Adding 7g maxibloom only got me to 110 ppms. Is this ok? Should I add more? I've only lightly fed the plants 2-3 times this entire grow.
3. Should I give the plant some dyna-gro foliage for extra N?

The one thing I can say for sure, at least if this was my plant, is that I wouldn't spray them with a high N of anything at this point, let them work it out through the roots transporting the nutrient to where it's needed, rather than juicing up buds with N that they'll suck in right to bud sites and who knows how could affect yield, is my thought.

Oh definitely. I didn't even want to spray it with some epsom salt.

You're using products from different nutrient companies, which is fine, if you're capable of avoiding overlap/deficiencies. The overlap of products has either generated lockout, or an imbalance, possibly both, adverse to this plants success.

vinny2times said:

I was thinking exactly that. I didn't think I needed N this late into flower. I checked my tap and its 600 ppm. Much different than my 18 ppm RO water. I need to decide:
1. Moving forward should I use RO with calmag? Or just tap? Or half and half?
2. Adding 7g maxibloom only got me to 110 ppms. Is this ok? Should I add more? I've only lightly fed the plants 2-3 times this entire grow.
3. Should I give the plant some dyna-gro foliage for extra N?

Click to expand...

My tap is around 500ppm tds. I mix it 50/50 with RO, I still have to add cal/mag because even though my tds is hi there is no cal, but it's hi in silica.
I'm a believe in underfeeding is better than overfeeding, but 110ppm seems a little low.
You need N for the full grow. It should be cut back as flower time progresses. The heavy yellow leaf with a purple stem, shows that the plant is eating the stored N in the fan leaf. In other words it's not getting enough N. If you're wk 6 or more into flower then I wouldn't worry about the self eating.