Diy FOTOP grow board 280x900x2.0mm (L29.52"xW9.18")

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Hey, I'm about to pull the trigger on the 600h-2 kit with heatsinks and the single 600 W meanwell driver. My grow space is 4x8, and shrinks to about 3x7 once the inline extractors kick in. I'm currently running a cheapo King Led Kingplus 3000W which is pretty dope for the price, though it covers merely 3x5 , and the side gyals are just hibernating. So I was hoping I can remedy the situation with this bargain of a QB. My idea was to run them high wattage as a one long ass bar so that the sides will of course have less par but not drastically less like it was before.
Another option would be stagger them slightly as it might be a tad too tight of a fit.
Here's some pics of the setup I'm currently boasting.
Yup, it's a 4x4x8 flipped on its side. Because reasons.
I used it upright in the previous grow and got very good results, uniform light footprint and very high quality yield, got 450 g's from 3 sativa gyals that where vegged for 7 weeks and scrogged.
They had so much dank on them, I make CBD oil 1:1, 1 gram = 1 ml of 20% concentration.
I got the idea to flip it on the side because I felt that the light might just handle the space, problem is that the side gyals are photperiods and got shaded by stretching autos in flower. Well that's why we experiment, to learn that we are idiots.
Hoping to get some good guidance here guys :)
Keep it growing y'all :)
Just to clarify, is your height gonna be 4ft?
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
You need more boards at less wattage for that. We used 5 boards, no heatsink, approx 150w each.

With 300w per board you wont be able to grpow 12" away.
 
Yeah if you are worried about bleaching , no sweat , it's the DLI that does it , not ppfd, that's why they will be running on a reduced time schedule ;) the only thing Im in doubt of is the footprint.
The panels will be hanging dead center one long bar, 180 cm wide, 30 cm broad.
That will make sure the center 2x7 across the board will be 1000ish ppfd, which gives me ~2x7 premium bud. Back and front sides will be at maximum 45 cm feet away from the sweet spot, which I believe should be around 500 ppfd in an open space, so in a mylar tent I would ballpark it at 550-600, which is not premium, but certainly not bad either. Currently I'm running my blurpie at 20 cm from the canopy, and only very mild light stress (leaves doin the taco move) due to lowered time span from 18/6 to 16/8, the problem is the gyals outside the sweet spot loose a shit ton of DLI due to shorter irradiation at already low par.
I guess no matter what, it will be worth it, it's doubling the sweet spot = double the premium bud. I was just curious about what kind of dropoff you guys experience at 2 feet away from dead center.
Ya know, the inner nerd can't help himself.
I looked at the maps, but they are irrelevant to my case due to no reflection and low wattage.

@OP
Could you pretty please try and make a map of one panel dead center 4x4 @ 300W, 12" and/or 18" away ?


That would diffuse any left over doubts.
I'm also not buying more stuff untill this pays back, I'm conservative like that, so no, no more boards in my 3x7
 
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Moflow

Well-Known Member
If you haven't pulled the trigger why not order 4 x boards, no driver no heatsinks?
Purchase your drivers locally. 2 x mw 240h 48A just need to build a frame, it's really easy
Surely it'll be a similar price?
 
If you haven't pulled the trigger why not order 4 x boards, no driver no heatsinks?
Purchase your drivers locally. 2 x mw 240h 48A just need to build a frame, it's really easy
Surely it'll be a similar price?
Unfortunately I live in Denmark, where any shit clerk in here earns 20-25€/h
So you can imagine things that stay long on shelves , add zeroes to the price tag.
Long story short, locally-shmally, that's the whole point of ordering from China so I skip the bullshit, amirite ?

So you are thinking 4 boards going like this
[ == ] ?
Yeah I see why the lower watts then.
But 400 watts ? Are you sure that's enough for a 3x7 ? That's like below 20W per square foot ?
I guess you want me to have them very close to the canopy then.
And I skip the heatsinks too.
Hmm...
Sounds like a plan.
I'm gonna ask the Chineese being on Alibaba if s/he can reconfigure my order like you were saying.
Gotta wait for those autos to drop first though.
Thanks a bunch for good advice, I bet you know the feeling.
Fucking formulas and equations floating around my grow room and frustration intensifies :)
So far the babies are doing pretty much on point with the plan.
I was dumb enough to go for a 4 day festival, just when the autos started the stretch, so I couldn't manage the canopy after, therefore cbd babies in the sides got a little break now. But hey, it's wasted watts anyways so why not put them to work and keep'em hibernating untill the auto-jungle goes chop-chop.

Stay stealthy bois :)
 
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Viceman666

Well-Known Member
And what about you keep both light in the tent? Half the new led run a little smoother than 600watt maybe 480 driver..(i do like the 4 board options and put your kingplus in the other half? This way you’ll get full light accross the whole tent?

