DIY T-Slot Aluminum Light Frame/Fixture Advice Wanted

2

2com

Well-Known Member
I'd like some advice and insight on building with "2020"/"8020"/"1010"/etc. t-slot aluminum extrusion (8020.com, tnutz.com, etc.)

I've been making fixture out of anodized angle aluminum for a while now. I've been wanting to progress to this t-slot style aluminum profiles. I want to use as few parts as possible, and I want the fixture(s) to be somewhat adjustable for the spacing between two or more leds (mounted to heatsinks).
Heatsinks: Slate 2 (singles), and the SSTX used for the QB96 elite V2.

In the past I'd use angle, and make a rectangle frame, mounting the heatsinks to the frame. But I'd always wanted to be able to move the boards closer together or further away from each other to adjust the footprint, etc.

I'm trying to think of a way to use two pieces of t-slot for "side rails" (the long sides of a rectangular frame) with no "end pieces" (but that might not be possibl). These would be the two rails that the leds/heatsinks could slide along for spacing. It might require ends, that's ok.
If I could easily attach some tnutz to the sides of the heatsinks, that would allow them to be slid into the two rails, but there would be no way to fasten them down that way, from my understanding of the system. I don't think it'd work quite like that.
Then I thought I could fasten some short length of aluminum angle to the heatsink, and use the perpendicular surface of aluminum angle to do the mounting to the t-slot (like drill through that surface, put proper scew/bolt through it and into a tnut that's in the slot already. then I could tighten and loosen it etc).
I also see those "corner" pieces for tslot, and that might work too? Mount one or two per side of heatsink (could get pricey) and then I'd have another hole to fasten to the tslot/tnut.

That's it for now.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Interested in seeing what you come up with.
2com said:
In the past I'd use angle, and make a rectangle frame, mounting the heatsinks to the frame. But I'd always wanted to be able to move the boards closer together or further away from each other to adjust the footprint, etc.
Click to expand...
I could see just making different holes on the angle so you can move the heatsinks.
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
Interested in seeing what you come up with.

I could see just making different holes on the angle so you can move the heatsinks.
Click to expand...
Yea, I had thought of that and/or a continuous 'slot' for even more "adjustment" (slot too difficult and too much work without a proper tool). I decided not to because getting the height and alignment for the holes to run through into the holes, and offset from the outside vertical of the angle, I figured it would be an completely infuriating route.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
A slot would be easy to do on the aluminum angle if you have access to a mill. Dunno how much structural integrity would be lost.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
RoldUpAsOvrKs said:
I know this isn’t what you’re going for at all but saw this at my local store and thought it was pretty sweet (your post made me think of it)...scrog individual plants...wheels so you can move...I guess you could even do a light mount if you wanted...?
Click to expand...
What exactly is that product called? Who makes it? What is the price? (I can't read the signage). First thing I would probably do is shorten those legs, I wonder if they are adjustable. That would be sweet to be able to roll around big trellised trees.
 
R

RoldUpAsOvrKs

Member
Renfro said:
What exactly is that product called? Who makes it? What is the price? (I can't read the signage). First thing I would probably do is shorten those legs, I wonder if they are adjustable. That would be sweet to be able to roll around big trellised trees.
Click to expand...
Sign said ask about pricing so depends on quantity I’m guessing. I’m thinking it’s probably just a local fab shop or grower that is making them. Next time I’m in there I’ll get some additional info...
 
diggs99

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Sorry for my confusion but I’m not quite understanding the dilemma.

I built my lights with the tnutz extrusions and just using the tnutz screws and washers I can easily adjust all of my heat sinks/ light strips however I want. They slide back and forth in the given slot. Or I can tighten the screws Completely and they won’t move at all.

the only restrictions I have is the wiring , obv I can only move as far as my wiring allows.

Or am I totally missing the point of this post?
Sorry, just getting back into the game, a little rusty it seems lol
 
diggs99

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Any of the screws tnutz are selling will work for sliding inside the corresponding extrusions, they are designed with the hidden washer that allows you to tighten and loosen them as you see fit.

I would just buy end caps for the 2 rails so nothing can fall out

unless I’m totally missing the point, my apologies lol
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
RoldUpAsOvrKs said:
I know this isn’t what you’re going for at all but saw this at my local store and thought it was pretty sweet (your post made me think of it)...scrog individual plants...wheels so you can move...I guess you could even do a light mount if you wanted...?
Click to expand...
Yea, this is a completely different topic, haha. But several have tried/done the 'individual mobile plant scrog' like what you show here. Cool.
 
bk78

bk78

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
What exactly is that product called? Who makes it? What is the price? (I can't read the signage). First thing I would probably do is shorten those legs, I wonder if they are adjustable. That would be sweet to be able to roll around big trellised trees.
Click to expand...
These would definitely be ideal for your trees
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
Ok, thanks for everyone's input. I did have a well written response but lost it; duno what happened. So I'll try again, quick like.

diggs99 said:
Sorry for my confusion but I’m not quite understanding the dilemma.

