Diy FOTOP grow board 280x900x2.0mm (L29.52"xW9.18")

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
We have recently had time to test this board with a hydrofram par meter and i can more or less confirm the numbers at 200w and 300w per board. What we found lower wattage (50% dimmed hlg185-48A) is that the light levels drop of drasticly, to much less than half. Not sure why .But maybe our drivers dimm more, not sure as we only have max and min of dimming as refernce point. In any way happy with the boards at 200w, 2 of them over 1m2 tray with spread out cannopy blows hps/cmh away. In about a month we have some plants flowering under them.

Thermally, they work fine at 200w each with no heatsink.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
We have recently had time to test this board with a hydrofram par meter and i can more or less confirm the numbers at 200w and 300w per board. What we found lower wattage (50% dimmed hlg185-48A) is that the light levels drop of drasticly, to much less than half. Not sure why .But maybe our drivers dimm more, not sure as we only have max and min of dimming as refernce point. In any way happy with the boards at 200w, 2 of them over 1m2 tray with spread out cannopy blows hps/cmh away. In about a month we have some plants flowering under them.

Thermally, they work fine at 200w each with no heatsink.
@Rocket Soul , thanks for taking the time to post your test results.
At least they've been tested twice now with similar results.
What distance are you running between the boards?
What distance from the plants?
That's one FOTOP board per driver, hlg 185 48A that your using?
Have you any idea as to the FOTOP Boards efficiency from your testing or using the Samsung calculator?
Still, the boards were for a cheap enough price and I can attest that they can grow a good crop.
Thanks again.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
@Rocket Soul , thanks for taking the time to post your test results.
At least they've been tested twice now with similar results.
What distance are you running between the boards?
What distance from the plants?
That's one FOTOP board per driver, hlg 185 48A that your using?
Have you any idea as to the FOTOP Boards efficiency from your testing or using the Samsung calculator?
Still, the boards were for a cheap enough price and I can attest that they can grow a good crop.
Thanks again.
Yeah, 1 hlg185-48A on full per board, 30 cm/12'' between the boards gives us between 800-1000 par about same 30 cm to the sensor. 40 cm more even around 800. The wattage at board level should be slightly less than 200w, the drivr is speced at 3.9 amps.
Sorry about no exact numbers on current and volts, only broke out the par meter and temp gun. Just a temproary setup right now, will be getting stoff framed nicely within the next month. It will be ny friends first led grow, brought about by very high summer temps recently. The room next door is with lec 315s. We will see what works best for his situation.
Going beyond 300w the board heats up seriously. But nice and only slightly warm at 200.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Day 40 of 12hrs on 12hrs off for the 2 CBD Crews Critical Mass CBD
After chopping the SS2s I put these directly under the FOTOP Boards.
They were around 8" - 200mm away from the UV violet leds and I also realised the timer wasn't working properly and they were on for 12hrs!
Ive turned off the uv and raised the lights to 12" - 300mm as I think one of the plants was stressed with maybe the start of foxtail.
They stink to high dough.
I think they'll be finished faster this time as it's warmer now.
20180603_211131.jpg 20180603_211226.jpg
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's an UV damage example par exellence. Burned leaf margins..!
Seems more foxtailing is also an effect of UV, see my GreenPoison chopped last week.
But seems also strain depending. A SuperLemonHaze (last 3 shots) in the same tent doesn't look like this.

GreenPoison, ®SweetSeeds, 8-9 weeks.jpg still lots of fresh pistels at the top..@day 67.jpg lowest bud let's you think it's almost done but...jpg SuperLemonHaze, ®Greenhouse Seeds, 9 weeks.jpg Not realy a visible difference to non UVB buds.jpg the lowest side bud.jpg
 
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OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
yes..i coulda done it better..but under 5000k it was easily as good as any other cri...

it basically cured on the vine and despite not being terpy it was probably more potent than any sample i took from it along the way..plus it had a good... rich..not necessatily definable taste
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Thanks, mate!
Unfortunately I've not tried it yet! Only a bit of "scissor charras", but that is nothing to judge about the final potency... Bud's are still curing in the freezer and I'll leave it there for at least another two weeks.
But I already had the GP's before I've used UVB, so I can draw a good comparison here when curing is done..
With the naked eye there was no visible difference, IMO, and I broke my macro lens, (stepped on it, I dumbass:wall:) and I have such a stupid new dual lens camera now on my OP6, so I can't use the lens anyway.

