Failing growing with leds strips.

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Ita very possible you need to start using RO water now rather than your tap so that you can actually add and mix first, CALMAG before your nutrients being mixed so it doesn't lock out. LEDs almost always command more calmag for the plants.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Do you heat the whole room, is that your room temp or canopy temp. I really concerned about raising the humidity past 50% as the room is just a standard room with sheetrock walls and carpet...just a spare room. I afraid the carpet and walls might start molding and I'm allergic to that shit.
If that was the case, every house in Florida, Georgia, shit, half the United States in 100% humidity for the majority of the year, would all have molded out walls.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Are you in a open room? Why not put them in tents. What's the ambient temperature of the room? If you room temp is pretty cold. Then the leds arent going to keep the soil warm enough to grow right or take in nutrients. Bc they dont have IR. I just went through this bc its winter here. I run all leds. It's like 7-10° outside here. I grow in a building that's built into a hill side. Three sides of it. In the summer time the room stays 65-70° leds bring the temp up perfect. Hid it gets hot as fuck in my tents. Gotta run A.C. but the ground gets cold around my building and in the winter time its get cold in the room. Like 40° the LEDs dont have ir to keep the soil base warm in turn to keep the roots warm enough. But doing an open room the leds arent gonna keep anything warm enough.
Glad I kept reading down the thread because I was LITERALLY going to ask the same exact thing. If you're in an open area, buy some cheap tents and you'll be able to get your environment dialed in beautifully with the LEDs. 4X8 is only like $150 for some. I recommend Apollo highly. Purple stitching.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Running a rootbound plant under a 200W light in a large room in the cold season with no extra heat....

With HID yo always have the radiant heat on everything in the light field... year in and out, whether you need it or not... leading to its own problems.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Ya I'm starting to get his issues.

I think mostly it has to do with everything we've all said, but also the fact that you went from 1,000w to 200.
 

taproot

Well-Known Member
I like the part where you say your not giving them to much. They are nute burnt. And then you say you gave them more. Your temp and humidity needs to get in check along with your nutrient feedings.

View attachment 4271601
I said i've tried adjusting the nutes from less to more than I normally due. It may be nute burn and if it is then it's something to do with the lighting and environment and how they interact. I've grown several grows with the same ferts with the same starting and final ppm / ph with success. The only difference this grow is the light. Those pics of the plants I posted are starting to look better and getting more green color to them and all I did is put them under the HPS..so they still have the same nute strength they had under the leds. I can feed them exactly the same way with zero changes and they always get that way under led and then recover under hps it's reproducible. I'm thinking that the low room temp and the humidity played a big part in this and probably didn't let the plant metabolize properly and the nutes built up and burned it. It's just a theory if it's really nute burn which a few have mentioned. It's just confusing that a light change fixes it. I think the IR in the hps compensates for the low room temp and heats the leaf material up since it penetrates it. I guess this might open the soma more..don't know. Thanks for your input.

https://www.dudegrows.com/led-grow-day-night-temphumidity/
 

taproot

Well-Known Member
Running a rootbound plant under a 200W light in a large room in the cold season with no extra heat....

With HID yo always have the radiant heat on everything in the light field... year in and out, whether you need it or not... leading to its own problems.
It's not rootbound...but yes to the rest. The room is generally in the 68 to 70F with the leds on and the cab they are in is about 73 to 75 which I thought would be enough. It's enough with just a simple 150 hps hovering over them about 10-12 inches with that IR and radiant heat. I'm going to let them recover under the hps more and then move them back and then I'm going to buy one of those electric oil filled space heaters and heat the room up to about 80-85 and bump up the humidity and see what happens.
 

