Cabinet questions

Hi I am interested in getting something like this, for subtlety growing medical MMJ in an apartment. I am not very tool oriented and also have limited budget. Most likely will take a couple months to start setting it up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FURINNO-Hid...530342026?pt=US_Bookcases&hash=item519d3c8c8a

Is a wooden cabinet an effecient enclosure for heat? I know wood absorbs heat...

What kind of tools would I need to set this up, I know a drill, but will need a large circle-saw bit to assist ventilation?

The box dimensions: 15L x 15.6D x 31H, what kind of yield to expect with one big plant? If I get more financially ahead might consider a perpetual system with two of these cabs.

Would a standard HPS light work during a veg cycle? Or should I get blue CFLs for veg and HPS for flower?

Will weather stripping help light leaks?

I live in a very hot climate. My last grow was in a cooler climate, but it still made my bedroom 95+ deg.

I am thinking the start cost up will be around $200 with everything needed to buy, can anyone help with a shopping list?

I'm more experienced with soil.

I will try to answer where I can, posted in blue...

askiba said:

Hi I am interested in getting something like this, for subtlety growing medical MMJ in an apartment. I am not very tool oriented and also have limited budget. Most likely will take a couple months to start setting it up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FURINNO-Hid...530342026?pt=US_Bookcases&hash=item519d3c8c8a

For that matter, a cardboard box, spray painted inside/outside will do the same and it should be free!

Is a wooden cabinet an effecient enclosure for heat? I know wood absorbs heat...
Wood is a great insulator, not an absorbent. Not to insult you, really, but that cabinet is a piece of junk. It is made from particleboard and will explode if it gets even moist! It is not meant to grow in and if they are saying so, it's a lie. (I've been a cabinetmaker 37+ years).

What kind of tools would I need to set this up, I know a drill, but will need a large circle-saw bit to assist ventilation?
Yes and also hard to answer without knowing everything you need to do. Cutting the cardboard box only requires a razor blade...

The box dimensions: 15L x 15.6D x 31H, what kind of yield to expect with one big plant? If I get more financially ahead might consider a perpetual system with two of these cabs.
Again, had to answer without more information, but anything you do in that small of an area, will surely be lean; keep in mind that the plant's home (container) is probably 8" to 12" leaving 18" for light and overall plant with space from light (depending on whatever light) leaves around 10" for the whole plant. If it were to be a cola ONLY, you'd be "OK" (+/- 1/2 to 1 oz, again, +/-). If you use a HID, forget about it. Way, way, way too small. Sorry, just MHO.

Would a standard HPS light work during a veg cycle? Or should I get blue CFLs for veg and HPS for flower? Yes, the later, but MH or CFL's for Veg and HPS (only) for flowering is best; save money and get a convertable ballast; runs MH & HPS off one ballast with just the flip of a switch....

Will weather stripping help light leaks?
Absolutely.

I live in a very hot climate. My last grow was in a cooler climate, but it still made my bedroom 95+ deg.
Heat build-up in a box is easy to deal with IF you have the proper equipment.

I am thinking the start cost up will be around $200 with everything needed to buy, can anyone help with a shopping list?
You gotta' figure that one out. Great sources to see what type of equipment is out there and what it costs, is either Hydro Farm or BWGS, both are wholesalers but have on-line catalog sites with the MSRP listed. Their websites are their name with dot com. You then can "shop" Amazon, eBay or ??? to find your best deals. Don't overlook Craig's List for used equipment and DO NOT buy bulbs there no matter what someone tells you about how little the bulb was used.

I'm more experienced with soil.

Click to expand...

Great! I would stick with what you know and get better at it before I went into anything new...

Well I had a cheap $30 wood/cardboard back cabinet with about the same area but different shape and had a big 125W CFL in there, and a bubble cloner, but nothing happened to it while I was using it, wouldn't that have been made from particleboard too?

Just can't bring myself to using cardboard, and it has to be subtle, so if you walked in the room, you would think that it's just a cabinet.

Also would be using light hangers for light efficiency and scrog net

askiba said:

Well I had a cheap $30 wood/cardboard back cabinet with about the same area but different shape and had a big 125W CFL in there, and a bubble cloner, but nothing happened to it while I was using it, wouldn't that have been made from particleboard too?

Just can't bring myself to using cardboard, and it has to be subtle, so if you walked in the room, you would think that it's just a cabinet.

Also would be using light hangers for light efficiency and scrog net

Click to expand...

Either I am not understanding the light hanger thing or else I'm off the deep end. A light hanger is simply an easier way to raise/lower the fixture. It does nothing for the efficiency. A light mover does help but would be useless in that cabinet. the cardboard box was merely an example. I understand the need to make it look in place. Perhaps you can find a cabinet shop that has an over run or a mistake that'll let a good, plywood based cabinet go just to be rid of it. It would look nice and probably be obtainable in a larger size. Call around after looking in the Yellow Pages under cabinet makers/shops. I can't tell what that other box you used was made from. particleboard looks (and really is) like sawdust pressed flat and dense. It even looks like good Lebanese Hash! You'll find everything in there like staples and cigarette butts. It used to be tossed out as waste until someone figured a wy to use it. Most commonly is made with Framaldehide (sp?) resin and the saw dust, compressed into several grades from light to high density. It simply cannot take moisture, thus my warning. If you are careful, you'll be "OK"; I didn't mean to put a scare into you. Best thing to do is to caulk all the joints. This will drastically reduce the amount of moisture penetration.