Aurora & I. (w/Pics.)

RawBudzski

RawBudzski

Well-Known Member
Hello all !

:joint: I am beginning my personal Legit/Legal op and its crunch time to get my Cards in Order. I am open to all RIUs members input, experiences & opinions ! :blsmoke:don't forget the Pics. to it then.. .

Lighting
2x - 600w 6" air cooled hoods.

Equip

3Gal. Pots, Will it be enough?
(10x)Feminized Aurora Indica beans from vana.
Area
large space, no tent. 1 wall behind the grow area.
Daily access to fresh Outdoors air.

Soil,Nutes,Fert.
Dolomite Lime
FFOF Soil/Light Warrior, FF GrowBig/Bloom
Guano
Kangaroots(for soil)
Seaweed Extract
Sweat
B1 Thrive
Sylica Blast
**I am asking & open for suggestions**

Water
Will be watering with Distilled water. Will I need to PH correct my water?

Misc
Fan, Plenty of fresh air, *NO Co2 Setup*Can only afford the Co2Boost if needed?* timers, pumps, traps for bugs.



**** MY GOALS ****
My goals are not to cram as many plants under my lights, this is a Personal Grow for my Medicinal Use. I aim for Quality > Quantity, as I am still learning I have just came off of a successful harvest DWC with never checking ph. this time I am OPEN to trying LST, FIM, Topping, SuperCropping, Lollypopping you name it !!! I have 10x Fem. Aurora Indica Seeds. All have sprouted. They were placed into cubes in their dome the 1st few weeks then transplanted into 3gal. soil pots. I would like some advice on how I can achieve some DaNk!!!

P.S. I am not trying to do a perpetual harvest with these two lights, I will most likely purchase a small tent and 150w mh at the ending weeks of this run and use it as a veg/mother tent. then have my 2-600w flower.


*** Questions ***:confused:
1. Since I am aiming for Quality of Quantity, should I put my lights as close as i can together and keep a MH/HPS in each trying to keep the BULK of my plants in the Center of the TWO spectrum. *I could maybe switch my plants around every other day? to each side of spectrum?*

2. How often will water RUN OFF of my soil when I water it, Will they ALWAYS need to be in the trey to avoid spilling?

4. Do I check my PH of solution before watering, the runoff? both?

3. How would you position Two 600w Hoods.



Thanks in Advance ! I will update pics, Keep you POSTED. BudPorn soon to come when they are of appropriate age! :hump: :weed: ​
 
I would plant in bigger pots personally.

Test everything all of the time, the second you get complacent is when the shit happens. Test the solution you are watering with, after a while you'll know the drill and the pH with it. More importantly is checking the ppm of the run off along with the pH. That is crucial. I would check every two feedings, trying to keep the numbers below 900 ppm. Watering with distilled water becomes a pain in the ass, I got my tap water tested and it is fine to water with, I would advise getting a quick test, you might be surprised and save a shit load of money. Grab some blackstrap molasses as well, I have had great results with that...
 
Going with Distilled. My last and 1st grow was a 18gal. DWC hydro 4x plants. I never had a PH meter. and got some Bomb. so im not to worried. thanks for the info ima start keeping track of all the nutes. You should RE-pot plants if going BIG. which i am not. Putting a plant straight into a 5gal/10gall is not good for the root system, it works. but isnt the best option. if you Can, Repot them if going that big. i may switch these to 5gal. since training, all others from clone will do fine in 3gal.
 
IMAG0008(2).jpgim going for a perpetual. i have been thinking. After my INITIAL flowering of 6 plants. i will add 2 Rooted clones to Flowering every 2 weeks. if room 3 or 4. so eventually im harvesting every 2 weeks.
 
Nice setup,
I never PH my water since I switched to reverse osmosis water.

My soil contains some elements that stabilize PH, This is very important for the areas of the soil that plant isn't using nutrients from. When organics nutrients are broken down by microbial colonies it creates a acidity naturally. Slow release limes like oyster shell lime balance these ares out and also supply calcium.

On top of the soil amendments available that stabilize the PH, microbes also stabilize the PH of the soil directly surrounding the roots. They actually break down the specific nutrients that the plant is using at a given time. They will even adjust the PH range to the level that the nutrient is most available. The microbes benift from the plant absorbing nutrients and the plant beifits from the microbes breaking nutrients down. In short there should be some type of lime in the medium to keep the areas of the soil that the plant is NOT using nutrients from in the proper PH range and one should routinely populate the medium with as many types of microbial life as possible, its also important to feed the microbes.

With the above information in mind, trying to build a very full even root system becomes the real factor that will give you the best results. I use root pots that air prune the roots, when the root tips hit air, the tips die and the root creates a shoot that will grow in a different direction.Train of thought---> Colonize the soil, feed the colony, build the roots system to supply the colony with a very nice place to live. The colony will multiply if the are well fed. One could use blackstrap molasses for this, I prefer to use alternatives.
Cheapest way is to make worm tea :)

Realizing that organic nutrients aren't available to the plant until they are broken down was a break though for me years ago when I began growing. I started getting a jump on this process by mixing all the nutrients together, adding beneficial microbial life and the food they require to multiply and break the nutrients down. This process makes a large portion of an organic nutrient mix readily available for the plant to use. You will see this occurring visually on top of the mix, there will be a frothy foam substance form on top of the nutrients when the process is rolling. This type of process also makes the absolute best foliar food as well.

