Curing with boveda 62% packs

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Just relax.

Anecdotal evidence is great and all, but you do realize that there are several other plants that humans smoke and that we can learn a lot about how to take a plant to the moisture content we desire from say, tobacco farmers? Or maybe people who manufacture cigars know something about storing things to retain their flavor. I’m not saying that we should just copy/paste what they are doing into what we do, just that to have such a closed mind is counterproductive.

There are tons of drying methods, saying that the end product is gonna be awesome because you grew it right is incorrect. It will still smell like hay, if you dry it wrong or too fast, so you do need to make sure you dry right.

Good luck smoking all that turkey bag unicorn weed. lol

You know the entire reason for any of this is long term storage right? Because maintaining a stable environment makes literally everything last longer. I can tell you didn’t know why they exist though because you went of on a half cocked idiotic rant instead of explaining that they can’t fix mistakes made before harvest which is ALL that you needed to say.
Exactly they are made for long term storage. Just like cigars and humidors there’s a reason for those and weed is no different. To preserve and and to avoid the thc from degrading as fast. It’s why I referred the one guy fix his drying area rather than jacking it up using silica packs and boveda. @LinguaPeel but be driving that wheel chair with a unicorns horn in his ass and using the turkey bag for erotic affixation lol.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
They suck been on one
Yer but ours have great air circulation, near perfect humidity and a comfortable temperature.

They suck but i found the environment pretty well maintained with plenty of nice air vents.

Possibly perks of a modern nuclear engine and 21st cen. tech.
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Yer but ours have great air circulation, near perfect humidity and a comfortable temperature.

They suck but i found the environment pretty well maintained with plenty of nice air vents.

Possibly perks of a modern nuclear engine and 21st cen. tech.
How long were you on one though?
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
How long were you on one though?
The question would be what damp wet smelly stuffy unhygenic sub are you on, we have hvac that could grow dank on the ones ive done.

Being down for time only happens as a job or special reason and since terroism laws and health and safety aint many spending time at depth on any top of the range military sub.

Most tourist subs do a couple hours maybe more. A marine biologist might be more lucky.

Use to be space was a premium but actually most have enougb for a prety decent climate control, diesel or lead battery will be an issue but nuke rules.

So ya a few and a few just to walk round but safe that some are kick ass, strap a few lights and thats the most stealth i can think off.

Most planes have pretty decent climates, touch dry if you really ask me :-)
 

KryptoBud

Well-Known Member
Holy fuck just grow the herb right and you won't have to pretend you got dank with some barely smellable bullshit relying on brovida to pull off that barely there smell/taste.

The best shit in the world is stored in fuckin turkey bags. And yall fucking with brovida and jars n shit, wracking your minds for the answer,blaming it on genetics.. Wake up. I've smoked sooo much hydro, and plenty of it cured with brovida. Even lots of RIU members stuff. Shit barely smells, barely tastes. Want me to name names? I'll do it. Thats frosty bullshit that upsets your stomach smoking it lol.

Yall need to give up the grow store mythology and grown real shit that basically cures itself in a zip lock. Food grade bacteria rich inputs.. No brovida required. Fuck bottled bullshit and dead mediums. You cant turn turds into gold..or can you?

Yall fuck up so bad you cause someone in a wheelchair to come out of retirement. Pretty fucking sad. Pick a side. You ain't gonna grow quality herb with a fucking growstore product.
I've noticed over the course of my life that when I didn't like something I didn't use it. Tastes bad? dont eat it. It's hot. don't put your balls on it I know for the paint chip eaters among us that free will and personal choice can be scary, but if you try hard you'll figure it out. If not theres always suck starting a shotgun,.after a grow store shooting spree of course.
Maybe you can help me with a problem.
I've noticed my buds are really salty lately I think its the sodium in my light. Any suggestions on fixing it? I'm thinking changing to T5's the last 10 days like a fluorescent flush. Where do you buy all your organic lights, pots and shit? I don't want my bud to taste like 3 year old gum on an canadian elephants ingrown toenail, you know the taste right?? Shit'll give your dog tourettes on easter sunday and who needs that headache fuckin growstores are operated by aliens from uranus, never feed them after midnight k?
 

driel

Well-Known Member
I'm in the camp that believes it does something to the bud from an experience level. I have no idea if it does anything to terpenes or not as the cannabis tends to taste consistent when ground up. I've stored with & without. If you can get your humidity right by using a proper hygrometer then imo it's a better experience by being able to smell a rich cannabis profile. I like the smell of cannabis flower so I don't want to be robbed of it at all.

