Do I need outside air if i get co2 enrichment?

h2alo1

Well-Known Member
I am very confused. In my basement, i have a small, normal basement window. If i get co2 enrichment and put all the necessary equipment in the grow tent such as the duct, inline fans, charcoal filter etc. Will that eliminate the need for me to have to get air from outside? I'd rather not have to break my basement window to hook up intake and exhaust, but if i have to i will. Thanks for the help.
 
if you planning on using co2 here is a good post I copied off another board
I want to compliment you on your sound thought! I was happy to hear that you want to dial in your room prior to adding CO2. Because you HAVE to be dialed before CO2 will add any benefit to your grow. Actually, if you don't get it dialed, right away, you'll be doing more harm than good! This is very important.

I've learned that a sealed room is a big commitment. It's important to know what that commitment involves to help determine if you have the resources, space, and lifestyle to support it. If not, then you'll cause yourself more headaches and problems than it's worth.

That said, let's think about a sealed space. It's sealed from the atmosphere, which means it doesn't exchange air with the outside. (For the sake of conversation, we're not going to worry about trival air mixing like entering and leaving the room during normal visits to the room) Any moisture in the room will stay in the room. Any heat added to the room will stay in the room (assuming it's insulated well). Moisture, whether it's in the air, or in a reservoir, is all still in the room. A dehumidifier will remove it from the air, cool it down and dribble it out of a hose for you. It also adds heat to the room... Heat, by the way determines the dew point in the room, which is when the moisture in the air condensates back into liquid water, and falls where it will. As you can see, water has a very specific lifecycle in a sealed grow room. You MUST control every aspect of this lifecycle to have any degree of success. This is a non-negotiable fact, based on sound science.

A perfect environment is a fine balance of your control of temperature, humidity, and fluid management. That's just to control the environment, if you want to actually grow plants in there, you also have to maintain a balance of CO2 in the air and oxygen at the root zone. There' some pretty basic science behind this, and a whole lot of trial and error. Unfortunately, trial and error is expensive and it takes a lot of time to sort out. I probably don't have to tell you that, as you've already figured that out.

No ifs ands or buts about it, you need the following, at minimum to successfully run a sealed room:

1) Environmental controller. This is the backbone of the whole operation. It will automatically control all hardware needed to control the individual elements. It's the brains of the whole thing.

2) Split-type air conditioner. Split type means there's no mixing of inside and outside air. Window units and the "portable" R2D2 looking units on wheels won't cut it. The power of the AC unit is dependent on on the number of lights in your room, and it's size. The A/C unit does only two things, and is the most critical piece of hardware in your room. It transfers heat outside of your room, and condensates the moisture out of the air, so it turns it back into liquid water again. Your A/C will do most of the work in maintaining good humidity levels in the room. The environmental controller will turn this on and off as needed.

3) Dehumidifier. This will pick up what the A/C unit didn't get. It will run during the lights off cycle than lights on cycle. The environmental controller will turn it on and off as needed.

4) Heat source. This will be needed when your grow lights, and every fan, ballast, pump, and other sources of heat in the room aren't keeping it warm enough. The environmental controller will turn this on and off as needed.

5) C02 source. This can come from a gas powered generator, or out of a compressed air cylinder. You can research which is best for your space and lifestyle. Keep in mind that a gas burner will not only add c02 to the room, but heat, and water (as vapor/moisture), too. The environmental controller will turn this on and off as necessary.

After all that, you have to do something with all the moisture in the air. The A/C and the dehumidifier will return a condensate. You must plan on this dribbling water 24/7, and have something to do with it too. This is can be tricky to balance, if you don't just run it out of the room and drain to waste. Keep in mind that when water turns to vapor, it leaves most of the elements (nutrients or contaminates) behind. So the condensate that is returned is nearly perfect water! This is a tremendous resource, so you should use it.

Water is added to the room in two ways: 1) via your reservoirs, or other method of watering plants (whether you carry it in by bucket, or it flows through hard plumbing, is insignificant, but that's main source of water entering the room. 2) by a gas CO2 burner.

Water can be removed from the room in two ways: 1) drain to waste outside the room (down a drain, or be the envy of the neighborhood and apply it to your lawn.) and 2) In the stalks and stems of any plant material that leaves the room to be dried elsewhere.

The reason your dehumidifier runs 24/7 is because it's heating the air, and condensating the water/ The water is evaporating into the heated air, and the cycle continues. You must remove water from the room, and reduce the heat to control your humidity problems.

FYI, I'm writing a book as an introduction to growing, as we speak. If it has any degree of success, I plan to follow it with an advanced and detailed manual of how to run a sealed room.

I hope you get some kind of value from this. Let us know what you decide to do!
 
Oh ok thanks that will make my job way easier. I thought i was going to have to break my window.
 
If a grow room is "dialed" in everything is perfect and in working order.If your grow room is dialed in you wouldn't have to ask any questions about growing cannabis.GL.peace



Edit:just proofread my post,I didn't mean to sound like a smartass:)
 
when your room, nutes, and strains are dialed in its larger yields for much less work. like going from 10-12oz harvest to 36-42oz harvest using same strains and less plants in same room, just learning with each harvest and applying it to the next.
 
