Dwc questions

juschiln19

juschiln19

Active Member
Hello I appreciate the help. 1st time grower 1st time dwc

Q1 when taking Germinated seed(from solo cup 6.0PH water) and going stright to hydrobucket. How high do I put water for initial setup? Do I place seedling right at water level so tap root and seed is just bearly but fully submerged? Or do I place so tap root is in water but seed is above water?

Q2 when placing seedling in net pot how far from bottom do I place it? 1/4 from bottom or half way?

Q3 when initially setting up with seedling fo i just run ph water for few days. Or nutrients at seedling strength?

Q4 during 1st few days of seedling going into hydrobucket do I want air pump on?
 
bubblescrogs

bubblescrogs

Well-Known Member
Q1. Some pics would help. How established are they? You want them good and healthy with a few roots before moving them. They are going to be shocked from the transition for a few days, especially if the environment (type of light, temp, humidity) is different. Move the solo cup into the new environment for a few hours each day, increasing the hours each day before transplant.

Q2. I fill the net pot about an inch from the top and plant them.

Q3. Use seedling strength and hand water from the top for a week until the roots hit the soup

Q4. Yes, always have the bubbles going
 
juschiln19

juschiln19

Active Member
bubblescrogs said:
Q1. Some pics would help. How established are they? You want them good and healthy with a few roots before moving them. They are going to be shocked from the transition for a few days, especially if the environment (type of light, temp, humidity) is different. Move the solo cup into the new environment for a few hours each day, increasing the hours each day before transplant.

Q2. I fill the net pot about an inch from the top and plant them.

Q3. Use seedling strength and hand water from the top for a week until the roots hit the soup

Q4. Yes, always have the bubbles going
Click to expand...
Hello, basically I germinated a seed in a solo cup ph 6.0 for 2 days. moved it to a paper towel (not sure why i felt the need to do both methods) for 2 days. It had a tap root about a qurter inch long. Moved it to hydrobucket about 1.5 inch from bottom of net pot. Put water level right below seed. Tap root was wet. Nutrients were to seedling strength and ph to 6.0

2 days later didn't seem like it was doing anything(maybe not enough time). I wasn't sure about if I should be doing just ph water or to add the nutrients. And when it didn't seem to be doing anything. I just decided it must before adding the nutrients too early.

So I dumped the bucket and did just rooting supplement (OG Organics Ancient Earth) and ph water to 6.0 and Thought the seedling was too low in net pot. So I moved it up a few mm. And I would just raise the water level. Well 2 days later seedling was dried up and dead. Water was lower then seedlings tap root.

So I have a new one germinating(Amnesia Lemon Auto). But wanted to evaluate my approach. So I'm going solo cup to hydrobucket no rapid rooter sponge. No humidity dome

1st time grower made a attempt before but I never made it past veg. 3ft plant Died from root rot, spider mites in a areogarden like 8yrs ago

Maybe thats my 1st mistake, was not accounting for the few days of shock the plant will already experience just being transplanted in general...
 
go go kid

go go kid

Well-Known Member
as long as you have good airation of water or nutrient solution, you can plant the seedling directly into the water. i found it best to use plane ph'd water untill the first 2 leaves on the stem start turning yellow 1680565332204.png the round ones that protect the first set of true leaves. then add some nutrients,

less is more, you can add more if needed, but you cant take nutrients away once they have affected the roots. you can swap the solution out, but the dasmage is probably allready done.

when the first set of leaves start to yellow, its an indicator that nitrogen is required, so, start off in ph'd water, covering the roots, and then add nutes when the yellowing begins.
 
juschiln19

juschiln19

Active Member
go go kid said:
as long as you have good airation of water or nutrient solution, you can plant the seedling directly into the water. i found it best to use plane ph'd water untill the first 2 leaves on the stem start turning yellow View attachment 5277944 the round ones that protect the first set of true leaves. then add some nutrients,

less is more, you can add more if needed, but you cant take nutrients away once they have affected the roots. you can swap the solution out, but the dasmage is probably allready done.

when the first set of leaves start to yellow, its an indicator that nitrogen is required, so, start off in ph'd water, covering the roots, and then add nutes when the yellowing begins.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks man I Really Appreciate The Help!
 