There's something of a neutered smell when I put my packs in mason jars vs ones without. I do find them helpful when the humidity can begin to dip especially with repeated access so for storage but I put off as long as possible before slipping one in.
 

Dank You, More Please

Well-Known Member
For these to work the bud has to be in a certain rh range.

Ie: if you jar up some bud that climbs to say 75rh and you pop in a 62 Bov pak, the Bov pak isnt going to suck up all that humidity and bring the jar of bud down to 62 rh magically. Maybe to 68 or something.

And the reverse is true. For these to work properly you need to get the bud into say a 54 to 68 rh range the Bov paks will do the rest.
To clear up misinformation on the front page of this post:

The Bovida packs are 2-way humidity control systems, using a gel solution consisting of water and a salt compound. This means that there is no "ideal" RH of the bud prior to tossing a Bovida pack in, there is also no need to "get the bud into" any particular range. The 62% RH pack brings the RH to equilibrium (62%), and keeps it there, in other words, the pack itself is responsive to it's environment.

If the RH is < 62%, Bov releases water vapor until the equilibrium point is reached. This results in a re-hydration of the cannabis and a coating of the trichromes. You may notice that when you place a Bov pack into a stanky but dry container of buds, it loses some of it's scent. This is simply the water vapor covering the terpenes; as soon as the bud is ground, or even rubbed between your fingers you'll get the nose back.

Likewise, if the RH is > 62%, the salt compounds in the Bovida pack absorb water vapor from the environment until equilibrium is reached. Overly dank flower that has a Bov pack will gain nose as the level reaches 62%, at which point water vapor is continuously released and absorbed into the pack to maintain this level.

This is why you cannot use too many packs, as once equilibrium is reached, nothing is happening on a chemical level in the pack. Also, using two different RH level packs is a big problem as they will compete with each other, prematurely ending the life of both packs.

So, whether your flower is at 80% humidity or 5%; throwing some 62% packs into the container will bring the whole system to 62%. The further from the RH listed on the pack the flower starts at, the "harder" the pack has to work, meaning it won't last as long.

Just want to make it clear that aside from standard post-harvest and curing procedures, there's no "sweet spot", if you will, where you should put a Bov pack in.
 

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
To clear up misinformation on the front page of this post:

The Bovida packs are 2-way humidity control systems, using a gel solution consisting of water and a salt compound. This means that there is no "ideal" RH of the bud prior to tossing a Bovida pack in, there is also no need to "get the bud into" any particular range. The 62% RH pack brings the RH to equilibrium (62%), and keeps it there, in other words, the pack itself is responsive to it's environment.

If the RH is < 62%, Bov releases water vapor until the equilibrium point is reached. This results in a re-hydration of the cannabis and a coating of the trichromes. You may notice that when you place a Bov pack into a stanky but dry container of buds, it loses some of it's scent. This is simply the water vapor covering the terpenes; as soon as the bud is ground, or even rubbed between your fingers you'll get the nose back.

Likewise, if the RH is > 62%, the salt compounds in the Bovida pack absorb water vapor from the environment until equilibrium is reached. Overly dank flower that has a Bov pack will gain nose as the level reaches 62%, at which point water vapor is continuously released and absorbed into the pack to maintain this level.

This is why you cannot use too many packs, as once equilibrium is reached, nothing is happening on a chemical level in the pack. Also, using two different RH level packs is a big problem as they will compete with each other, prematurely ending the life of both packs.

So, whether your flower is at 80% humidity or 5%; throwing some 62% packs into the container will bring the whole system to 62%. The further from the RH listed on the pack the flower starts at, the "harder" the pack has to work, meaning it won't last as long.

Just want to make it clear that aside from standard post-harvest and curing procedures, there's no "sweet spot", if you will, where you should put a Bov pack in.
Well... speaking from experience... you are just plain wrong.
Put 3 ounces of weed in a 1 qt jar that is around 75% humidity on its own.
Now drop a boveda 62 in there and see what haapens over a few days.
Rh will drop but not enough. So drop two more Bovedas in there and wait a few days. Rh will still drop, but still not enough.

