Dealing with the pH for a K-Train

chairroller

Active Member
Hello there,
Guys, I'm growing a K-train strain and the recommended pH is 5,5 .. any good process to get my water pH from 7 to 5,5 ?
Much appreciated,

Cheers !
 
I measured the soil's pH (exactly 6,8 ) .. if there is no good method to do this, I prefer not to try ( as you said, not getting hung up on it)

I stopped ph'ing my nutrients. I amend 1-1.5 tbsp/gal dolomite into the soil before planting (Fertilome Hy-Yield Agricultural lime). That helps buffer the soil ph.

Don't feed to heavily or use unnecessary things like "calmag" and your nutrient mix won't be more acidic than it needs to be. It's when you start using multi-bottle boutique "lineups" and force feeding the plant with heavy salts is when you have to ph your nutrient solution (which adds more salts).
 
I amend 1-1.5 tbsp/gal dolomite into the soil before planting (Fertilome Hy-Yield Agricultural lime). That helps buffer the soil ph.

Don't feed to heavily or use unnecessary things like "calmag" and your nutrient mix won't be more acidic than it needs to be

Cal-mag+ isn't going to break a that strong of a carbonate buffer. Adding cal-mag+ to lime fortified soil will not cause pH to drop, it will cause it to rise.

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ho/ho-241-w.pdf

"Calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate increase soil pH so should be avoided if pH is already too high."

Or if that's not enough... Here's a table by Oregon State University showing how much lime you should use to neutralize the acidity of various nutrients. Calcium nitrate is -1.4.

http://eal.byu.edu/Portals/100/docs/Additional Resources/Acidifying Soil.pdf

Table 2. Lime requirement of selected nitrogen fertilizers.
Lime requirement
Nitrogen source (pound lime/pound N)*
Ammonium sulfate 5.4
Ammonium nitrate 1.8
Anhydrous ammonia 1.8
Urea 1.8
Calcium nitrate -1.4
Mono-ammonium phosphate (MAP) 5.0
Manure, compost, and other organic sources varies
*A higher lime requirement indicates a more acidifying material

You really need to stop making stuff up.
 
Last edited:
I measured the soil's pH (exactly 6,8 ) .. if there is no good method to do this, I prefer not to try ( as you said, not getting hung up on it)

How did you measure the soil pH? Was it one of those $10 two-prong meters? (They're not too accurate/reliable. I have a $70 Control Wizard Accurate 8 soil probe and it's fairly reliable. Unnecessary, but nice to have when you're curious, testing a new bag of soil, etc.).

There is a runoff method, but it's tedious and time-consuming. You would need a pH pen (strips probably won't work because the liquid won't be clear). You can get an eTechCity PH pen on Amazon for about $25. Depending on the seller it will come with a foil pack which you mix into distilled water to make calibration solution. If you have the money, that can be fun to play with. But, they're kind of a maintenance headach and ongoing expense (you have to have storage and cleaning solutions). I have two and stopped using them a long time ago.

A ppm meter is a better $25 investment. You can know the ppms of your water (which can make a difference), and your nutrient mix, but especially your runoff. That's handy to monitor. I find runoff ppm is a better indicator of soil acidity. (I.e., salt buildup.). For me, if my runoff hits 2000ppm, I do half-strength nutes and increase the runoff. 2200 is the danger zone. 2500 is where it starts showing in the plant.

Your numbers may be different. But, it's very handy to know those numbers when dialing in a soil and nutrient. (If using a soil with nutrients "cooked" into it, it might not be as useful.).
 
How did you measure the soil pH? Was it one of those $10 two-prong meters? (They're not too accurate/reliable. I have a $70 Control Wizard Accurate 8 soil probe and it's fairly reliable. Unnecessary, but nice to have when you're curious, testing a new bag of soil, etc.).

There is a runoff method, but it's tedious and time-consuming. You would need a pH pen (strips probably won't work because the liquid won't be clear). You can get an eTechCity PH pen on Amazon for about $25. Depending on the seller it will come with a foil pack which you mix into distilled water to make calibration solution. If you have the money, that can be fun to play with. But, they're kind of a maintenance headach and ongoing expense (you have to have storage and cleaning solutions). I have two and stopped using them a long time ago.

A ppm meter is a better $25 investment. You can know the ppms of your water (which can make a difference), and your nutrient mix, but especially your runoff. That's handy to monitor. I find runoff ppm is a better indicator of soil acidity. (I.e., salt buildup.). For me, if my runoff hits 2000ppm, I do half-strength nutes and increase the runoff. 2200 is the danger zone. 2500 is where it starts showing in the plant.

Your numbers may be different. But, it's very handy to know those numbers when dialing in a soil and nutrient. (If using a soil with nutrients "cooked" into it, it might not be as useful.).

Thank you, but all this is unnecessary .. I got mu pH-meter from the university I work in.
My question was, how to reduce the pH in the solution I water with ?

Thank's again
 
If you notice specific deficiencies then you might consider trying to alter the pH of the feeding but the soil basically buffers it the way it needs.

Yeah, I really wouldn't like to wait till the deficiencies appear.. I water with 6,8 to 7 pH solutions.. and the required level is 5,5 .. There is really a huge range actually, I should say
 
Back
Top