warble

warble

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking this can be a learning opportunity. Potting soil in a solo cup could help give more of a margin of error. If you still want to do a DWC after the seedling pops some branches, take a cutting and do that deep water culture. I had a quite a bit of success cloning some ACDC cuttings with a plastic folger's bucket, and a small bubbler. I placed the stem about an inch away from the tap water and I added a a drop of superthrive. I changed the water every three days. (Overkill, yeah I know) I changed nutes every week, when I got the schedule figured out. I never got root rot, until my third grow (in flower) when I went away for a three day weekend. I should have changed my nutes before I left. You live, you learn. I now grow in coco coir, perilite, drain to waste.
Hang the tap root above the water line half an inch to an inch
Ensure there is no light getting to the roots
PH the res every other day
You don't need a lot of light, lowest setting if you can
Change out your res nutes every week after the plants need nutes
keep everything clean
You'll do fine.
 
juschiln19

juschiln19

Active Member
warble said:
I'm thinking this can be a learning opportunity. Potting soil in a solo cup could help give more of a margin of error. If you still want to do a DWC after the seedling pops some branches, take a cutting and do that deep water culture. I had a quite a bit of success cloning some ACDC cuttings with a plastic folger's bucket, and a small bubbler. I placed the stem about an inch away from the tap water and I added a a drop of superthrive. I changed the water every three days. (Overkill, yeah I know) I changed nutes every week, when I got the schedule figured out. I never got root rot, until my third grow (in flower) when I went away for a three day weekend. I should have changed my nutes before I left. You live, you learn. I now grow in coco coir, perilite, drain to waste.
Hang the tap root above the water line half an inch to an inch
Ensure there is no light getting to the roots
PH the res every other day
You don't need a lot of light, lowest setting if you can
Change out your res nutes every week after the plants need nutes
keep everything clean
You'll do fine.
Click to expand...
Thanks man I Appreciate the advice!
 
bubblescrogs

bubblescrogs

Well-Known Member
juschiln19 said:
Hello, basically I germinated a seed in a solo cup ph 6.0 for 2 days. moved it to a paper towel (not sure why i felt the need to do both methods) for 2 days. It had a tap root about a qurter inch long. Moved it to hydrobucket about 1.5 inch from bottom of net pot. Put water level right below seed. Tap root was wet. Nutrients were to seedling strength and ph to 6.0

2 days later didn't seem like it was doing anything(maybe not enough time). I wasn't sure about if I should be doing just ph water or to add the nutrients. And when it didn't seem to be doing anything. I just decided it must before adding the nutrients too early.

So I dumped the bucket and did just rooting supplement (OG Organics Ancient Earth) and ph water to 6.0 and Thought the seedling was too low in net pot. So I moved it up a few mm. And I would just raise the water level. Well 2 days later seedling was dried up and dead. Water was lower then seedlings tap root.

So I have a new one germinating(Amnesia Lemon Auto). But wanted to evaluate my approach. So I'm going solo cup to hydrobucket no rapid rooter sponge. No humidity dome

1st time grower made a attempt before but I never made it past veg. 3ft plant Died from root rot, spider mites in a areogarden like 8yrs ago

Maybe thats my 1st mistake, was not accounting for the few days of shock the plant will already experience just being transplanted in general...
Click to expand...
Yeah the initial shock can really take a toll. Especially if you’re going from a CFL to LED or big temp/humidity changes. Double especially if you’re pulling it out and repotting. How big are the net pots you are using? Mine are about 4” deep, so i fill it almost to the top and plant straight in there. Helps for a bit of stability once they get big. As others have said, doesn’t really matter on the nutes at first, ph’d water with the rooting supplement is fine for first couple weeks. I’ve found it better to hand water a few times a day and let the roots make their own way down. Otherwise they get lazy and don’t develop a good root system. I also found the ones in the aerocloner are easier to transition into the buckets, since they’ve already got some roots but you can do the same with rapid rooters or whatever. Also make sure your humidity is high the first couple weeks (~90%), the more humidity the less they will try to feed. You don’t want them trying to feed hard when they have no root system or they will suck it out of the leaves and die real quick.
 
