Calcium deficient or nute burn?

i have a melon gum and a white widow cross big bud , Scroged in living soil mix. Under led.

Soil + peat moss + perlite, doki mate lime, worm casting, seaweed etc etc

Have been using a full range of flairform nutrients to the label specs.

I ph my water give or take around 5.5. With a flair form colour test kit.

Plants are current 4.5 weeks into flower with around 3.5-4.5weeks to go.

Looking in to the tent the direct the pics re taken melon on the left widow on the right. Melon seems to be starting to yellow slightly I’m not to concerned about this as I figure it’s starts to wrap up.

The thing that is worrying me is the widow mostly but now the melon are showing since of some sort of deficiency, you see in the pics the tips and the serrations are starting to yellow, it looks worse with my led light on.

Could anyone tell me is this nutrient burn or is it possibly a calcium deficiency? I though 5.5-6 was right but it looks like calicium is only taken up above 6. Last night I gave a good water with straight tap water ph around 7. Not sure what to do next but wait and see, was thinking for their next water in a couple. Days I might just do the same. 7.0 from the tap.

Any help much appricated!!

I must saw, with the yellowing around the edges like that, I'm more convinced that it's a potassium deficiency....you also must be careful at this stage in flower, as pot plants tend to like a slight reduction in feed or, in my experience, they start showing a lot of symptoms sort of consistent with mag and cal def...but they really just need less nutes...doesn't look like that is happening though, whatever the problem is here, it is so minor that I wouldn't stress very much over it...you can try giving it something high in potassium and see if it stops progressing? The damaged leaves won't get better, but it will stop progressing to new leaves...they look healthy enough to withstand the issue!! Beautiful plants!!

This is an example of potassium deficiency...

Logan Burke said:

I must saw, with the yellowing around the edges like that, I'm more convinced that it's a potassium deficiency....you also must be careful at this stage in flower, as pot plants tend to like a slight reduction in feed or, in my experience, they start showing a lot of symptoms sort of consistent with mag and cal def...but they really just need less nutes...doesn't look like that is happening though, whatever the problem is here, it is so minor that I wouldn't stress very much over it...you can try giving it something high in potassium and see if it stops progressing? The damaged leaves won't get better, but it will stop progressing to new leaves...they look healthy enough to withstand the issue!! Beautiful plants!!

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Thank you

Keep eye on tips of leaves if the crisp up cud be nute burn , have also seen yellow like that from over watering

Logan Burke said:

This is an example of potassium deficiency...

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YOU GROWERS IN HERE ARE BADASS..I appreciate you

It's not potassium deficiency. It's over fert with pH that's too low. You don't need to pH water down to 5.5. You just add fert to it and water. Be careful not to give too much as the directions seldom if ever say how often to feed plants. Dark green leaves with dead leaf tips and the ends turning down look more like over fert with low pH.

polishpollack said:

It's not potassium deficiency. It's over fert with pH that's too low. You don't need to pH water down to 5.5. You just add fert to it and water. Be careful not to give too much as the directions seldom if ever say how often to feed plants. Dark green leaves with dead leaf tips and the ends turning down look more like over fert with low pH.

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Agreed. No need to pH treat in soil.

Not just soil, but other methods where the fertilizer modifies the pH to a correct level on its own. People keep pH'ing water before or after they add fert to it, but you really don't need to unless you're absolutely certain you do. I say for the most part, we can trust the products to do exactly what we need them to do without modifying them. We pay enough for them, they should work well for the money. I don't know how people became convinced that we always have to modify pH but if the instructions don't say "change pH after mixing with water," then you don't have to. Nowhere that I've ever read have the instructions to use a fert ever said to change the pH prior to giving to a plant. If the manufacturer doesn't say to do it, then don't do it. I know people here love the chart and feel like pH always has to be adjust to avoid the dreaded "lock out," but I'd like to think the products will work good without the customer making changes.

Shit. I didn't even notice him saying his PH was at 5.5-6! Ya Polish is right, that PH is way too low if you're in soil....I think the lowest I hear in soil is like 6.5? Always check your water's ph after you add your nutes until you're familiar with the effects of the nutrients on the PH...some do auto-buffer the PH, some don't, just depends.

Thanks guys! Polish I always thought 6 was target thats my mistake. But you would definitly want to use PH up or down in certain circumstances, Tap water is different PH depending on where you live and the treatment of the water before it gets to your house. Im lucky my tap water is close to 7. tap water can be anywhere from 6 to 8.5, nutrients do alter the water ph slightly and you should check ph after adding nutes, If like me you tap water is close I probably dont need to check or do anything from here on out.

Thanks for the advise guys might just keep her on straight tap water for a week or two and lay off the feeds for a bit.

Sounds like a plan Ralph let us know how it goes bud

Thanks for this thread,it's helped me sus the yellowing on my larger plants.I think it's overwatering cos they look healthy.But have burnt look on my pure power babies and not on others,has been HUMID very hot but not in sun for too long at a time .I'm in southern France and last year the torrential rain and humidy spoiled a lot of my crop so they are staying in pots this year.
here a pic of the PP

It might be better to control pH if necessary, with fert use rather than pH up or down. I wouldn't necessarily shoot for any particular pH but a range of 6 to 6.8 for potting soil grows, then don't worry about it. Don't test the run off or soil pH. Just make sure you plant into enough potting soil for the entire grow. Don't add much if the soil has fert in it already like FFOF. When you do well in soil, consider switching to DWC. You get much faster growth. In cool weather, put the bucket out under the sky and watch the plant take off. Wrap an insulation blanket around the bucket to reduce temp changes in the water if necessary. DWC will rock your world when done right.
Dynagro fert, follow instructions on container for use in hydro. Don't adjust pH. Make sure every day that ppm level is correct for size of plant. See youtube videos for help.

Yeah but I mean if you do start having issues and can't figure out the cause, it is good to know the soil PH is or isn't related to the problem. I agree, in a well prepared grow, in soil, PH can likely be unmonitored and be fine. When you have everything you need from the start, there is so much less likely to be an imbalance of some type in the root zone! Yes in hydro I always use ferts to adjust PH to minor degrees, I would imagine that in soil this is no different. I know that you can use stuff like Armor Si or silicate products to raise PH and give a nice boost of K