Fan leaves turning away from light
- Thread starter Bjg
- Start date
No I've had fans off for past 2 days trying to keep some heat in. Its definately something the plants done for some reason
Medicated Bonsai
Well-Known Member
I've never seen this before so I can't give too much feedback. My only guess would be ph issues but, that's just a guess on my part.
For better assistance, we would need more details on your setup. What kind of light, did you use tap or RO water, what nutrients have you fed so far, what are the PPM/PH levels, etc. Anything that you think may help us / guide us to a solution.
Hopefully someone with more experience comes to this thread. Good luck to you!
For better assistance, we would need more details on your setup. What kind of light, did you use tap or RO water, what nutrients have you fed so far, what are the PPM/PH levels, etc. Anything that you think may help us / guide us to a solution.
Hopefully someone with more experience comes to this thread. Good luck to you!
Medicated Bonsai
Well-Known Member
It's hard for me to diagnose since I grow in soil but i'll take a stab at it.
I feel like 5.8-6.3 ph swing is a little much, is there anyway to make this more stable?
I'm not sure about hydro but, 600 ppm in your stage of growth seems a bit high. I think the leaves twisting like that could be a mixture of over-fertilization and PH levels.
Red petioles(the stem that connects the leaf to the main branch) usually indicates Phosphorus issues.
Could you take a picture in normal lighting? It's hard to tell if the leaves are affected as well.
I feel like 5.8-6.3 ph swing is a little much, is there anyway to make this more stable?
I'm not sure about hydro but, 600 ppm in your stage of growth seems a bit high. I think the leaves twisting like that could be a mixture of over-fertilization and PH levels.
Red petioles(the stem that connects the leaf to the main branch) usually indicates Phosphorus issues.
Could you take a picture in normal lighting? It's hard to tell if the leaves are affected as well.
Why would I turn the leaves? Theres no conspiracys here mate, checked them this morning everything was fine. Checked an hour ago and noticed the twist, took some pics. Went back out 15mins ago to get some pics in better light and noticed one is on it's way back. Maybe you're just way2high
Medicated Bonsai
Well-Known Member
Everything looks healthy and even in color.
Way2-High
Well-Known Member
I definitely amWhy would I turn the leaves? Theres no conspiracys here mate, checked them this morning everything was fine. Checked an hour ago and noticed the twist, took some pics. Went back out 15mins ago to get some pics in better light and noticed one is on it's way back. Maybe you're just way2high
growingforfun
Well-Known Member
The leaf will point at the most suitable light, sometimes the light reflected off the wall is more suitable.
That's my guess, photo didn't load for me so it's just a guess.
That's my guess, photo didn't load for me so it's just a guess.
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
Too much light eh? Figure it out. Raise the damned light.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I certainly wouldn't worry about it.
I've use AN 3-part for years and never bother checking the pH and find that pH pens don't read it properly anyways so I just ignore it. Whether DWC or soilless it doesn't seem to matter. I only use RO water too so I don't have to worry about minerals in my tap water screwing things up. I've gone full DWC grows without changing nutes even once and had great results. About 50 tubs worth of DWC under my belt since '01 so have tried all sorts of things.
Before they became pH Perfect my pH would climb up to around 6.3 every 3 days when I did my top ups so I'd add a few drops of concentrated sulfuric acid after adding any nutes to keep the ppm at the level I wanted. The pH could go down to 5.2 or so but would always climb back up. That swing in pH makes different nutes more available to the plants and I had the best grows ever with the regular swing. Makes me want to switch to a non-pH Perfect type sometimes but nah.
I've use AN 3-part for years and never bother checking the pH and find that pH pens don't read it properly anyways so I just ignore it. Whether DWC or soilless it doesn't seem to matter. I only use RO water too so I don't have to worry about minerals in my tap water screwing things up. I've gone full DWC grows without changing nutes even once and had great results. About 50 tubs worth of DWC under my belt since '01 so have tried all sorts of things.
