Cree Cobs+Samsung F Series Gen 3s strip build

Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
Have you checked the case temp of the cobs? Basicly im irying to figure out how thick i need my c-channels for 15-20 w cobs and i feel somewhat unsure if 2 mm is enough to pull the heat out of the cob to be dissipated by the heat sink.
Click to expand...
We are talking about less than 10 watts of heat. 2mm is enough and when you add a 2nd u-channel to increase the surface area the base gets 4mm thick in the middle. I've done a few heatsinks that way and they work great. Thats a 600x 350x 2mm alu plate with 8 small 10x 20x 10mm u-channels on its backside and its the base for a 150w strip/COB light.(see signature for more pics). Even at 150w and with drivers mounted on the backside the fixture stays below 50°C.
I've used 6 CXB2540's running at 700mA on this heatsink with no issues and the COB's are still working.
Selfmade LED Heatsink, 600x350mm, used passive with 120w, T.c stays below 50°C.jpg
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Lurrabq said:
That build turned out very cool there whyte. Damn!

Really like the color mix. That is the sort of mix I've been considering.
Click to expand...
Appreciate it. I like how it turned out too. I think maybe (4) of the 3ks instead of 3 wouldnt been nice. But the 4ks flower so good for my setup. I'm stoked to flower a couple fems from cannaventure under it here super soon. Gonna flip in like 10 days. Full run under it. See how.it does. With stretch and all.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Got the frame cut bolted and bolted together. As well as the strip lay out for the revamp on the 22 strips light. Gotta pull the light at lights out soon as I finish the frame then pull the all the strips, drivers, and wiring. And the 5 sunboards are already mounted one tubing I'm reusing on them. Bc they will not come off. With out damage, the f562bs are bolted on not using the heatsinks.. Move it to the new frame in under 12 hours to have it back on at lights on.

Still have to tape the strips, put em on the U channel. Through some bolts in them for my piece of mind. Mount the tubing that has the sunboards on the frame. Wire it all back up. Mount the drivers. And get hung back up. Gonna be a pain in the ass. The sun boards will be mounted inbetween the groups of two fb562b 3ks. Sunboards are 2700k. Not gonna mount the reds just yet. I'll do it while its hung. All the holes will be drill n ready. Itll be just lay em in it. Throw the bolt in it. And nut it.


20181228_230541.jpg 20181228_230527.jpg 20181229_015410.jpg 20181229_015417.jpg
 
Danielson999

Danielson999

Well-Known Member
whytewidow said:
Yup I didnt have enough. And neither lowes or home depot had any U channel wide enough. They didnt have any 1" wide u channel. And the H inFlux_L06 are wider than 3/4 channel that they had in stock. I'll use 3/4 channel on the rebuild of the f562b light.

Edit: I will put slots in the top side of the square tubing. To let heat escape so it doesnt have to travel the length of the tube before it escapes.
Click to expand...
You don't need to cut slots. Tubing works as well or better than channel (more heatsink), assuming you have some ambient airflow hitting your fixture. I even tried tilting my light slightly so it pulls air in the low side of the tubing and pushes it out the top just from natural convection.

Tubing is also far more rigid and requires far less support. I will always choose tubing over channel in my lights. I know it sounds like it would be worse but I've tried both and see no difference. My lights are cool to the touch either way. I suppose some people have different environmental variables and will undoubtedly get different results :)
 
Last edited:
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Danielson999 said:
You don't need to cut slots. Tubing works as well or better than channel (more heatsink), assuming you have some ambient airflow hitting your fixture. I even tried tilting my light slightly so it pulls air in the low side of the tubing and pushes it out the top just from natural convection.

Tubing is also far more rigid and requires far less support. I will always choose tubing over channel in my lights. I know it sounds like it would be worse but I've tried both and see no difference. My lights are cool to the touch either way. I suppose some people have different environmental variables and will undoubtedly get different results :)
Click to expand...
I'm running them under typ current. Theres no need for a heatsink at all really. But I'm using the U channel for something to just mount the strips too. For rigidity. The first frame I built is just way to heavy and a pain in the ass to adjust when needed. I use paint cans and milk crates to raise n lower plants. But I run sativas every once in awhile. And the stretch on them is unreal. So I'm cutting down on about 35lbs give or take. For ease of use and adjustability. And the strips mounted on tubing with no slots run hotter than strips on u channel with smaller u channel mounted on inside when I push the strips hard. According to a thermocouple mounted right up against the led. That was the reason for the slots.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Got the frame all bolted together. Gonna lay out my holes for the strips. And predrill all of them. So it's ready. Then in the morning at lights off. 4am. I'll pull the light hanging. Remove all the strips and swap em over.

20181229_182027.jpg 20181229_182046.jpg
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Gooood laaaaaawwdyyyy. What time consuming task. 48 1/8" inch holes. Then back through with 7/64" plus 2 holes on each of the U channel to bolt them to the angle. So another 48. So I only drilled 144 holes this evening. Hit the faces of the channel with some 480 sandpaper. Then a quick denatured alcohol wipe down. And itll be ready to swap strips out.
20181230_014224.jpg 20181230_014215.jpg
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Got the strips removed from the old light. Got all the thermal grease wiped off. And the strip cleaned. Then thermal taped, and excess stripped off. Getting ready to mount them to the U channel. I've already heat it with the 280 grit sand paper, then 480 grit sand paper. Wiped down with denatured alcohol.

20181230_143359.jpg 20181230_143404.jpg 20181230_145715.jpg 20181230_145718.jpg 20181230_153250.jpg 20181230_153305.jpg
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Got the (12) F562b 3k strips thermal taped and mounted. #6-32 1/2" machine stainless screws in each end. For my piece of mind. The thermal tape is enough to hold them. I jus prefer for my own piece of mind, a few screws put in. Now to wire these up. Mount the HLG320H driver on the back. And remove the other (5) sunboards and wire them up. And mount the HLG240H driver to the back with the other.

20181230_161628.jpg 20181230_173108.jpg 20181230_173112.jpg 20181230_173218.jpg 20181230_173224.jpg 20181230_173113.jpg
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Got the negative side wired in....
20181230_185928.jpg

And the positive side done. And pig tail hookups for the driver. I used one time wago connects on the strips and frame itself. Bc I had 100 count bag of them that needed used. And they're rated for the same as snap wagos. And then used the regular wagos on the final input. With 14awg wire. Then to 18awg solid core throughout the frame
20181230_194215.jpg
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Finally. Only thing is to hook back up the sunboard strips now that they are mounted. And bolted in. Then mount the two drivers and hang this lovely lady back up.

20181230_223821.jpg
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
So I just go sent this QB type pcb from waveform lighting, to test. High cri. 108 watts per board. Can daisy chain them. Have both molex wire hookups and dc barrel plug. Its 4000k. And free. So I cant complain. May make a good panel for a center panel on a bigger light build. We'll see.

20181231_124014.jpg 20181231_123655.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top