Bridgelux EB strips build help needed :(

M

Mattish

Well-Known Member
Ok so, i've been interested in building my own little light, i've watched video after video on what to do and what to get but some stuff i cant fathom and its blowing my mind ha, so any help would be appreciated.

I've been looking at getting some bridgelux EB strips for a basic build for a 30lengthx90widthx155highcm area (its a 2 section tent.) this will be my clone bay / mini veg area, looking to spend about 100£.

so im looking for a driver to power these and i understand that HLG Constant Current is good but for what i need its to expensive and i understand that, but what i don't understand is the Constant Voltage drivers, so hear me out and help would be appreciated here, these are what i've put together so far.

Driver:
709-ELG75-C700

4x
bridgelux BXEB-L0280Z-40E1000-C-A3
976-1494-ND

i can see the driver has a max of up to 107v, each LED strip uses 22.1, so i'd be using 88v roughly, each strip uses 7.7w, so i'd be using 30w total? so would i be correct in saying that i'd be using around 5k lumens.

any help would be appreciated, i've only been researching this for 2 days and i think i have cob's down to a T but led strips etc get me all confused!

PS: cant post links to items because i don't have 1 more like on any of my posts :(
 
Mattish said:
107v, each LED strip uses 22.1, so i'd be using 88v roughly, each strip uses 7.7w, so i'd be using 30w total?
Click to expand...

Math snafu here.....

22.1 V Strip running at 700ma = (22.1V x .7A= 15.47W) 15 W per strip.
15w per strip x 4 strips= 60W x 170 Lm/w (ish) = 10,200 Lm....

When it comes to figuring out the electrical configuration for DIY builds, COBs and Strips are really one in the same....

They just have different layouts of the diodes.....
 
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The other part is running the 280 strips at 700mA - their MAXIMUM current level...
I've seen nothing so far addressing heat management running them that hard.
 
I think you need closer to 100W for the area you are covering.
I would go 4 x LT-F564B for the space... But I'm a cheapskate.
 
Why not the second generation EB strips? They are much more efficient with 180lm/w, needs only 19,5v and costs about the same. You can also use a HLG-40H-20A which is a CV/CC driver(2Amps, 35$) or a HLG-60H-20A (3Amps, 36$) for parallel wiring. The driver current will be evenly divided between the 4 strips. 40w(~500mA per strip) or 60w( ~750mA per strip).


https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/bridgelux/BXEB-L0280Z-50E1000-C-B3/976-1737-ND/7907666


A 700mA CC driver would run the strips at max. current(almost same with the HLG-60 above) but you need the B-version of the ELG-75 to dimm it down. The HLG CV/CC drivers above have built-in potentiometers for voltage and current, so no need for an additional dimmer. If you plan to use them at max. current mount them at least to a metal surface for better cooling. Cheap alu u-channel works great and it's easy to make a frame. At 500mA you could do it without heatsinks/u-channels, a simple frame with two mounting points for each strip would be okay.
 
I see it is only for vegging. Heck, you can use a single 50W strip for simplicity. the beam it throws is wide enough to cover the whole area well.

At these low powers, efficiency means very little in terms of running cost. All that is important is that you put down enough photons in the PAR range.

A single 50W strip @ 1.05A will put down 8404 lumens at 45 degrees C. 52.4W at wall 48.2W at LED with 92% efficient driver
 
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ANC said:
At what temperature do they claim 180lm/W?
Click to expand...


Typical effiency is tested at 25°C on the center measuring point. I mentioned effiency because he was focused on gen1 strips and gen2 costs about the same.
But like you said, with 30, 40 or even with 60w effiency really does'nt matters so much.
 

Attachments

wow wasn't expecting all of these replies sorry i've just woken up, really appreciate all the advice here :) going to run through it :)
 
You are not going to get 25C without liquid cooling.
Samsung strips say 179l/W at 25C I just don't think it is a realistic temp to base calculations on.
 
ANC said:
You are not going to get 25C without liquid cooling.
Samsung strips say 179l/W at 25C I just don't think it is a realistic temp to base calculations on.
Click to expand...


Yeah, earlier the Brigdelux datasheets were much more complex with typical numbers for different drive currents and at least calculated for 25 and 85°C. The screenie below is from their selection tool and shows the numbers at different drive currents for EBgen2 diodes. EBgen2 diodes run at 43,25mA/87,5mA test/max. current.

EBgen.2 at different currents.png
 
ok so i ordered this so far:
4x Bridgelux Strips
https://www.digikey.de/product-deta...1000-C-B3/976-1737-ND/7907666?cur=EUR&lang=en

And to be ordered:
HLG-40H-20A
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...=sGAEpiMZZMvV8Y9YugmIgk5X04kZkB/adqCuidUSaNU=

i'm going to wire them in parallel, any suggestions on what guage wiring you would recommend? also i've been taking a look at the Wago's to wire everything up, don't currently have a soldering iron but can always buy, as a heat sink im going to find a thin piece of ala, could i possibly use double sided thermal tape to stick the strips on? or would that not be strong enough? also as im going to wire parallel would i need some sort of limiter for the current voltage so i don't blow any out incase of failure? thanks guys
 
Double sided thermal tape is okay. Search e3ay or Amazon. The cheap blue one is sticky like hell and works great for me. You can get a 25m roll, 20mm wide, thickness 0,2mm for ~8$.
For wiring use awg18-awg22 solid core wire. Got mine from e3ay/amazon but can be found often in old T8/T5 lamps(in white).
 
Randomblame said:
Double sided thermal tape is okay. Search e3ay or Amazon. The cheap blue one is sticky like hell and works great for me. You can get a 25m roll, 20mm wide, thickness 0,2mm for ~8$.
For wiring use awg18-awg22 solid core wire. Got mine from e3ay/amazon but can be found often in old T8/T5 lamps(in white).
Click to expand...

Also would you say it would be safe for me to run the lights without any resisters? i mean if one blows, it would be at 20a / then it would be just under the 700ma suggestion light level, i have no reason to dim them etc.
 
No need for additional resistors. There is a voltage regulator, set the limit to 20,5v or right to the point where the lights begins getting darker. If the voltage is set you can dimm with the second poti. Even when one strips blows the limit is still set to 20,5v and therefor the current is also limited to 1,4A corresponing to the datasheet.
 
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