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Root Pruning 101
by Gaby Bronzstein2010-06-01Print Email
Plant roots are out of sight and for many indoor growers this means they are also out of mind. This is quite unfortunate as optimal root health is critical if plants are to achieve their genetic potential.
The following are the most common methods of root pruning:
Clippers
If done properly, root pruning with clippers can be effective. However, it is not practical for obvious reasons, primarily the shock to the plant, which results in delayed growth. Cutting roots leaves an open wound that can serve as a pathway for pathogens.
Chemicals
Sprayed copper containers have been used successfully to prune roots. When the root tips reach the copper-lined pots the roots are forced to branch as the copper can burn the root tip. While this method is quite effective at pruning roots and preventing circling, copper toxicity can be a problem.
Root constriction
This method of root pruning uses material that allows the root tip to grow through the material yet it constricts the plant from growing larger. Branching occurs as a result of the constriction. This system of root pruning has been used for years in tree farms. The benefit of using this system is that not only do you create a fibrous root system in the container but the roots grow into the ground making it easier to feed and water the plants while not having them blow over. Plants are moved by simply lifting the container from the ground, stripping away any roots growing through the container and then removing the in-ground container. This creates minimal stress as most of the roots are still in the container and those removed are small.
Three days after germination this cucumber is showing healthy white roots.
Air root pruning
Air pruning of roots is accomplished with the use of containers that direct the root towards air where the root tip is dehydrated, facilitating branching. Next, the roots are directed to an opening where they are pruned. The first attempts at air pruning containers involved putting holes or slices into normal containers. While increased growth rates were seen, roots were still wrapping and no root pruning was evident. Increased growth was attributed to more O2 in the root zone. What was learned from this was that the roots needed to be directed to the air holes.
The first effective air pruning containers where bottomless milk cartons on a wire bench. The first trials were conducted with seedlings. The tap root grew down to the bottom of the container, through the wire bench and was exposed to air. Branching would occur back along this root for about four inchesknown as the four inch rule.
The newest versions of air pruning containers offer unparalleled performance and create extremely fibrous roots. One option is shaped in such a way that when the roots hit the side wall they get directed downward into an air hole. This is where the air pruning takes place. This process is repeated again and again with the branching roots creating extremely fibrous root systems. Other air pruning containers have many more holes all around the container at the end of downward facing protrusions. This design allows the roots to find the air holes immediately when reaching toward the container wall. The downward protrusions direct the roots so that when they reached the air hole it is virtually impossible for the tip to escape being pruned. The angled protrusions on the containers also provide shade for the entire container keeping them much cooler than standard containers. These containers may dry out a little faster indoors, but they actually conserve water.
Fibrous roots create faster growing plants that have less transplant shock and greater yields.
Dr. Whitcomb
Root tip-trapping
In situations where water conservation is critical, root trapping bags are a great option for root pruning. Root trapping bags work by trapping the root in the fabric and forcing it to branch. Over 100 root tips can be pruned in just one square inch of fabric! Some root trapping bags are lined in white on the outside of the bag making it more durable and reflecting heat in the form of solar energy.
These containers can also be used with media like hydroton or perlite. This is because generally these systems get irrigated too often to allow hydration of the root tip in order to prune the roots.
Root tip-trapping is also shown to be extremely effective when placed under propagation media. Numerous experiments with a number of media and containers have shown that simply placing the root trapping material under rockwool or even a standard cell pack, for instance, will prune the roots that hit it forcing massive side branching of roots.
Proper root pruning is an extremely valuable tool for growers that grow at home. It has taken over 40 years to fully understand the best way to care for roots and today the options are virtually limitless.
Root Pruning 101
by Gaby Bronzstein2010-06-01Print Email
Plant roots are out of sight and for many indoor growers this means they are also out of mind. This is quite unfortunate as optimal root health is critical if plants are to achieve their genetic potential.
The following are the most common methods of root pruning:
Clippers
If done properly, root pruning with clippers can be effective. However, it is not practical for obvious reasons, primarily the shock to the plant, which results in delayed growth. Cutting roots leaves an open wound that can serve as a pathway for pathogens.
Chemicals
Sprayed copper containers have been used successfully to prune roots. When the root tips reach the copper-lined pots the roots are forced to branch as the copper can burn the root tip. While this method is quite effective at pruning roots and preventing circling, copper toxicity can be a problem.
Root constriction
This method of root pruning uses material that allows the root tip to grow through the material yet it constricts the plant from growing larger. Branching occurs as a result of the constriction. This system of root pruning has been used for years in tree farms. The benefit of using this system is that not only do you create a fibrous root system in the container but the roots grow into the ground making it easier to feed and water the plants while not having them blow over. Plants are moved by simply lifting the container from the ground, stripping away any roots growing through the container and then removing the in-ground container. This creates minimal stress as most of the roots are still in the container and those removed are small.
Three days after germination this cucumber is showing healthy white roots.
Air root pruning
Air pruning of roots is accomplished with the use of containers that direct the root towards air where the root tip is dehydrated, facilitating branching. Next, the roots are directed to an opening where they are pruned. The first attempts at air pruning containers involved putting holes or slices into normal containers. While increased growth rates were seen, roots were still wrapping and no root pruning was evident. Increased growth was attributed to more O2 in the root zone. What was learned from this was that the roots needed to be directed to the air holes.
The first effective air pruning containers where bottomless milk cartons on a wire bench. The first trials were conducted with seedlings. The tap root grew down to the bottom of the container, through the wire bench and was exposed to air. Branching would occur back along this root for about four inchesknown as the four inch rule.
The newest versions of air pruning containers offer unparalleled performance and create extremely fibrous roots. One option is shaped in such a way that when the roots hit the side wall they get directed downward into an air hole. This is where the air pruning takes place. This process is repeated again and again with the branching roots creating extremely fibrous root systems. Other air pruning containers have many more holes all around the container at the end of downward facing protrusions. This design allows the roots to find the air holes immediately when reaching toward the container wall. The downward protrusions direct the roots so that when they reached the air hole it is virtually impossible for the tip to escape being pruned. The angled protrusions on the containers also provide shade for the entire container keeping them much cooler than standard containers. These containers may dry out a little faster indoors, but they actually conserve water.
Fibrous roots create faster growing plants that have less transplant shock and greater yields.
Dr. Whitcomb
Root tip-trapping
In situations where water conservation is critical, root trapping bags are a great option for root pruning. Root trapping bags work by trapping the root in the fabric and forcing it to branch. Over 100 root tips can be pruned in just one square inch of fabric! Some root trapping bags are lined in white on the outside of the bag making it more durable and reflecting heat in the form of solar energy.
These containers can also be used with media like hydroton or perlite. This is because generally these systems get irrigated too often to allow hydration of the root tip in order to prune the roots.
Root tip-trapping is also shown to be extremely effective when placed under propagation media. Numerous experiments with a number of media and containers have shown that simply placing the root trapping material under rockwool or even a standard cell pack, for instance, will prune the roots that hit it forcing massive side branching of roots.
Proper root pruning is an extremely valuable tool for growers that grow at home. It has taken over 40 years to fully understand the best way to care for roots and today the options are virtually limitless.
has a far greater root mass than a comparable plant where the roots are circling on the inside of a plastic pot. And a greater root mass will grow a better plant.
