DWC Nutrient Burn Question

Smootherpete · May 6, 2014

I was feeding my dwc bubbler too hard now I have a case of nutrient burn/ lock out/ nitrogen toxicity. Instead of running pH balanced water only, I changed the water and reduced nutrient solution from 1200 to 600 ppm until I see improvements. Is this good enough or must I absolutely flush?

house34 · May 6, 2014

Any pics? How bad was the burn? How long was your girl in the nutrient solution that was too high?

Smootherpete · May 6, 2014

house34 said:
Any pics? How bad was the burn? How long was your girl in the nutrient solution that was too high?

She had been in high strength solution since she had roots, she was growing well and healthy until she started to flower. I'll post pics tomorrow.

Smootherpete · May 7, 2014

Here she is with 6 weeks of 12-12 now, no real change during the last 2 weeks. I was at 1200ppm, took it down to 600, and now...for lack of advice from RIU users whom ignored my request for help, *pointing at everyone* I decided to leech for a day or two...what should I set my ppm too after?

esinohio · May 9, 2014

I'm certainly no expert but there appears to be multiple issues here. Looking at the leaves you've already spotted the burn issues along the outside of some of the leaves. The brown spots in the leaves looks like a calcium deficiency. Probably caused by your burn issues. Too much Nitrogen and/or Potassium? Hard to say from the pics but the upper leaves also appear a much deeper shade of green than the lower leaves. From what I've read sometimes too much nitrogen can cause that. You may have been on the edge to nitrogen toxicity.

What does your feeding schedule look like? What nutrients are you using? Ph? Res temps? Etc.. Etc.. Etc. Looks like we need to dial in the mix of nutrients as well as the total ppm.

house34 · May 9, 2014

I agree with Esinohio. I would set ppm's at about 800. I find that the return on investment above that is nullified by the possible problems that can come with pushing the envelope. Ph seems more stable at that ppm level as well. Proper ph is more important than having high ppm nutes because if the ph is wrong the plant can't uptake the nutes it needs. Often times this creates issues in the plants that is thought to be a deficiency or excess in the nutrients when the nutrients may be there but the plant cant uptake them. In any event if you're using good nutes changing the reservoir and proper ph will assure that the plant has what it needs.
How is the root growth? Res temps? Are you using beneficial bacteria?

Spanky84 · May 11, 2014

If we are talking about 0.5 conversion factor, I'd never go over 600ppm (1,2 mS) and have found my plants don't like it above 800 mS (400 ppm @0,5) at all.

Smootherpete · May 11, 2014

house34 said:
I agree with Esinohio. I would set ppm's at about 800. I find that the return on investment above that is nullified by the possible problems that can come with pushing the envelope. Ph seems more stable at that ppm level as well. Proper ph is more important than having high ppm nutes because if the ph is wrong the plant can't uptake the nutes it needs. Often times this creates issues in the plants that is thought to be a deficiency or excess in the nutrients when the nutrients may be there but the plant cant uptake them. In any event if you're using good nutes changing the reservoir and proper ph will assure that the plant has what it needs.
How is the root growth? Res temps? Are you using beneficial bacteria?

Nute temps were fine, below 20 celcius and pH at 5.8 to 6.0 and I was putting a cup of EWC, ZHO and aquashield tea once a week. All that dosen't matter now, the stress was too much for her and she started to turn hermie and she was just too big to watch all buds for flowers. She is drying right now, still lots of trichs on her sticky buds. I have some clones finishing and some BC blueberry in the veg room for next grow.(No more bag seeds) I will try anther bubbler next winter. I don't have a chiller so I'll stay away from DWC for the summer. Coco coir for now, like the one in my profile picture, she'll be ready in 2 weeks or so.

house34 · May 11, 2014

I don't have a chiller either, I bought a case of cheap bottled water for about $2. I put them in the freezer and every day I put one in each reservoir when I check the ph. Also I bought hot water heater insulation and insulated my reservoirs. I struggled with res temps until I took those steps as suggested by some Rollitup members.

DWC Nutrient Burn Question

Smootherpete

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house34

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Smootherpete

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Smootherpete

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esinohio

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house34

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Spanky84

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Smootherpete

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house34

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