Critical Jack Yellowing Leaves And Burnt Tips

MATTYMATT726 said:

Nwver used Jacks but always hear good stuff. Coco or soil? Auto can be nute sensitive from what i hear but 1/8 would not be orevboard. Some autos are finished in 50-60 days. Maybe she is a fast strain?

Click to expand...

CriticalJack18 said:

Thanks for the quick response. I’ve heard good stuff that’s why I chose them. I’m using roots organic original soil. Roots organic bloom nutes 1/8 strength every other watering so every 5 days or so. It says it’s a 65-70 day strain so idk just a little confused...

Click to expand...

CriticalJack18 said:

What’s up guys! I’m 6 and a half weeks into my critical jack herer auto grow and noticed the bottom leaves yellow and starting to go up. Also, the tips of the leaves are a little burnt. I’m using roots organic bloom nutes 1/8 strength every other watering, which isn’t much. No matter how much I use I feel it gets a little burnt. What do you think this is and what should I do? Is it normal? Nitrogen? Cal mag? Here are some pics...

Click to expand...

PURPLEB3RRYKUSH said:

Leafs should not be yellowing that early unless you got an issue, looks like it's only been in flower for 2 weeks, my guess is Nitrogen def, used all that N up at the start of flower

Click to expand...

CriticalJack18 said:

So what should I do? Should I add more N? Or is it too late?

Click to expand...

PURPLEB3RRYKUSH said:

Up yah feed a tad, not too late, what EC/PPM u feeeding at. Should be around 1.2 EC

Click to expand...

CriticalJack18 said:

Not sure haven’t checked Ppm this is my first grow. My tips look burnt no matter how much I give. Did you see them? I’m giving 1/8 bloom every other watering. How much should I give? Don’t want to burn them more

Click to expand...

MATTYMATT726 said:

I wouldn't think N is going to help. Flower stage doesn't want heavy N in it. I can't tell you for sure what it is since i use coco and GH micro/bloom and cal mag nutes. Zero Grow nuyes entire grow and my leaves stay green till harvest, but i really think youdhave problems all over the plant if it were food issues. The leaves on the bottom are oldest and die first. Not all listed times by breeder are right, but take the small chance 60-70 days is right youre about 45 days in so it would make swnce with 3 weeks left for leaves to start dying. Thats just what i would think if my plant cause aside those it really looks good. Clearly more like 5 weeks left of flower more than 3 but leaves do die before harvest as well.

Click to expand...

Budzbuddha said:

2¢....

I do autos ... lots of them.
6 1/2 weeks equates to 4-5 week of veg / preflower.
You actually about 2 week in flower.

Time to wind down nitro ( hence the tip burn )
Leaves have stored enough nitro ( dark green )
Lower fade is normal as it is using the nitro TO BEGIN STRETCH and final branching.
You CAN do LST on these to “ open “ plant to more air flow and more importantly more light to mids.

Blurple suffers from poorer penetration thus it helps to bring in panel closer.
Rotate the plants once a week to allow light to hit different parts of plants.
Keep bloom feed as is until it has finished stretch and begins to slow.
THEN AND ONLY THEN ARE YOU IN ACTUAL FLOWER.

Forget beeeder estimate on harvest time. The time posted is UNDER OPTIMAL CONDITIONS ( grow ) and not real world in most setups.

LED GROWS take a bit longer to get buds to mature than say hid lights or CMH.
But you can get some righteous buds if you wait til they are done.

Click to expand...

Budzbuddha said:

2¢....

I do autos ... lots of them.
6 1/2 weeks equates to 4-5 week of veg / preflower.
You actually about 2 week in flower.

Time to wind down nitro ( hence the tip burn )
Leaves have stored enough nitro ( dark green )
Lower fade is normal as it is using the nitro TO BEGIN STRETCH and final branching.
You CAN do LST on these to “ open “ plant to more air flow and more importantly more light to mids.

Blurple suffers from poorer penetration thus it helps to bring in panel closer.
Rotate the plants once a week to allow light to hit different parts of plants.
Keep bloom feed as is until it has finished stretch and begins to slow.
THEN AND ONLY THEN ARE YOU IN ACTUAL FLOWER.

Forget beeeder estimate on harvest time. The time posted is UNDER OPTIMAL CONDITIONS ( grow ) and not real world in most setups.

LED GROWS take a bit longer to get buds to mature than say hid lights or CMH.
But you can get some righteous buds if you wait til they are done.

Click to expand...

CriticalJack18 said:

Thanks man. Great response. It’s the lower leaves and kind of moved up towards the middle. I heard it takes a little longer but that’s ok. I rotate daily. The plants have stopped stretching and started showing flowers between weeks 3-4. So I should keep doing what I’m doing? Just bloom nutes 1/8th every other watering? No veg grow nutes?

Click to expand...

MATTYMATT726 said:

I wouldn't think N is going to help. Flower stage doesn't want heavy N in it. I can't tell you for sure what it is since i use coco and GH micro/bloom and cal mag nutes. Zero Grow nuyes entire grow and my leaves stay green till harvest, but i really think youdhave problems all over the plant if it were food issues. The leaves on the bottom are oldest and die first. Not all listed times by breeder are right, but take the small chance 60-70 days is right youre about 45 days in so it would make swnce with 3 weeks left for leaves to start dying. Thats just what i would think if my plant cause aside those it really looks good. Clearly more like 5 weeks left of flower more than 3 but leaves do die before harvest as well.

Click to expand...

Budzbuddha said:

2¢....

I do autos ... lots of them.
6 1/2 weeks equates to 4-5 week of veg / preflower.
You actually about 2 week in flower.

Time to wind down nitro ( hence the tip burn )
Leaves have stored enough nitro ( dark green )
Lower fade is normal as it is using the nitro TO BEGIN STRETCH and final branching.
You CAN do LST on these to “ open “ plant to more air flow and more importantly more light to mids.

Blurple suffers from poorer penetration thus it helps to bring in panel closer.
Rotate the plants once a week to allow light to hit different parts of plants.
Keep bloom feed as is until it has finished stretch and begins to slow.
THEN AND ONLY THEN ARE YOU IN ACTUAL FLOWER.

Forget beeeder estimate on harvest time. The time posted is UNDER OPTIMAL CONDITIONS ( grow ) and not real world in most setups.

LED GROWS take a bit longer to get buds to mature than say hid lights or CMH.
But you can get some righteous buds if you wait til they are done.

Click to expand...

Logan Burke said:

With that dark green, stay away from anything containing nitrogen (Like CalMag, to be specific) except for your regular base bloom. People always want to add cal-mag anytime there is a deficiency symptom of calcium, mag, or iron....but what many forget is that, in soil, it's rare to not have enough of these elements. There is more than likely an issue with getting too much, or too little, of other nutrients.

This guy here won't lead you wrong....he know's it all when it comes to auto's. Follow his advice and you'll be just fine.

Click to expand...