Budget no frills led bs

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
@Or_Gro RE solstrips or the UVB? RandomBlame put's out a lot of good info.
On the far reds, I'm putting together a shopping list of diodes.
3W XPE R3, UV 395-400NM
5x Infrared 3w 730nm-740 nm IR LED Night Vision Camera 20mm Star USA
10x Cree XPE Photo Red 660nm
and I plan to expand usage of reptile bulbs but all that's on hold due to expensive things breaking.
I plan to stick those on the chaopo ripoff amazon thing I got as I do like the clamp and arms arrangement. Curious as to where I could source just those pieces.
One of the big problems I have with the supplemental lighting options being offered is the tend to be all or nothing. A 4 ft strip wont be convenient for how I plan to hang the tray lights. The smaller pucks would require several and gets pricey.
I'm in no great rush to build this, just was shopping on ebay and turning the concept around in my head. Absolutely welcome any feedback on better options, bearing in mind the "budget" part of this grow.
I think that if you build a light that fills out the PAR spectrum fairly well, and add on 730-40, and uva-b, your will have a light that has not yet been commercially released.

I have no experience sourcing or building, but maybe @Randomblame would have some comments or could point you in the right direction. Also, i bet there are plenty of riu posts with responses to the same kind of questions.

How much 620-630ish nm do you have built into the white lights? I think you need an ample amount to boost photosynthesis together with 660 and 730-40. If you intend to veg you will want to check your blues, too. If you can get uva-b in affordable diodes, you can have an all diode light, otherwise, you’ll need some room for 1 or 2 reptile/uva-b T5s.

In addition to the diodes themselves, part of the light’s value is in being able to control the intensity and scheduling of the various light combinations, especially the supplementals. So, it’s worth considering, at least, how to wire in dimming and timer based switches for each parts of the spectrum you might want to individually control. For my current grow, the qbs (with dimmers) and emersons are plugged into a Titan light controller; the far-red and uv are on their own separate timers (uva-b requires a cycle timer).

If you build the light(s), create a thread with bill of materials and pics of parts and build process. I’m sure others will be interested in following now or reading at some future date.
It’s a big enuff project for a separate thread.
 
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INF Flux

Well-Known Member
I think that if you build a light that fills out the PAR spectrum fairly well, and add on 730-40, and uva-b, your will have a light that has not yet been commercially released.

I have no experience sourcing or building, but maybe @Randomblame would have some comments or could point you in the right direction. Also, i bet there are plenty of riu posts with responses to the same kind of questions.

How much 620-630ish nm do you have built into the white lights. I think you need an ample amount to boost photosynthesis together with 660 and 730-40? If you intend to veg you will want to check your blues, too. If you can get uva-b in affordable diodes, you can have an all diode light, otherwise, you’ll need some room for 1 or 2 reptile/uva-b T5s.

In addition to the diodes themselves, part of the light’s value is in being able to control the intensity and scheduling of the various light combinations, especially the supplementals. So, it’s worth considering, at least, how to wire in dimming and timer based switches for each parts of the spectrum you might want to individually control. For my current grow, the qbs and emersons are plugged into a Titan light controller; the far-red and uv are on their own separate timers (uva-b requires a cycle timer).

If you build the light(s), create a thread with bill of materials and pics of parts and build process. I’m sure others will be interested in following now or reading at some future date.
There's definitely a few others chasing the all led supplemental here on RIU, From what I've gathered the uvb diodes dont have the longevity to be worth using yet at the price the cost to source.
I should be able to get on this next month, maybe I'll start a design thread a week before I can order. That way I'm not leaving the community hanging on a result. Always nice when you help some one to see what happens and how it turns out.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
There's definitely a few others chasing the all led supplemental here on RIU, From what I've gathered the uvb diodes dont have the longevity to be worth using yet at the price the cost to source.
I should be able to get on this next month, maybe I'll start a design thread a week before I can order. That way I'm not leaving the community hanging on a result. Always nice when you help some one to see what happens and how it turns out.
Yep, good stuff! Sometimes you get some good suggestions, too. I’d start it even earlier, describe your plan, let others help you finalize it, then build, then grow.

Shit, start tonite, @me and i’ll follow the thread, others will too.
 

INF Flux

Well-Known Member
Yep, good stuff! Sometimes you get some good suggestions, too. I’d start it even earlier, describe your plan, let others help you finalize it, then build, then grow.