Its like trying to cool a 4000 watt hps grow room with 14k btus of a/c. It just aint enough.
 

SimonD

Well-Known Member
OK guys i just purchased boveda 62% packs to help with curing. I have many questions and done some reasearch on it. As far as I can tell you do a proper dry then throw these in the jar with it and forget about them. Have any of u ever used them before I don't want mold!!!
If your flowers are at the proper RH for curing, you can certainly use the packets to maintain a desired environment inside the container. Good luck.

Simon
 

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
.

I use these Cvault containers, they have a built in sleeve for Boveda packs. Great way to cure and store your bud for months or more.

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AKuma21

Member
For these to work the bud has to be in a certain rh range.

Ie: if you jar up some bud that climbs to say 75rh and you pop in a 62 Bov pak, the Bov pak isnt going to suck up all that humidity and bring the jar of bud down to 62 rh magically. Maybe to 68 or something.

And the reverse is true. For these to work properly you need to get the bud into say a 54 to 68 rh range the Bov paks will do the rest.
How long does it take for the packs to work
 

TeW33zy

Active Member
I lightly dried mine in the shed for ~4 days, as if I was preparing for a burping slow dry.
Then I put them in glass jars with 62% B packs, and paper bags within glass jars with 62% B packs, and basically forgot about them a couple of weeks.
Opened it up to find a small amount of fluffy white mold where buds were touching.

Don't do what I did :)
Oh duh no shit. No good or professional grower even evaluated wt ur doing as a possibility and infact was laughing because I can tell you don't know what u are doing either. Anyone that would spends days or weeks researching quality seeds, wait days or weeks for them to arrive after paying hundreds of dollars in pricing, taxes and fees, spent elusive time germinating, months vegging and flowering w/ countless added time training, watering and mixing nutrients, being a security guard paranoid about smell, something breaking down or going wrong (deficiencies or toxities), worried about overwatering etc etc to only finish 4-6 months later with all that time, stress and paranoia to only do a goofy thing like what u did during drying and curing shows your level of gardening is trash.
 

TeW33zy

Active Member
I lightly dried mine in the shed for ~4 days, as if I was preparing for a burping slow dry.
Then I put them in glass jars with 62% B packs, and paper bags within glass jars with 62% B packs, and basically forgot about them a couple of weeks.
Opened it up to find a small amount of fluffy white mold where buds were touching.

Don't do what I did :)
I use these as well. They work GREAT.
The only possible downside is some people think that it tends to leech some of the smell from the jar, which I think in time I have noticed as well. But honestly, the difference in smell is very minimal, and your buds will still taste great. I don't think it causes any difference in taste, it may even just be the presence of the humidity pack materials and the salts in there mixing with the smell of the buds. But regardless, even with this tiny downside to the boveda's, they will keep your buds at the perfect humidity and give the best smoke with just perfectly burning buds. The upsides to boveda's FAR outweigh the tiny possible effect where it seems to leech a bit of smell. You wont regret it.

That being said, I wouldn't pick your buds off once dry and plop them right in with the boveda pack quite yet. Stick them in a jar with a small humidity meter (pet store, 10 bucks), seal it, and let them sit in there while watching that humidity meter for a little while.

1.If the meter goes above 62% pretty quickly (like 30 minutes?), keep drying them a bit more.

2.If you jar your buds and humidity very steadily rises and after a longer period of time (hour+) you see it has gone above 62%, burp the jar. (open it, shake the buds around and let it sit to get dryer air in the jar for 5-30 minutes, depending on how quickly the humidity meter rose.) Then reseal it and repeat this process until the humidity gauge never goes above 62%. At this point you can stop burping, but this could be days of this process. This is the ideal way to cure your buds, and if you can dry to this perfect point (which for me seems to be just before the stem crack, although this can be very difficult to gauge) and jar just at the right time there honestly is no better way to cure your buds, and you wont need to stick a boveda pack in until you take buds out enough to smoke that the humidity starts dropping well below 60% or so. THEN you can stick a boveda pack in and it is helpful for longevity of your buds.