taproot

Well-Known Member
Are you in a open room? Why not put them in tents. What's the ambient temperature of the room? If you room temp is pretty cold. Then the leds arent going to keep the soil warm enough to grow right or take in nutrients. Bc they dont have IR. I just went through this bc its winter here. I run all leds. It's like 7-10° outside here. I grow in a building that's built into a hill side. Three sides of it. In the summer time the room stays 65-70° leds bring the temp up perfect. Hid it gets hot as fuck in my tents. Gotta run A.C. but the ground gets cold around my building and in the winter time its get cold in the room. Like 40° the LEDs dont have ir to keep the soil base warm in turn to keep the roots warm enough. But doing an open room the leds arent gonna keep anything warm enough.
It's kinda a cab...just a wire rack wrapped with some panda film...very cheesy but all I had until I can build a small cab. I want to get a 36w x 24D x 52H cab soon. The room is a 12x12 and it's about 64 with no lights and the leds seem to get it to about 68/69F. The getto cab is about 73-75F with the leds in it which I thought would be enough. I was thinking of getting a cheap grow tent to hold me over until I can build a nice wood cab....do the tents retain heat better? A 36W x 24 D tent would be enough i think.
 

taproot

Well-Known Member
If that was the case, every house in Florida, Georgia, shit, half the United States in 100% humidity for the majority of the year, would all have molded out walls.
A lot do and they don't know it because it grows on the backside of drywall and releases mycotoxins which might not have any effect on one person but really make another person really sick. I have a chronic pain autoimmune illness so I have to be careful.
 

taproot

Well-Known Member
Ita very possible you need to start using RO water now rather than your tap so that you can actually add and mix first, CALMAG before your nutrients being mixed so it doesn't lock out. LEDs almost always command more calmag for the plants.
Hmm..wonder why leds require more...I'll look into that. I thought, I'd have to check...but the last time I looked at my city water report it showed it had a high cal rating and I thought the mag was up there to. I figured the 200ppm was mostly cal and mag so I never really bothered with it using dynagro products with hps. I'll check into this...thanks.
 

taproot

Well-Known Member
Glad I kept reading down the thread because I was LITERALLY going to ask the same exact thing. If you're in an open area, buy some cheap tents and you'll be able to get your environment dialed in beautifully with the LEDs. 4X8 is only like $150 for some. I recommend Apollo highly. Purple stitching.
Thank you ..i'll check out amazon.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
It's kinda a cab...just a wire rack wrapped with some panda film...very cheesy but all I had until I can build a small cab. I want to get a 36w x 24D x 52H cab soon. The room is a 12x12 and it's about 64 with no lights and the leds seem to get it to about 68/69F. The getto cab is about 73-75F with the leds in it which I thought would be enough. I was thinking of getting a cheap grow tent to hold me over until I can build a nice wood cab....do the tents retain heat better? A 36W x 24 D tent would be enough i think.
You'll want to end up just using the tent. They're quite awesome.
 

taproot

Well-Known Member
I guarantee you if you trans to at least 2 gal fabric pots your problems will be behind you.
Guys, I just transplanted them a few days ago into fresh soil and they were not root bound at all ...in fact I was disappointed that the cup was only about 1/4 full of roots. I don't mind transplanting them again...I'm going to give them some time to recover. This morning they are looking much better and are responding to the hps or the IR or the Heat or whatever the fuck it is. This has happened over and over. Give them two weeks under the hps and they look like plants again..put them under my led for two weeks and it starts all over again. With that being reiterated...the reason I choose solo cups is I'm after mothers. So, the plants in those cups will not be flowered in them but rather just provide a few cuttings so that I can clone and flowering when it's got 2 or 3 nodes and force it to grow one cola and not a big plant. I think you have to use clones to sog from what I've read and been told as something about clones and flowering them short grows a single cola. I'm strain hunting and don't want big plants if I'm looking to sample as it's just a waste if I don't like it. If I take a clone and then flower it and like it I'd definitely move the mother into a larger container. I'm going after CBD which is what these are so it can help me with my illness and not be too high in thc and make me anxious which a lot of high thc strains of today do. As I've got older I don't like being on the dark side of the moon much anymore...just relaxed, calm and pain reduction. So does that make sense...those are just going to be mothers so I can take a few cuttings and if I like it I'd keep her and retransplant. But, I've grown mothers before in solo cups and they didn't have this issue and grew to nice healthy mothers that did get root bound so I know what that looks like; people have flowered in those cups before and got a nice cola.
 
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