Shit, start tonite, @me and i’ll follow the thread, others will too.
Hehe, i've gotta make room in the fire for before I throw on some new pans. I have found in the past that I will multitask myself into ineffectiveness if i'm not to careful. Currently observing the strengthening visibility of a laser in solution.
I've been following the conversation in your thread, I may not chime in as much, but that's because I am learning and the conversation there has been easy to follow. Seems like every time I get lost it's explained in the next post.
Far red thread and just the led section in general is also a great place to lurk. Most of the time when I'm on here for a stretch I'm dipping in and out of the more knowledge heavy threads I can find and just reading.
I generally realize the things I envision, just can take a while.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Here I am, buddies! Sorry, my sister fell and has broken her foot. Yesterday she got a titanium plate and can not charge the foot again before one week at the earliest. Now much of her household work is hanging on me. Sorry, if I do not react immediately ..
Nice thread, bro! I like your organic approach, the worm bins and all and it's nice to see that certain techniques such as halving the upper leaves are applied all over the world. Thumbs up for that!
If you plan to use UVB/reptile bulbs you can save yourself the expensive UVA diodes because these bulbs already have 25-30% UVA. For a veg lamp maybe because it helps against PM and insects but with additional UVB bulbs in the bloom area there is no need for them.
 

Attachments

INF Flux

Well-Known Member
Here I am, buddies! Sorry, my sister fell and has broken her foot. Yesterday she got a titanium plate and can not charge the foot again before one week at the earliest. Now much of her household work is hanging on me. Sorry, if I do not react immediately ..
Nice thread, bro! I like your organic approach, the worm bins and all and it's nice to see that certain techniques such as halving the upper leaves are applied all over the world. Thumbs up for that!
If you plan to use UVB/reptile bulbs you can save yourself the expensive UVA diodes because these bulbs already have 25-30% UVA. For a veg lamp maybe because it helps against PM and insects but with additional UVB bulbs in the bloom area there is no need for them.
I've been wondering about the over lap, do you think there would be a benefit in veg? Would uva have any effect against pathogens, PM, etc?
So far reds with diodes and cfl uvs would be your recommendation?.

Sorry to hear about your sister, nothing worse than a mobility injury. I nearly completely lost it when I was going through surgeries and wearing immobilizers. Hopefully it's a clean break and nowhere near as severe. Forced inactivity can mess with you if you are used to a certain level of busy.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Here I am, buddies! Sorry, my sister fell and has broken her foot. Yesterday she got a titanium plate and can not charge the foot again before one week at the earliest. Now much of her household work is hanging on me. Sorry, if I do not react immediately ..
Nice thread, bro! I like your organic approach, the worm bins and all and it's nice to see that certain techniques such as halving the upper leaves are applied all over the world. Thumbs up for that!
If you plan to use UVB/reptile bulbs you can save yourself the expensive UVA diodes because these bulbs already have 25-30% UVA. For a veg lamp maybe because it helps against PM and insects but with additional UVB bulbs in the bloom area there is no need for them.
I hope her recoveryis swift and complete, take care of yourself, too.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Here I am, buddies! Sorry, my sister fell and has broken her foot. Yesterday she got a titanium plate and can not charge the foot again before one week at the earliest. Now much of her household work is hanging on me. Sorry, if I do not react immediately ..
Nice thread, bro! I like your organic approach, the worm bins and all and it's nice to see that certain techniques such as halving the upper leaves are applied all over the world. Thumbs up for that!
If you plan to use UVB/reptile bulbs you can save yourself the expensive UVA diodes because these bulbs already have 25-30% UVA. For a veg lamp maybe because it helps against PM and insects but with additional UVB bulbs in the bloom area there is no need for them.
Nice looking plants, @Randomblame. Tell me please, what’s the deal with cutting the leaves?

I’ve done that on shoots i was cloning, and it accelerated dehydration.
 

INF Flux

Well-Known Member
So for cloning it should actually decrease respiration. I'm still trying to up my cloning game myself so perhaps someone can correct me if I'm wrong about that.
Humidity dome perlite/soil experiment is ongoing on that respect, to date, no goners.

