cxb3950 vs hps

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Correct, But Im aiming for growth in Veg and not many people talk about it. Ill drop the temp once I move to flower. what would you estimate the best temp for flower would be? Ive always thought 78F was a sweet spot.
Ah, I run my veg nice n warm too, but I don't currently light it with LED.
 

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Wasn't sure if you saw my question earlier, but I feel it's relevant for the blanket statement made.
Sure measuring leaf surface temperature is always optimal. The amount of light radiation will make a difference. That being said that statement is a good start and kinda like recommending a certain PH. For those that are on the next level you will have a certain recipe for a particular strain IE( feed strength PH as well as light levels temp humidity and even hours of light during flowering). Learning to read the plants is what this is all about. The guidelines I stated a great start and usually universal for most growers. Personally I like to run a little warm until the last 3 weeks. I generally like to slowly ramp down temp and humidity and hours of light during the final phases of flowering. I'll even generally lower my water temps the last week daily as well.
 

SimonBarSinister

Well-Known Member
Anybody got an opinion on using far red stars in their cob set-up? I just have the 8 cxb3950 @50w , but i did choose 3000k ( even though i take a single digit pecentage decrease in lumens) because it's strictly for flower. I have four 600w blurple lights that work pretty well for veg and i run a perpetual grow so my areas are seperate.
 

Bungalow

Well-Known Member
It could help with ripening and hanging on to oils and such. I'm no expert myself but it seems to bring out the colors a little better a well.
Indeed, over 80F some of the more volatile terpenes begin evaporating. It makes sense that ripening is induced when stressful (late fall/early winter) factors of declining temperature and humidity are introduced, signalling a dire need to be pollinated before senescence. The colors, from my understanding, are largely linked to latent anthocyanin expression induced through cooler temperature near the end of the cycle, or even anecdotally through higher blue in the spectrum (this seems to be an unhealthy/unproductive expression denoting premature senescence.)
 

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
Anybody got an opinion on using far red stars in their cob set-up? I just have the 8 cxb3950 @50w , but i did choose 3000k ( even though i take a single digit pecentage decrease in lumens) because it's strictly for flower. I have four 600w blurple lights that work pretty well for veg and i run a perpetual grow so my areas are seperate.
You really shouldn't need any more red just run them close to the canopy at the 18-6" area and you will be happy with the results.. Only thing that would do better would be the 2700k you can add far red to make the plants go to sleep faster and wake up faster.. But that's about it IMO
 

SimonBarSinister

Well-Known Member
So this weekend I get to cut down this mess and replace with 2 different strains from clone (fast growing grape kush & slow growing og 18) Everything shares the same environment, so by no means is it fair scientific experiment. Just looking for differences in color, terpenes , trichomes, whatever. I will create separate ideal environments in the future, though. After all, I am a mad scientist !693.jpg 694.jpg 687.jpg 708.jpg 709.jpg 710.jpg
 
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