Chasing the recycle/amend train again, input welcome!

So after this last run, I've done another soil test and this time things looked pretty much as I expected but there was 1 big surprise and a couple things I did differently during that likely influenced the soil results.

First notable difference was that I was using NFTG a little bit at the end; I was looking at P booster options since I knew going into things I was low on P based on prior test. I ended up using Herculean Harvest, Athena's Aminas and OlympusUp. Not too heavy handed of use, but I did notice a lot of that HH built up on the soil crust so before I took my sample I gave the tops a swirl and ensure it was fairly well mixed into things then sampled from down where roots were across 3 pots to randomize a bit. I was also using SLF-100 to compliment this.

The next notable difference was along with MammothP I was throwing some PhotoSynthesis Plus at things for a duo of bennies along with some Recharge a couple times along the way. Also I had some Big6 micros from BuildASoil to help on that front & did 2 small applications throughout.

Along the run I had yellowing from the bottom-to-top very early on and purple stems as well; I was suspect of my vpd/temps & watering practices as well as the night temps specifically. This has occurred across 1 strain/2 phenos and another unrelated strain I ran a couple times.

Now the surprise here was the sulphur levels! Wow! I have to be suspect of the Photo Plus since as anyone who's opened a bottle of it knows... smells like sulfur! And I didn't add any sulfur. I did add some epsom salts but if that was the source the Mg level should be far far higher right??

So now I'm concerned if I need to do something to mitigate the sulfur before trying to recycle/amend the soil. Also if there's any need/way to reduce the Na some might be smart. I'm also now contemplating what N sources to use to get it back up to full power for the next run, i.e. neem meal, etc.

So what says the crowd? Any thoughts on what you'd do given this report & background?

Also of note, some gypsum was used - so not sure if the Ca was consumed and the S was consumed at slower/lesser rate leaving more S behind. I'm struggling to identify where so drastic of a difference could have occurred and going back to look at old reports now.

Looking back, the last run I went into things with a N deficiency basically; but the S levels were lower than current. 74 from the test before compared to 183 after (did the Photo+ just make it highly available is what I'm wondering now). This is a case where the other test type that shows 'in the soil' versus 'available' and having both to compare before/after would support that analysis.

Can anyone suggest a good slow release N source that would fade around early flower but have a little ooomph left for the flowering weeks? I know I need some quick release N for the veg cycle but want to ensure when I coast over into flower phase that I still have an adequate amount to ride things out.

So I’m confused. What is your soil mix it sounds like you are using a mix of organic and bottled organic nuets and if that’s true you are wasting time and money. Pouring bottled crap in organic soil will throw things off. You should look into no till thread or recycled organic living soil thread. I’m guessing that’s also why no one responded it’s hard to say what’s up when you don’t know what you have been using. I know everything in my soil how much and why

My soil is lightly amended every couple runs and has everything in it your plant wants whenever

I know the exact inputs on the soil (there's a thread for the start of the batch), and have conducted multiple soil tests over it across a couple runs now. The use of the bottled goodies this time was to finish off and get some P/Amino/Enzyme action going since I knew from the test I was low on N and P going into flower.

When using NFTG/HH they recommend including the calcium uptake facilitator and then the HH makes you need the OlympusUp to offset the ph swing. Are you familiar with NFTG line? I wouldn't liken it to 'a bottled nute' soley on that angle alone. From my understanding they use it in conjunction with organics and they sell their own soil mixes. Hell they're from your neck of the woods per your name.

I think my goal now is to just figure out my slow/fast N inputs to address that deficiency and align the K with the P a bit since I'm at 7x on the P but only 2x on K from what they call 'ideal' on their test. Using their targets as relative points since probably not tailored to our plants.

Additionally I think a little Mn/B would balance it out but the micro inputs I use (Big6 from BuildASoil) would contribute the others as well so I may just get some individual inputs for those two specifically.

ok... 1st. to get that nice fad at the end of flowering either cut down or cut out medusa ... as far as amended soil , I only do what tim (cultured tea ) does . bokashi , EWC , earthshine , one shot .... make it real easy is , do a 70/30 mix .. 70 % amended soil with 30% fresh soil , #4 soil...

Definitely looking at the gro/bokashi angle this time (specifically the BAS kashi blend), also considering running SIPs as watering and not automating it has been a shortcoming that held me back I believe. Even with automation it can fail so I'm eyeballing those SIPs pretty hard.

For casting I've got a worm farm started earlier in winter (garaged) and recently added 2k new works and another tray. Hopefully by the time of next run have a nice pile of castings for some tea to kick start things. I had also grabbed a bag of that #4 and threw in some recharge, big6 and some biochar I had on hand. Used that for moms but what's left over will go into the pots for next run.