Timely discussion as the Dark Helmets at ready for their second lesson. I previously removed the lower limb sites as I want some space between the soil and the branches. It just makes it easier to get in there later and keeps everything off the companion plants who will hopefully indicate any pest issue before they get on the cannabis.
Topping! Fim'ing, GML tech, I'd really like to hear the accurate terminology for all this as I don't know it. I stumbled on this technique by accident after getting curious about why the fan leaf removal technique popularised recently by the GML show works.
The growth in the plant is caused by hormones that exist in the tips of the leaf at the apex of growth. These hormones signal the plant to go up, make leaves and be actively developing.
Topping removes those hormones along with the growth site that was generating them. The plant creates new hormone generating growth sites at the apex of what remains, typically creating two new "tops" from the branch sites. This will stunt growth fo a day or two until the correct hormone signals are being generated again.
By not removing the top but just reducing the hormone content by trimming the leaves, the same out of balance state is induced and the same reaction occurs, however, you still have the original growth site and they seem much less phased by the procedure.
Occasionally you'll see the leaves you cut continue to grow full tilt. This indicates to much growth hormone remains in the leaf and a follow up trim is required.
Again, no idea if there is a name for this, if I had to pick one, Hormone displacement training? Everything stated is paraphrased and cobbled together and I welcome review as I'd prefer to have this right. I get asked about it.
It has been my experience that plants structured off a central trunk are stronger than plants that are more v shaped.
IMG_20181009_110305585.jpg
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
So for cloning it should actually decrease respiration. I'm still trying to up my cloning game myself so perhaps someone can correct me if I'm wrong about that.
Humidity dome perlite/soil experiment is ongoing on that respect, to date, no goners.

Timely discussion as the Dark Helmets at ready for their second lesson. I previously removed the lower limb sites as I want some space between the soil and the branches. It just makes it easier to get in there later and keeps everything off the companion plants who will hopefully indicate any pest issue before they get on the cannabis.
Topping! Fim'ing, GML tech, I'd really like to hear the accurate terminology for all this as I don't know it. I stumbled on this technique by accident after getting curious about why the fan leaf removal technique popularised recently by the GML show works.
The growth in the plant is caused by hormones that exist in the tips of the leaf at the apex of growth. These hormones signal the plant to go up, make leaves and be actively developing.
Topping removes those hormones along with the growth site that was generating them. The plant creates new hormone generating growth sites at the apex of what remains, typically creating two new "tops" from the branch sites. This will stunt growth fo a day or two until the correct hormone signals are being generated again.
By not removing the top but just reducing the hormone content by trimming the leaves, the same out of balance state is induced and the same reaction occurs, however, you still have the original growth site and they seem much less phased by the procedure.
Occasionally you'll see the leaves you cut continue to grow full tilt. This indicates to much growth hormone remains in the leaf and a follow up trim is required.
Again, no idea if there is a name for this, if I had to pick one, Hormone displacement training? Everything stated is paraphrased and cobbled together and I welcome review as I'd prefer to have this right. I get asked about it.
It has been my experience that plants structured off a central trunk are stronger than plants that are more v shaped.
View attachment 4212945
It’s called apical dominance, actual mechanism is hormones (and gravity) in shoot tips (apical meristem) not leaves, can be manipulated by removing tips OR just pulling highest tip lower than others.

Knowing the right words helps communication, but figuring out what’s going on is what matters! Keep up the good work...
 
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INF Flux

Well-Known Member
It’s called apical dominance, actual mechanism is hormones (and gravity) in shoot tips not leaves, can be manipulated by removing tips OR just pulling highest tip lower than others.

Knowing the right words helps communication, but figuring out what’s going on is what matters! Keep up the good work...
Thank you, still need a name for the technique, using the right terminology to discuss it definitely helps.
Shoot tips is definitely more accurate, I was stumbling a bit lol.
The meristem is also what we are discussing, perhaps we could cobble these words together to form an acronym if no one is forthcoming with the correct name for the process. lst, topping, fimming, al useful because people know right away what you did. If I were to try to explain what we've just discussed to the non obsessed, eyes would glaze over from the use of plant vernacular.
LST would be similar to the end result, no? I played with that and still occasionally do, to try and slow things during stretch, but perhaps my big hands aren't gentle enough and I've had some oopsies. This way is pretty hard to incur any damage that matters.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Thank you, still need a name for the technique, using the right terminology to discuss it definitely helps.
Shoot tips is definitely more accurate, I was stumbling a bit lol.
The meristem is also what we are discussing, perhaps we could cobble these words together to form an acronym if no one is forthcoming with the correct name for the process. lst, topping, fimming, al useful because people know right away what you did. If I were to try to explain what we've just discussed to the non obsessed, eyes would glaze over from the use of plant vernacular.
LST would be similar to the end result, no? I played with that and still occasionally do, to try and slow things during stretch, but perhaps my big hands aren't gentle enough and I've had some oopsies. This way is pretty hard to incur any damage that matters.
Imo, removing a tip is tipping, removing a top is topping, bending a part of the plant is bending....i’ll let others call them what they will....lol
 
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