Deficiency in plant *Bloom*

Advanced Nutrient Rhino Skin
A/N Base A/B
Grotek Bud Booster
A/N Big Bud
Heavy 16 Prime
A/N Bud Candy
Green Eagle Mighty Boost

Grodan 6" cubes
3 1000 w lights (update on light brand later tonight)
Ph 5.9
Using tap water at the moment
Average around 76/45% t/H
Plants are showing signs of some type of deficiency around day 25. Thought it was potassium but wasn't successful in improving the problem with upping the potassium a little bit. Happened to a closet run a about a month ago and affected yield and ending taste of an otherwise beautiful growing and smelling plant.Buds stopped growing and started losing smell, bud was airy, leaves started getting pale spots and then it spread and they died. Trying to catch it before it gets to that point and is irreversible The strains we're working with are strawberry banana and sherbert. All nutes we use claim to be useable with other lines. Would love opinions on problem and solution.

Hydro shop dude must love you! How do you avoid nutrient antagonism with all that going on?

Bugeye said:

Hydro shop dude must love you! How do you avoid nutrient antagonism with all that going on?

Click to expand...

First two weeks is
Bloom Base
Bloom booster
Bud Candy
Mighty Boost

week 3-5 is
Bloom base
Big bud
Prime
Bud Candy
Mighty Boost

Week 6-7 is
Bloom Base
Prime
Bud Candy
Might Boost

Can you explain what you mean without the mini jab . Would like to solve the issue and could use other knowledge.

Try just the just nutes no additives ,like bugeye said too much going on

Too much pk products are upsetting nutrient balance and blocking the roots. This tends to burn the edges and tips from the potassium deficiency.

I would leech with fresh water and ad back a lower ppm of just balanced grow ratio complete nutes.

So switch to all one brand? Bud Candy is a Mag additive. Big Bud is my pk booster, prime is my "molasses" and the mighty boost is a terpene booster. Are you recommending not running a sweetener or a terpene booster? Or is the problem just needing to go back all to one line. As in replacing all non A/N nutes with A/N nutes. Bud booster(blaster?) with A/N Bud Ignitor, Prime with A/N Nirvana, and Mighty Boost with A/N Bud Factor X. I'm running the recommended amounts at the recommended time frame of each nute. What would you recommend the ppm be at to help balance the plants back out?

I see tiny white dots on that first picture, w/ possible heat stress same pic?

ghettostarz said:

First two weeks is
Bloom Base
Bloom booster
Bud Candy
Mighty Boost

week 3-5 is
Bloom base
Big bud
Prime
Bud Candy
Mighty Boost

Week 6-7 is
Bloom Base
Prime
Bud Candy
Might Boost

Can you explain what you mean without the mini jab . Would like to solve the issue and could use other knowledge.

Click to expand...

Mini jab? Perhaps, sorry! Anytime I see a list of product as long as yours with a headline asking about deficiencies, I have a good idea that the issue is not a deficiency, how could it be? Much more likely is that nutrients are being locked out (unavailable) because of nutrient antagonism. Too much of one or more elements will lock out availability of other nutrients. Google 'Mulder's chart' for visual reference of what I'm describing.

Lastly, the most expensive stuff in the store isn't necessarily the best. AN in particular is known to be over priced. There are a lot of opinions on nute lines here, mine is just another. Good luck with you crop!

ghettostarz said:

Advanced Nutrient Rhino Skin
A/N Base A/B
Grotek Bud Booster
A/N Big Bud
Heavy 16 Prime
A/N Bud Candy
Green Eagle Mighty Boost

Grodan 6" cubes
3 1000 w lights (update on light brand later tonight)
Ph 5.9
Using tap water at the moment
Average around 76/45% t/H
Plants are showing signs of some type of deficiency around day 25. Thought it was potassium but wasn't successful in improving the problem with upping the potassium a little bit. Happened to a closet run a about a month ago and affected yield and ending taste of an otherwise beautiful growing and smelling plant.Buds stopped growing and started losing smell, bud was airy, leaves started getting pale spots and then it spread and they died. Trying to catch it before it gets to that point and is irreversible The strains we're working with are strawberry banana and sherbert. All nutes we use claim to be useable with other lines. Would love opinions on problem and solution.

Click to expand...

Going a bit overboard with the bloom boosters for sure. Should stop any boosters by the end of week 5 and you're likely way high on P which should be lowered by the end of stretch along with N. Likely locking out K and maybe S as well which is the "secret" ingredient for boosting resin production.

For almost 20 years I've been using AN 3-part with low doses of Rhino Skin from early veg. Big Bud for my Bloom booster, a bit of Epsom salts here and there and once in a while I pulverize some of my own supplements to boost the plants overall health. Zinc w copper, Ascorbic acid, (vit C), B-complex, selenium, iron and mix it up with RO water that has 1Tbsp organic, unsulfered blackstrap molasses mixed in. Half doses of GrowTech Calmag throughout.