Short answer is yes. You need to do total room air exchanges a few times a day depending on the size of the room and the total ppm your co2 is running. Like quick example I exchange my air in my 4x4 tents with co2 running 1500 ppm at 30 minutes before the next co2 injection as I have it set on a timer not a ppm monitor. If you have it on a monitor that continuely pumps the co2 levels to a preset then I would exchange the air 3 times a day. This will allow new non stagnant air to replenish the grow area.
 
i completely disagree. there is absolutely no need to "replenish" the air in a sealed room supplemented with co2. what good does it do? what stale air? plants want the co2 and produce o2. the whole idea of sealed and running co2 is to have total environmental control, why start over every 4-6 hours and waste the ac'ed air? not to mention the co2 you paid to make.
 
A little harsh, but if you need to ask this question your really not ready for CO2 as you don't have the single slightest idea of how the fuck plants work.

Plants transpire in the day and respire at night.

Do some google dude...its fuckibg free! You think fucking Heisenburg didn't know what a covalent bond was before he started cooking meth? Well guess what, now your Jessie. "Yeah SCIENCE!"

Anyone who states you have to get rid of "stagnant air" is quite simply a fucking retard. "Stagnant"? What the fuck is the definition of stagnant BTW? How many PPM of stagnant is too much? LOL. "Ohhh the plants need "fresh air" like i do because i hate a stuffy room.

Air is mostly nitrogen. Even if you we're dumping co2 full bore.. Like 10,000 PPM. There would still be plenty of air for them to respire at night.

Put the bong down for juuuust a second. Plants absorb co2 during the day and offgas o2. I think my 5yo knows this. Sooooo, if your using co2 properly, with higher temps and light intensity..guess what? They make MORE o2. When the lights go off...OMG! The plants absorb O and offgas CO2 but at a drastically lower rate then what is fueled by photosynthesis. Ergo.. The plants would never run out of o2 during the night.

PS. Never trust a guy "using" CO2 without a proper PPM CO2 controller. There is absolutely no way of knowing what the true level is in the room there are FAR too many variables. "Get rid of stagnant air", that's pretty fucking funny really
 
I would advise against starting some kind of "I know this stuff better than you war with me"

So troll this (bitch)

http://www.blm.gov/pgdata/etc/media...A/cfodocs/howell.Par.2800.File.dat/25apxC.pdf

The EPA safety standards for co2 exposure don't even come into play until 30,000 PPM
At 50,000 ppm (5% co2) you would start breathing heavy and noticing something wasnt right. so basically it would take a co2 concentration 500% higher than 10,000 ppm before you would even realize it.

Plants will take 10,000 ppm all day long. I shocked my room with an average of 14 for 24 hours to "kill bugs" Doesn't work, simply a grower myth. Did research later and found a toxicology report for using co2 to kill pests in grain silos. It's around 100k

As a rule, don't just post up shit like you know WTF your talking about unless indeed, you know what you are talking about.

An air tank in a 10,000 ppm room... Fucking stupid
 
GOD DAMNIT YOUR RIGHT!!!

My apologies, you know the info!!!!!

Honestly, I think where i went wrong is not remembering I had my co2 on a cycle timer and not on a co2 controller.
I had the controller at the time but hadn't set it up and just plugged it in to see the levels periodically.

I must have been cooking myself with over 10000 ppm!

I'm surprised your reply was not more harsh, I take what I said back.
 
No problem dude, it was more amusing to me that anything else. I generally try to give solid advice, if people want to reject that information because it doesn't fall into their current understanding of things then so be it. I don't know everything, far from it, but I have a pretty solid handle on the whole botany and environmental conditions thing.

Anyways, I really doubt you were at 10,000 ppm. When I did the "co2 bug bomb" in my flower room I had the burner cranking full bore and I still couldn't get above 10k, I pulled an old bottle out of the closet and had to open that one up as well. I even had to get a different PPM meter from the office as my CAP controller only went up to like 3,000 ppm is I remember correctly.

and here is the disclaimer so I stop getting e-mails from this one guy who is saying the personal exposure limits are lower than the EPA listed values and that I am being irresponsible.

I am NOT advising anyone to go above the standard co2 greenhouse concentrations of 1500PPM. The long term exposure rates are lower than those listed by the EPA. Furthermore, don't try and kill bugs with massive co2..it doesn't work or at least it doesn't at the rates you could achieve using standard equipment.

On another note... I came across a story where a guy suffocated in a tree well while skiing. since co2 is heavier than air it settles in these depressions. The measured co2 level in the well was around 50%. how much would that suck!!
 
I set up an C.A.P Enviromental controller with Fuzzy Logic (does not overshoot selected ppm's),
I have it set at 1500 ppm's,
A foot above the plant canopy so it should be a little more at canopy levels, but im not getting on my knees to use this thing so its a little higher.
It is attached to 50lbs Co2 tank.
Tank disperses into lung room, then a 12" inline fan attached to an elbow pumps it into the tent and upwards.

I chose the Co2 tank instead of a burner, appearantly a burner gives out moisture AND heat?

Too bad about the skiier...
 
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