Brown spots.. help please

Hi, need some help have had a bit of this going on for a while now....



Post 15 and on is the most recent 'environment' updates. https://www.rollitup.org/cfl-fluorescent-lighting/715444-newbs-cfl-grow-2.html Thanks.

P.S. Could this still be potassium lockout from pH problem ~2 weeks ago?

Could be a tiny bit of nutrient burn or a small calcium deficiency. How much are you feeding them?

Hi friends
I think its must due to nutrient element because its control the protein which is very essential . you should also care for the sun light .

• "Finished filling my tub this morning, added nutes and pH'ed. Ppm before nutes was 39 (R/O water, I don't think I rinsed my tub/hoses etc. well enough as straight r/o should be lower) and I finished with 785 ppm. I added 150 ml for each the micro and veg nutrients, 0.8 ml super thrive and 20 ml each of amino acids, silica and bloom. The pH was adjusted to 5.6."​
  
  
  
  

that is from the 8th of this month, prior to that ppm was 2,500+. I have been having this for 2-3 weks now

Could be a number of things, where 's your ph, looks like you trimmed quite a few leaves from your plant too, why?

5.6, it could be K deficiency. Was that something you were already dealing with?

direwolf71 said:

Could be a number of things, where 's your ph, looks like you trimmed quite a few leaves from your plant too, why?

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I have trimmed leaves for a few reasons, dead/dying, fimming and if I did a bad super crop.

direwolf71 said:

5.6, it could be K deficiency. Was that something you were already dealing with?

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I wish I knew what I was dealing with. I had my pH way way low when this started, got it and try to keep it around 5.5 since 2 weeks ago. Also was having high temps that should now be under control. Generally speaking, (if possible) how long does it take a plant to stop showing signs once the environment is corrected?

LamontCranston said:

Could be a tiny bit of nutrient burn or a small calcium deficiency. How much are you feeding them?

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See post #4

few more pictures, white 'dust' is drywall dust, will be cleaning soon


P.S. Thanks for the help.

If you are using RO water you MUST add cal mag back into the water.This is not a option.RO water will have a tendency to drift down.When you set your PH set it a little high as you know it is going to drift down . let it drift down into the range it will still take up what it needs.Low ph although normally doesnt kill your plants will mess them up bad and reduce production as a end result.If you purchase some azomite and throw it into your res with your water your plant will NEVER suffer from a mineral deff.DM Zone in your res will help stabilize the PH. keeps your barrel and equipment allot cleaner also.If you go to dutch masters zone though you will not be able to use any bennie bacterias as it will kill good and bad bacteria alike.This is no problem with me as i want a clean sterile enviro with no chance of anything going wrong.good luck and hope this helps some.

I thought xnutrients 'Micro nutrients', was suposted to replace calmag for me... I didn't look at it personally but the dude at the store was helping me

Yeah I would say flush add some cal mag too or dolomite lime if your using soil and get some benebacteria in there if hydro there are a lot of products if soil worm castings/tea will make a great difference also wetting agent is a good idea allows plant access to alot of nutes and go with less ppm you can always add more nutes start at 300ppm and bring it up from there in full out flower I hardly go over 1300-1400 ppm

If your doing hydro I love sensizyme for the root zone or hygrozyme but def add some cal mag and lower ppms

As of friday I am using hyrgozime only 30 ml in 18 gallons, though.

And I am right around 900 ppm now, still to high? I was just hoping to stay under 1,000.

Just so we (I) can be sure about this, X Nutrients Micro & Grow (Links to analysis) CAN or CAN NOT be considered a replacement/equivalent of calmag?

Thanks again for all the help.

P.S. I am doing DWC hydro.

I have a gentleman running a dwc and his ppm doesn't get higher than 750-800ppm. Control of the res is critical with dwc, most issues arise from res issues. What is the temp of the res. Running a chiller to keep the water below 75-78 degrees? Your pictures don't show very much, can you take better pics? I also noticed in one of your pics what looked to be thrip evidence. Do you have a thrip problem? If you look at your first pic of the last set of pics you can white spots, these could be signs of thrip stripping the leaves, Have a close look on all the leaves, do you see weee little black spots that will not rub off? If yes these are eggs. Can you take better pics showing the entire plant in focus please. Until we rule out other issues the brown spot could be a number of things. Check it out and let me know. JAS

The white stuff is drywall dust, cleaned off now, was doing some work. Temps before were high (maxing at 87 apx.), now all that is getting into check. Yes to little black spots that won't rub off, but (to me) they seemed to be the early stages of the bigger brown spots.