EDIT: Feed from the top and water from the bottom, we don't want to wash away all the little guys hard work or the lime that is so critical.
.
Sorry for the rant on your page, I hope this information proves useful in future endeavors
 
Pot size: Good rule of thumb is 1 gallon per 1 ft of growth be it vertical or horizontal. I prefer a large container because you can really create quite a stable ecosystem. I like putting hydroton pebbles in the bottom for root pruning, drainage and aeration. I also put them on top to even out the moisture levels in the medium. Dry medium doesn't really let microbes colonize. The upper part of the soil is where the "Feeding" part of the root system grows. Placing hydroton on top will also bring the "feeder Roots" closer to the top soil where are the nutrients are readily available.
 
Hood position: I would place the hoods 1 1/2 ft apart.
600w optimal foot print is 3'x3' spacing them 1 1/2 ft apart would be optimal use for the lights. If your ballast are switchable I would run Mh the first 2-3 weeks of flower to keep inter-nodal stretching to a minimum, then put HPS bulbs with enhanced blue spectrum in after that. Once I went enhanced I never looked back.

If they arent switchable, conversion bulbs are available. They can be a bit high In cost, but, work wonders. I wanna try a dual arch bulb at some pint. Its a MH and HP in the same bulb.
 
Thank you for the info. :D and yea I have been thinking just to be safe I am going to transplant into 5gal. and veg a little longer. my girls have gone through hell with this LSTing
r3c@il said:
Nice setup,
I never PH my water since I switched to reverse osmosis water.

My soil contains some elements that stabilize PH, This is very important for the areas of the soil that plant isn't using nutrients from. When organics nutrients are broken down by microbial colonies it creates a acidity naturally. Slow release limes like oyster shell lime balance these ares out and also supply calcium.

On top of the soil amendments available that stabilize the PH, microbes also stabilize the PH of the soil directly surrounding the roots. They actually break down the specific nutrients that the plant is using at a given time. They will even adjust the PH range to the level that the nutrient is most available. The microbes benift from the plant absorbing nutrients and the plant beifits from the microbes breaking nutrients down. In short there should be some type of lime in the medium to keep the areas of the soil that the plant is NOT using nutrients from in the proper PH range and one should routinely populate the medium with as many types of microbial life as possible, its also important to feed the microbes.

With the above information in mind, trying to build a very full even root system becomes the real factor that will give you the best results. I use root pots that air prune the roots, when the root tips hit air, the tips die and the root creates a shoot that will grow in a different direction.Train of thought---> Colonize the soil, feed the colony, build the roots system to supply the colony with a very nice place to live. The colony will multiply if the are well fed. One could use blackstrap molasses for this, I prefer to use alternatives.
Cheapest way is to make worm tea :)

Realizing that organic nutrients aren't available to the plant until they are broken down was a break though for me years ago when I began growing. I started getting a jump on this process by mixing all the nutrients together, adding beneficial microbial life and the food they require to multiply and break the nutrients down. This process makes a large portion of an organic nutrient mix readily available for the plant to use. You will see this occurring visually on top of the mix, there will be a frothy foam substance form on top of the nutrients when the process is rolling. This type of process also makes the absolute best foliar food as well.

EDIT: Feed from the top and water from the bottom, we don't want to wash away all the little guys hard work or the lime that is so critical.
.
Sorry for the rant on your page, I hope this information proves useful in future endeavors
Click to expand...
 
Yes I have the lumatek digi ballasts. Ok new aspect. LIGHT MOVER. I hear that Running BOTH MH/HPS durring flowering could increase potency :D what if.. I were to get a Light rail, Put both lights on the single rail and have both MH/HPS moving over the SAME Plants.. Might even give me a little more room for small flowering clones too?
r3c@il said:
Hood position: I would place the hoods 1 1/2 ft apart.
600w optimal foot print is 3'x3' spacing them 1 1/2 ft apart would be optimal use for the lights. If your ballast are switchable I would run Mh the first 2-3 weeks of flower to keep inter-nodal stretching to a minimum, then put HPS bulbs with enhanced blue spectrum in after that. Once I went enhanced I never looked back.

If they arent switchable, conversion bulbs are available. They can be a bit high In cost, but, work wonders. I wanna try a dual arch bulb at some pint. Its a MH and HP in the same bulb.
Click to expand...
 
Well im having some sort of bug issue. not major. Small red things, Spidermites im sure,. So I just sprayed some KNOCK OUT mite killer i got from the shop around the plants and some got on them im sure. im going to keep them in veg for the next two weeks, Keep the Spray routine, this next week im elevating from ground. spraying entire area. then Spraying plants with water to wash off any residue. then a wk later i shall 12/12
 
Updates soon to come!!! pics within the next few hr. I am currently thinking of moving indoors into a spare bedroom with this grow. To control temps
 
tryna come up with some ideas on how ill do it. I have never set up a ventilation system for a room, nor do I know how.
 
Looking good man! If you've got the room light movers kick ass. Also you might want to check out dual-arc bulbs that have both HPS and metal halides inside...word of caution though, my galaxy digital ballast does not like to run dual-arc so I'll be buying another magnetic ballast to replace it. I like the dual-arc bulbs!
 
Cool, ill look into these bulbs. I use Lumatek ballasts. If I go into this room I may not need the mover. I dunno its driving me CRAZY!!! reading up on grow rooms and whats needed. I am over thinking it
 
I am going to purchase a space heater for my area. I am Building another Room.. Inside my room. Will be about 8x8. Ill have a smaller tent for veg room outside of the new room.
 
thanks just turned on my 2nd light next to it since they were getting so big... its 600w hps but it wont hurt for a week.
 
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