Cool tube cooling - just an answer; not the what ifs pls

Fykshun

Active Member
Hello all. Brief desc. of set up: 4'x4'x6.5' Secret Jardin Pro DR120 II inside empty garage roughly 18'x7'x12' with passive air intakes in garage for water heater, and a roll up garage door that doesn't seal at all (plenty of passive intake). I live in Seattle with peak summer temps barely beyond 85f and low winter temps at upper 30s - tons of rain, but cooler air releases the humidity quicker than, say, humid Southern climates.

So far I have purchased 1 6" 400 cfm Can Fan and rate matched Can Filter; 1 400w Cool Tube MH/HPS with switchable digital ballast.

My question is simple: is it better to push air with 100-200 cfm booster fan through my cool tube and out of the tent (completely contained; never interfering with tent air besides obvious pinhole leaks in glass seal and ducting), AND run the can fan plus carbon filter for odor extraction and air replacement?

OR

Simply run (like I see a hundred times over on these sites) carbon filter to ducting to cool tube to ducting to can fan and out (passive intake only)?

I'd very much appreciate some experienced input without conjecture on building a bigger better setup than I've got.
 
Thank you all; grass city forum wasn't nearly as responsive or decisive. I am not running CO2 and really intended just to get my tube closer to my canopy - I know 400w isn't much and my tent could withstand more light, but I'm just a newb looking for personal growth and a few pics to be proud of. Thanks again.
 
Thank you all; grass city forum wasn't nearly as responsive or decisive. I am not running CO2 and really intended just to get my tube closer to my canopy - I know 400w isn't much and my tent could withstand more light, but I'm just a newb looking for personal growth and a few pics to be proud of. Thanks again.

***k grasscity
gear u got planned sounds right on but pull air across bulb dont try to push air
 
i do it option 2 way and works perfectly! but why dont you build a bigger room and ............................ just kidding!
 
Thanks again for all the confirmation; one question I'd like to clear up is heat being drawn over a small booster (meaning, if I were to do setup one, which you have all convinced me isn't truly necessary ) then I am curious if the heat being pulled over fan motor/casing is enough to do some damage to the fan. The ONLY reason I wanted to push (since I do not have miles of ducting) was due to this concern of overheating the fan.
 
With a 400 cfm fan, I don't think drawing the hot air through the fan is as big of a concern as if you were to blow the air across the light , whatever leaks are in the system, would then allow the heat to get into your grow space. With pulling air, the light venting is also under negative pressure.
 
My apologies for being unclear - I know the Can Fan is not an issue - I am concerned about pulling hot air as close to three to four feet away from the bulb with nothing more than a 100 to 200 cfm booster fan on an independent pass through (not part of extraction). Thanks for the heads-up, Grumpy.
 
I do not advise this because you may put the pilot light out in your water heater and cause an explosion or death.
When the fan switches on and off it can push a puff of air through the water heater and put the pilot light out.
The air passages in the heater are smaller so the velocity of the air is sudden enough to do this.
***Just be careful when you are working around other combustion devices.***
 
Hey PotPower - I very much appreciate the shout out to Safety! I have indeed research this as well (my house is new construction with new fangled appliances - including the water heater, which actually gave us some logistics issues in the house build - we ended up feed the thing a ton of air). I will consult my contractors for opinions on this before flipping the switch. Thanks again for looking out. (Incase you're also concerned about covertness - my contractors are family, and I am legitimately engaged within Washington State's MMJ laws).
 
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