Will take more pics and get temps

Brown spots seem to go after older leaves.

Do you have a loop or microscope? Little black spots....you need to check this out for sure. here is a pic of severe damage but you can see the type of damage and compare. http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=...=5vkxUvvVAYnjrAHA1IGYDQ&sqi=2&ved=0CDQQ9QEwAg The white spots look kinda like someone has stripped the top layer off, left long enough they will turn brown. Not trying to scare you but if it is thrip you need to get on it. This is the browning http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/noni/thrips.asp Lets verify its not thrip before trying other things. JAS

I took a bunch of pictures, one of my finger, heavily misted the foliage the get any dust off. ppm was 924 ish



Thanks again for all the help

Also I have l a 5x microscope (for reading I guess) only at this time, was hoping not to have to buy one for a while.

Currently making r/o water (my r/o filter has 4 filters, a Sediment filter, a pre carbon filter, RO membrane filter and a post carbon filter). Just in case it matters.

I could use some help on making the nutrient solution (in case it wasn't obvious). This is everything I have at my disposal:

XNutreints Grow/Bloom/Micro Nutrients/Amino Acids (All XNutrients brand)

Super Thrive, Dyna-Gro ProTect (silica) and Hygrozyme.

Am I missing anything?

What mix would you use for flower and veg ?

Thanks!

From the pics I don't see any evidence of thrip...That's a good thing! I did notice in a couple of pics dark purple stems, purple striping on the stems can happen naturally, but solid purple stems indicate an imbalance of some kind. I see that your res is 22 degrees and 5.6...all looks good there also. 5.6 can cause lockout if that is where it stays all the time. Do you let it run through 5.6-6.2 before changing the res.? Personally I would drop your ppm 100 or 150ppm and run 5.8ph for a good week or so. For veg use your 3 part and only use 1/4 strength of bloom and in bloom use all three again but around the 4th-5th week you can drop your grow to 1/4 strength. Protect I would use the last 2 weeks of veg and the first 2 weeks of flower. Hygrozyme is a very good product and I would use it every res change. Superthrive is a b vitamin...that's it. You can use it for cloning or as a stress reliever. Some people use it here, I don't. Do you have a ppm meter? With a ppm and ph pen you should be able to set up a little schedule, example...clones 100-150ppm @ 5.8, early veg...150-350ppm and a range from 5.7-5.9, late veg...350-600ppm with a range of 5.6-6.2, early flower 600-1000ppm fluctuating ph again, mid flower 500-900ppm fluctuating ph again, late flower 300-500ppm fluctuating ph again. Then your last week would be a flush. You do realize these numbers are just examples and you will have to dial your own system in cause every grow is totally different. I have 2 clients running dwc with the same strains and both have totally different schedules but the outcome is awesome. DWC is a hands on learning curve, people will tell you everything under the sun but you need to find what works for you. JAS

DadaInhales said:

Currently making r/o water (my r/o filter has 4 filters, a Sediment filter, a pre carbon filter, RO membrane filter and a post carbon filter). Just in case it matters.

I could use some help on making the nutrient solution (in case it wasn't obvious). This is everything I have at my disposal:

XNutreints Grow/Bloom/Micro Nutrients/Amino Acids (All XNutrients brand)

Super Thrive, Dyna-Gro ProTect (silica) and Hygrozyme.

Am I missing anything?

What mix would you use for flower and veg ?

Thanks!

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what ever the label reads start at about half strength use the additives as directed super thrive at a drop a gallon(love this stuff)your plants will do well with it at half normally some people recommend less.But start at half strength and give it a week at this strength then up it a little next week..keep a eye on your leaf tips if they start to curl up you know you are hot enough .By slowly increasing doses you get a plant used to the nutes its probably not a good idea to go beyond 10% or so of the manufactures recommended max strength.I think your missing CAL MAG.Good luck this is how i would do it in flower.The other guy above us JAS just gave some good sound advice you cant go wrong with either.