Got a 500ml bottle of Bud Factor X for free so trying that out to see if it would be worth buying. Tried the OverDrive and saw nothing different and the same with the Bud Ignitor.

Used that stuff in soil/soilless and about 50 DWC tubs and works fine so I stick to it.

From your pics I'd say that's nute burn kicking in and by week 5 or so you'll likely be getting old fan leaves going all crispy and dying from toxic salts buildup that will progress into younger leaves and even the little bud leaves by harvest time. With normal yellowing the leaves are soft and pretty. Even flushing now won't do more than slow it's progression. Would explain the problems you had in the closet run.

I think this is a case of too much, too often.

Bugeye said:

AN in particular is known to be over priced.

Click to expand...

Only if you buy all the overpriced, (and often redundant), supplements. The base nutes are often cheaper than the lower quality GH crap. Big Bud works better than anything else I've tried in two decades and I got a 500g jar of the powder for $80 almost two years ago that will last me for another 4 or so years. $40/gal for the 3-part so $10/L ain't bad at all. Never having to check pH is worth twice that.

ghettostarz said:

So switch to all one brand? Bud Candy is a Mag additive. Big Bud is my pk booster, prime is my "molasses" and the mighty boost is a terpene booster. Are you recommending not running a sweetener or a terpene booster? Or is the problem just needing to go back all to one line. As in replacing all non A/N nutes with A/N nutes. Bud booster(blaster?) with A/N Bud Ignitor, Prime with A/N Nirvana, and Mighty Boost with A/N Bud Factor X. I'm running the recommended amounts at the recommended time frame of each nute. What would you recommend the ppm be at to help balance the plants back out?

Click to expand...

I would recommend not falling for nutrient companies marketing nonsense and cut a bunch of the stuff you're using out of your grow. All those things with fancy names you're using are doing more harm than good.

Just noticed that you are using tap water. What's the specs on that and have you called your supplier to get a copy of their water analysis report so you know what's in it? Should be free and may be on your towns website. The mineral salts in that will contribute to toxic salts buildup too. The harder the water the worse it builds up in the soil, hydro and your plants.

OldMedUser said:

Just noticed that you are using tap water. What's the specs on that and have you called your supplier to get a copy of their water analysis report so you know what's in it? Should be free and may be on your towns website. The mineral salts in that will contribute to toxic salts buildup too. The harder the water the worse it builds up in the soil, hydro and your plants.

Click to expand...

This is a great point.

My well water was amazing for years so I just took that for granted.
Then over time the water smelled and was cloudy, toilet stains etc.

Still it was great for the plants.

The ppms were usually 100 never reaching over 250.

Long story short, you simply looking at ppm dont say much.

I had too much iron, and iron bacteria.

My spray cloner started sliming up
And so did the cut end of the clones
Needless to say that sucked.

Started messing even with rooted clones. Looked burnt

Like i said this shit really puzzled me because for years my water wasn't even a concern.

While not the best you can order an 8 way test from amazon and get an idea of iron content etc.

I solved my issue with chlorine treatment at the well, after that I added a whole house iron, sulpher, mag, filter. (it also filters the chlorine according to manufacturer)

That cured all but my drinking water
So under the sink with 50gpd ro filter.
Yes it wastes but so does constantly buying and disposing of water bottles.
And that's all I use it for is drinking

Now when you check my water ppm
After the iron filter the its still around 80 but testing no longer shows an iron abundance.



Moral of the story,
Your water is great until its not.

It was a nightmare figuring out exactly what I needed because there are tons of conflicting web sites.

As to the question can you safely drink ro?
According to the mayo clinic a healthy person drinking ro is not an issue.

Sorry this is so long, I needed to vent. Lol

Often times when I see people on here posting pics of plant problems and explaining everything is in range,
I suspect water.

charface said:

This is a great point.

My well water was amazing for years so I just took that for granted.
Then over time the water smelled and was cloudy, toilet stains etc.

Still it was great for the plants.

The ppms were usually 100 never reaching over 250.

Long story short, you simply looking at ppm dont say much.

I had too much iron, and iron bacteria.

My spray cloner started sliming up
And so did the cut end of the clones
Needless to say that sucked.

Started messing even with rooted clones. Looked burnt

Like i said this shit really puzzled me because for years my water wasn't even a concern.

While not the best you can order an 8 way test from amazon and get an idea of iron content etc.

I solved my issue with chlorine treatment at the well, after that I added a whole house iron, sulpher, mag, filter. (it also filters the chlorine according to manufacturer)

That cured all but my drinking water
So under the sink with 50gpd ro filter.
Yes it wastes but so does constantly buying and disposing of water bottles.
And that's all I use it for is drinking

Now when you check my water ppm
After the iron filter the its still around 80 but testing no longer shows an iron abundance.



Moral of the story,
Your water is great until its not.

It was a nightmare figuring out exactly what I needed because there are tons of conflicting web sites.

As to the question can you safely drink ro?
According to the mayo clinic a healthy person drinking ro is not an issue.

