DEA bio-warfare?

herbbilly

herbbilly

Active Member
I know I have p.m. and have for 3-4 cycles. It's the mystery blight? that has taken me from earth friendly to I don't care if it kills the neighbors if it works I'm using it. Greencure helped first round then failed like milk,bleach,vinegar,h202 and mixes of them. 20%rh-90f or 55f and tons of variations. UVC lighting burnt clones opening more weakness maybe acclimating seeds from start will help Idk. I'm growing lactic acid bacteria right now but I'm not exactly hopeful. I see whatever it is all over forums,some say mg,light stress,blah blah blah. 20yrs, GH 3 part, similar setup with crazy fresh air replacement every 2minutes. Dense buds vanish into whispy dogshit,clones won't root, stems snap or bend. 10-15 oz every 8 weeks is now lucky if I get 6 in 12wks. I'm outdoors until this is handled sunshine is helping more than anything else. I'll post pics later but you can see examples in stickies.
 
if you don't care, get eagle20, it works systemically to cure a sick plant, it is no where close to organic and I wouldn't spray it on any flowering plants. But that shit works
 
In Cali its not available (EW) version different ingredients. I do have friends with access, just can't believe its the only solution and why are there 50 clueless talking heads for every single eagle supporter? At this point I'm on team eagle,couldn't be worse than the paraquat,diesel soaked,moldy Mexican brick that got me growing in the first place.
 
My point exactly Aim, no realistic way to pinpoint or identify what I assume are 3 or 4 coexisting plagues on my budget. It's like my garden barebacked pookies prom fiend girlfriend. Each "treatment" opens a seat for the next. Ph fluctuations create deficiencies and more symptoms. It started as a new challenge for an old dog and became a thin line between death and eradication. I popped about 50 clean beans and isolated them on the property. My room will be 120f and repeatedly doused with jomax for a few weeks. Eagle should have landed by then for dessert. Uv lighting and hepa filtration on intake sanitized again ducts replaced. Foreign clones will be shot on sight,no visitors allowed. This plant Aids/Cancer will be kept under flouros in an underground lab until I find a new cure.
 
herbbilly said:
In Cali its not available (EW) version different ingredients. I do have friends with access, just can't believe its the only solution and why are there 50 clueless talking heads for every single eagle supporter? At this point I'm on team eagle,couldn't be worse than the paraquat,diesel soaked,moldy Mexican brick that got me growing in the first place.
Click to expand...
eagle 20 ew is the only product and you can get it on amazon or domyownpestcontrol.com

http://www.dowagro.com/turf/products/fungicides/eagle_20ew.htm
 
In-laws fucked me in the beginning said unavailable. I recently checked on it and could've sworn totally different main ingredient figged a lame fill in. I stand corrected and know more about blight,wilt,dampening off,p.m.,botrytis,rust,downey,grey,tinea cruris,silica,d.e.,grapefruit seed extract,vinegar,lactic everything,UVC lighting and much more because of misinformation. Cost me damn near an elbow but it did keep me busy for 6mos.
 
Myclobutanil is the ingredient in eagle 20. theres a few dif fruit/veg fungicides that use it too. you can get a few dif ones in cal. @ hd, aces...
 
oh i just saw the EW thing. anyways last time i got pm, i used a fruit/veg concentrate with Myclobutanil got at aces for like 10 and it worked realy well.
 
Haven't tried them all but I have learned and all fungicide producers say, if established it won't work wicki Bordeaux mix 3rd sentence. Prevention is another story I managed to prevent everything for 20yrs. Then I gave a $2 crack whore after a $200 night room and board.(dispensary clones) Any disease that lives with no competition,in a almost sterile perfectly controlled ecosystem will thrive w/o undeniable eradication from the start. Smoke and mirrors have produced nothing but resistance and an endless economic opportunity. If it works use it to destroy not control, if it doesn't what's the point.
 
Every state university has an agriculture extension service with recommendations for common plant problems in that state. They should have a recommendation for a fungicide for tomato blight in your area. Fungicides don't kill blight they only prevent it. Once you get it you are screwed. Captan has been around forever but they are always coming out with new stuff that is supposedly more effective.
 
evrything i have read pretty much say that established pm infections are difricult to cure. not impossible. burners and systemic fungicides are both fairly time tested proven methods for dealing with it, as well as dealing with the environment that allowed it to take hold in the first place. starting over is no garantee that it will not return, as the spores it releses are airborn and are by now all over your grow space. i used myclobutanil @ 7 weeks ago and have not seen any return. i also have several friends who have cleared their grows with burners. hope you find a solution that works for you. gl
 
If it's early I'll ditch plants that show PM.
Late harvest however I fight with a high PH mineral water that mother nature supplies for free where I live. Works good.

Then I clean house...sterile city.

I have not seen PM for a long time until recently. A Blueberry has it ( mid flower ).

However it is not really my fault, as I also found out the guy I get my clones from, just ditched all his mothers due to PM.

Once a plant has PM all you can do is fight ( increase ventilation, raise temps, thin plant etc and of course a high PH foliar spray )

Unless you want to go Toxic Avenger...I'd rather quit growing.

Good luck
 
1 sulphur is topical sure it's an excellent room cleaner and symptom hider for salvaging a cycle. So is all the other crap, mediocrity ain't your style either splains your choice to heal and not manage.
 
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