Also you mentionned with the sucking your tent goes from 4x8 to about 3x7.. ive put some pvc pipe in my tent to prevent that from happening was very cheap and worked well see the picture sorry its not the best picture I got but im not home at the moment. I attached my scrogging net with the tie wrap to it and at least you get the full 4x8 this way (mine is a 4x4)
 

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Honestly I don't think there will be space for anything else, these boards are 90cmx30cm
4 of them is like 180cmx60cm but ofc I will space them a little, so more like 180x80 cm, the tent is 100cm deep with sucky sucky on, that leaves like a tiny 10 cm gap in the middle between panels and 5 cm gap to the front and back walls. I think that was the point.
I could also just get a second blurpie, problem solved.
The reason I wanna go QB is to lower my electric presence ;).
I have a hard cap @600 W rule.
So OP's setup would actually give me some headroom for propagation.
That pvc trick wont do for me, forgot to mention that I cut 20 cm off the top supports, cuz my previous grow was in a low-ass attic.
There is just too much "skin" on the scaffolding to not get drastically bent inwards. This time around I got a proper room, but due to my last grow being strictly medicinal for my family members, I didn't earn jack shit on it, so my budget right now is hypothetical to say the least.
I'm waiting for the cash from the current cycle, then I will go guns blazing :)

Thanks for chiming in though, nice trick with that pvc :)

Im gonna stick with the OP's suggestion. I saw the readings he made @ similar watts and distance and it looks just about perfect to me :)

Thanks a lot again, I will keep y'all posted once the setup arrives.

Big up :)
 
By the way this Kingplus 3000 is basically Black Dog 600W but with the right price tag on ;) black dog is like 300 diodes @2W each, mine is 600 diodes @1W each, but two stacked under one lense. Pretty cool, huh ?
QB for the win though. Even Migro dude knows
 
They try to push 320W drivers + heatsinks for 970$ US, they claim 240 for 2 boards would be too little power to penetrate the canopy properly. Whaddaya think guys ?
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Well you don't have much headroom at moment - 4ft but 320 drivers would suit better if you eventually move your tent to it's original shape of 4x4x8
 
Well you don't have much headroom at moment - 4ft but 320 drivers would suit better if you eventually move your tent to it's original shape of 4x4x8
Yeah, that's what I thought myself.
I'm gonna go and run 4 fotop800 boards with 2 320's on the current setup, I think @ 160 W per board, with such uniformity in PAR over the whole area I can easily do with low headroom, I think it will take a lot of training and topping and all that jazz, bit it would effectively double my yield due to doubled grow area. I mean you only use a third/half tops of your tent if you keep it upright, mine is 70% filled up with biomass, so I'd even say that potentially it can triple the yield.
How much ppfd you are getting at 160W dead center ?
Do you think it'd be overkill to keep em like 10 cm away @ this wattage ? I can also get dimmers if it is.
Also good thing about QB is that is modular af, these boards right now will be in ultra eco mode , but I can also run them hot, if I change drivers out, and I already will have a nice ammount of boards for starters. Take that,electric sky ! ;)
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's what I thought myself.
I'm gonna go and run 4 fotop800 boards with 2 320's on the current setup, I think @ 160 W per board, with such uniformity in PAR over the whole area I can easily do with low headroom, I think it will take a lot of training and topping and all that jazz, bit it would effectively double my yield due to doubled grow area. I mean you only use a third/half tops of your tent if you keep it upright, mine is 70% filled up with biomass, so I'd even say that potentially it can triple the yield.
How much ppfd you are getting at 160W dead center ?
Do you think it'd be overkill to keep em like 10 cm away @ this wattage ? I can also get dimmers if it is.
Sounds good, get backto you tonite
 
S15665897551915272030221202230152.jpg o I'm totalling at 817$
That's 4x FoTops 800 v2 (with 660nm epistars)
2x HLG-320H-48AB drivers + all the wiring , hanging and waterproofing kazoo.
I ditched the dimmer bonanza, I mean the thing has built in dimming knob, so why bother. I'm keeping them outside the tent anyway.



Now I sit back, relax, smoke nice, and watch them sweat it, and offer me discounts :)
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Phone is on tthe fritz so ill be brief:

- youre space is going to be problematic, so low. Not just for hanging height but for environment: all that plant mass and so little volume, humidity /air movement is going to be a problem. If you make it thru with no budrot please post your build, im really interested. Also: on the side the hanging might be an issue: the structure is not made to hold weight that way, if you hang the boards across the long side (which is what id rec). Also you would need access from 2 sides to raise/lower to reach.

cheaper build:
ive done 2x1 m with fotops: 3 x 250w: hanging and distance between boards about 35 cm. No china heatsiink, only a 3 mm alu sheeet with about 5 cm sticking out from each side.
Better yet: 5 boards on 3 hlg240: each board covers 40 cm, 12 cm between boards, all connections run thru 2x 8way wagos. No heatsink whatsoever, hanging height about 20cm. This build can also flower with only 2 drivers, especially long flowering plants. With 500w you get about 600ppfd which is very respectable and eaiser to manage.

Price savers: dont buy kits, just boards. Lm561c boards are only around 80$ + shipping.
Drivers: buy from somewhere in europe, especially if they have long warranty like hlg. China drivers have slightly useless warranty.
Lrs-350-48 is 350w and about 40$ from digikey but should be kept out of your growspace, not water proof.
Heatsink: find someone who sells and cuts alusheet close to you. Yellowpages are better than google, check for construction supplies or similar.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
2 x 320W drivers plus 3 double-row 4 foot F series per driver, those fill a 4-foot tent real sexy for a hell of a lot less..
 
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