And yea, it's hydroton...
But it's only a ~1-2" top layer powdered with diatom earth to exterminate shitty fungus gnats coming with the soil.
The layer also helps to keep the soil surface moist so the roots can use all the soil available.
 

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
i just attached 12 Estonian strips[first samsungs i ever bought]
to an 18 x 26 in hd baking sheet..
i removed the middle strip [ hard w thermal tape] so i can [if i want] mount a fan on top and go higher wattage..these are 4000 k i think..not that i care..

imho after you have anything from b-c s [whatever]
at any cri..the rest is really up to what you do with em..how you hang em

and your grow talent/environment

don't over think things just get growing

strips on baking tray.jpg
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Day 46 for the CBD Critical Mass.
Another 10 days for these. A bit battered from the UV but it'll harden them....
I put them to the side of the room and slotted in Sensi Star original and the two Royal Gorrillas.

CBD Crews Critical Mass CBD 2 plants, 2 phenos
20180610_182644.jpg 20180610_184426.jpg 20180610_182710.jpg 20180610_184534.jpg

Sensi Star original clone day 26 flowering
20180610_183238.jpg 20180610_184012.jpg
Ŕoyal Gorrilla RQS from seed 26 days flowering.
20180610_182543.jpg

The Royal Gorrilla is quite tall and the stems are firm so I've used bamboo supports.
The Sensi Star original I could tie in knots.
When I chop the CBDs I'll spread the branches out more.
 

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Moflow

Well-Known Member
I've reduced the grow area temporarily, by movable walls to a 4ft x 4ft - 1.2m x 1.2m and I'm now running at 470 watts at the wall. 30 watts per Sq ft.
The 2 x FOTOP BOARDS are running at 238 wall watts and the rest of the wall wattage - 232watts is spread over 2 gg boards and a 288 Quantum Board.
2656 mid range diodes. The plants are loving it.

Day 40 of 12hrs on 12hrs off.
2 x Royal Queen Seeds Royal Gorrilla plants
1 x Paradise Seeds Sensi Star original .

Royal Gorrillas at back, Sensi Star original at front.
20180624_211939.jpg
Lights are 8" - 10" from the Gorrillas and around 16" from the shorter Sensi but the gg board is directly over it so par readings are quite even.

Royal Gorrilla
20180624_184532.jpg
20180624_184809.jpg
20180624_185112.jpg
Sensi Star original
20180624_185211_001.jpg 20180624_212338.jpg

Royal Gorrilla
20180624_184337.jpg
20180624_212226.jpg

Sensi Star original

20180624_184212.jpg

Enjoy
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Wow, only 15% difference between center and wall measurings!
If you had told me that 10 years ago, I would have called you a liar .., lol!
Much better is only possible with additional sidelights.

I would like to see boards or strips with a closer diode spacings at both ends and wider spacings in the middle, would be simple way to increase the brightness at the ends by 10-20%.
I've only seen one light to date using a similar design to even out the coverage at the ends. The Envolve700 from ProGrowTech.

 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Wow, only 15% difference between center and wall measurings!
If you had told me that 10 years ago, I would have called you a liar .., lol!
Much better is only possible with additional sidelights.

I would like to see boards or strips with a closer diode spacings at both ends and wider spacings in the middle, would be simple way to increase the brightness at the ends by 10-20%.
I've only seen one light to date using a similar design to even out the coverage at the ends. The Envolve700 from ProGrowTech.

The only way for me to make the light fixtures throw an even nicer even spread would be to invest in a couple of better fitting drivers with dimming capabilities, I think, instead of those China drivers
I really need to use 2 x GrowGreen boards in parallel on the meanwell hlg 185 1050. Maybe re jig the FOTOP Fixture, make it 3x3 and put the ggs in the centre of fixture and dim them to fit the FOTOP par readings but haven't had much time at moment.
Ive a few cxbs and 1212s lying in corner gathering dust too! Lol
 
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