That makes sense. I found a few feed schedules that basically have it setup to feed just like your saying. One of the previous response posts linked a website that was very helpful too and even gave examples for my size pot.
Did I over or under feed
- Thread starter Erinr8
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CannaCountry
Well-Known Member
There you go...you'll get it figured out. Good luck friend.
Neubieauto
Well-Known Member
Definitely need more nutes. I am growing my first auto grow. I happened across this post looking at other people growing early miss. This is my early miss auto 14 days from germination in ffof and 33% perlite which should have enough nutes to last through week 4 or 5. You can definately tell a difference. How are they looking now?
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This is her day 10. Pretty small, so I'm not sure why such slow growth. I just lowered my led today in Hope's it will help. I'd be amazed if she looks like yours at the end of the week. But I have started feeding only water with nutes. I just let her dry out a few days first from the last watering.
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JohnDee
Well-Known Member
Erin,
You said that you did your own calmag charge on the coco. Did you also do a presoak to eliminate excess salt. Cleaning and preparing coco is a two step process.
What I'm getting at is this...your little stunted plant looks exactly like a seedling looks when the coco has residual salt hanging around.. Back a few decades...that was one of the problems new coco growers had regularly.
JD
You said that you did your own calmag charge on the coco. Did you also do a presoak to eliminate excess salt. Cleaning and preparing coco is a two step process.
What I'm getting at is this...your little stunted plant looks exactly like a seedling looks when the coco has residual salt hanging around.. Back a few decades...that was one of the problems new coco growers had regularly.
JD
No, I did not unfortunately
What can I do to fix that?
JohnDee
Well-Known Member
erin,
I recently made a sort of emergency purchase of a bag of Black Gold brand coco. I read on the label desalinized. I mostly buy bricks and soak and buffer them myself. This is an important step.
Anyway...I'd gently repot the plant in a different medium. And gently wash off the old coco. It can be done...I've done it myself. Plant will start growing again once it's not being stunted.
JD
I recently made a sort of emergency purchase of a bag of Black Gold brand coco. I read on the label desalinized. I mostly buy bricks and soak and buffer them myself. This is an important step.
Anyway...I'd gently repot the plant in a different medium. And gently wash off the old coco. It can be done...I've done it myself. Plant will start growing again once it's not being stunted.
JD
Ok thanks
I did some quick research on the coco coir I bought, and it is actually pre washed multiple times to prevent salt build up before packaging. So I'm thinking that isnt the issue. Here's an updated picture this morning shes actually looking a little better.
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JohnDee
Well-Known Member
OK...cool.
So make sure your feeds are proper for that age plant. 5.8 ph is best for coco and I'd be feeding light at maybe ec .5 or so. 300 ppm and make sure to add calmag only if you need it (like with ro water)
My water is pretty good...around 80 ppm so I add only a tiny bit calmag. To get Ca and Mg correct. Then if I need more Mg I use epsom salts.
JD
So make sure your feeds are proper for that age plant. 5.8 ph is best for coco and I'd be feeding light at maybe ec .5 or so. 300 ppm and make sure to add calmag only if you need it (like with ro water)
My water is pretty good...around 80 ppm so I add only a tiny bit calmag. To get Ca and Mg correct. Then if I need more Mg I use epsom salts.
JD
Ok cool thanks so much. I'm getting an ec reader in the mail today so I can make sure my nutes and water are good. I have a ph reader and have been around 6.0ph buy I'll aim a little lower.
I also thought calmag was a big need so I mat have been over feeding her that compared to the bloom and foliage nutes.
JohnDee
Well-Known Member
Well, it depends so much on the water you're using. With harder tap water...no calmag is needed. Dependent on what actually is in water. I'm having a bitch of a time getting a response from our water district.
But I filter out chlorine and chloramine and like I said...tiny amount calmag since I likely have some in the water already.
JD
Well I know my water is pretty hard because my humidifier gets so caked with calcium within one use and we dont drink the water unless its filtered. I dont filter the water for the plants, I just ph it to 6.0. Thinking I'll back up on the cal mag
So I just got my tds ec reader in the mail and it says my water is 800ppm so how do I get this to come down? I dont really know what this reader means exactly.
Cool, thanks so much for all your help, john!! I really appreciate it.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Wow 800 PPM. A water filter will really help, thing is with water that dirty you will want to have replacement filters on hand. Perhaps even put a large sediment filter in before the RO filter to help.
When the prefilters get dirty the unit will really slow down on production.
When the output PPM starts to rise the membrane is bad. I always replace post filters when I change the membrane.
I always have to replace the prefilters about 2 times before I need to change the membrane on the third. My tap is about 245 PPM. since you have 800 PPM you may have to change prefilters more times before the membrane is bad.
If you have low water pressure you may want an electric booster pump or a permeate booster pump.
You can setup a barrel with a drain valve in the lower side, set it on some cinder blocks. Put a float valve in the top side that is connected to the RO output. This barrel can then be used to store a bunch of filtered water. Toss a water pump in there to circulate the water, even provide a waterfall if you want to get it nice and oxygenated. Air stones will warm the water more and can cause pH flux.
When the prefilters get dirty the unit will really slow down on production.
When the output PPM starts to rise the membrane is bad. I always replace post filters when I change the membrane.
I always have to replace the prefilters about 2 times before I need to change the membrane on the third. My tap is about 245 PPM. since you have 800 PPM you may have to change prefilters more times before the membrane is bad.
If you have low water pressure you may want an electric booster pump or a permeate booster pump.
You can setup a barrel with a drain valve in the lower side, set it on some cinder blocks. Put a float valve in the top side that is connected to the RO output. This barrel can then be used to store a bunch of filtered water. Toss a water pump in there to circulate the water, even provide a waterfall if you want to get it nice and oxygenated. Air stones will warm the water more and can cause pH flux.
I think I got a little confused. My TAP water is around 249ppm, my nutrient solution that I made is 800pm