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bubblescrogs

bubblescrogs

Well-Known Member
I don’t have any pics from when I transplanted these ones but should give an idea what I mean about the net pots
1680574729374.jpeg
 
juschiln19

juschiln19

Active Member
I have 6" net pots. I believe its the same depth about 4". I'm attempting to take the seedling stright from solo cup( no Rockwool or rapid rooter) to hydrobucket. just seed in solo cup 2 days in dark and tap root starts to emerge and moving to hydroton in hydrobucket.

Thanks for the advice! I Appreciate it!
 
bubblescrogs

bubblescrogs

Well-Known Member
juschiln19 said:
I have 6" net pots. I believe its the same depth about 4". I'm attempting to take the seedling stright from solo cup( no Rockwool or rapid rooter) to hydrobucket. just seed in solo cup 2 days in dark and tap root starts to emerge and moving to hydroton in hydrobucket.

Thanks for the advice! I Appreciate it!
Click to expand...
I’d go the rooters for sure. It’s just less stress when they are most vulnerable, since you can drop it straight in the hydroton with everything intact and some established roots. I’ve seen some doing the seed/tap straight in but it’s risky business since it can move or even fall into the bucket before it gets established. Is there a reason you want to get them into the buckets so quick? I’d just go rooters for a week, into the buckets and hand water for another week. Then they’ll be off to the races
 
juschiln19

juschiln19

Active Member
bubblescrogs said:
I’d go the rooters for sure. It’s just less stress when they are most vulnerable, since you can drop it straight in the hydroton with everything intact and some established roots. I’ve seen some doing the seed/tap straight in but it’s risky business since it can move or even fall into the bucket before it gets established. Is there a reason you want to get them into the buckets so quick? I’d just go rooters for a week, into the buckets and hand water for another week. Then they’ll be off to the races
Click to expand...
I figured if u could get it growing in the bucket sooner.. Then the sooner u get it established the more time u have to grow it bigger And secondly its a auto flower and its only 8 weeks from seed to cut down. I figured lossing a week to get established in a rooter is wasted time. So I saw a video going seedling stright to hydrobucket. Thought that would be the answer..
 
bubblescrogs

bubblescrogs

Well-Known Member
juschiln19 said:
I figured if u could get it growing in the bucket sooner.. Then the sooner u get it established the more time u have to grow it bigger And secondly its a auto flower and its only 8 weeks from seed to cut down. I figured lossing a week to get established in a rooter is wasted time. So I saw a video going seedling stright to hydrobucket. Thought that would be the answer..
Click to expand...
Ahhh gotcha. Yeah not worth the hassle man. Handling a seed with a tap hanging out rarely ends well. Don’t sweat on the timing, these are 4 weeks in the bucket, you’ll have plenty of plant. And I’d bet good money they don’t finish 8 weeks from seed. I’ve never seen autos go that quick. I’d be surprised to see it go under 12-14 tbh. They root quicker in the plugs than in the bucket

3E91F464-3F21-4ADB-8BA4-8597D43F1BFD.jpeg
 
bubblescrogs

bubblescrogs

Well-Known Member
juschiln19 said:
Maybe the ancient earth is too strong. It says at all growth stages 2ml per liter.
Click to expand...
Nah that’ll be fine. Probably more environmental. I’d have the LED up closer to the roof of the tent to start and bring it down once they have their true leaves. Just back it off if they aren’t happy. Make sure they are warm (like 28-30 degrees Celsius) and give the plugs a misting a few times a day. Some are slow to start so don’t stress if they aren’t exploding roots after a week, they will soon and then you can move them. Heat mat can help if you can’t get the temperature up. But try get an adjustable temp mat if you do, some get pretty toasty. I usually sit the plug on top of some perlite to take the sting out of it. If they are slow it’s usually either genetics or they are cold.
 
juschiln19

juschiln19

Active Member
bubblescrogs said:
Nah that’ll be fine. Probably more environmental. I’d have the LED up closer to the roof of the tent to start and bring it down once they have their true leaves. Just back it off if they aren’t happy. Make sure they are warm (like 28-30 degrees Celsius) and give the plugs a misting a few times a day. Some are slow to start so don’t stress if they aren’t exploding roots after a week, they will soon and then you can move them. Heat mat can help if you can’t get the temperature up. But try get an adjustable temp mat if you do, some get pretty toasty. I usually sit the plug on top of some perlite to take the sting out of it. If they are slow it’s usually either genetics or they are cold.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks man, I Really Appreciate the help!
 
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