Sorry this is so long, I needed to vent. Lol

Often times when I see people on here posting pics of plant problems and explaining everything is in range,
I suspect water.

Click to expand...

I'm on well water too. We have a cistern so I run my RO waste back into the cistern. No waste!

Agree with you on water quality, so important and how dare it change on you!

charface said:

As to the question can you safely drink ro?
According to the mayo clinic a healthy person drinking ro is not an issue.

Click to expand...

That's all we drink here as our house water comes out of a dugout on my property and is only filtered down to 5 micron with no sterilization. We buy the water from a local store and it's consistently below 10ppm.

I add some pink Himalayan sea salt and a bit of coral calcium to the to the water I drink. A sprinkle of salt on top of the coffee when making a fresh pot too. The town water is as crappy as my water but they put chlorine in it so at least you wont get sick from pathogens but all the other crap in that water can't be good for you long term. Tastes like crap too and is from 300 - 400ppm depending on the season. Pretty high iron, sodium and carbonates.

My plants only ever get RO or distilled but my distiller broke down and the electricity cost just as much as buying the water from the store. I also use a small aquarium pump and stone to aerate my water prior to feeding to the plants to make sure it has as much O2 as possible before use.

charface said:

This is a great point.

My well water was amazing for years so I just took that for granted.
Then over time the water smelled and was cloudy, toilet stains etc.

Still it was great for the plants.

The ppms were usually 100 never reaching over 250.

Long story short, you simply looking at ppm dont say much.

I had too much iron, and iron bacteria.

My spray cloner started sliming up
And so did the cut end of the clones
Needless to say that sucked.

Started messing even with rooted clones. Looked burnt

Like i said this shit really puzzled me because for years my water wasn't even a concern.

While not the best you can order an 8 way test from amazon and get an idea of iron content etc.

I solved my issue with chlorine treatment at the well, after that I added a whole house iron, sulpher, mag, filter. (it also filters the chlorine according to manufacturer)

That cured all but my drinking water
So under the sink with 50gpd ro filter.
Yes it wastes but so does constantly buying and disposing of water bottles.
And that's all I use it for is drinking

Now when you check my water ppm
After the iron filter the its still around 80 but testing no longer shows an iron abundance.



Moral of the story,
Your water is great until its not.

It was a nightmare figuring out exactly what I needed because there are tons of conflicting web sites.

As to the question can you safely drink ro?
According to the mayo clinic a healthy person drinking ro is not an issue.

Sorry this is so long, I needed to vent. Lol

Often times when I see people on here posting pics of plant problems and explaining everything is in range,
I suspect water.

Click to expand...

Bugeye said:

I'm on well water too. We have a cistern so I run my RO waste back into the cistern. No waste!

Agree with you on water quality, so important and how dare it change on you!

Click to expand...

You guys just helped me realize just what is wrong with my garden since last summer. It was a dry summer and my deep well showed .2 ec total mineral content down from the steady .3 it had the first 2 years here.

The calcium in the water has dropped below a proper buffering level. All the old Grow books mention using water with 150 ppm for buffering.

Which I had last year when I had virtually no problems growing any strain or cross I tried.

Now at .2 ec (100 ppm) I have typical problems in transition and at week 5 or so.

It’s ph buffering. I need to incorporate more fresh water only or leach more often with fresh unadjusted well water.

Of course I have been doing this as a repair method all this time still puzzled.

Neat! Will adjust medium maintenance plan right away.

Bugeye said:

I'm on well water too. We have a cistern so I run my RO waste back into the cistern. No waste!

Click to expand...

The problem, albeit minor, with that is that the waste water from the RO unit is much higher ppm than the input water so will increase the ppm of the water in the cistern. Shouldn't make much of a difference as long as the cistern is replenished with fresh water once in a while like I'm sure it is.

OldMedUser said:

The problem, albeit minor, with that is that the waste water from the RO unit is much higher ppm than the input water so will increase the ppm of the water in the cistern. Shouldn't make much of a difference as long as the cistern is replenished with fresh water once in a while like I'm sure it is.

Click to expand...

My cistern water goes through a salt based water softener before it gets to the tap, another reason I need RO filtration. But thanks!

Bugeye said:

My cistern water goes through a salt based water softener before it gets to the tap, another reason I need RO filtration. But thanks!

Click to expand...

When I bought this place there was a water softener all hooked up for the dugout water but I put it on bypass 16 years ago. Water in was 400ppm, water from the tap was over 750. Soap don't suds up but still cleans as well. Pretty sure the system needed recharging etc but why the hell pay for that crap. Got a nice big brine tank I can use for storage once I get an RO system in there. Want to sell my Polar Bear distiller first to finance the RO unit. Was $3000 new. $600 will get me a decent RO and a UV sterilizer. A 5gal/day rig would suffice.

I don't know about nutrient lock out. People keep using that term, but it looks to me that the OP is poisoning that plant with too much stuff. I think that's all there is to it. Over fert is shown in dark green leaves with yellow/brown leaf tips, and that's what we see in the photo.