I was eyeballing feathermeal for a part of my N sources, but I think I recall reading somewhere about reasons to avoid it (i.e. how the birds are raised for production and something about their feed or the processing of). Anyone recall the negatives / reasons to avoid it? Or reasons to avoid any other specific N sources I may consider? To bump up my K I've got kelp meal on hand needing used up so that'd be part of the angle I'm working.

I use Down To Earth bat guano for an N boost in my soil mix

One of the goals was to get an N source that doesn't need cook time like alfalfa & bloodmeal, I'm assuming a high N guano would be the same deal. The neem/karanja angle looks good from the fact it won't burn. I've of course let enough time pass now I could have had stuff already mixed/cooking...

I've got the bloodmeal & neem on hand (some, enough I'd suspect) and plenty of kelp meal; I'm thinking about getting it done tonight but now I'm stuck pondering on exactly how much of the bloodmeal so as to not burn things. I'll probably go light on it and give things at least 2 weeks to sit with an enzyme water-in to help things along.

While sourcing amendments with low/no P value, I was looking at langbeinite thinking it's 0-0-22 was going to be a nice compliment to some kelp meal but once I got the box and looked, I see it's a Mg source (no issue there) and S --- but my Sulphur already looks to be way too high in relation to other macro/micro. I'm now worried that I can't/shouldn't use the langbeinite. I didn't realize at the time this was the same as Sul-Po-Mag or I would have clued in on the sulphur aspect. Doh!

Is Sulphur a mobile/soluble element that a good flush could help with? I did a small flush on the pots before re-amending to try and get a good starting point (even if I did wash away a little of good I was hoping I washed away more of the bad knowing I was re-amneding/re-testing after).

NewGrower2011 said:

Definitely looking at the gro/bokashi angle this time (specifically the BAS kashi blend), also considering running SIPs as watering and not automating it has been a shortcoming that held me back I believe. Even with automation it can fail so I'm eyeballing those SIPs pretty hard.

For casting I've got a worm farm started earlier in winter (garaged) and recently added 2k new works and another tray. Hopefully by the time of next run have a nice pile of castings for some tea to kick start things. I had also grabbed a bag of that #4 and threw in some recharge, big6 and some biochar I had on hand. Used that for moms but what's left over will go into the pots for next run.

Click to expand...

If you want to get into SIPs, you need to start making your own 'kashi with red wheat bran. You will use the same EM1 in the 'Kashi and rez of the SIP. Plus, 'kashi in the worm bin has been the best thing that I have ever done for my worms! Shit will decompose much faster and the worm population will explode. Plus, I use 'kashi to blend in my soil to help it cook faster after amending(after soil test usually) and as a top-dressing in my EarthBoxes. Clackamas Coots soil and Grokashi on top. Wait about 4-5 days for the mycelium mat, then add barley and compost on top. I started adding the 'kashi and barley at the same time, but not in this pic.

I used a sickly plant, but it started to look better after one 4-5days. These pics are from the same day. You can see the new growth. This is what Mn def looks like BTW.


This is 4 weeks after transplant

I posted my latest soil test above. The most harmful thing that I saw in your soil test was the Na levels. What I did was take my soil pots out to the back yard and run water through them with a water hose, it will lower your S and Na levels. It will also lower your N and K too. Your K levels need to be 2x the suggested amount shown on the tests. Kelp seems to add more Na than anything else, that is why I started using greensand(K, Mn) and I'll add it to my Grokashi recipe. I'm about to make another batch of Grokashi if you want me to do another write up? It's pretty easy after you source the wheat bran, I found it at a farm feed store. I live in the country-side and there are more feed stores than grocery stores, so I don't know if you will have a problem finding it?

Yeah the Kelp is definitely a contributor there; Too bad I've got a ton to use up... but the plants around the lawn may get some love. I had some greensand in the original mix so it's probably just now going to start contributing to things given it's slow breakdown. I did run some flushing through before reamending so I hope that at least did a little benefit to those levels. Once this is nice & aged I'll repeat my soil test to know where I'm really at. Just wish they turned them around faster - the wait sucks!

NewGrower2011 said:

Using their targets as relative points since probably not tailored to our plants.

Additionally I think a little Mn/B would balance it out but the micro inputs I use (Big6 from BuildASoil) would contribute the others as well so I may just get some individual inputs for those two specifically.

Click to expand...

I listened to a podcast with the creator of the soil savvy test and he said that the only difference for cannabis is that K needs to be double. Also, Big 6 from BAS, how has that been working out for you?

The Big6 seems to be spot on for super soils with enough iron already; Once I let these existing 7gals sit a while I'll submit the test with the latest additions to see if it's now bumped them up a tad more. Got the savvy test in the mail already so now it's a matter of how patient will I be and if I do a full run between and just let things sit 'cooking' the entire time. Being a hobby/self-only grower time is on my side - no real rush..... unless I get low. ;-p