3. On the other hand, let's face it, things don't always work out so perfectly and you might jar your buds to find the humidity never rises above 62%. this means you have over dried. But the closer your humidity reads to 62% after letting them sit in the jar for a couple days, the less of a deal this is. Honestly, if you pull right when the stem cracks, this is likely to happen, but it won't really be severe enough to make much of a difference. It's not a bad method. And regardless, this is when boveda packs are REALLY helpful. If you over dry a bit, just pop a boveda pack in and seal the jar and they will get re-hydrated in one to 3 days or so. The smoke will be just as good as the perfectly cured buds, but you might have lost just a bit of flavor and potency from over drying. Not much though, I over dried to 45% this last grow, stuck a boveda pack in, and these buds are still amazing. Initially they were a bit harsh form over drying (and lack of cure I guess), but after a few days with the boveda they smoked great.

More people need to know about using bovedas. I sware 99% of the weed you get out there, by the time it gets to you at least, is WAY over dried and as a result becomes really harsh. All that people need to do is go out and buy a 5$ boveda pack and keep their buds in with that. I don't understand why every bag you go pick up is dried to absolute f*&%ing shit unless it was just picked off the plant. So ah... spread the word I guess. Lol.
Nailed it. However, u are over worrying and over thinking. Pull Your shit when it snaps, trim and jar. If a day later your hydrometer is 57% that does not mean you Overpriced, no. That's not what that means, that's normal and typical. The moisture is in the center of the bud, not the outside like when trimming it feels like u overdrive them but no, that's normal to be a lil dry on the outside. When in a jar, the buds as it breaks down chlorophyll it sweats, the middle contains patulous deep within the catalyst photos the extend which is a process known as permeating. It transfers stored moisture in the middle to the outside catalysis to shield outside oxygen from drying out. While it's curing (breaking down chlorophyll, it's also permeating to balance the catalyst evenly which is why the middle is moist and the outside is dry when you trim but after week or so in the jar u notice the outside is no longer dry and the middle is no longer wet, it's now evenly observed. It only becomes a problem when you over dried it so bad that there is not enough moisture deep within the catalyst to moisten the outside or permeate itself. This is bad. You have to know wt u are saying. When it's 57% that is not over dried, that's normal and infact is the best way to cure. Pull the plant when stim snaps, trim and jar. It should read 55% to 60% day or so later. As it climbs above 62%, burp as needed until you have a constant RH between 55% to 60% and is sustained for at least 5-7 days (if RH is slightly higher, continue burping until it stabilizes). Once the RH is stable at 55% - 60% for 5-7 days straight, the bud is now 8-10% of its proper moisture level for smoking and producing its aromas and terpine profiles. You then add in a 62% boveda 2 way humidity pack, it will bring the 55%-60% RH up to 62% within 24 hours and it will stabilize at 62% +/- 1% within 5 days. Come back 60 days later. A cure should be 60 days for best results.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
Oh duh no shit. No good or professional grower even evaluated wt ur doing as a possibility and infact was laughing because I can tell you don't know what u are doing either. Anyone that would spends days or weeks researching quality seeds, wait days or weeks for them to arrive after paying hundreds of dollars in pricing, taxes and fees, spent elusive time germinating, months vegging and flowering w/ countless added time training, watering and mixing nutrients, being a security guard paranoid about smell, something breaking down or going wrong (deficiencies or toxities), worried about overwatering etc etc to only finish 4-6 months later with all that time, stress and paranoia to only do a goofy thing like what u did during drying and curing shows your level of gardening is trash.
You owned that dude from four years ago with sheer verbosity.
 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Oh duh no shit. No good or professional grower even evaluated wt ur doing as a possibility and infact was laughing because I can tell you don't know what u are doing either. Anyone that would spends days or weeks researching quality seeds, wait days or weeks for them to arrive after paying hundreds of dollars in pricing, taxes and fees, spent elusive time germinating, months vegging and flowering w/ countless added time training, watering and mixing nutrients, being a security guard paranoid about smell, something breaking down or going wrong (deficiencies or toxities), worried about overwatering etc etc to only finish 4-6 months later with all that time, stress and paranoia to only do a goofy thing like what u did during drying and curing shows your level of gardening is trash.
Lashing out at a ghost on the internet for no reason.

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