Before they became pH Perfect my pH would climb up to around 6.3 every 3 days when I did my top ups so I'd add a few drops of concentrated sulfuric acid after adding any nutes to keep the ppm at the level I wanted. The pH could go down to 5.2 or so but would always climb back up. That swing in pH makes different nutes more available to the plants and I had the best grows ever with the regular swing. Makes me want to switch to a non-pH Perfect type sometimes but nah.
Yeah I love the ease of advanced nutrients and it seems to grow pretty well for an amateur. You must have gained some pretty good knowledge of nutrient strengths over the years. Do you follow the AN feeding guides? They seem a bit strong, or have you come up with your own rates and which additives do you use? Would love to hear from someone with some first hand experience. I have 4 plants in an rdwc does this affect the nutrient levels you'd run or would you just change more frequently. Sorry I have about a million questions but it's hard to find people with actual first hand knowledge that want to part with it. I find myself kind of hitting and hoping most the time.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I've never followed AN's charts. 4ml/L for everything is just way too much most of the time. If you run at that rate and/or use their full range of additives you will kill your plants for sure. I only use the 3-part, Rhino Skin for the silica and Big Bud for my bud booster. Any old CalMag will do and I use that at no more than half strength. A bit of Epsom Salts once in a while and I also grind up some of my own supplements to feed them too. For a batch of nutes in a system like yours or one of my RubberMaid tubs I would use two 50mg zinc citrate, two 1000mg ascorbic acid,(vit. C), two 200mcg selenium, two 100mg B1and a couple of 125mcg chromium&vanadium. I just fed my plants in soilless the same thing.
Your 600ppm is just on the top end of what I would use for plants that size. I'll start clones at 300 and when they are that size I'll aim for 500 give or take 50 but 600 isn't out of line. If your humidity is low it could be enough to cause some nute burn so keep an eye out for it.
Bit too late to get into more tonight but I'll be on tomorrow.
I'm currently using under 2ml per litre of the 3 part. Cal mag 0.5ml per litre and B52 very slight amount and have since diluted to 550ppm
What are your thoughts on the B52 additive in your res, it always seems to make a brown clump in my roots and builds up on everything so I only use the slightest bit. I'm pretty sure it's not root rot and plants seem to like it just looks a little off that's all. I run undercurrent dwc and all the lines get caked up so I have to replace them every grow.
What are your thoughts on the B52 additive in your res, it always seems to make a brown clump in my roots and builds up on everything so I only use the slightest bit. I'm pretty sure it's not root rot and plants seem to like it just looks a little off that's all. I run undercurrent dwc and all the lines get caked up so I have to replace them every grow.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I've never used B52 so can't help you there. I bought B-1 tabs as vitamin B-1 is supposedly the only B vitamin that plants need. Never noticed it doing anything in DWC and couldn't tell if it did anything for the plants either. I have only done DWC in the tubs so never had any lines to worry about other than the air lines for the airstones. Always ran a sterile grow using peroxide twice a week for maintenance until I made a DIY chiller out of a water cooler then stopped the peroxide.
Somethings not right if your lines are plugging up. Most growers using your kind of setup just flush with peroxide or bleach to clean up between runs. They aren't clear lines exposed to light are they? My chiller lines had algae growth in them as they are clear so I mixed up some 35% peroxide to about 10% in an ice cream pail and ran that for a day to get the gunk out and will wrap the exposed parts with electrical tape next time I use it.
Somethings not right if your lines are plugging up. Most growers using your kind of setup just flush with peroxide or bleach to clean up between runs. They aren't clear lines exposed to light are they? My chiller lines had algae growth in them as they are clear so I mixed up some 35% peroxide to about 10% in an ice cream pail and ran that for a day to get the gunk out and will wrap the exposed parts with electrical tape next time I use it.
T macc
Well-Known Member
It's probably genetic. I had a pheno of Hindu HashPlant do this with it's 3rd leaf set. It would twist almost 760°. Also, 1 of 9 of its offspings did the same. It could be too much light for that plant. Or like I said, genetic