I built my lights with the tnutz extrusions and just using the tnutz screws and washers I can easily adjust all of my heat sinks/ light strips however I want. They slide back and forth in the given slot. Or I can tighten the screws Completely and they won’t move at all.

the only restrictions I have is the wiring , obv I can only move as far as my wiring allows.

Or am I totally missing the point of this post?
Sorry, just getting back into the game, a little rusty it seems lol
Click to expand...
Missing the point somewhat, I'd think.
DarkWeb said:
Drill two holes, one at each end of the slot. Connect the dots with a carbide tipped circular saw or jig saw. Very simple. No need for a mill.
Click to expand...
Make a slot in some aluminum angle. Yes, thought of that. Very simple to think up. Not as simple to execute.
diggs99 said:
I drillled out all of my aluminum sinks with a drill and bit. Easy work , I set up a little jig to make sure every hole was in the precise location I wanted.
Click to expand...
Drilling aluminum isn't particularly difficult, yup. I know.
pulpoinspace said:
if you want them to slide individually i would just put end pieces on and then use big truss head screws into the heatsinks and slide the truss head into the t-slot. simple method.
Click to expand...
End pieces making any frame build "easier" or "better" I get. But I don't get the truss head screws suggestion, when I might as well just use tnuts...not sure specifically why you're suggesting these screws. Also, are you saying screw a tnut (or truss screw, whatever the case) directly to the heatsink? Won't work; can't tighten in place, and see dimensions of heatsink.
diggs99 said:
Any of the screws tnutz are selling will work for sliding inside the corresponding extrusions, they are designed with the hidden washer that allows you to tighten and loosen them as you see fit.

I would just buy end caps for the 2 rails so nothing can fall out

unless I’m totally missing the point, my apologies lol
Click to expand...
Tnuts will slide in the tslot, yes. Not sure about this washer you mention.
End caps? You mean the plastic squares that protect people/objects from getting hit by a sharp corner of aluminum? Or do you mean "ends", like two end pieces to this suggested light "fixture"? End *caps* won't help this scenario.


I think, if anyone still cares to chip in and "think it out" with me, things will be more clear if one actually looks at the heatsinks in question, and understands where their mounting holes are and how they're oriented. You immediately see that some figuring out needs doing.

The SSTX heatsink I think I have figured out. But will probably take two extra pieces of metal (brackets) per heatsink, and either two or four tnuts per heatsink.

The Slate 2 heatsink I'm still not sure. I could maybe just come UP through the four corner holes with appropriate size (1/2-20, or m4, m5, m6, whatever) and *length* (not sure how to figure exactly, due to the tnut tightening system) to be able to come up through the bottom of heatsink, have enough length to pass the height of the fin(s), and then have just enough length/thread left to screw into the tnut and have it tighten properly. (I think having too long a bolt/screw makes it thread right through the tnut and hit the bottom of the tslot channel, and not properly "pull" the tnut "up/away" from the "bottom" of the tslot and grip the way it's supposed to.

The Slate 2 would therefore be mounted "underneath" the frame or "rails" in a way, which I don't like. But it may be the *easiest* or cheapest way to do it.
Or, mount two flat pieces of metal bracket along the longest sides of the Slate 2, using small bolts on either of the four outermost corners of the heatsink, so that there is about 1/2" to 3/4" overhang on each side. Then twist/bend that extra overhand 90* so that it's a vertical plane. Drill a hole in each of these "tabs", through which the bolt will go through and thread into a tnut.
(I also considered using angle, mounting to underside of Slate 2, so that the other surface (vertical) of the "L" angle aluminum would come upward giving me a place to drill through and run a bolt through into a waiting tnut. But the vertical surface of angle wouldn't come up high enough to even be above the heatsink fins.
So I'd have to get or bend up some brakets. The heatsinks would then hang a bit below the frames...but I guess that's ok... haha.


Make sense? Haha.

I need (want? haha) an accessible vertical surface to screw through into the inside tslots. You can't screw something into the heatsinks from the outside of the extrusion, this would be pointless anyway.
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
DarkWeb said:
Basic tools. Not complicated at all. Do you have any of these tools?




Or know anyone who does?
Click to expand...
I didn't say it was complicated. You said "very simple". I said it's simple to think of, or to know what tools might be used, but not so simple to actually execute.
I don't think you're actually envisioning each and every step of this, and the tricky parts of it, as though you were going to do it (not to mention the tediousness of it, especially if things are going to line up and fit nicely). You're kinda just showing me some tools that cut and drill, along with an idea.

Yes, I have all those tools and more.

I want to use tslot extrusion; I'm asking about tslot extrusion. I've kinda passed on the idea of using angle aluminum and trying to turn it into something with a slot in it (because I thoroughly considered it).
As the thread/op says, I want to move on from angle aluminum to tslot.

Thanks.
 
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